OCR Text |
Show J7 Vs If How What You Wear Determines the Size of Your . Bank Account, the Food You Eat, the Hours L You Keep, the Sort of Job You Hold, the Number of P Times You Attend Church and Even Whether : You Prefer Movies to Grand Opera ! h t-.j:.- - - -..ia.....-.-..-.-v. -i... ... . , -inim jBid --- " v - ,v t . ; 4 vv , ! ' v x : , h V f'H , N 4 . , X V V ; t I -.NV, ' t ; . X r f 1 , - w. . v x s i v v v s x : V, , Was All the More a Queen Because She Decked Herself in All the Most Highly Exaggerated Fashions of Her Day This Woman Worker Is More Su" cessful at Her Trade Because of the Self Confidence Inspired by the Fact That Her Clothing Cloth-ing Is as Well Adapted to Her Work as the Mans emotion, the actuation, is fear more oftea than anv other; o.nd at heart always self' protection. "Fear mostlv underlies the psvchologr of clothing, as It does the psvcholosrv of other lmDortant features of our commoD social lite. "Protection and relief, theu. of such fears m addition 10 these that I have already al-ready mentioned of a more phvsiological nature. I take to he la raison d etre. th real aim and purpose of the wearing of clothes." In reference to his point regarding ob-tmsiveness, ob-tmsiveness, Dr. Dearborn savs this: "'Of course, there are exceptional people In whoru obtrusivcr.ess Is a necessity mads a virtue. The clercvman, the detective, the hospital doctor, the sport, the politician, poli-tician, the butler, the armv general, the nursery maid, the policeman and a great many others, all wear clothes winch should he obtrusive: their clothes business is to be so. The widow wears her sombre-colored sombre-colored clothm?. the sport his flashy check, the cruel Bodies their pointed helmets. hel-mets. The cassock of the priest, the ultra tightness of the clothes of the dude, the more startling surprises of the female hshers of men (whether as husbands or lovers or both) all such are a variety of 'sandwich-men with their business glaring front and back. Self-confidence Is another form or as-jsect as-jsect of the essential satisfaction arising ueen Elizabeth, Science Believes rJ HE familiar saying that "clothes make the man" no doubt runs back into the past as far as the first Dost human ancestor who attached a ip of skin or a garland of leaves to his her own pelt. The ancient saw has had : opponents ever since and, equally with- I doubt, back in those dim beginnings of je there were philosophers who scorned ks adjunct to man's natural covering, Wing with suspicion and distrust the pidly increasing development of what in "er centuries was to be known as "fash-11." "fash-11." Against these philosophers is the "ie represented hy the lady who told the er-day sage, Herbert Spencer, so he -7s, that "the consciousness of being per-tly per-tly well dressed z?.ve her a peace such religion cannot give. Science has now taken a hand in the ltroversy and has given its vote to the liraative "clothes do make the man." Professor George Van Ness Dearborn, w a member of the Medical Corps of th9 Red States" Army and one of the most tinguished of American psychologists, uing affiliations with Harvard TJniver-1, TJniver-1, the Sargent School of Physical Cul-e Cul-e and other notable institutions, has en the results of his exhaustive study the subject, under the title of "The "'chology of Clothing," in a recent nber of "Psychological Monographs," ilished by the Psychological Review mpany. i Appearances," says Professor Dsar-n Dsar-n in one of his summings up, "may rise 1 above the reality. One's clothes may yar better than his soul, his mentality, It body or his bank account. But, none a less, till every lass and madam and 5n Jack' is a philosopher, and a stoic jloBopher at that, the wise man in the 'jrase social community will not ignore .'