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Show A. "! j TfsARIS. March 19. On Easier it j"V fjj Jp Sunday the services in the 'l.jVl i magnlllcent Russian church near tho Arc de Trlomphc will f 3d( be particularly beautiful and If' "I1 Impressive. The many subjects of the ; ! A czar here in Paris, togelher with Parl- J ; j n slan sympathizers of that country, will 13 ffi overl,owInGr this superb edltlco 1 fN I ani listen to the wonderful choir of j LjJ 1 deep, male voices whose chanting and H A PARISIAN ADAPTATION OF THE KIMONO. V4HI Intoning have made these services fa- ; t jHf mous. JH j Whatever opinion one may have about Russia as a country, her women H of birth and culture are conceded to be H the most versatile, fascinating and well B dressed inondalnes In the world, barring fiS ' the Americans, and the Parisian ate-fiBi ate-fiBi Z-18 are bU3r fashioning ravishing new niWil ' Kjiring toilets to heighten their charms yvWs and those of tho women of all climes. oiK y The spring .races are on at Auteuil, ind the merest suggestion of seasonable TOfB i Warmth would have brought out all tho ''ftlfc tavfehs iaUoLa deslxned for this suortx occasion. As It was, only the spring hat made its bow to society. The success suc-cess of the 1S30 styles on the Riviera has made them beyond a doubt the modlstlc metier of spring and summer fashions. In the hands of the Inexperienced Inexpe-rienced worker these styles, which are fussy and often overelaborate, become decidedly mussy and loose all their smartness. Tho only way to solve the problem is to modify and to make sen sible compromises to bring the paBt and present era In touch. The prospect beforo us Is of sleeves frilled from shoulder to wrist and skirts ruflled almost al-most up to the waist, the width around being better Imagined than described. Still a graceful and artistic silhouette will always be preserved. Dress of today is one mass of detail, and the dlfilculty of making the lay mind take In sclcntlllc detail Its not easy, as these "considerable trifles" must be seen, and seen In relation to the rest of the garment, lo be under-Stood. under-Stood. Loose, flowirur lines marie the cotton frocks of thin year, and they havo the quaint, old tlmy air without a hint of stiffness. To spell success a gown with these lines must bo perfectly cut, as no amount of trimming will cover n badly fitting gown or bring It up to smartness. A touch of bygone times is revived on thin frocks with bands of narrow tucks inset in the flowing 1S30 sklrL P.uilles three and four in number are also put on' one above the other with a space between. The shops are displaying lovely dress lengths in spotted muslin, voile and grenadine, milled, tucked and lace trimmed In fact, all ready for tho dressmaker's hands. A clever amateur might easily convert this material into a charming dress by merely running up about three yards In a seam In the back. In this way a skirt needs only lo be disposed in becoming fashion around the waist to make It very attractive and up to date. The bodice could be treated bebe style, simply gathered nnd slightly bloused over a celnture of silk or panne, and the sleeves evolved out of a plain material matching the ground fubric. There will be a craze for white muslin, mus-lin, plain nnd fancy, this, season, and also for dainty flowered gauzes, particularly partic-ularly those of the pompadour period. Then, again, there is a return to the old world brocades made with a plaited plait-ed skirt and gathered bodice softened with a fichu of plaited munlln or chiffon. chif-fon. Such a frock requires no lining. Tho unllned gown is now de rlgueur both for day and for evening wear; consequently the summer underskirt will be a matter of utmost importance. It will be composed of taffeta, satin or brocade, frilled, plaited and tucked and trimmed with lace ruches and great festoona of colored ribbons. The well dressed mondalne will also possess a few skirts of "finest embroidered and tucked batiste showing elaborate hand stltchery. The nprlng shades are all delicate nuances made up of a mingling of the stronger tones with which we are all familiar. Tho art of combining these exquisite harmonies haa grown lo a very pinnacle of perfection. The eye Is becoming so cunning In detecting subtlety sub-tlety that these delightfully suggestive touches which make or mar a gowiure-qulre gowiure-qulre careful treatment. Just what I mean Is well Illustrated in a curious dove gray toilet one of the pale gradations grada-tions of tho erstwhile Inupe trimmed In early