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Show I Woman's World ' 1 ! - - j THE SONG OF THE SLEEVE. j 'W I iiit a changeable thin'is a ylopve' j Ami why it it tho daughters of Eve 'anuut clinp to mo. style , For a rational while. Or to some sort of cut do not cleave M dauoniolypos make report . That our grandmothers' sleeves were worn short; And if snow fell apace; , . ' They would don milt of lace!) V Or to gossamer shawls would resort. l.nur on, there developed a style "When a Rirl in her sleeve could not smilo, I For it fitted to tight; And the day seemed like night. With her arms fast asleep all the while. ;t. of course, reaction came won; A' id the sleeve-top became a full moon, "Which a touch might destroy Hence the maidens grew coy And the pallants bewailed that balloon. In ihe dropsical mode of today, Thi-n- is hope, close at hand (so to say), I For the sleeve.- though not trig, I Is ufli( iently big 1 To be used as a iocket Hooray! I Anna Mathewson in Century Home. , RECIPES. To Remove Soot Marks. "When soot falls upon the carpet or I rus never attempt to sweep it up at once, for the result is sure to be a I iistiKuriiiR mark. Cover it thickly with i.i.-Hy dried salt, which will enable you I io sweep it up cleanly so that not the I slightest stain or smear will be left. j To Make Limewater. j I Put two ounces of freshly prepared I sl.ked- lime into a stoppered jar. Add I gallon of cold water, shake thor- oiiRhly. strain off carefully to keep free I fiom sediment. Bottle and use aB re- j quired. I Enmeiing For Women. I Knameling is one of the most inter- I j esting of the present-day revivals, and I it possesses an especial degree of in- I iciest for the woman of artistic turn J of mind. ' because it presents such a I comprehensive and varied field for the I display of her talents. I Clean Black Lace. To clean black lace wipe off all dust i with a cambric handkerchief and then pin out the face on a board, carefully inserting; a pin in each of the points Sponge over the lace with cold tea and ;!i -n leave it till perfectly dry. When 1 ihe pins are removed the lace will look 1 -fresh and new, far better than if it had been ironed. Lard For Cramps. A pi-e? of lard the size of an egg creamed with sugar and divided into three 'parts and tak?n at intervals of "0 minutes will relieve any attack of . cramps that has not progressed to the !' fatal point. I To Make Coffee Cake, The delicious kaffee guchen of Ger- ; man origin and served lure as coffee cake or cinnamon buns may be made j . -. at home still better. The following ! directions are taken from What to I Eat: Use a quart of fiour. a pint of i milk and one-half cake of compressed yeast set in a sponge at night. In the morning add to this two eggs well I beaten, one-half cup of butter, one-I one-I fourth cup of sugar and another half I pint of flour. Thw ingredients must ie well stirred together before adding them to the sponge Knead the mix-t mix-t tine for 1.1 minutes, put in shallow, 1 luntertd pans and let it rise; then brush over the surface of the dough i with egg mixed with a little milk and then sprinkle thickly with cinnamon ami powdered sugar. Bake in a slow oven half an hour or longer is hot suffi-ci. suffi-ci. ntlj-, browned, i I LONGING FOR THE TOWN. 1 Evnry now and then a country girl. flisa turned with the monotony of rural ru-ral existence, writes to a city friend and says: "1 am tired of Arcadia and want to i mne to earn my living in the city. Ciii you secure me an opportunity?" What a deceptive word that "oppor- 1 Ui.iity" is! Once in every man's or woman's life, chance opens the door to some kind of prosperity or success; but in nine hundred and -ninety-nine cas-eH out of every thousand, opportunity oppor-tunity is the bloomy fruit of previous endeavor. It is the result of struggles. , s'-lf-demal. long years of association.; I'.itient delving and digging and even ! ' then like Dead Sfa apples it fomf- j limes- turns to ashes on the lips. To j imagine that the only thing required i is to come in from the country, get I a situation and then happiness will follow, is one of the sad and prevalent preva-lent notions, not only of country girls, out also of tuntry boys. Tlv. se lat- i trT. however, can more easily shift f"i" themselves. "Wi'.h girls it is dif- f'-'ejil. I'n st of all, Jhe salary paid to wo-' wo-' is, oven at the best, inadequate i" support them in the iy with half ie comfort they enjoyed in the coun- ' '"' The wages they earn means a -;:p boarding" house, a wretched room. ' scanty wardrobe, hard work, little su.ishine and generally unpleasant as-3 as-3 sooiyiinns. if the young woman has t lies. M v cl-.n i!l oil I ':- the temptatioiiK cpread by city v She will find the forces of the "iM. the flesh and th? devil con-l con-l Ti'img against her. And if (the win j auMinst all these disadvantages, what I !s ),; 'success"? Is it any better or J )! as.n:tT or lovelier than the dafied ; j i' 'rnlows. th waving: groves, the sun-I sun-I ' y brook of her country home? Xo. j j If the rural maid lakes counsel of wis- i I she will stay where she is, where j I !; lias the influence of her family friends, whfre she has a stand-' stand-' - of her own and is a factor In the i- nnainity. It is better to dream with '"'ure than toil the slave of Flu t us. u -t- i u Watchman. IN CATHOLIC IRELAND Titc Simple and Unaffected Piety of the People. i l eaders of the CJiasgow Observer 1,ring favored nowadays with a worthy serie? of articles bearing a-Mml title. 