.prances unless he be well fixed above community, it is certain that the 4l09opher, even. the amateur philosopher 4 rlso above . his clothing. It is stlli Ve certain that philosophers are scarce, to say rather obsolescent and very 0j r:fiwv'v .J -rv i lift a-4 t Wt1" i y I f KUrS ' ' AX MS 1 ,2Ji ; A. 0 'H'VWl ,vfl54 I f',s' vV9? This Woman Wovl ' , " - jtir V , , vi e ' 1 cessful at Her Tr ?oiM4;Cr ' "Ol.V by the Fact Th if! f ! ? ! .i1 j, 1 47? f. "Fear mosth inder ' -'' jMll i'J t I other .moortaat featu riU i.r;- i'.-AV , 'IxV A, II . A rfrii'M. . social life FfVn ' U-- 'rf f tKJu- i "Protection and re a V ' J t ' J' ." VT V 7 4 V, J v- - A,! M tears m addition to tl bsCA-nf k ,C-fO X(7'Vf readv mentioned of a 'AX,Vk lVAVf ''. rf y 4 JU;M & V?W-c, ,Va.?"1 nature I take to be 1 i'-Al'SMi SiU f V4fr kf4Z:. t' -A real aim and purpose f,KUl ,W4 4fO -!v ? . 1- A "fiff '''tH't i! clothes" M'hr'ri V J ';f. x J''VHI1., In reference to his BLi a .4- "H-At L$ ' C '4 .y-C i l'r ' V 4-?!, 'Of course, there ar F'VVKlCAfe5-A . Z;t f in whom obtn .ore, iH.M( S' f,' A' t s?ry kVT V . ' 'f a virtue Thecleig. h iiMX vW Vt 1 , x ' .-V( VV',-- ,y , t e hospital doctor ,(!,5lSH', t?-Vi' ? . V . v - J - " - Wit't ' iY ' tician, the butler the V Vv4i' -VfA" ( V' '0, ; ' ''V'J nursery maid the pol AAVK Vv-rf N Vr," - - - 41 v f v A Ao man other all oar. v 4 V a" T', f . ' ! f 0 check, the cruel Poch. - Ar';ryHi 4 a'v -j si . r ;,A4 j ne cassock o ' 'V'V ' ' - ' A 4 A ; tightness of the doth tMFf'' " ',Vf- ' 7 '-i A lowers or both)-all st 'fA f w i T o4! ,v X , 2 'sandwich men with tl ! " f 4 " ' ' - - - . s, i ( i front and back J'.VfKy'W ,V'VVA vS , - J.' -A r t-s N self at! fact C'V I " i 4 C ' 1 -"StC4 ' "T s! - s 1 'K this in no sn 1 JsCVw', v i ' , i 1 - '1 K buccobS 5'. ' t-iY..fet.v IVi-vA ' - . A V fVwv J HoW mucl1 one eats Lotze makes' another interesting ' t I KcT , ' ' V v and drinks the very basis point concerning the' tightness of 5 - J f ' i : : : h ' , " of much bodily comfort is clothing, especially to stays and ,K ", , r , , '1 V : ;'?,. Vjv .Vv'-i determined to some extent corsets. 1 UK, ' Vo--':;";' ft hy the c,othlng- "The greater or less tension and t , V ? P ' ! : ,,;:A- A5 "14. How much checking- firmness possessed by the material ' , 4 ( 'li Kt " , balance one may keep at the In itself or due to its cut is trans- 1 , ' ' r ' ' ' bank, determinant of be- forred to us, as if it resulted -from A , ' ' !rf' VT ) v " - havior to a noteworthy de- our bearing." " ' - , 1 beoaiso'' as" ' gree. The English "Tommy's" tight coat , ' . J, y Butlden pxtfit "15. One's personal beauty." 0f before the war, our own "Wst ! ' the mind ven ' Some men carry canes: others do not po,nt radpt,s sUff unif would " . Y " ' , v ' t. ' through coni V , H These latter are somewhat inclined to look accordiiiEr to T nt7p rleterminin V , k S the subconsc: down upon the cane-carriers. Perhaps be' according to Lotze, determining , v ,i , influenco 1 ,lv f1 they are right, for it would seem that those factors in the stiffness, rigidity r.nd s ', . hnve ,ej.a , v 'I who "sport" a stick do it because they sub- firmness of their wearers; that is, , ' change and' 5 4 consciously realize that their own individ- the suggestion they carry would " , ( , . v Ss y environment -1 ualities are somewhat slim, their person- tend to create similar conditions in , ' . have the v - T alities limited. The cane gives them an the conduct of the wearer. A wo- , i ' , , ti1Ht conle3 f extension of this personality makes them man in tight corsets cannot so easily . , wholly new "a feel "bisser" than they are. The same be swayed by emotion as a woman , -1 striking cc r holds true of "high hats," French heels jn i00se garments. "Straight laced" ' , , j that it is the and the exaggerated fashions which have as a phrase descriptive of primness . ' , t taincd of th always been phenomena of a frivolous age. comes direct from the uncon- " mr tjle i,as( . -.r. j The nineteenth century philosopher, querable corset. V ' - cortex Peril Herman Lotze, in his "Microcosmus," re- Robert Herrick said: "A sweet disorder ' ' t'ne jjL- . ferred to by