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Show j A Pictorial Demonsteatwnf Lewis's Mathematical ' xMW J he Womnn Cnn Determine Direct ffi f wl,n the ?." c Left a Knct Ob- $ -IPSilSsi C?V- S& Ae.tbetlclcni NcceMnry o fn'in It Stralch? lteil br the Little Marker J? 'mS?1 iJBiV 'W- 5 Determine It of Herself ThrouCh the Median 17Z AV,,OHe "Blc " " the SITOt tSt 1, tbengle oheGrnd- of the Forehead nn? -Sohc' Decree Suovrn. ' 'f-'f jien the Most Frivolous Based on Easily-Learned Rigid & f Mathematical and Geometrical :?':8pS( 3' ' f Rules, Explains the Most Famous ; - ' french Man Milliner, Coming to iThis Country to Teach Women M : Ihw to Make Hat, Hair and ' "C? .. '- I Face All Work Together JD . WMflBHlir . I.TS, dear ladies, are not just a matter of taste. They are a matter of pure mathematics jometry plus taste. Nor are Uhemntical and geomertricnl confined to the hats alone, each down to the face ami II to do with the arrangement wis, the greatest Frenchman" r, lias discovered tills, and he ng to America to teaeh'Anier-smcn teaeh'Anier-smcn just how to wear their r M. Lewis's theory no woman er again ask the classic quests ques-ts my hat on straight?" In t place, M. Lewis doeB not be-ut be-ut any woman ought to wear on strnight; and. in the sec-ce, sec-ce, a very simple calculation as in relation to a 'fixed point liat itself will enable her to a glance just whether or not Ulou is poised upon her head the wnj to bring out Its max-r max-r effectiveness, wis is, in the world of mil-romewhat mil-romewhat nkin to what, some a ago, Benvenuto Cellini was "r.ld of goldsmiths. If Signer did not like the looks of his or thought the jewel she wouldn't look well upon her Ifln't sell that lady the jewel. Is is such an autocrat that ter how wealthy the patron bo cannot have the hat that nts unless M. Lewis thinks will become the hat as much thinks that hat will become wis supplies hats to the most Me and distinguished women orld. He supplies hats to E the queens of Europe, but he It distinctly understood that not supply hats to all of li no! indeed 1 for there are t them oh yes, quite u num-nom num-nom ho would not wish to the crowned ladles for whom been pleased to design hats is rina of Russia. There is a d haunting sadness about her 't calls for an artist to design roprinto creation to crown it. '8 puts such exquisite psycho-nuances psycho-nuances Into his hats! npan women can be the most e world," said M. Lewis re- announcing his delcrniiua-v delcrniiua-v sit us. "They are file most the world when they know "e. But such a vast number art of thtz mnat Ic end because a little ln-n, ln-n, in how to elr hats, etore," explaln-wls, explaln-wls, "I will go !rtca and teach On," he went ina bay that I P.tlc. It is nee-A nee-A Jut ought to f bo. worn at J?Ifaad in mind created it As fa painter to S as to wear a angle other designed to ve that few Jta dare to Satelierr with K otrlalght.' B?A earn at my choice of the cravat and the manner of its arrangement be-token be-token the degree of his personal per-sonal ta?te, so with the lady -of conspicuous station the angle at which she carries ber hat upon her presumably : graceful and shapely head de-. de-. termines her'rank Jn the hier- ' archy of the chic. "Every hat should in the first place conform to the physiognomy of tho wearer. Stereotyped forms are ridiculous. ri-diculous. The hat and the arrangement ar-rangement of the hair should frame the visage. As great care should bo takon in this as one would take to provide a suitable frame for a picture by Rembrandt, Velasquez or Raphael. "Every person has his op ner individual style. It should bo tho serious seri-ous business or each 0. to discern that stylo and to study the means of availing gltSM himself or herself $WM of it most Intelli- WM&$ Under M. Lewis's system his clients are encouraged to have provisory hat-tforms moulded on their heads n a special material. Thlc h-nnfm. The Geometnca, D.sIgn, J$ ' Based on Pure Mathema- MM'?f Shapoh mental, and by dressing false hair on these models, he arrives very readily at an absolutely correct idea of the kind of coiffure that is most