'A Convert's First In ni-essions." More interesting and a ialie matter lhan Is furnished by l-; particular convert's experien-es on .'"' .ing the Church we have 'not met 'v "i in a long time. In the latest ;s-of the Observer the writer, dis-1 dis-1 sinc the spontaneity and natuml-1 natuml-1 " ''-"s ..f 'atholic piety, illustrates his l"':'.t by many a graphic picture, others the-following; ' 1 o. to Ireland (and a more Catholic ' does not exist on the face of the e-i-nht. and there you see how simple naturally the people practice re-;t:ii,n. re-;t:ii,n. There i? an easy, unconven-1 unconven-1 f"' ;n I style about the whole thing v'ltioh is truly edifying. Not one morn-Il:T. morn-Il:T. but seven mornings in the week, !ie;)Pr jn rrow(je(i cities or quiet vi!iageHj the church bells summon the faithful to Mass and Holy Communion not after an ample breakfast of ham 8''d eggs (according to the principle ef that typical Presbyterian. Dr. Uuth-vl" Uuth-vl" p irridge first and then prayer')but ,vith an unbroken fast, at 4 or 5 or 6 , I a- "J , when Protestants ere enoring In t ! their beds. Cheerfully the people re- h'I"'tid. and Scotch' folk would be as-t"n:),id as-t"n:),id if they beheld the numbers morning after morning, without any obligation, but purely out of devotion, devo-tion, begin the day with Jesus Christ in tho Blessed Sacrament. At middav the Angelus bell peals forth through the streets and hills and valleys. In the afternoon there is a constant stream of visitors to the Blessed Sacrament, Sac-rament, some remaining for long periods pe-riods of time, so sweet they find it to be in the presence of their Savior. "At the corner of almost every street a little shrine is fixed, from which some holy face looks down upon you as you pass; on the country roads you suddenly find yourself kneeling beside a wayside crucifix on a shrine" of Our Blessed Lady; in the fields and on the hillsides you hear the pious 'workers singing .their sweet and simple hymns to Mary, and even the little children run up and take your hand and beg a holy picture or a rosary in a way that is not to be resisted. "These are but samples to show how natural and simple and unaffected Catholics are in practicing their religion. re-ligion. I am not copying this from a guidebook, but writing what I know and have seen myself. They do not put on long faces and a special black suit and look paternally solemn on one day out of seven. They live in constant con-stant remembrance of their religion; and by ever recurring fast and festival, by rosaries, scapulars. crucifixes, medals and the Agnus Dei. it is kept .before their minds and eyes." If fhe best of Catholics to the manner born were to be thrust into the dark- ! ness and barrenness of Protestantism or unbelief for a brief period they would love their religion more than they do, ! be more faithful in practicing it and more zealous for its propagation. "We hope that "A Convert's First Impressions" Impres-sions" will be republished in book form for the good that they are calculated calcu-lated to do among Protestants, as well as Catholics, for whose benefit they! were primarily intended. Ave Maria. I FASHIONABLE LIFE VERSUS MOTHERHOOD. , It is surprising to hear that there seems to be a prevailing idea that participation par-ticipation in tha social functions of a large city unfits a woman for the apotheosis of her career, motherhood. It is strange, indeed, that women should need defence against the charge of being neglectful and indifferent mothers, and a "pity 'tis, 'tis true." It is an indisputable fact that there are endless examples of the mothers of large families who are as lacking in the maternal instinct as the seed pods of the vegetable, kingdom, but that these women are recruited almost exclusively ex-clusively from the ranks of fashionable women is a slander that .cannot be too strongly refuted. There is absolutely no reason why sharing in the pleat ures of social life is incompatible with devotion in the domestic do-mestic circle. Mothers, like poets, are born, not made. The divine instinct which is the crown of womanhood may be stronger and is certainly as frequent in the woman whose life is passed in a whirl of social duties, as in her humbler sister to whom a child comes so sadly often, as an added burden, unwelcomed and unloved in the sordid rush for bare existence. ex-istence. It i impossible to generalize, nor should the