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Show LviI Fads a" Fashions of Paris ffjj iTpARIS, March 2G. Portrait jEJp painting by electric llRht Is 'h' !F ll,e i!arisIan case of the mo- ' mem. A well known artist has evolved the Idea that the picture of a woman In ball costume to be really effective must be painted in the llpht under which it is seen. This artist very plausibly arrrucs that the loveliest tints in a Rem of a pown look cold and uninteresting in the broad Ujtudio light of day. The skin of army, face and neck also taken on a different ' coloring under the electric llghL There fore he has had the brilliant thought of electric light painting. Society has taken up this portrait fad with the usual usu-al vim and enthusiasm it accords novelty nov-elty in whatever guise it presents itself. it-self. Consequently women who never wished to have their portraits taken In evening: dress before arc now besieging- the studio of the art inventor and imploring this mighty genius to "do" them cn grundc toilette under electric The summer girl of 1904 will be living liv-ing pioture which will rival mndamc in the most charming electric, light portrait por-trait ever made. Old Sol will be her torchbeorer, and an old world garden fragrant with double roses, Hwcct William Wil-liam and marjoram will furnish Miss Simplicity's background, for she, the 1901 summer girl. Is to masquerade as Dolly Varden, that vivacious HtMc her-f her-f olnc of Dickens which even Crulkohank and his folio wors in their caricatures could not make us think anything but charming. The twentieth century Dolly Dol-ly will not wear her grandmother's historic his-toric mob cap, but will doh instead the daintiest, most becoming of lingerie hats created from muslin or mull, which will frame her pretty face In soft, undulating frills. And her gown will be a dream of rose strewn muslin flounced to the knee, the little short waist being outlined by a fichu. This last adornment gives a Louis link connecting con-necting the old with the Dolly dress of the present. Not the le.ast altractlvo part of the Dolly costume Is the parasol of plain mull harmonising with the gown color scheme and alluringly becoming when lined with deep frills of chiffon and held 4 coquettishly over the little lady's head. Her bag of Louis brocade must not be forgotten, nor the handsome sash, the latter perhaps an anachronism, but an accessory demanded by the dress of the present. This new old mode Is indeed charming, charm-ing, arid the flowered muslins arc responsible re-sponsible for the Dolly Varden styles nov In vogue which will froufrou through the summer fashions of tills year. There Is a hint in very authoritative vu"A-'iuarters of the panier, which at any f moment is likely to materialize in some of the stately dinner gowns built on Georgian lines, with their trains lifted slightly at the sides in panier effect. Apropos of dinners, one nowadays thinks twice before accepting an invitation invi-tation to a small home feast which means "bridge" as a postprandial amusement. This little diversion Indulged In-dulged In as It now Is probably 10 or 20 louis a night Is .a,ut to be a risky business rather than a social pleasure unless one Is fortunately above the sordid sor-did thought of lucre. Ancnt gowns, the linen dress promises to bo as popular this 3ummcr as It has tutnus are made up of real or 'imitation Irislr or guipure lncc held together with bunds of linen. Those frocks are extremely ex-tremely fetching. The linen gown Is usually spoken of us simple, a very misleading mis-leading term, as the simplicity is reg- great coultiriere whether tucks would figure prominently on his most exclusive exclu-sive creations In all fabrics. The answer an-swer came oulekly, "Most emphatically emphatical-ly yes." And I was told that the cross-way cross-way fold, which la a simulated tuck, the full skirt lends itself moat rcudily. Motif3 of laco aro often 'applied between be-tween the bands, and in the hands of an artist who undernUtnds his acore the scheme Is beautiful; but stuck on with no particular method' they arc simply grotesque. Quite delightful are the old fashioned embroideries used on queer taffeta trimmings in pastel shades. A stunning stun-ning cloth frock In palest pastel pink wjiich Is a color very much to the fore here In Purls Ik lovely with a full, plaited skirt trimmed up the center with a pano! of this old fashioned embroidery, em-broidery, which also forms a yoke piece over the shoulders. Thl3 particular embroidery was done In sott pastel pinks and blues and further adorned with some quaint braidings and shaded pink roaes In a raised design. The neck and Inner, sleeves were finished with rows of Valenciennes lace on- finely plaited cream batiste. This costume was a beautiful exumple of a pastel cloth frock confined to the palest colorings. col-orings. With It was worn ;t hat carrying car-rying out tho name subdued tints. Many really well dressed women make the mistake of adopting a black hit as the suitable