desirable in each case. The client then chooses her tlsBUc. What la achieved, In chief, is tho bringing into relief of the finest traits and tho best contours of tho head and face. It is, Jn fact, much tho same work as that of a sculptor In posing and draping the figure of his model. "There are endless numbers of .pretty, even beautiful, women who partly disguise their supreme charm by failure to adorn their heads according ac-cording to tho simplest principles of art," says M. Lewis. "Thor.e are vastly vast-ly greater numbers of plain, or oven homely, women who yet possess on , or more traits of outline or of contour con-tour that would be interesting and even charming, perhaps, If Ihoy know how to make thorn apparent. "This s'tago having b'een passed, the mathematical and geometrical actors now enter. Tho New "Show-the-Hair" Ilat Which Though Unlike M. Lewis's Creation Stlli IlnB Exactly Ex-actly the Same "Geometrical "Geomet-rical Bulance." 4 "Tho ideal hat must have perfect balance. Tin's balance must not be disturbed by either the arrangement of the hair or the shape of the face. ' All these three factors must be combined com-bined in one harmonious balance, which can be reduced to simple geometrical geo-metrical balance in relation to the three factors of itself, the hair and the shape of the face. It will be a perfect hat," says M. Lewis. "The thing to do, therefore, is to pick out the salient curves and the axis of the hat and tho salient curves and axis of the face, and see that the bulance is there. "For instance, suppose we have a hat which is symbolized as a perfect circle. This would not look well upon a face which is itself a perfect circle. The effect would be to emphasize em-phasize too much the circularity of ,tho hat and of tho face. But if the hair can be so arranged as to break the circular emphasis and yet on each side of the two circles give a third .figure which is not out of balance with the two circles the effect may be charming. "Again, the best balance may be obtained by placing the circle of the hat at an angle of twenty degrees to the axis of the circle of the face and then using a decoration on the left which will give a similar circle there. This Is the geometrical theory which will be made plainer by reference to the geometrical figures on this page, which interpret the various hats." After a full study of the Individual Individ-ual head in question and of the hat that is to cover it, there Is determined deter-mined a point within it that Is to rest precisely upon the median line of tho forehead, which is In exact unison with the line of the nose! The hat must not be placed in any position which will cause this point to fall elsewhere than upon the The Xcrr tg7 I.e,T, .RInB AW0WW$'-. M . Hat and 3 ' '7? ' rr Mfe&& median line. The point Is, of course, marked, and serves to prevent the fair wearer from committing a heresy against the gospel of chic. It may bo marked by a rose, a bow but It Is always marked. It Is like tho fulcrum of a lever or the centre of gravity of any balanced object. ob-ject. .If the wearer has been Instructed In-structed to tilt the hat to the left or to the right or backwards or forwards, and always adheres to tho coincidence of point and median line, she cannot fall, after a few essays, to get the true angle. And thus is tho supposed logic of the Illogical fair one who Is ever anxious that her hat shall bo "on straight" eternally refuted! "With me to America," said M. Lewis, "I shall take two mannequins man-nequins aB we call them living liv-ing models. One of these girls will be beautiful, and when I say that I carr assure you that she will be 'as beautiful as a dream.' And the other will be well, what 1 might call, between you and me, unc vicillc caricature, an 'old valentine.' valen-tine.' You may find such also in many Paris millinery workshops, women who have done good service, but are now decrepit and decayed, and aro kept on simply to savo them ill oiio -uouel on i. ...e Arrangement of Hair and Shape of Face Play an Important Part in Carrying Out Its Geometry. Geo-metry. It Could Not Be Worn by a Thin-Faced, Long-Nosed