one class be held up as monsters of iniquity because they en-Joy en-Joy the privileges of their station in life, any more than the poor soul who turna her babies over to the day nursery nurs-ery to be cared for while she works to provide their daily bread, be' branded as a heartless and neglected clod. It is mental, not physical, this lovely, transcendent and absorbing passion, I and it is a gift granted to some women like the gift of musical talent, or the power to express noble thoughts in beautiful words, or the grace of physi- 1 cal beauty, something wholly and en- tirely beyond the control of its possessor posses-sor and quite as often bestowed on the woman in the palace as the one in the humble cottage, notwithstanding the " great , misapprehension so widely existing ex-isting on this subject. ; While her babies are little and the nursery candidates are arriving as fast as God sends them., no woman, be she queen or peasant, has much time to spare from the duties and pleasures of attendance on ner cnuaren, out as they grow older and require less- of her personal per-sonal attention, new duties . to her children present themselves as insistent in their demands as were those of the earlier days, when they consisted merely of seeing that they were well fed. well warmed, well groomed little animals. It is as her children grow older that a woman's growth, menially, must keep pace with that of the active young minds about her; she must broaden her social horizon, keep in touch with the world and abreast of events in the every-day turmoil about her. Her boys must be trained to the responsibilities for which they are destined; she must enter" heart and soul into their sports and games as well- as into their studies and perplexities,-and to her daughters she must be always the chosen confidante. About a fashionable woman's social functions there shines as fierce a light, as beats about a throne, and it is too generally believed that in order to have time for her toilets, her amusements, ; her bridge, she considers a perfunctory good-night kiss, or a flying weekly visit t ) hor nursery the sum total of her , duty to her God-given charges. This j is the impression given by the scandal-jr.ongering scandal-jr.ongering public prints that penetrate into quiet homes and distant cities, where any wild tale, however improbable, improb-able, of the iniquitous society woman is nenevea. It is sadly, to be deplored for its effect on a large class of weaklings who would follow over hot ploughshares if lead b3 some titled or "smart" woman, and they do not remember that there is no"chiel arnang them takin' notes." during the hours spent exclusively ' in her children's society; of long nights in contagion stricken rooms, of the anxious anxi-ous moments of fear and dread when she sees her boys attaining perfection in manly- sports at the risk of their precious necks, or when with maternal prescience she pers into the dark vista of the future and wonders what it holds for her blessed girls. Motherhood is. in all instances, synonymous with responsibility, but I w ho among us would exchange our dear cares for a childless freedom? Mrs. George Jay Gould in Club Woman. AN ENEMY TO BEAUTY. The greatest enemy to beauty is tern per. The woman with a bad temper is by" no means the worst woman in the w'orld. She often haf a very, kind heart and a very strict conscience. Her temper itself sometimes lets so many of her c-vil thoughts out through her tongue that her nature is. after all. quite sweet and kind. lJut nevertheless the fever of temper that burns within her doer its work on her constitution, Jt shows itself, too, in the deep wrinkles wrin-kles just above her nose, the long lines at the side of her mouth and in the drooping mouth itself. The woman who is. always nursing her wrongs, w j-ongp herself more than anybody else could have wronged her. The evil, bitter thoughts within her shut out the bright ones that might come and make her bad company. But, worse still, they have a direct physical effect upon her system. Nothing ean bo ruin one's digestion as flying into a tantrum at the dinner table. The food taken in will not assimilate, and the appetite is lost. The heart is affected and the circulation is retarded. The nerves are o wrought up by a constant series of tantrums that the woman with a temper tem-per is invariably a thin, anaemic little thing. The best way to cure bad temper tem-per is firs to convince yourself that you are not really being wronged. Once you have got in tune with the world "and feel quite certain that the universe is better ordered than you could order j it you will cease expecting to reform the. rest of your fellow men and thus be saved lots of disappointment. If you can cure your temper in no other way. simply run and glance in the looking class while you are in the midst of it. That should cure you. Pittsburg Observer. S THE LIGHT BEYOND. As sure as the dy follow? night, So sorrow is