accompaniment of the pastel frock,- a contrast which Is anything but artistic. ' Trimmings pJay been for the past few seasons. Tucks i are taking the place of embroideries on the smartest Unco frocks, which are mostly In white. A deep hem around, the bottom of the skirt, above which aro placed a wide band of heavy lace and a series of tucks, is the newest trimming for the linen skirL This trimming is repeated on the waist. The waist and skirt development Is considered belter form than the coat and Jupc. r- Many of the colored linen frocks have narrow tucks quite to the knee and a waist of mull made very full, over which are brctelles of linen running up from the waist and widening into a cape over the shoulders very much on the order of that useful and dainty article ar-ticle a. waitress' apron. Whole cos- PARISIAN HATS AND GOWNS FOR WARM WEATHER WEAR. ulaled by the rPrrgrLh of the skirt, which transforms it into a gown suitable for the golf links or for an afternoon reception. re-ception. , I ventured the other day to ask a would be another favorite of la mode frequently outlined with a loosely woven wov-en braid wavy in pattern. Indeed, bands let in to skirts of lace and ribbon rib-bon seem to be the adornment to which such an important part in the season's gowns as to make of the material itself it-self merely a flimsy sort of background, and the really "worth while" varieties are so expensive as to be beyond the moderate purse. I 'would urge every' woman who cannot have trimmings of the best to leave them severely alone. Any trimming with a tinsel effect Jo tawdry und may be denounced at once as bad form. "When forced to be economical eco-nomical It Is much better to stick to silk cords, liat silk braids and the rougher mliltury weaves, and even these have a discouraging fashion of mounting up Into quite ambltlouo figures. fig-ures. While upon trimming thoughts intent let me tell you that Russian cross stitch patterns come in the new rib-bone, rib-bone, and the. effect of this used as vest, collar and cuffs on a plain dress Is very good. A cavalry yellow is used very successfully as a cording on black and white gowns. For tailor ,mades brown, navy blue and scarlet, form tho lending colors, and bright shndes of periwinkle and electric elec-tric blue have given placo In some instances in-stances to the navy blue, but for the coat and skirt the marine shade will always ho de rlgucur. These gowns are simply fashioned, and nothiny In the way of contrast Is used except white with a mixture of gold and silver. Paquln ha3 Just turned out a delightful delight-ful costume in brown rough faoed clolh, the skirt arranged In largo plaits aOOUl iWO JI1CI1CS DCIOW ItC WiUil, JUSL clearing tho ground all round. The little lit-tle bolero coat ends above the waist, showiifg a blouse of finely plaited crepe dc chine of a brighter shade of brown and a belt of kid to match. This smart bolero Is edged with flat, brown silk braid and a kilting of taffota. The high collar of the shirt is finished with a hemstitched cravat, and ths bolero is tied with a brown crape scarf having knotted fringe on the ends. The chic little hat, worn tilted over the face, is made of two shades of brown straw, with clusters of green leaves and bovn of straw at the back. Boots of brown and suede gloves of the same color complete this extremely neat tollot. The same house of Paquln also show-! show-! ed a dainty house gown of taffeta with lucked skirt and corsage of lace and soft ribbon bows and bouillonncs of taffeta. In all Ihe say wealth of color one Is apt to overlook the mourning frock. A jiw.jiiu K.iu ijuu.uui.ui cusiumc uc ueuil I was of soft black cashmere, the greater part of the bodice and front panel on the skirt made of crape, the same material ma-terial being used for a deep band which finished the skirt at the sides and tsm back. A chapcau for state occasions is the light afTalr created from the thinnest of fabrics tulle, lacc'and sometimes inlets in-lets of straw. The lingerie hats In embroideries and black and white lace arc features of new millinery. Even the straw sailors and useful hats are of transparent effects, often a mingling of two contrasting shades and different kinds of braids. A new leghorn hat is fancifully turned up at one side and mounted on a bandeau of soft, twisted white ribbon and black velvet, the same combination making the large bow where the hat turns at tho side. Black and white feathers curl over the buck of the hat. The popular sailor comes In a different guise this season, rolled high in the back and trimmed over the shallow crown. The present fashions In their entirety cannot be worn by everybody, but with modifications are quite within the reach of tall, short, thin or stout. A piece of advice given not long ago by an old lady "who knew the world well was, "Hold yourself up. my clear, and look as though you were somebody, and it doesn't mako any difference whether your frock Is 1S30 or 100 J." I am inclined to agree with her. CATHERINE TALBOT. |