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Show J F 5' I V tV -t?: Sma, Pound ff Is the Keynote ot - TV'l '1 5 ? Vj MSf'"- -kVJ A Tirtar Costume ' f? . : ' F!tV- ! " con'lons or ,a1ome, of the aubtl, ,1 J I ' f - U ' - V'J; ,, ') !- seducthe graces of the harem. ; xt ' J , ;-t-;:Vf0 ' ?' TWb , ill be characterized by;fWon hi ? ! I r . It tt tfMfv?,. 1 torlans as the reign of the carf. Never ere J i i V ' ' 4 I ' 1 r " ' 5 Pjtf"! scarf? so much worn, never so indispensable to i f.Sl I f "ll f 'f, " n ) J ' the elegance of a grande toilette. .Yet if you ' . X I , .3 K M , ' 5 j j t v - , j"TC V ,v1 observe the kaleidoscopic procession of women v ; $ "if 'U.J I ' K, ' " r V - - I at a fete you can bbt see that many of them ars. , . j A3 ' L " !ti v - fc'', T s, not to the manner of the scarf born.' ' k' 1 - ' ' jJ ; ' - " m Some are too unconscious of them, allowing , y ''f$ A I ' ' ' 'l ! 'S them to drag beneath their own feet and the feet i . w l-'i ' ill' ' " s " , i of others Some are too conscious of them, 1 ' r 5 4 ' ! j i 1 ' i'5 tl , ' x . ! appblng their energies assiduo' sly to keeping $ 1 " '$ " ' 3 Li It A -r l'1 . " " "1 them in place Man give the impression of not i , " v " fc' . ' ' , r t ' fx"S1 ' being accustomed to their scarfed state, -whereas 4 ? I , i' ' f t V J 1 t t " V " " V,fv-' v' . ,x""v)t' S- j 1 ' tne triumph of good dressing is to seem absc- 'l "' v, ! ' ? V f J v , ' " '?l " I lutelv unconscious of your habiliments. A little -r . - ,'), " V ' ; v ' 1 t ' ' "i " 8 " i " r " j practice at home ir the manipulation of the " ' IiM ( . ' " 1 ' ' 1 , ! 4 ,' , s ' l- sf ' - S scarf which a3 it ?rowB larger grows more diffi-' i 4 1 ' il " ' x V ' J 5 J cult should banish this guacherle. V " n J s i, 1 - '4j ' LtWi.vJ.1iA,-.ii Properly managed, the scarf should enhance X? 7 -5 , f ' 1 , ' j i f . i't , the beauties of a costume as measurably as a j " -m , A ' " f ! ...... J !. ell does the face ' ' f , J i 1 ' , v, ' t j TAp Vei in Some Form Is an Indispensable Part In colors the Orient continues to give ita in- ' ' 1 i - ' , ''1 of Oriental Attire fallible lessons Ten thousand years ago China lt - ' - , , " h " T AD Y DUFF-GORDON, the famou' blending of colors ' f , " . vi t&t. i l - ' lf 1 ..r i r i j j t . .t The East kno-ws that colors ho'w ever different, blend f ' s'-s S ' 1 , y i 1 Lucile of London, and foremost creator ot , . 1 , , J ' , ' -'sa.' v ! (i- ' ill lf t,le correct intermediarj colors take their place be- ,! "'1 ' t ' ' , i ' t1 fashions in lha uorld, writes each week the teen them For instance, the coloi minglers of the J ' y . f i' ' ' ?i ' ' ' ' ' (V V I ? 1 r ' X fashion article for tins newspaper, pre-enting all that Orient would not impose a bUlliant red upon a dark I i , ' ' ' Xi J r ? is newet and bet in styles for wll-dresesd women brown, but if they wished to bring 'hese colors together C 1 f- ' 5 J , , " i ;! 1 1 i Ladv Duff-Gordon's Pans establishment br.ngs ln tne Eame fabric would lead gndually to their wed-; " . 1 X " , i " her into clo;e touch v,ith that centre of fashion loci4 bv the introductio i of a paler brown into which' '"" V,.4 ' K ' ' 1 Lady Duff Gordon's American establishments the deep brown seemed to fade and a duller red that ' j x , j? - ' . are qt Nos 37 and 39 West Fifty seventh street, seemed to grow lcs vivid brfore it met the lighter ' S ' iu " S i " New York, and No HOO Loke Sho.c D.ne, brown A secret of the Oriental mingling of colors ll f . j J ' -t ' j.K " , Chicago. their graduation -T ' . f , ' , Nor 1 the Oriental color mler afraid of many , " ' , Mi. ' 4 - V -v colois He essa s without fear the commingling of the ? ' V 1 " f" ' " ' T" " "K v, seven shades of the rainbow But the exqulteness of lf J u , , ' f - hls Brt 's shown by the gradual molting of the color v ( , ' ' " , v. x fM, into each othei as clouds meet and mingle, the edges ot ''''. r,!v v , VX, "s ' - 7. one protruding beneath tho sides of the other. t " ' '-ii , f ' V v f X 1 V-- But while what might be t"rmed the Tartar touch is ' , i, t;i I - ' ' s'J, r """"" -M- , nXXx RPParent ln the handsomer and mo-d stately gowns, I , ' w i v "s iyc " ' v v , thev aie only occasional The simpler frocks for mid- J J 4.' " ' " f '"f f " i t x- N S summer wear do not show them except in a collar or J t '4 pi " ' 1 Cf,' "" ' jf 'V,v scaif or sash or a bit of inset embroidery- The trend j ' i ' "" '"'2 of ttste and the considerition of convenience dictate i" r , Iif?nt welSht, little trimmed outer garments for warm iid I 4 4 ' W - weather - -i It conjurss visions of Salome, of the subtle, m ? seductive graces of the harem. Jf This will be characterized by 'fashion his-M his-M J torlans as the reign of the scarf. ' Never -were ;lJ scarfs so much worn, never so indispensable to m r :.i the elegance of a grande toilette. Yet if you m n. observe the kaleidoscopic procession of women v yj : at a fete- you can but see that many of them are. J not to the manner of the scarf born.' M ,-? Some are too unconscious of them, allowing i'A " f them to drag beneath their own feet and the feet t'i'l ' of others. Some are too conscious of them, 'i applying their energies assiduously to keeping j ' them in place. Many give the impression of not t 5- ? being accustomed to their scarfed state, whereas :m the triumph of good dressing is to seem abso- -- lutelv unconscious of your habiliments. A little . : practice at home in the manipulation of the Ii t scarf, which as it ?rows larger grows -more d i ff I-' - cult, should banish this guacherle. '-'d " Properly managed, the scarf should enhance the beauties of a costume as measurably as a ' -t veil does the face. In colors the Orient continues to give its infallible in-fallible lessons. Ten thousand years ago China and India had mastered the last word ln the blending of colors. The East knows that colors, however different, blend if the correct intermediary colors take their place between be-tween them. For instance, the color mlnglers of the Orient would not impose a brilliant red upon a dark brown, but if they wished to bring these colors together m the same fabric would lead gradually to their wed lock bv the introduction of a paler brown into which the deep brown seemed to fade and a duller red that seemed to grow less vivid brfore it met the lighter brown. A secret of the Oriental mingling of colors li their graduation. Nor is the Oriental color mixer afraid of many colors. He essays without fear the commingling of the seven shades of the rainbow. But the exqulteness of his art is shown by the gradual molting of the color Into each other as clouds meet and mingle, the edges ot one protruding beneath tho sides of the other. But while what might be termed the Tartar touch is apparent ln the handsomer and mo'-j stately gowns, they are only occasional. The simpler frocks for midsummer mid-summer wear do not show them except in a collar or J scarf, or sash, or a bit of Inset embroidery. The trend j V of taste and the consideration of convenience dictate ?' I light weight, little trimmed outer garments for warm lid I weather. J v YfY" ?l'Y: ' v ,.J, I , , , " - ! t i.f i - v , "'; " - w r ' ' ' s i , f X ; i v - ' -:i t r r .... . , -i v .'11 -I ' i The Close Fitting, Clc:s: ' Sihb.-o-.rcti Coo', on the Lines of a Cg.jz ?.l ul, is Part of a. Tartar Gown ' ' - . n ppiicn of the Long Shawl-Like Scarf Is the New Fine Art By Lady Duff-Gordon ("LUCILE") rI""i;:E wearing of a Tartar costume should not make 3 the wearer subject to romarks about a bad tern-per tern-per The Tartar was indeed a ferocious wai-rlor, wai-rlor, but he had another function. He wore strlkins costumes, bold in design, magnificent in color. His bat, too, was peculiar to the Tartar. I show you on this page an adaptation ot the fierce Tartar costume to the needs and taste of the fashionable fashion-able woman. The hat is the dominating note. It Is not only chic, but has a utilitarian value. The close-brimmed close-brimmed hat, while not particularly becoming to any save a very young and lovely face, Is the moat useful of head coverings. It does not Invite the havoc of the wind, and it does combine in friendly fashion with a veil. The Tartar hat presents another advantage. It has a low crown. That has certain aesthetic values.. Generally speaking, tjyi.t;..c..... . .... . .....;,.:., '.j.i-.l the low crown is more symmetrical. Regarding the wearor and her attire as a whole, the low circle of the Tartar hat blends with the curves of the body, whereas the high, stiff-crowned hat gives the Impression of something that is an Interloper, that does not "belong." The Tartar shape deserves to enjoy popular favor tor more than one fleeting season. It Is smart because II is trim- its trnnness commends It for the demi-toilette- Us usefulness should guarantee it long life as an accessory of a walking suit. It Is a natural crown for an Oriental costume, and It seems that tho touch of Orientalism in dressing 1b, like the poor, always al-ways with us. Tho embroidered robe worn with this hat Is a type of the rich stuffs which are worn when possible bv those who love beautiful fabrics. That, of course, includes in-cludes all women. Tlio ornate gauzes and embroidered silks have their , Inspiration in the Orient. Though made by Western looms, the fount of their beauty is the East. ' The stamp of the Orient is upon the voll-like gowns so greatly In vogue. Tho long, floating, yet swathing, veil Is part of the East part of the mystery of the East i L.i ...... . . ' Nainsook, baUslos and muslins do not blend well with barbaric splendoi. At most, a sash or girdle that s Introduces the soitly minficii many colors of the East '! Is permissible. Or a scarf of crepe or organdie may present these colors Finthermore, the sports character ot midsummer 1 dressing precludes Orientalism In simpler dress. The use of the long, sleevelet jacket of velvet or of cro- ', ' ( chetted silk leaves no ..urface. so to speak, for the ' '.' Introduction of the Oriental sash or girdle. Besides. ' iich sash would be an incoiiKrutty. It would be a I i jarring note in tho symphony of clothes. My personal preference is for the sheerest, least C X tangible of apparel for the heyday ot Summer. Go to C the garden for your inspiration for Summer clothes. -) Observe the delicacy of tho rose petals and the tender ,",', J frailty of pansies. With the. single exception of crepes 4 none of what I call the gentlefolk among the fabrics' ir'-, j bears harmonious combany with the stirrer, richer ft weaves produced in f.e East. Save for the girdle or V- sash aforementioned and possibly the inauv colored iTu V enamelled buckles for hat. or low shoes, it were better V1' to keep your rich alufts In abeyance for the nine more V .heavily garbed months of the year.; : ! |