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Show 000OvOC00000 000 Y Advance Spring Fashions of Paris jf O.J.o000000000000 ARTS, Feb. 20. Where two or i I RJ lnree ftre gathered together In j S club, anion or on the street the ! j chief, topic of conversation is war, more war and nothing save war. The close relations existing between Russia nnd Franco naturally make Paris very autocratic in her war sentiment Indeed, Paris which Is ln-r ln-r ' tellectual France acts as a sort of ad-; ad-; I vlsory and financial agent for the land '-. of the czars. But society. In spite of '; the desolations of war, must havo her amusements, and to nee and bo seen at the smaller salons which are now ) being held previous to the great spring I exhibition is tho object of the Parl- slenne's life at present. Tourists passing pass-ing through Paris en route to Algeria, Cairo or Cannes do not miss spending an hour or two looking at the latest things In the art world. The exhibition which opened Its doors this week at the Ccrcle Volney contains 2G0 pictures. Including In-cluding works of many famous artists of the present day. Cnrolus Duran excels himself in a charming study of the nude, and Bou-guereau Bou-guereau sends one of his characteristic characteris-tic studies of a beautiful maiden clad in transparent draperies seated by the j . border of a river. It Is a question whether these salons ' should bo judged from the point of pure art or from a social aspect. Many : habitues who rarely miss attending ; these functions admit that they are 'j equally fascinating from both stand-i stand-i points. ' Although It was terribly cold outside, in the heated galleries, thronged with h beautifully gowned women, everybody V4JJkscl about as at a reception. Indeed, It only required a cup of tea and a sandwich to make the Illusion com-I com-I plete. Everybody seemed to know ev-I ev-I erybody else, and the hum of conver-I conver-I satlon was bewildering. I : A glance around the room gave an I '. Idea of the dress of the moment. Very I " smart and new In Its trimming treat-I treat-I , ment was a dark violet cloth gown adorned on both skirt and waist with I . Louis Seize sill: ruchings. These ruch-U ruch-U ings were gathered very full about the I : skirt In a looped effect at the head of a I deep fitted flounce. A double row of I ; ruchings trimmed the short, cut-out-at-I the-neck bolero and upper cloth I sleeves. Worn under the bolero were I full, puffed sleeves and a chemisette of I white guipure, which at the waist I ; pouched slightly back and front over a I deep waistband. The hat, a white lace 1 marquise, had a cascade of mauve or-1.! or-1.! chlds carrying out the tones of the I ; gown. I; At present the modlstlc mind Is a I'l blank and prepared for any Impression I' that may come along. The fussy, 1 1 fidgety persons who begin in mldwin-l mldwin-l tor to concern themselves as to how I; they shail astonish and electrify the I' summer resorts are having Just now I: rather an unsatisfying time. It Is all I'i very well to be forearmed, but there I: are UmltB even to prevlousness, and I W. do think It Is a pity that women talk l: j so much to each other about dress. If I you consider awhllo you will find that I '.the best dressed women of your ac-I ac-I qualntance are all remarkably reticent I as to their modlstlc movements. Why I not let the fashion chronicles do the U talklnc? It's their business to do so, and from their elaborate effusions and themes one may work out her own individual in-dividual salvation. There Is one thing we may be sure of, and that Is that spring materials may come and go, but the general silhouette of fashion will be the same until next fall at least. As to the continued approval of pastel pas-tel tones there Is no doubt; nor does it take a very deep Insight to perceive the cause of this sustained fancy. These tones are delicate and expensive and therefore beyond tho pockotbook of the populace. The delicate putty, ecru and gray shades, not forgetting the eggshell egg-shell blues and greens, arc all lovely. Many of the Riviera frocks nro all white, and If fashioned of rough serge and manipulated by a tailor the gown may be trimmed with oriental embroidery, embroid-ery, but the latest introduction of color on the white dross is in the tie which finishes tho neck of the blouse waist Several colors are ofton used. For Instance, In-stance, bright cerise and mandarin yellow yel-low combined and here and there vivid green relieves the monotony of an all white gown. Tho chic tie, however, Is of spotted black and white panne finished fin-ished with gold or silver tassels. A suggestion of gold or silver Is always a pretty finish on a light oostumo and corresponds with the gold and silver algreta which appear so frequently on the Riviera millinery. Speaking of millinery, mil-linery, the shade of the moment for hats Is bronze and all the nuances of golden yellows which look so well with the ' brown. The newest toque is long and narrow, composed of bronze satin straw trimmed with shaded brown satin bcad3. This Is a revived A'lctorlan fashion fash-ion more curious than