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Show andscaping by Karla Hancock ... aid of : : - 5 Pruning Deciduous Trees: v Maintaining the Established Tree f1 B, KarU Rngh HancocK lct js'menrioned last week, the Shfer ,i which has been systemati- ufki jj pruned since planting, 1 Was the most part, seldom ' -eeds drastic pruning as a Ser anie, established tree. The i Wss option to this is when a aive tree has '.been planted Uef rf 3ii area which is more suited ' "f jismall shade tree. (When a uPe seon no longer be kept in Td sjDds without total mutila- a of its natural outline, the 0r . lisest course is usually ajoval and replacement with . J!? iwre satisfactory tree.) I, " The pruning objectives out- ? e" :itd for young trees in last aa wk's column apply to the "nine of established trees as esses r' , ft iejl--that is, one should ) tne , . . , each 's m m .vhite """" out Wea't crotcnes' , iroken or diseased limbs Hitrsprouts, etc. As with all lr a . . , . , , . pruning, there should be a I i mi for every pruning cut. J When to Prune "ft s . nsth Althougn tree pruning can lone at any ''me'' cuts . uiilly heal more quickly in s j :idy spring. Some trees-- jj,e specifically maples, beeches, jlj,, bifches, walnuts, and horn- .jj, tams-are 'bleeders," and pjjj inly spring pruning results in t j,y ie heavy flow of sap from u. tee trees. While such jjj pniiiing isn't harmful (maple Jnk ws are "bled" each spring ei0 ia the gathering of maple lrtjn syrup, without harm), the ion. '""1'n8 process is a sticky , 0 m. Trees which fall into this .. f ii i , group should be pruned in late summer or early fall. Corrective pruning-remov-ing broken or diseased branches-should be done whenever when-ever necessary, to forestall serious injury or damage. With established trees, most pruning is of a thinning nature. To give trees a dense, feathery look without removing remov-ing the crown, major branches should be shortened back to a side limb, to encourage lateral growth. Although the "tree butchering" butcher-ing" mentioned last week (the practice of bobbing off the tops of trees, ostensibly to promote rapid growth of feathery branches) is not really considered consid-ered "kosher" by most tree experts, it does have a fancy name "pollarding" and is practiced more extensively in Europe than in this country. However, such a method is rarely used except when trees have become too old to produce adequate and healthy foliage, and is considered strictly a "last-ditch stand", with the idea of giving the tree a few additional years, rather than removing it totally. The resulting look is far from natural, particularly when locally done to cottonwoods, but apparently has its following. follow-ing. Removing Major Limbs When large limbs are removed, it is necessary to make several cuts in order to avoid ripping the bark below the limb, which invites disease and decay. The accompanying illustration shows the cutting method to use for clean removal of major limbs. First an undercut is made (A) six inches or so from the main trunk. The branch is then sawed off at (B), and finally removed flush with the trunk, (C). The hole remaining should be trimmed into an elliptic, or oval, shape with a pruning knife, and all splinters and ragged wood removed. The wound should then be painted with tree wound paint, which is usually available now in spray can form for the homeowner who only needs small amounts occasionally. Using the Right Tools As with all tasks, the correct tools make the job much more pleasant, and increase chances for success. For small cuts of branches 3 inch in diameter or less, ordinary hand pruners will suffice. Lopping shears andor pruning saws are needed for larger cuts. A carpenter's saw will not work-its teeth are too fine and will stick in live wood. Hedge shears are also not an appropraite pruning tool; neither are chain saws, although al-though they are used frequently. frequent-ly. The danger involved in using a chain saw while working at some distance from the ground with unreliable support scarcely needs mentioning. men-tioning. Pole saws may be required for inaccessible cuts. As a general rule, it is wise to call on professional tree surgeons T for - major cuts i-which- involve heavy or inaccessible limbs. Unfortunately, except for transient tran-sient services, Moab has no tree specialist. This would seem like a highly promising career choice for a young Moabite who would like to remain in the area, make a good living, and contribute a much-needed service to the residents of Southeast Utah. |