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Show I ; Latest New York Fashions ' By EDITH EAYMOND I" j XEW YOJiK. Dec. 5. Satin and net are (ho two most uacd materials for 1 elaborate costumes this season. Silks j aud velvets arc employed in profusion, j but their voue is mild in comparison. Satin weaves are- many, as might be cx- I poctod when empire stylos are the reisjii- I injj type. Oiks of the now manifest:!- t lions among them ha a tine wool back ground, w.ith the flossiest silk face. Suppleness and light miss of weight aro i common to all. The eonvenionr.e. of j dressmakers has been considered in the. j doubling of the widths of many such fabrics. The circular skirt requires the , double width. Black flourishes in af- ternoou and evening costumes. Except i at the most brilliant opera night open ings, black gowns have been in a good proportion among the handsomest, roil-! roil-! ets. and even then some of the leaders j of fashion have made ihcm their choice. Lace, net, chiffon and velvet are all i seen in black gowns, and many of them nre richly spangled and .iotted. For afternoon, af-ternoon, the black broadcloth or rough i eerge gown is one of the most popular. F'fth -i venue tea rooms are the places I to soo the elaborate tailormade. All tho lasiiuMitible notels in the city now servo iflernoon ton. in a room restful with ! flowers, muni- rnul daintily appointed tables, and thiih " women going to and j from reception- returning from enter- ! tainments; shoppers worn out with perplexities, per-plexities, and oul-of-towners, suburbanites, suburb-anites, and t irv folk generally who have made engagements with one another, meet for a chat over the teacup. Jn nil theso places the tnilormado at its best., the very apotheosis of tailoring, is to be found. A prevailing feature of the smartest costumes is braiding, which is used lavishly on tho upper .part of tho toilot. Tho skirt is more often than not perfectly plain. But coals and bodices nmko up for its deficiencies in tho way of ornament. k A delightfully becoming costume worn at a wedding recently was of nut-brown nut-brown liberty satin, elaborately embroidered em-broidered in the same tono. Thoro was a long draped tunic, and a black satin sash, which was fringed at tho ends. The whito tulle yoko hud touches of gold soutache, and tho brown hat, covered cov-ered with silk cashmere, was trimmed with brown feathers. Another guest at the sumo wedding wore a black embroidered embroid-ered mousselino dc soio gown, made over I whito liberty satin. The bertha was of j old Alcncon laco and tho sleeves were long and scanty. Tho hat was all black, trimmed with 'rich ostrich feathers. u At a wedding reception tho other day. there was seen a gown that took one back to eighteenth century days. The under gown was of whito silk cashmere, bordered around tho foot with j a heaw band of beaver. Tho coat was ! of white, satin, lined with beautiful old green brocade. It was of directoire style, finished with embroidery and iewelled buttons. The satin revcrs and ' Napoleonic collars were edgod narrowly with fur. j Somo of tho new ribbed silk coals sent hero from Paris nro trimmod with I Alaska sable skunk. This ono-timo humble, fur has become very popular in Paris, but is less so on this side, Golden otter was seen on a brown coat tho other day. It is also used on whito coats. Speaking of furs recalls a n sumptuous- wrap that wont to tho opera rho other night. It was a long, j I voluminous mantlo of ermine cut in I shawl shape, slanting sharply away from tho bust, where it met with iow-j iow-j oiled catches. From the bust thero I dropped loosely from I ho points of tho I coat stolo ends of tho ermine, which j wcro straight on tho front side and ; rounded on tho back. The. sides of tho j mantle and tho back edges of tho stolo I were bordered with very rich silver cm-j cm-j broidery. A fringe of tails fell over this band' of embroidery all around the i coat and tho length of J-hu stole onds. j Bannuuartcn is a leading fur on tho j other side this winter, and sometimes it : almost equals sablo for rich appearnueo. i Brown caracul is being ued extensively j by Parisians for entire coats. It is ofton j lined with shirred chiffon and cm-broidery. cm-broidery. Ponv skin has been wonder fully efianged from tho .harsh hairy pelt which first appeared in its name. It is now as soft and fino as the best furs and is wonderfully becoming. Muffs of every description will bo carried this season. The only shape not I in voguo is tho round model. Those are still relegated to oblivion, while "pillows1 "pil-lows1 ' reign supromo. But (hero is a slight chango from last year's designs even in these. If there was reason last winter for tho name "pillow," there is cvon more now, for without exception tho lOOS-'Ofl patterns havo four sharp corners, without rounded