Dr. Dearborn, held that jn the dres3 kindles in clothes a wanton- - i observers th' ':rT clothes often tend to expand personality. ness." - in them too f Clothes, or at least parts of one's cos- Loose clothes are more apt to produce -&-yy-v . and more em Jwi-' tume, may be considered as a kind of im- loose morals than tight ones. This, at ";t "T.'ievcfore plement to the outer limits of which the least, if we remember rightly, was Lotze's ?,' :': . . an1 secthe'; j'jlT personality lends always to expand. In idea, who also explains that waving plumes ' ' chaperons of ii'V'V. using a chisel, for example, a man's per- on hats, hanging tassels, veils, scarfs, rib- - "V? to buy tlici i 5' sonality is on the bevel, or on the edge bons and various other adjuncts give a ' ? made or to K V. of the tool. In like manner, in wearing a sense of joyous movement and vivacity to , '' something tr cane one is apt to have his attention at the wearer and aiso to the observer and , , worth consldc the further end of the cane, or at the close therefore by suggestion makes them in. S jn pr.ncrl'i n ' end, or at both ends. High heels act in Fear is the greatest obstacle, both tn : i ter jU(j',pS 1 the High Hat, somewhat the same way. "Swagger- humanity's progress and to the progress than ' and Othef sticks," so common now, tend to ex- of the individual. Dr. Dearborn calls at- J eelvrs tl r' V .i pand the personality; so do high hats. tention to this as fo'lows: ,'j ; ress that f , , . . ..,, i, ..-v- : t . . , . . . the industrial Mme. Dubai-ry and Her Devoted Admirer, Louis XV. Dubarry Owed Much of Her Success as One of the World's Most Famous "Fishers of Men" to the Luxurious Garments with Which She Enhanced Her Physical and Mental Charms. from clothing - fitness. Protected, Pro-tected, fearless initiative; unirrltated, mind - free, normal manhood and womanhood, confident con-fident of its eternal and universal univer-sal mastery, arise from rational self-satisfaction. Clothes help this in no small degree or hinder it 'Success' has as one of its rnnditmns n Rplf- confidence, a fearlessness, and success in general usually is not probable without with-out that self-confidence, self-confidence, this eye-to-eye fear-' fear-' lessness of general gen-eral criticism. "First impressions impres-sions really are Lotze makes another interesting point concerning the' tightness of clothing, especially to stays and corsets. "The greater or less tension and t firmness possessed by the material in itself or due to its cut is trans-forred trans-forred to us, as if it resulted -from our bearing. j. The English "Tommy's" tight coat . of before the war, our own "Wst Point Cadet's stiff uniform, would be, according to Lotze, determining factors in the stiffness, rigidity r.nd firmness of their wearers; that is, the suggestion they carry would tend to create similar conditions in the conduct of the wearer. A woman wo-man in tight corsets cannot so easily be swayed by emotion as a woman in loose garments. "Straight laced" as a phrase descriptive of primness comes direct from the uncon- nnprahlp enrcpf- -in; extinct, so tar as prac- il affairs are concerned. ijWhcu a person is satis- ;. contented, in good hu- 'f' whetl he Is 'happy,1 in $rt he expends more T'gy. lias more initiative jf is altogether more efti- tu than when he is tin-jpy, tin-jpy, worrying about some-H some-H or when 'ho has a P'-'' Inch' or any of the condl- is opposite to happiness. Vfef , v edoin from discomfort un- 'i's: . ?lls all this, and," says nearborn, "it importantly girlies the psychology of ' '''"g in particular." 