Long-Nosed Woman. from falling into utter want 9IUI trip to New York may do her goa-V j film may make her young again, and put wjjl some new color into her cheeks. fjuJ "Well, with one of these manne ttw quins I shall show how a fine woman. j jjff . can bo made to look ordinary, If not ! vulgar, by the Ill-placing of a beautl- ful hat; and with the other how a j W& plain face may bo lifted almost Into Ml beauty by exactly the contrary treatn gjjl ment Bj! "Diagrams will fix the visual lessori f by contrast and concordance of fll lines. But no mathematical rules or1. a jjjuj Illustrations can fully explain tho y!Si eystom. It Js experimental, and hIM based upon what I might term an I'll artificially produced Instinct, tho lllfi Zrult of yeare of experience. ttU "Yet each, woman can acquire this s ma instinct so far as she herself Is per-i W Snally concerned. Some women - fJj C aro born with it and tho enormous jRll majority ca6 easily dovelop It once iwjjj the way has boen shown them. Jjjffl "I do not like women to wear my inffl iiata who do not know how to wear, Wk them. There Is a British Duchess, Zjjfl well advanced In years, who usually Insists on wearing the hats which Z jjjjj make for her with tho hind side be- HnJ "She bought fourteen hats from me I mjp at once, but I refused to send more J Bjjl than four or fivo of them to hor, q&lj because. 1 did not approve of her j Si oholce. It would have meant ruin j for me to havo allowed her to fol- llliln low her own fantasies In the matter, J WiU for 1 would havo been held respon- jnjfl slblo for thorn. j tjjw "Suppose on a visit to the Queen at f jjjjj Buckingham Palace sho had worn a j cjll hat that made her an object of rldl- JWjjj oulo! I can't think of that posal- mj blllty without a shiver of horror! ft II "She never chooses a hat here buft jttjlij she says to me: 'Now, M. Lewis, I 11 1 think this will go nicest Just tho j jfjjl Other way around.' And then we tifnfl 'have a dispute. It I Ki fif always ends by ml Mi mr refusing to let her have the hat jg unless she wears In a it according to my j fl N. instructions, and, In I y o f ' course, she gjjjf yields. So, you see, SjlJ jr what a fino moral jajji jf Yv influence I exer- i tffi cist for I contend ; ijlll V J that to wear one of J ' my esthetic crea- Krai This tlons Jn a wrong ' SWH GcomctricnJ nnd stupid fashion Ijfjl mSSV'et is immoral. ' 1 1 Th! Jint. "JEnfin then j MSB do not ever worry whether your hat is not 'on straight Effifl worry that it is 'on straight.' I "Study your face for Its salient) jjSI charm and Its salient weakness. If yoh have a long noso do not wear j jjflSj a hat like a bonnet of Satan to ac- centuate it. If you have a very snub fui nose do not wear hats like pan- , ajjjjj cakes. But If the nose Is adorably i m fine and straight or adorably re- Hjnj trousse, woar a hat that will artistic- i Bull ally accentuate the charm will call j M attention to It So it 1b of mouth, eyes, tgtfg cnra all th? face. It must har- jj monlze, Interpret, accentuate. It ; IfiB ought never to convert the melody j ma - of a face Into ragtime, and this la j m J what It so often docs. jjjjj "When shape, color and all tho resfl Rj Is settled, then find and fix the ex- jgglj act angle by the method 1 have out- jajn lined. Li "So you will bo chlo as any woman desires." f Ivt One of M. Lewis's women-assist- J lf to publish her memoirs ' loj "Twentv Years in the jfij Atelier of the World's HW Great ob t Man-Mil- mil liner." i "The little Crownl MB Princess of Germany Jang is the most interesting 9pi!f ' of our royal clients," SgHi' she says, "she docs not sfPlls know how to dress, but jgitf she Is so nico and j Mul not one bit proud. j Ea She's gay, always has jpij kind and funny things SDJU to say and readily ac- '5j4 cepts all the good sug- HDf gestions given her as 5jH to how she should wear ; fill ' her hats. Wm "But the Crown-Prln- ,N cessV mother! It's easy fbffi to see that the poor m& Crown Princess could IfllH not very well help hav- I I ing some very queer f 11118 and very common Ideas i jM about dress under her 8 f( tea c hi n g s and ox- Mrm ample." ' "P |