| OCR Text |
Show Latest New York Fashions B y EDITH EAYMOND, III NEW YORK, Oct. 10. Severely A tailored black satin coats lined with a Tj t Etrong color which is repeated in the j T hat is tho latest fancy from the other Bide, where most of tho fashions find r . their origin. The style is reminiscent ' u of tho directoiro period, which is being '-i - copied more or less faithfully just now i3 " by stylo makers. In that racy day, ) neck fixings, stockings and shoes were i all of the same shade, often in strik- ing contrast to tho color of the gown itself. 'Considering the amount of work 1 on the coats, they are not expensive. I it A rational hat that is finding favor (m among women who take a middle ground in tho styles is covered with I velvet draped with silk and trimmed il rather far back with barnyard plumage Jm and one fluffy gray-white aigrette that Hj softens the mass. These hats como in one-color schemes, Buck as myrtle, green, U chestnut brown, faded violet and Black. n ' An odd hat in ono of the shops is in a soft yellow as nearly approaching ff squash color as anything. The hat is t , all in silk except the facing, which is r velvet. All thp way around the big hat I there is a latticed arrangement of long il 1 quills of the same color as the hat, the j quills being placed as fiat as the ar- i Tangement permits. One of the recent ' fancies of the French milliner this sea- )j eon is the planting of the trimming on I the right side instend of the left side a of thp hat. Some of the crowns of 2 , stunning bats have the crown entirely 1 covered with feathers or flowers. A H smart creation t made in the workroom of one of the city houses is a big shape D . covered with amethyst faille with the entire crown massed with roses and H3 foliage that shade through exquisite Ba! amethyst and "dead" shades. From Hjj; 1 the flowers and leaves at the edgo of HjCv. the crown there, emerge pointed loops Hfe 'of amethyst satin ribbon all the way Hf. around the hat. ht H ' The newest sleeve is so close fitting B that it has to be buttoned to the elbow ! after putting it on; and sleeves buttoned but-toned all the way to the shoulders have been heard of. The hat, of course, is put on before the waist under such circumstances, cir-cumstances, or a maid ndnusts it for 1 tho wearer. With not only waists but- toning in the back but sleeves fasten- Rj ' r their entire length, and even the H! I hat out of its owner's reach, a maid H J seems a very necessary part, of a wom- R -tin's equipment. B, H The one-piece gown has never had a K moro substantial vogue than at this R hour, but in its wake there arc endless B- - varieties of other models which show no R disposition to play second to any style. Hf I'J'o leader in all cases is the dir'ectoire. H ot a dressmaker or a gown buyer lias HlU ' tllG courage to "turn down" this popular fashion. Even the most conservative con-servative houses have had to admit that the style is here for tho next few months. But the modifications are often more numerous than tho points copied from the original type. Many of the conservatives, of course, refuse to admit the substantial vogue of a skirt that sheathes the limbs immodestly immodest-ly and few if any of them will have anything at all to do with tho skirt with open slashes at the side. But that despised open slash is furnishing a theme for a large number of fashionable fashion-able skirts of conservative shape. Jn fact, it might bo said that up to this day there are more skirts of pretensions to modishness that have slashed effects 'than do not. These slashed effects are usually on only one side, and that tho left one. but sometimes there aro slashes on both sides. The slash is filled in with panels of satin if the gown is cloth or velvet, or with braided cloth or velvet if the gown be cloth or velvet or with embroidery. Tho sides are finished with big satin buttons but-tons or with satin cord frogs or ornaments orna-ments or with braiding in one form or another. In evening gowns the slash is filled in with laco frills or witli gauze of one sort or another with gold tissue, embroidered handsomely. A handsome black broadcloth gown seen this week had slashes to the knees at intervals all the way around tho skirt, and the slashes were filled in with black braided cloth and finished on both sides with big black satin buttons with loops simulating sim-ulating button holes. Many of the skirts' that are. in one with their bodices have a simulated opening at the side which extends the lino to the shoulder from the, hem of the skirt. For young women and girls the walking walk-ing length is, and will be, retained throughout the winter a matter of choice; but for matrons, the long skirt, and preferably the very long trailing ono, js decidedly the order where a costume cos-tume of any formality is concerned. In