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Show Ij I (TaTEST UN FASHION I I I FOR WOMEN I s I j j BY EDITH RAYMOND. I VEW YORK, N-.1v. J3. Paria is rn V .ndinc at thin lioiir for ihe skirt thai CHl gnj: sJruipht as a pipe stem, swirl ',' I and around the loet with every id HiovcmcDt of. the body if the skirt is If it SnP or liaDRinjr without apparent flow 11 f Iff: short. This in what close fol liltwri of Pan's are wearing here. But MMf'&P avcracc New York girl cither laekfi Ifr straicut figure demanded for sueh r i ' dvc or hor own idea is out of at:- rnBa 5 foS with it. -Moro plaited skirts with wite i 0;1C dow at the foot, as the walk are -til 1 cu than anything else on well-dressed ,f 1 (ranien. The plaited skirt is a deserv- I Uv uopular model and a practical one, ittlajl i , a larc part of the population al 1 I " .s mvc their allegiance to it as soon v ?i m they ace it returning .to vogue. So M ! much for the walking tsuit. ilu ' I V.ir the house the gown of reasonable '? J Jntincis with girdle just a trifle lifted . -j I rLV0 the normal is the first favorite. Drt-' ! come persons are placing tho girdle J rln jown and some arc accentuating '1 ? ho waist length by a downward curve. ClI i Dnt the slisht woman gives up with 5 reluctance the hltcd girdle ior her S 1 house toilettes. Women who wear a T i mxtn more than one season are .bnug- i 5 idc the girdle near, it not quite, to II normal depth, J)ccause of the gradual V, f. ipndcncy to sueh a style and the prolia- hility of its general vogue a few months i hence. . , ' ' r Tho ouo-picco gown continues, al- i Ihoueli in many instancos it is of two-43 two-43 niece effect. -But the princess tunic -S -s still a favorite. A great many ong- f mJ ioalities in draperies are seen . this sou- o9? i 5JU a sown of silk cashmere is draped IN 1)1 l with a cross-over waist fastening al the - oist line on one side with a joweled CeBu t cabocliou at each side, and these are H r toGDCdcil by three droopiug jeweled W ft ropes across the front which suggest a . 3 dip of the waist. Tho waist and the D3H$ 5 front panel the skirt to flounce depth A v are of lace dyed to match the cashmere, ' 1 and the cross-over sides ot' the waist , - A arc faced with wide bands of the sillc. H J The open V is filled with a white lace it j J00, beeves aro of half length. 81 '! I nother draped princess robe, made Ji'W i r a fushioiuimc dinner is of mother- of-pearl supple satin with a waist of -7 vhile silk voile. Wide bands of em - Iroidorv, done in brilliants and iiue sil- i't -f, loop the tunic, up at t ho front, trim ; i it at t lie fides and make a garnishment l8 r for Hie bodice. The front Ioo)ing of , .... w ihpsliirt gives a series of graceful folds ( UL fr al the eiUiH, which are a marked i'ea- 1 tori of the gown. Ha Fashion is euipliasizing- the tciuleney :ofskirfs to assunie a clinging effect be-. be-. law :l:e hncos. While at first it seems 1W ! a cxtre,nc ',c hurdle drapery, as Ml it is called, is, on the whole, graceful, II I w lejs sn in fact than tho long, un- JI1 ) litob'ti lines to which wo have held with II tsfji Dcrtfiftoncy. Jt is, particularly well nitcd to the cicvelopmenl of soft ma-'. ma-'. lorials and to veiling fabrics, where : the diauhanous chiffon cloth or silk is caught to a foundation. Only tho clev- - f trct of dressmakers know the methods liich some of tho eAects are pro-, pro-, for their appearance of simplic-inost simplic-inost decctiti vc. re are two dustinct kinds of ''hur-drapery, ''hur-drapery, that in which a separate mdution skirt figures, and the olh- . nhich bunds or straps are made swer the purpose. Tiie latter, of are not lo be used where the ial is in auy'Oegrcq transparent, on? some imported' lreiich cos- there is a model built of niahog-auuijeline niahog-auuijeline over talt'eta. The taf foiiiidution is plain and close-fit- The skirt meets the bodice in a ul line below the bust. There is I skirt of mnusseline laid in reg-daits reg-daits and attached to tho taflVla stiou al a trille below kuee depth, i ails hciug caught onlv al Ihe top. tliev are applied to the fouiida-i. fouiida-i. The uppur portion of the skirt od. so thai there is scarcely any s at the top. Whatever fulness may he is folded in so (hat over iy and above the skirt appears . smooth-fitting. The material is oive-ver, so that it Hares eonsider-,'Clon; eonsider-,'Clon; the hip line, and at the point ' it is joined to the plaited see-t see-t is fairly voluminous. The width 1 L'M gathered to the size of the at ion at that point, which is nar-,t!ian nar-,t!ian it is above.. The effect is "UK. WhiJp (he uiip.-r skirl, falls the lower in a ulighlly pouched . or. there seems lo be no mircps- ' 'f ham-iness. though onlv fh,. eon-who eon-who evolved He; model knows iH of its iiinnnguincul. If'.n in which the short skirl or l inade plain, while the uppor m taknsan exaggerate,! fulness, is ' I'U. to :, entirely .lilTerotiL aa none iljy os.s attractivp. A dfin-'J dfin-'J 01 Ihis is an ellectivc ereu- f h hipk and white checked loins i I ' wIupI, tho centers of tho cheeks MnjpMrenl and show Iho cerise of fj'.t" M.p. over which it is made, bo.hor . ,, ;1 IrmcesSi Sni0l,t1.iUilljr '01,1,1..,- to hip lino, and from it enjernos into fuhu-sH, which is at the lower ,,art or at luit.i-' luit.i-' o pun over a perfectly plain ; f fljMiiiuo of.lln. Kme material. - -w lo,., Mraighl sleeves, finished P.ug of black velv.'l and a , collar uf applicpio net over satin. 1 S' U!k r v Pari Lilians wardrobe this bcahoii. tlmh.i i1"0.1 0!'K'"1 dressmaker il 1 intvmluec it. All classes I Ti. Vs 1,1,1I hut 8 are einplov- laftr'r,,rily V.0!L! ll,f,t lH ivinur ir ',rol'-"-li ngain.st, ac- 0 lffenv,1!" oC1,t!Slies. accord-actim) accord-actim) . Ci lx tIlu 0V(-'. if "ft to Cull- 0,J,,IIO'"t. 1 ' 'ng is 1)ande(, ;in(3 co. , 'if. fii?! :"U.1 tho ficom tail- s fciu n 15 robo w?.rn 0,lIV in-Th in-Th l3; om ,urc 1 trimmed with 0hn! Jr r'; al' heavy as their lu hcfiev i,iU,i1 of,u, wo,,,(1 is the ,0W,u'ith h'11' weight. liaidsom Lt 11 trir'ning, oven of ,s Ck A? n,??Wi,ls a?l. coats. Tho ?cde3 clri J l0"K-hsiir6(l and of niw cLIJ'ki' vxtin Popular-cxnlnvo8 Popular-cxnlnvo8 fk, hoar, but this Aii?anr;?c "H! '.s hj'ju-icr. Many f4 i.S bladt fc,dn is use-h,as use-h,as o I '" "CSC4S- au'I the woman - |