7'ils comfort has both a ; biological and a psycho-uspect. psycho-uspect. It may refer and ,re V It X , i down V ,M H k v A they f 1 wh0' -4 f , i con3C I ; l - 1 ualiti , I I alitie i I " f s exten I F ' feel I p J holds li fr"-t , J and t ting " alwa: 'SIO- k.:':.'v?!::V, in liich Hern jrbs ? . ferre ( s" cloth Dr. V ? CU tion tume i in -IW p!em :cre- TV ! Pprs 3 to tUv-S. USU1J sure kM, 50na and ft t!l i cane lints V thej of great practical importance, because as beginning stimuli, sudden excitation, they impress the mind very st rongly. and then, through conditions and action of the subconscious, gain permanent influenco. Physiologically, we have here a contrast-effect, a change, and a sudden ono, In the environment (Vedworn). We have the vigorous impression that comes from something wholly new and perhaps striking striking certainly in tlio sena that it is the first impression obtained ob-tained of that individual, making mak-ing the base-neurograin in the cortex. Perhaps this is stronger, the first impression, in women observers than in men. Perhaps in them, too, it is more Intuitive and more emotional. "Therefore it is that wives and sweethearts are the propor chaperons of men when they go to buy their clothes, whether made or to bo made. This is something that perhaps is well forth consideration; that women in general are very mudi better bet-ter judges of well-dressed rjiea than men are: than they themselves, them-selves, the buyers, are. And if the industrial sido could in some " C4r? Ho'w' mucn 0I1e eats v!v and drinks the very basis s's of much bodily comfort is determined to some extent v 3 by the clothing. 7 'Hi "14. How much checking- balance one may keep at the bank, determinant of behavior be-havior to a noteworthy degree. de-gree. "15. One's personal beauty." Some men carry canes; others do not. These latter are somewhat inclined to look down upon the cane-carriers. Perhaps they are right, for it would seem that those who "sport" a stick do it because they subconsciously sub-consciously realize that their own individualities individ-ualities are somewhat slim, their personalities person-alities limited. The cane gives them an extension of this personality makes them feel "bigger" than they are. The same holds true of "high hats," French heels and the exaggerated fashions which have always been phenomena of a frivolous age. The nineteenth century' philosopher, Herman Lotze, in his "Microcosmus," referred re-ferred to by Dr. Dearborn, held that clothes often tend to expand personality. Clothes, or at least parts of one's costume, cos-tume, may be considered as a kind of implement im-plement to the outer limits of which the personality lends always to expand. In using a chisel, for example, a man's personality per-sonality is on the bevel, or on the edge of the tool. In like manner, in wearing a cane one is apt to have his attention at the further end of the cane, or at the close end, or at both ends. High heels act in i somewhat the same way. "Swagger-sticks," "Swagger-sticks," so common now, tend to expand ex-pand the personality; so do high hats, very broad hats, coiffures like those of Elizabeth's day. Even bustles tend to expand ex-pand the individuality of the wearer, and in a direction at which one "wonders." ' comments Dr. Dearborn discussing Lotze's views. In a smaller way thick ulsters, furs, topcoats, top-coats, clumsy overcoats and superfluous wraps are a badgo r.l enlarged personality of their wearer. "It is plain from the frequency wit'a which weii-to-do, light-headed people assume as-sume these implements, which connect their personalities with the environment, that there is always a great amount of pleasantness and of'n snobbish satisfaction satisfac-tion connected with their use," says Professor Pro-fessor Dearborn. Copyright, 1012, by Star Company. uie body or to the mind. Badly-fitting y1 disturb the comfort of the physio-irnl physio-irnl processes, and clothing of which ,p'e are ashamed c.r do not like disturbs xnitfort of the mind. '"m the purely physiologic aspect Dr. f'Wrti discusses clothing in Its relation j.ietlier it interferes with or aids in S natural functions of the skin excre- mutilation and so on. Next, as to V ethpr ;t interferes by pressure i" "e peripheral blood pressure and n the process of digestion. " D'lern gives a number