pretty. Perfectly charming,, though, Is a rather large hat lifted well off the face and having a wide brim and decidedly round crown, the entire outaldo.of the hat being com- posed of rose leaves, while tho under-brlm under-brlm Is a mass of pink rose petals. A pink satin ribbon winds around tho crown and finishes In a chou on one side of tho front brim. White footing in all widths Is to play an Important part In the summer gown. It Is applied as a trimming on colored lawns and dimities as well as on white dresses. Particularly smart is a navy blue dotted swls3 with a skirt formed of three fitted flounces, each having three rows of two Inch white footing. A yoke formed of alternate bands of blue owlss and whlto) footing applied horizontally hori-zontally makes the very-much-off-the-shouldcr yoke, under which Is a bloused bodice fitted into a high blue taffeta girdle fastened with three little bows without loops. The deep cuffs arc of footing and swIss to the elbow, whero a bouffant effect of footing trimmed lawn hangs over them. On top of this fullness are deep, triangular pieces of the material hanging from the top of ; V ( THREE PARISIAN COFFEE COATS. the sleeve, which is very graceful. A magpie effect In black and white made up like the blue- lawn would be stunning. The skirt on the black gowii should havo strips of footing down each seam, with tho fullness at the waist laid In small, plaits. A novel trimming seen on a white' canvas gown was maae or gathorea wnlto satin ribbon rib-bon about an Inch wide put around In circles as largo as small breakfaflt plates. Only ono aido of the ribbon was gathered, the outer edge standing out In a frill. Those circles were placed between deep tucks of the material, which might be either voile or canvas. We are still faithful to the postage stamp method of using squares of lace on linen gowns, but tho most approved idea Is now to run a lino of Insertion up each sldo of the front gore, which turns and forms a hip yoke. Depending from this yoke at Intervals around the skirt aro other strips of lace. Still another an-other trimming modo Is to head a bias flounce with a foot and a half band of lace, often of the filet variety, strewn with tiny cotton balls. The same lace makes the little bolero around the arms. A smaVt whlto serge coBtume has a perfectly plain seven gored tailored skirt and a coat whloh Is the exact facsimile of an Amorlcan naval officer's mess Jacket. White military braid binds the coat, and frogs aro the fastenings fas-tenings down tho front. This costume Is wonderfully swagger for mornings at the casino. Apropos of things military, braid Is to trim spring skirts from the hem to about six Inchos from tho waist Black military braid looks particularly-well particularly-well on blue serge. Many dressmakers are cutting thoir skirts in one, easing them around the hips and then allowing the material to fall full about two inches on the ground. Graduated all the way up the skirt aro bands of silk or velvet. In other words, they have roturned to the "beer barrel" Idea, which Is a becoming becom-ing modo for a slight woman when worn with a bolero or little coatoc trimmed with braid. Many of the skirts verge upon the eccentric In style. For example, the fullness Instead of being In the back or distributed evenly all around tho waist Is relegated to the front, the back being left almost plain. Another model has the upper portion of the 3klrt arranged in three volants, the lower one just reaching the knees. Below this comes the plain skirt, which merely touches tho ground all around. We may now be certain that sleeves will be fullor, although they will remain re-main flat on the shoulders. The newest bodices are cut with the shoulders and sleeves In one, and the fullness begins about four Inches below the shoulder. The llttlo coffee coat which tho English have found most useful and becoming for a long time the Parisians are just adopting. Just why this dainty dain-ty cphemerallty Is called by Its name history sayeth not, as gin jacket or chocolate coat would be equally appropriate appro-priate appellations. But coffee coat It Is, and, topBy turvy fashion, It is worn at afternoon teas. These comfortable coats are mado low In the neck of pretty pret-ty chiffons and nets, cut either In bo-lera bo-lera fashion or with wide fichu effects. They form a kind of life caving station between ' the heavy outdoor costume and the thin, low dinner gown. It may sound like forcing the aeason to talk about sunshades, still the fortunate for-tunate sojourners In sunny climes need the3e productions, and the ateliers are equal to the demand. The parasol exactly ex-actly matohlng tho costume Indeed, when possible, made of a piece of it will be the summer vogue. The old fashion of making a colored paraplule the color center of a toilet Is therefore do mode, A small though distinctive feature of the latest umbrella is a peculiarly pe-culiarly long ferrule In highly polished gilt. In the matter of handles there Is positively no limit, and real jewels are being pressed Into the service of the most beautiful of these. CATHERINE TALBOT |