Victorian fashion with lines of silk passementerie cord and bluish silver sil-ver galloon turned in Vandykes several inches above the hem. The blousee little lit-tle corsage Is relieved by touches of old green introduced in the form of medallions medal-lions down the front, on the bretellea and on tho deep, turned back cuffs. Pavlslennes are wearing this .spring it great deal of black relieved . by just a suspicion of strong color, and there la a decided feeling for a navy blue which is almost black. Some especially nt-traclive nt-traclive costumes of the latter boasting the three tiered skirt aurmountpd by loose, banded boleros are trimmed elaborately elab-orately with a curious narrow llk trimming, half braid, half fringe, over which the tailors are enthusing. Apropos Apro-pos of the three tiered skirt, I find it Imnosslblc to cenerillsc m to whom 1 will suit. One's ilrst inclination Is to Jump to the conclusion that only the . tall woman can wear thia triple alliance. alli-ance. Upon Investigation It has been, found that the well set up short woman not the dumpy sort manages to carry car-ry off thl3 trfplc Jupe with success. Wlicn worn by a petite mondainc a trained back would be preferable, and the hem of each volant should be accentuated ac-centuated with braid. Un the season s new gowns uu trimming trim-ming Is applied horizontally, and every- J thing in the nature of finish 13 put on aoross, not up and down. A smart finish fin-ish is to be found in cording which Is used in all degrees of thickness from the size of the thumb to barely a lwlr line. To be effective this cord must be supple and never stiff or hard In appearance. ap-pearance. Small buttons, covered In a number of Instances with the gown ma- ' I ffi : BE VIVED MODES-IN" EVENINa. GOWNS A ''-' - turioj, arc a fancy or the moment. H They arc uued In sequence and are lo be scon outlining wu.Istcoa.to, cuffs and revcrs. H The short cape of highwayman styla Is completely vetoed in exclusive, mo-dlstlc mo-dlstlc circle:). In fact, this becoming garment haa beon absorbed for the tlmo in the ubiquitous long shoulder em- H plccement, and the mystery as to wliero( IH the sleeve begins dally grows deeper. - IH Although the Easter bonnctjs a stock J joke of the comic papers in the Rue del H la Pair, it is no Joke in mjdarae's J stock of models, for she has heaps of( , J dainty headgear suitable for all kinds' i J of feasts and festivals? Spring mllli- J ncry may be divided into two classes L J the chic and the picturesque. The real- jf ly picturesque hats have lace brims, and a fall of lace shades the hat all round. . This "fall" Is a splendid liiven- tion for the ooulist, as it will make al- most any woman cross eyed after . a season's wear. Exaggerated lace dra-pery dra-pery at the back of the hat is not seen in the bost houses. Gainsborough and empire types have long, trailing plumes curling over and under the brim, or cls9 jH flowers In sprays arc vised to lengthen the appearance of the bat behind. A shepherdess straw hat trimmed with a band of small rosos is a pretty frama for a young face. The 1S30 bonnet with strings is also worn. Thi3 i3 a dainty model which never really goes out of fashion. A new hat to wear with the tailor made is a coronet shapo of rough straw, the turned up brim near-est near-est the face entirely covered with flow-ers. flow-ers. Leghorn will again be a favorite, and a practical specimen for outlnr? w ear Is of white or buff canvas or sail-cloth sail-cloth with an extra brim of black near the face. This hat la usually in tha IH Breton sailor shape. One of the Parisians' latest amuse-ments amuse-ments In the way of dressing up wo are incurably childless these days Is a jH dinner followed by a danae, at which the women fix their hair In some old time fashion, and the men do tha same or, if they are not quite brava enough, they "wear their own hair" and, to escape the dreariness of siinplo evening dress, don hunt or court coats 1 and kueo breeches. Many of the mod- j ernized old gowns are lovely for affairs of thin kind. Ivory mousseline de solo jH made with a full skirt and trimmed with insertions of white lace banded wjth tiny black lace ruchlng, and the M'nrlo Antoinette fichu similarly orna- " mented and fastened with a quaint ro- ' settc would be a most appropriate tol- ( let. The occidental mind is running I more nnd more lo Japanese sartorial ideas. The latest suggestion Is a novel tea gown with a Japanese tendency car- ried out in chiffon nnd oriental cm-broideries. cm-broideries. CATHERINE TALBOT. |