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Show fit Plaids No Longer Scotch but French In1 f tIlQ most lntereBtln de ll , ) vcloPment3 of modern design . , ' is the subtlety with which plaids have been incorporated into Its 4' ' Onco upon a time plaids wcro plaids and no bones were mado about it. Con- f sequently the brilliant and startling 1, woollens wcro relegated to the chil- dren's wardrobe or to the realm of Now plaids have become a motif in design which may be carried out In ? bead or silk embroidery and Is as likely to bo used In the. decoration of chiffon and other silken fabrics as it is in the cheerful and childish ginghams Thcro jirobably never was a woman of any age who did not discover In herself her-self a yeaminp for plaids and a wish that she wer.c still young and slim enough to wear them. There is an agreeably dashing and romantically - jaunty feeling about tho wearing of tho tartan which makes a strong ap-4 ap-4 peal to her. and If sho cannot qulto . bring herself to the donning of a maj- niflcent clan plaid she can at least " gratify herself In these days with one 'Zf- of the many charming and harmo- ... nious adaptations which acknowledge a Highland ancestry. V ' Plalda French, Not Scotch. Y'c ' In r-Eard to tho woven fabrics, the new K- plaids aro far removed from the Scotch Weaves and assembling of colors with which we arc all familiar. They aro French or nothing and are enthusias tically sponsored by tho Paris makers, i, . . Cray s rcstfuljy combined with one or two lovely and slightly degraded colors I after tho satisfying manner of ancient Egypt. ' The neutral background of gray Is ',. blocked oft with peacock blue, henna, brick fed or yellow, and gray or bolge may ho patterned with Indian red, cream " and black, a marvellous use of primitive tones. Delge Is plalded with prune, and ; cucalyptUR greon with cream, while two , shades of dull blue aro separated by ; narrow lines of henna, Thoro are more , ) subdued plaids than these, and others , considerably brighter which riot In the rIeh and velvety colors of tho pansy if- betJ; there are even lapses Into the plaid & ot plalde, with Its dark blue and groen I J ' . Ground marked off In yellow, black and K white with a narrow line of red. p' Callot has made a striking capo of this if M", P'a'd 1" a heavy ollk. lined with a plain i V&'-m dar,k srcc" rt ln fashfoned with an im- I metis puffy collar and two flounces, 1 both edged with silk and wool fringe. 1 A rather fantastic Trench suit has been mi shown. In which plaids of three different sizes are used, all happily of the same color. Tho wldestplatd is used for tho lower section of tho two tiered eklrt. tho middlo shed plaid for the upper section, and the jacket Is of a still smaller version ver-sion of the same plaid, all made up diagonally and with an effect which Is not no unpleaslng as might bo Imagined by those who can remember tho long loved and lately lost kaleidoscope. Ii. this country one hook 11 few suits developed entirely in plaids, which are not unattractivo on tho right woman, and rightly worn, but they are more suitable suit-able for the snorts outfit than for the street. In this increasingly Important department ot dress, plaids are at their best in capes, -oats and the all but universal uni-versal plaid aklrt, which appears to grow more lovely an J varied every day. JWT B Cartridge Slllc. TVool jersey la one of the most doslrablc fabrics for the gathered or plaited plaid sports skirt, and It Is expected that later the cartridge Bilk which was left on tho hands of tho War Department at tho signing of the armistice and which Is bIng dyed and utilized most successfully for dress purposes, will come Into Its own as a sporta fabric, a uso to which It Is especially adapted. In this Interesting silk there Is an excellent cholco of plaids among the many designs and plain colors .With the plaid skirla, whether thoy are worn on tho golf courso or tho street, the solid color blouse or coat, repeating either the moat conspicuous or the most neutral tone of tho plaid. Is a foregone conclusion. With tho suit coat, tho trimming trim-ming accessories, pocket flaps, scarf collar col-lar or rovers ,rj usually of the plaid. By contrast to this rule of plain above and plaid below, plaid taffeta blouses of an adorable crlspncac and smartness havo been provided to add a gay touch to tho plain navy blue gabardine suit. Serge Is omoroldered In raised lines in a plalded pattern, either In color or ln black, and this decoration Is applied to both suits, coats and frocks. A almplo Borgotta frock may be plalded all over diagonally with linos of beads. Tho squares aro larso, tho lines fragile and the color combinations Infinite. Foulards aro blocked off In large scuares. with a solid line and a conventional con-ventional motif Is planted In tho middlo of each square. Tho frock ln tho sketch Hhows a silk of this sort In bolgo and navy blue, cut out to show a front panol of laco. Many lovely cottons, besides our old friend gingham, aro treated to a decoration deco-ration of plaid design, and such delicate fabrics as voile nro patterned In heavy niiKOd lines resembling embroldcrv. Certain fashion authorities profess to jec a return to Victorian modes In the recrudescence of plaids and stripes. |