the majority; of models the very nature of their designing makes tho added length a necessity. This is especially true of tbe princess panel styles. They are seldom graceful unless their lines are extended in several inches of apparently ap-parently superfluous material swirliifg around the floor. On tho other hand, if the new lines are developed with the shorter skirt, it should be rather above than below ankle length, or, to put it nccuratelv, at ankle and not instep length. For afternoon wear there are a number of charming models that are a compromise between the past season's styles and those of the new season, but in all costumes that are intended for formal wear the new- features are clearly clear-ly emphasized, A skirt just touching the ground evenly all around, if it is severely plain, will have an appearance of exaggerated leugth, and a fold or other trimming may be sloped from tho front downward to the center back in such a manner that the skirt has quite tho effect of being trained. Furriers claim that seal will be the popular winter fur, and though tho price of this pelt makes it prohibitive for the average woman, those whose in-comestaro in-comestaro small need not denv themselves them-selves wraps made from this sit in, for nowadays the French seal is prepared and fiulshed in such an admirable manner man-ner that it is almost impossible to distinguish dis-tinguish from it the costly genuine Alaska seal. As is evidenced by the favoritism displayed for seal, the fancy for dark, rich colors has entered the fur domain, and, except for evening even-ing wear, white and light-colored pelts .will not be seen. IDrminc; that has ranked so high for several seasons past, will now tako a second or even lower i place, and the gray furs, such as squir- I rel and chinchilla, will be relegated to tho same position. Mink is a staple fur that is alwajTs worn, and so is Persian lamb. Tho pelt known as pointed fox is made up into exceedingly handsome accessories that can hardly be distin- fuished from the genuine skins. Pointed ox is a black fur that has white hairs inserted by hand, and it is reported that it gives excellent service, notwithstanding notwith-standing the fact that some of it is artificial. This fur, worn with a black toilet, is very effective. Among the less expensive dark furs aro black tynx, brown fox and Alaska sable. The last named is really the best wearing pelt that enn be bought for the price, and is a very handsome fur, and were it not for tho fact that it almost always retains a slight odor, not altogether agreeable, Alaska sablo (really skunk) would rank among the moro expensive furs because of its appearance ap-pearance and wearing qualities. Black lynx is a soft fur that is not durable, and dyed fox, though more substantial, requires care in wearing or it will barely bare-ly last during one season. In styles tho coats aro long, for few models arc shorter than half length and three-quarters three-quarters is the more usual. A desirable style for a handsome coat of. mink thirty inches long is to build it on empire em-pire lines, the stripes arranged in round effect, stimulating a short yoke, which supports a perfectly straight body, Tho sleeves should be com shaped, long, of course, and the collar closed close to the throat. There is no visible closing down the front nothing, in fact, to detract de-tract from tho extreme beauty of the fur and its manipulation. The "majority of the fur coats show jeweled buttons as a decoration. The Persian lamb and the dved squirrel wraps display extremely ex-tremely handsome effects in buttons; The newest style in Persian lamb coats is thirty-four inches long nnd out to define the figure, and closes tightly to the left side, with mock jeweled buttons. but-tons. The sleeves in tight coat shnpe, and the neck finished with a shawl collar col-lar of sable complete a stunning wrap. The sealskin coats follow the lines of the above closely, and a new feature of many of them is the neck finish a standing collar made with ends that cross over each other, arranged as a cravat. This will solve the difficulty of a suitable bit of neckwear that is a finish to a fur coat. A.i to the fur accessories, muffs arc flat and show no material change in style from those Jn vogue last year. Five mink skins, with their heads and tails, make the average size muff. There seems to be no ex-tremo ex-tremo in skins this year. Scarfs arc flat and are on the throw or pelerine shape; square on the shoulders, rather than pointed in back and front. Few very small fur pieces will be worn except ex-cept in caracul. This pelt is quite cheap just now. which indicates that it may have run itself out of favor last year. Pon3 too, will rank in popularitj with caracul, except for auto wear, the choice for motoring being for tho hand-so hand-so inerricherfur |
