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Show I, . w ', 1 f I I Christmas Work Basket. j ' ifi 'J " ' J ? S $ ' , if jjj Novel Remembrances in New Stitches. I. . ',' Jfl BY Iff. LE MONT, fl tt0 BE In keeping with the spirit of :' ffll M t'mes' tne Christmas remem- ! H Ji hrances that the needlewoman J V will faBhion from now on until n just before the udvent of this auspicious 1 ji tiny should be, In the new stitches that I (,?3 have been brought out during tho last , 'ijj , i few months. jj1 .This oeason Broderlo l'Anglalsc (En- V j Rlish embroidery, or "cut-work") and I I '. If ITardanger embroidery, or Scandinavian ' J j? Kitcli, and Spachtcl work, a revival of 1 ' u i an old combliiallon of cutwork, lace and : ij ' , t;i embroidery ntltches, are all rivals for I jl ffmlnino favor. Tho ISngllBh embrold- ' 1 c-ry and Spachtcl work are tho newest j fj among1 theso, but Hardongor ombrold- ' 'j- j m cry eemB to liave secured a firmer foot- I i ' tfTsl 1,0'd In tno household. There 1h, also, a loped edge is flniahod last in either buttonhole but-tonhole or embroidery stitch; then; the rough edge is cut away. In daisy centers and grapo clusters, and as decorations about a design, many little holes are seen In fine cut-work. cut-work. To make these, run a filling thread in a tiny circle, punch a stiletto through the middle and work the edges as In the leaf and flower petal. A combination com-bination of cut-work and embroidery is lovely, and so are combinations of cut-work cut-work and lace, In making- a cuff and stock set for a friend, work the cut-work design first; then embroider In satin stitch embroidery embroid-ery whatever flowers and leaves then embroider the scallops on the edge, or hemstitch a narrow hem. Such a set is both handsome and useful. The ends of neckties are finished In the same mnn-ner. mnn-ner. The same stylo of work may be elaborated elabo-rated In tabio seti; dros?lnjr tabic scarfs and malH for flower varos. In the adornment of silk and cloth dresses cut- 1 ill BMHMWwtiB; -,y immffi i ID I iHI I f:ltl for fll,in hv spaces with single 9ew- b I llfin lnR stltchcs, or making two and three rUhI together, like crow's feet. I I 111 Tn do,,,K an" oC these stitches as well II ' Iflm af' alm stn-ch, which has been revived I iRlfl and Is used more than any other stitch I i I . jfljl ;lt present use a needle corresponding i ; In In size to the thickness of the thread or I HI Lllk employed and the quality of the i '! 19 material to be decorated. Embroidery I , 19 f'Hks and cottons are bought by num- I j ' 9 bars, and the numbers of these must I 13 accord with the weight of the material I j Bflj to be worked if good results are to be I ! lU obtained. Crewel needles are best for all I i " III x)rt9 of embroidery, and for Hardanger, I ; i III Mountmelllck and coarse silk embroid- ' 811 ry uac "ne nu"ioers become ' Oil ttntiv as finer linens and threads are em- ' fill Ployed, until Nos. 0 and 10 are used for i i full ne S,11S an(1 threads on grass linen, i Bui so,f sIlk aml holting cloth, which corre- ( i 1 ill sponds to chiffon In weight, but Is firm IW of surface. j ', Vjl Tho Japanese get exquisite results by ! i 9D '-mbrolderlng on bolting cloth and put- i1 All tlnff ln a Perspective in. pale colors with ; ilH H Pnt brush and then mounting- the I,. (B1H cloth on satin or silk. Striking- yokes, j IfU ollars and cuffs may be made ln this i 1 llH manner for nice dresses, and the ends of ' J I ftj scarfs decorated in this way arc beau- ,j W tlful. Satin stitch Is used In this way. HH Cut-work Is a common and descrlp- '' 1 fill tive tlt,c for UroderIe l'Anglaise. It con- ! ; H lsts of cutting holes in the material, i ' fill turning under the rough edge, covering' i' fiU 'L wltn lonf' flHln8' stlches and then i, HjM working over It with an over and over. J) B19 stitch, or else an embroidery or a but- I ill tonhole stitch. The latter la much used, iuH uutdoes not properly belong- to cut- I : ill Suppose you are making- for a Chrlst- j Bj mas gift a table centerpleco and set of '-I WM doylies In cut-work and the design Is a 1 MM wreath of daisies, or the eaaler pattern I mm of sprays of locust leaves; the daisy luH petal and locust leaf are mmlr in iir V ' ' I ml ""lie fashion, only there are more of the' W ' i' IH 'atctr to make and they arc smaller, and, H f III therefore, more trouble. Draw the H B leaves all around the border of the cen- hVJ j '.' U lerplece, leaving a piece of the linen ex- ;'! WM tending beyond the Irregular scallops 1 ' Mm which trim the edge of the proposed r ' 1 1 fill ( entcrplcco. With a sharp pair of cm- H . mM broldeo" .scissors cut the middle of each H mm mall leaf from Btern to tip, curve the , . Bll Ides of the slit a little, If this will help '' i uil l'ny' and turu under the merest edge of k ' Ull iMe material, sewing it down with long H '- !I!I sewing stitches on the right side. Darn- H l; ' HI lnp cotton l-i good for this purpose. HVH l Ttun another line or two of stitches H ' - Hi wltu lnc 8t!tcl1 on ne lino coming I 'pi i KM i. gainst tho spaces In the next. This Is H i ! 