tops. Iucidontally somo of tho now mink and sablo muffs look liko a wholo fur faraiby, for tho foundation i.i simply covered with tho animals' heads and tails. Indeed, extra taila show gayly, for frequently botweon tho two foro paws an nppendugo not placed thoro 1)3' naturo is attachod. It is a protly fashion, this, of usiug mnuy tails, for it I is soft and graceful, and whon similar ones appear on tho hats an ensomblo is made, oven though there bo no grcator quantity of fur in tho millinery, bvou Persian lamb muffs nro ornamented orna-mented with soft black tails and heads. Thoy aro smart and relievo the som-brencHs som-brencHs of tho fur. Quito tho newest lynx and fox muffs j nre those made of tho wholo animal, divided in two. For instnnco, tho head and fore paws hang down tho front, tho other part of tho body forming tho back. Tho skins aro linod flat, and thero is a separate silk or satin piceo sowed across on tho inside, through which tho hnuds arc thrust. Thero is no utuffing of any kind, and tho effect "is entirely Hat. Quite tho most beautiful, and incidentally inci-dentally tho most expensive, muffs arc those lined with fur. To a woman who would givo hor annual allowanco to havo a set of Russian sables it seems a waste to make a muff of sablo within, us well a3 without, yet this is done, and some of tho nowest ermines aro treatod in the same fashion. Whito fox muffs are lined with whito ponv skin or any short soft fur, whilo mink is backed with tho same. A definite liking for marabou as a hat covering is evident. Fur for thin elimato is burdensomo most of tho time, and marabou has all its effect without its wfcight and warmth. Ono of tho most becoming turbans scon in tho crowded tea room of one of tho hotels this week was of dark brown marabou trimmed with ono big dull - roso and a long swooping ostrich foath-j foath-j or. Many such turbans aro trimmed with ostrich plumes, which start from I tho front and aro caught thoro with I rich .iow'oHod ornamonts. Theso ornaments orna-ments aro always largo. Nothing small and demure is used tins year. An odd turban, which reminded ono.jof tho old I mob cap, was seen tho other day on u : sparkling bruuotlo. It was mado of I box-plaited black satin, each plait of j tho crown terminating in a big black I velvet bncklo, whilo tho plaits at tho brim wcro loose and allowed to fall in floppy effect. Tho under brim was of ! emerald green lnco and tulle, j i j Laco covers somo of the smart hats. Ono which was worn at a matiueo had u dome-shaped crown covered smoothly j with yellow satin and black thread laco over tho satin. Tho only trimming was a cluster of black plumes. The slightly turned up side showed a facing of black velvet. The fiheathbocker. a combination of knickerbocker and brassiere, has been constructed to take tho place of petticoats, petti-coats, which nro difficult to wear under un-der tho close lltting directoire frocks, j This combination garment is most attractive at-tractive and decidedly practical, for it j fits the form closely and takes the piano j of the rorset cover and a petticoat. By j a clever arrangement the cut is bias over the hips, so that it moulds exaetlv to tho figure, whilo in the back all full- I ness is eliminated by means of darts. It closes in thy front and not a wrinkle, cronso or atom of unnecessary fullness is visible. As to tho upper portion of this article, tho corsot covor, it has a boned lining. Not only is thero boning down tho closing, but a group of thrco bones four inches long is sot on just nbovo tho curve of tho bust at tho fronl, a most agrooable foaturo, as it gives a roundness and support to the bust no); obtained from tho ordinary corsot cover. Tho closing down tho front is with rustproof hooks and oyes and the boning prevents ugly gaps. A fly conconls tho closing and is prettily fl'nishod with a laco edging. Tho .-join of tho bockcr to tho corsot covor at tho waist lino is smooth. At tho knoc there is n broad elastic which confines j the fullness. This is finished with a daintj' ribbon rosette. Tho materiah used are nainsook, satin finished bat- i isle, Jnpnneso silk, liberty satin and j mcssnliuo silk. Then thero is a com- t bination of whito corsot cover and silk j bookers. For those who prefer the . bookers without the corset covor there ! aro modols in silk and satin not only in black, whito and delicate colorings. I but in odd shades such as London smoke I and taupe. Effective combinations for theso garments are a soft black messa-! messa-! lino lined with pale shell pink albatross aud trimmod with pink ribbons. "Whito, too, lined with pink is exceedingly dainty, aud for thoso who feel tho cold a tine" all wool flannel should lino knickers knick-ers of heavy whito China silk. Given a correct corset and one of tho new sheathbockers there can bo no question about the success of tho directoire. |