followed by joy: Then ever keep looking for light And let not your trials annoy: Look on for the light just geyon Where night seems to turn into day As sunlight is Hooding your souls And driving life's shadows away. Martha Shepard Lipincott in Club Woman. ART AND SAJMITY IN DRESS. II. The General Principles Which Should Guide in Art of Dress. Before proceeding to consider the question of costume, the woman who would understand her problem must have certain general principles of the subject firmly grounded in her mind. 1. That the age has passed forever when a woman's form may be used simply as a lay figure upon which to pile creations as grotesque as the human hu-man imagination may create. The idle coquettes of a French court, without education, with undeveloped minds, with little knowledge of the real world, without interest in affairs other than the gossip of the court, might well devote de-vote their hours each to seeing how she might create more grotesquely and more-extravagently than here neighbor. neigh-bor. But such conditions no longer exist. The woman of the twentieth century, for whom this periodical is edited, is one of intelligence, w ho seeks to Bring herself in touch with all that is most important in life. In designing design-ing her dress, she has in mind to present pre-sent the most charming and agreeable appearance, at the same time conform-iiig conform-iiig to the laws of health, which, after all, are requisites if beauty is to be preserved. 2. The artistic world of today understands under-stands perfectly well what is beautiful and what is merely absurd. 3. Both men and women are comprehending com-prehending each year more clearly those things in costume which are useful use-ful and necessary to health. 4. It should be perfectly well understood under-stood that with each year costume will conform more and more closely to those lines which are most artistic and useful. use-ful. 5. In proportion as a woman is clever and in possession of good taste, she will modify the existing fashions to suit the requirements of her own style. She will refuse to adopt those things in the mod-rs which are inartistic and bizarre. 6. In walking costumes, the young woman possessing savoir fa ire will at all times have regard for the useful and the simple, formed upon graceful lines. Dirt will be abhorrent to her. The permitting of a skirt to sweep up the filth of the street will be a crime equally against health and against good taste. .7 In dressing her hair, the woman of taste will determine the lines which nature indicates as becoming her style of face and growth and color of hair. This will be reached by patient experiment. ex-periment. Having- arrived at the proper prop-er lines, she will never thereafter very far de-Dart from them. " j R. Every woman must decide for her- i self this question: Do I prefer to look well, or to anpfar in the preaviling j modes regardless of grace and beauty of outline? 9. Under the head aristic. may be laid down the further general prin- ciple: That the more nearly a costume conforms to the line of the figure the more perfect will be it contour. Take, for instance, the prevailing inote in clpf-ves dfpn and nendant at the wrist, conveying in every outline the idea of slovenliness and careless construction. It is a very good copy of a camel's knee, distorted, ugly, out of place suelv an inconceivable creation ( as an artist would design at the close of a drunken orgy. whm. in a spirit of bravado, he might seize a sleeve representing one of the old time abortions abor-tions and turn it upside down with the exclamation: "I wonder if the world of fashion will stand for that?" That such a thing could be impressed upon the public at all shows the power of those inherited tendencies which our American women are but in a measure meas-ure now 'escaping. This sleeve "must have met with the protest of every modiste of true artistic instinct of every woman whose natural refinement revolts at distortion. Should dress be to a woman of high intelligence a matter of earnest study? Unquestionably, she will do littl? without with-out both study and persistent effort, and she owes -to the world that she! shall present charm of manner, beauty j of costume, the utmost loveliness of j face. featureand figure. During the "last ten years" there has j beeen rapid growth of good judgment in relation to dress. It will be noted . that certain styles which conform to : the more graceful lines of the figure ; maintain a sort of vogue; that designers, design-ers, intent unon creatine- a fnmnlete ' change looking to the more rapid dis- ! placement of fashion, are less success- I ful. If temporarily dispossed, that j which is useful and graceful soon re- ! turns. One season there ii a cry that j there will be no more shirt waists; t the next, that the clinging skirt, sill- j ing in graceful folds, is to be dis-. placed by flounces, or hoops, or what i "ot- . . But it will be observed that