'nil railed filling, and many more lines are H t IIhN taken where a llower or petal are to be HpH Wm worked in solid satin or over-and-over hV I HUH utilch. Filling causes the embroidery to I ' Hflfl havo a raised appearance, and tho I '- EH co ivtcr lnc UUnK cotton tho higher the I I '1' 111 pattern, will be raised. The embroidery I Ki' III antl over-and-over stlches are taken I ' (il- fll over thltt 111IlnB" and edge till all are I i 'il' i HI closely covered. I III IIoId tnc material as much as possible I '' HI on 1110 straBht edge ln doing cut-work. I " Hfiil Where a bias edge has to be held, great - I fill car& must he taken to prevent it from '; Bn pulling out of shape. V ;;: kihI TIlls form oC needlework is exceed- i' 'Bil 1'isly csy, and the woman' who cannot r' ! ill embroider may use buttonhole stitch !; HI and omit filling-. The stems maybe M t BW omitted or may he worked in stem Il 1 ' fill "tltch, a sort of outline stitch, only the l 111 'titchH are closer together. Stems are B j ulso worked ln satin stitch. The seal- work will be so fashionable that the presentation pre-sentation of a dress yoke and cuff pieces to any woman -would be a source of Joy. . Spachtcl work Is employed for all the articles that cut-work Is used for, but Is little seen on dresses because It Is more expensive and harder to make than the former. It is coming In more for the decorations of the lunch and the dinner table, the boudoir and the bedroom.- To decorate a bed set In spachtel work, draw a border of grape leaves and grapes for a pair of pillow shams and work the edges of all the leaves in long or short satin stitch, after running filling- threads along the edges. The stems are embroidered over filling edges, and the grapes in raised circles of satin stitch. "Wlien the design has been worked and the edges finished with scal-'lop, scal-'lop, hem or the outdine of the grape leaves and stems, cut away the material between the leaves and grapes and cross tho open spaces by threads, catching the cross threads where they meet. Next, buttonhole over every thread. This makes a strong, durable and handsome hand-some cobweb filling, although other lac stitches are used for filling in spaces, and you are at liberty to make any open lace stitch that you may care and know j how to make. A center of the same do- j sign should be made and then sewed to the middle of the bedrprend with embroidery em-broidery stitch, after which the material Is cut away beneath the decorative pattern. pat-tern. This manner of working is carried car-ried out on any article made in this stitch, Hardanger embroidery is practically everlasting, and Is quite the rage. It Is worked, as Is cross-stitch, by counting count-ing threads. Great care must be taken to have all threads run evenly, and the needle must be put in and held in the same direction for every stitch that corresponds. cor-responds. A change of position In the needle will cause the thread to cross In u- vuuuuii uin-i-nun ana maice a cross of equal size with the one next to it, but by no means one of equal appearance. appear-ance. The perfect uniformity and evenness even-ness of Scandinavian embroidery Is Its charm. Table and bed sets, scarfs for buffets, and -dressers and covers for tabourets as well as collars, stocks, cuffs, waists and yoke pieces, are done ln Hardanger embroidery, and handbags and fancy articles are sometimes finished In this stitch. A smart new article to make In it Is a child's winter coat. The coat Is made of the heaviest weave of white Hardanger Hard-anger linen worked In heavy white thread. Buy the working- thread sold to correspond with the weight of linen. "Work the bottom and front border of the coat and then cut the little underarm under-arm and shoulder seams and neck to fit the size of the child for whom the coat Is Intended. Or the wide band of trimming- may be made and sewed to the coat afterward, but this would not bo so handsomo. Next, work a narrow piece for a collar and shnpe the neck to fit afterward, and then make two bands big- enough for cuffs and add these to the slseves. A good needlewoman will know how to make the sleeve bottoms and cut the sleeve to fit afterward, but this requires more skill than