of points Vln bfhavior 'argely determined by 5 -n, Tlle IdnJ p clothes a man or ;-nan wears determines, he savs: r I. . . nn,ch one 'goes out,' both into 1 'icet, and Into society In general; how many vs one makes. V time of dr'? or ni?ht at which j goes out when living in town, for j 4 ,S rMsons. Wnl!T- ?ne ?0i?p' that is- the sort of ,J "oumrli.008 g1ES' blh in t0Wn anJ ymeTanj- COmpany 008 inv!tcs to pav.8me extel:l- Ule nature of that 'i'aradcsnietCch attGnds church. Eas" LatTd Tms aUenJs th,. theatre, , ed' another it be a dark movie Robert Herrick said: "A sweet disorder in the dres3 kindles in clothes a wantonness." wanton-ness." ' Loose clothes are more apt to produce loose morals than tight ones. This, at least, if we rememher rightly, was Lotze's idea, who also explains that waving plumes on hats, hanging tassels, veils, scarfs, ribbons rib-bons and various other adjuncts give a sense of joyous movement and vivacity to the wearer and also to the observer and therefore by suggestion makes them in. Fear is the greatest obstacle, both to humanity's progress and to the progress of the individual. Dr. Dearborn calls attention at-tention to this as fo'lows: "We may note without danger VJ::g tutcess fully contradicted that clothing at i ue time or another, in some pro,".:?, if not m others, protects us against, fear ''ear (1) of ridicule. (2) of the estimation of poverty, (3) of the estimation of inefficiency ineffi-ciency or stupidity, (4) of numerous d-T-mal discomforts. (51 of bnd::y interri.il discomforts. dis-comforts. (6) of the estimation of bodily immodesty, (7) of anxiety, (Si of th cs--mation of a lack of self-respect, 3) of .-he estimation of a lack of good taste. (10) of obtrusiveness. (11) of an uner-estimntion (reail at 'first impressions,' (12) of an estimation of homeliness or lack of the desired beauty. "Many of thes3 fears, it is obviously true, are subconscious It is not easy. Great Britain 'Rights Reserved- Beau Brummel with the High Hat, Eeribboned Stick and Other Frivolities of Dress that Tended to Expand His Personality among often unfashlonably or ill-dressed people, or the grand opera, with its brilliant bril-liant promenade and conspicuous visiting. "9S Clothes frequently help people to get jobs and to hold them, but "10. Clothes help others to miss positions posi-tions and to lose them. "11. The amount of exercise one takes and its variety are determined to a considerable con-siderable extent by one's habits of dress, and especially perhaps by one's laziness in regard to the frequent changing of one's clothes. "12. How much one sits and where and how one sits- One cf the Costumes Which Psychology Psy-chology Eelieves Give a Sense of Joyous Movement and Vivacity to the Wearer and Also to the Observer however, to believe that clothes coula mtan so imrr.en'-eV rnueh to so many neo-ple neo-ple unless underlying its applied psychology psychol-ogy wre two -i::-.t:o;.::i!;y which takes a tensely grirr-ing ho'.rj on the uoeper being be-ing of the iudivid'-jal. For instance, snobbery snob-bery is no;, valid. Emotions other than fear, notably vanity and modesty, affect the wearer cf clothes in any social environment, en-vironment, but I believe that the movinj way educate men to trust to their wives and-cisterr and sweethearts and mothers, or even aunts as to when their suit is fitting or not fitting to the person-ality, person-ality, remember, not to their body only-it only-it would be a dist'net advantage in the securing se-curing of satisfied customers, and thereby of a better-dressed public. A woman is the ideal arbiter of manly clothing. "For the most part the 'hobo,' the truly down-nd-outer, dries not appear even among snobs well-dressed; and only rarely is the highly 'successful' (that it ' merely rich) business man positively ili-drcssed, however much of a philosopher he mav be. For practical business purposes then! clothing certainly, as Mr. Ilillmaa sayfc proclaims the man.' " |