ev-Vy effort of this kind is followed bv a reaction in favor of that which con- forms to what is best in art. The day of the absurd hoop skirt is gone for- I ever. The day o overloading gowns I with ornament is rapidly disappearing. I The evening gown itself tends more and more to simplicity of outline. I An in the world of ready made cloth- ' 'ing those who manufacture are com- j ing to note this growth in the direction direc-tion of w hat is true upon the part of j even the least knowing, of womcn i Year by year, the firms who know their i business be.st are choosing simpler lines, less of elaboration, less of ornament,' i and it has been notd that those who have their stocks unsold at the end of the. season are almost invariably manufacturers whose poor taste does not permit them to understand this principle. Twentieth Century Magazine. Maga-zine. . SHE TELLS HER MOTHER. Prudent is the young girl in her teens who makes a confident of her mother and tells her everything. Ha nil shall not reuch her. Evil will not even dare to tempt her, for she has a guardian and a guide in her mother, and wisdom shall direct her inexperience inex-perience to safeguard her innocence. The depraved themselves will take quick notice of her security. Silence, darkness and ignorance are their aids in their nefarious amusements. Frankness, Frank-ness, sunshine and instruction they detest. And the girl who tells her mother they shall not wrong. It is fo mothers to accustom their daughters, from the age of twelve to the day of marriage to disclose to them all that seems to her right or wrong, so that the maternal. Judgment may be passed on these wort)sr actions, and she thus learns to know how to separate the good front the bad, in that disclosure lies the safety of the maids. Of every one of them so defended and advised the warning may be given to the corrupt cor-rupt : "Do not even try to lead her astray, for' she tells her mother." Catholic Sentinel. NECESSITY OF FOOT BATHS. Not only are the feet kept comfortable comfort-able but the well being of the entire body depends much upon the time and care bestowed upon the feet. The feet should be washed daily in tepid water and soap, finishing with a dash of cold water to quicken the circulation and preventing their becoming too sensitive. sensi-tive. Friction is indispensable to remove re-move tough and callous surfaces and to render the foot soft and flexible: Callosities Cal-losities may be smoothed with toilet pumice stone. They will not occur if j the feet are washed daily. The nails ; shonlrt he cut sciuare across the ton. I If the feet are dry, rub in a little fine j toilet cream or vegetable oil until ab- sorbed. If the feet are moist, rinse in water containing a little powdered alum, vinegar or ammonia. After wiping wip-ing them perfectly dry, dust on a little talcum powder. For feet which suffer from excessive perspiration, a little carbolic acid, say twenty or thirty drops in a basin of rinse water, is efficacious. Soda is also excellent to neutralize the acid of the perspiration. The hosiery should be changed daily and the street shoes exchanged for slippers or low shoes when at home. As a rule, the feet are not sufficiently ventilated, and the large pores of the soles reabsorb much of the impurities which they throw off. A frequent change of shoes and stockings stock-ings and exposure to the air when possible pos-sible obviates much of the unpleasant odor consequent upon constant imprisonment impris-onment of the feet in thick leather. Half an ounce of borax to a pint and a half of Avater makes a good rinsing solution. Boracic acid in powder form may be dusted on feet which perspire disagreeably, disagree-ably, with good results. DREAM STREET. Around by the corner of pleasant Dream Street, You caithear the light patter of dear little 'feet. , It has no beginning nor end, so they say, So you see you can't find it by asking the way. Though every one goes to the Street of best dreams, Not a person will tell what it's like, so it seems. No numbers are found on the doors over there, And the houses and people rloa'. high in the air. They keep the frost-spangles and silver , star-beams In a wonderful store in the Street of good dreams. To play round that corner, so safe and so wide. Y'ou can start .off tonight without money or cuide; Just climb on my lap and I'll whisper to you. And perhaps you will go where the dreams will come true; Past Lullaby Lane, then through Slum- berdeep Square, And the first thing you know you are landed right there: LEMONS FOR HEADACHE. . Rubbing slices of lemon on the temples tem-ples and back of the neck will soothe some kinds of headache. Another way of taking lemon for a bilious headache head-ache and one said to be a cure, is to put a teaspoonful of juice into a small cup of black coffee. It is far better,-however, better,-however, to use lemons freely at all times and so keep the liver active and avoid bilious tendencies. |