ln cuttlne the coat. A coat like this may be lined -with heavy white silk over an interlining- of qui ted canton fiannel if much warmth is desired. An amattur would do well to buy a square collar pattern and draw Its outlines upon the linen, with the front edges and bottom exactly on a thread. Any fullness at the neck may be taken In at the shoulder. "Worked ln pink and white and lined with white silk, a small cover for a paplor poudre book, made In Hardanger Hardan-ger atltch, would be charming. This hook Is scarcely larger than a book of cigarette papers, and might be held ln place with baby ribbon and have a baby ribbon bow ln front to fasten with. Papier Pa-pier poudre is a useful gift in Itself, but all the more acceptable ln some daintily embroidered concealment. I Opera and slipper bags for uso at winter entertainments are so desirable that a woman cannot have too many of them. A novel one Is made by taking tak-ing a large piece of white brocaded silk and stamping- the Initials of the prospective pros-pective owner In the middle of one side Tho stamping Is then fastened over an embroidery hoop and worked ln raised embroidery in silk satin stitch. Two : shades of gold, or gold and white, make j a pretty combination for the letters. The outline of flowers may be dls- I cernlble In the white silk. In that case, j outline theso by stitching little gold sp-quins sp-quins or tiny gilt beads along the edges of 4.he llowers and stems, outlining each petal and stem. Tho leaves, too, may be outlined In the same manner, but this makes the design lose ln airiness. Next, sew tho sides of the bag to two small oblong- pieces of silk with a square top edge. The bag- Is pleated or gathered to the side pieces, and the top finished by sewing tho fullness under a purchased gilt bag top or by hemming the top of the bag to a band through which ribbons or silk cords may be run to draw it together. There are so many ways of finishing the tops of bags that every woman may put her own top finish fin-ish to one. The lining- is of gold or white silk, and lias a pocket of the same in each side, put in lefore the lining- is sewed In tho bag-. Tho pockets are for handkerchief, hand-kerchief, purse and opera glasses. This Idea in gold and black, or steel on bla k. is handsome. Coronation braid has come extensively extensive-ly into use for fancy work, and Is a boon to the woman who has not time for tedious stitches. It lias the appcar-anco appcar-anco of hand embroidery In raised satin stitch. Bedroom sets are lovely worked over with this braid, which Is simply sowed to the stamped design. It is more pffectlve when mingled with hand embroidery. em-broidery. It Is particularly appropriate for collars for school children and for braiding children's clothes. Parallel lines of It are filled In with French knots and crow's feet. The woman does not live who would not Joyfully welcome at Christmas time a set of largo embroidered Initials in a frame, all ready to sew on to her household house-hold linen; or a set of tiny ones to applique ap-plique to the corners of her handkerchief. handker-chief. Nor Is any one proof ngalnst a fine handkerchief with the initial In tho corner and a border of honlton braid 1 wrought with lace stitches by hand. The Flemish sOtch is the most popular popu-lar among- lace stitches at present. It ' represents figures In solid outlines upon a perfectly square mesh. Flemish lace braid is used In working- the designs, and the mesh Is worked In Flemish stitch, which forms absolutely even squares between th-e figures. Yokes for corset covers and chemises as well as for dresses are greatly desired de-sired In this form of expensive lace, and pieces of It are exceedingly valuable In decorating the neck and sleeves of a ! dress. There Is no limit to the Christmas Christ-mas gifts which may be made of Flemish Flem-ish lace, but It Is as tedious as It is fashionable. Drawnwork, with which women are familiar, Is popular for making household house-hold decorations and trimming for dresses. Shoulder scarfs are so popular that a handsome one mlght.be made as a Christmas gift by cutting one out of chiffon and sewing two rows of honlton honl-ton lace braid around tho border and then embroidering a cluster of llowers in satin stitch in each corner. One may buy a piece of Oriental silk all ready embroidered, cut out the figures and apply them to the ends of a chiffon scarf with beautiful effect. Men enjoy having embroidered and cross-stitched slippers given thorn, as well as neatly embroidered handkerchiefs, handker-chiefs, so that the neodloworker may plan and make Christmas gifts for all her family and friends. |