Show i FE IININE FASHIONS AND FANCIESJ w 1 r J i Queenly Garments For Evening Wtaps Gloriesof the Ball Room FlesMeducingColors w t < tr r + J > < > r w > L j 2 4 c c 1 I I I 1 1 I I I f DRAPEPQY POR BODICE New = York Dec 10It is i never an easy matter to lay down the law with I iegud to midwinter fashions and yet f the Sunday shows of church parades parad-es and the nightly revels of dress at the theatres prove anything they go to show that violet and gray are the fa orile colors Embroidery is still the popular garniture and infinite varieties of the roissan blouse have almost ef fared everything else in the way of boilK 1t et Jrd j nck ts All the high neckt 1 < ngslee cd theatre waists for U2 witl dark skirts better known perhaps per-haps is tantasie waists ale made of hatv Flk or satin taffeta or faille f v A y carers f cUic > or Imances dic at and the fronts thereof are overlaid j over-laid with bniseb of some gauzy goods I eial irately decorated with spangles Th artful hopkeepers have the most mptmp front made up fastened over pik covered dummy figures and thus iht PA es of rVmnmity are dazzled and th ir pnpes betrayed Such fronts ash as-h > his show aie usually of chiffon 01 r t net or Uberty silk and deco at0J with sunbursts scrolls or ara I I t I l t I t t cz 1r If t t EVENING WRAP OF SROCADE SILK jesques cf oriental design done in sparplc cf very color vax pearls prettily colored glass boidb or cut steel Ugles Then a am th < > rp are fronts I dsrlittir with eniiuoiuciy done in gold nd i silver thread1 uir > big gilt and sil I 1 > v spidr welt with centtis of pearl mock turquoise At first sight there rdtmabb an air of hoptKvs cx t traYa r rue about these fantastics of ahior l id yet they are not hy any ijeaw hasil only by tht mil Homil Tf i 1pk one pretty front can be f1 from bodice to bodice bo-dice and ili mi kind of care will do el1t sue Visauuful service the winter nrough VHF PRINCESS REVIVAL Everywhere it is plain 1 to See that th L = a H r slender women are trying to force a revival re-vival of the princess pattern which is naturally abhorred of the stout short sister Many slimwaisted girls and matrons are already appearing in dark blue or darkgreen granite or sultana cloth suits having the front of the basque tight fitting and decorated with braiding in straight lines that continue on flown to the foot of the skirt Quite I as often in place of the silk or wool braid the ornamentation is done in I narrow bands of silk or satin laid on I flat like braid but edged with a very narrow tinsel cord This say the sharp I dressmakers is to be the universal trimming for new tailor suits in the spring I WOOL IS SUPREME Cloth gowns chiefly for all ave evening I even-ing occasions It is really surprising I how little silk and velvet are worn by daylight Cloth appears on the most exclusive and fashionable backs for breakfasts and luncheons afternoon weddings and morning musicals and for evening concerts at which hats are worn I True it is usually cloth richly I adorned with the novel and handsome I ton sur ton embroidery the flowers in I the design being of woql and scuffed underneath so as to give a raised ef I feet The Skirts of such suits are cut I I so that a seam runs djrectly down the I front andthe fulness behind is some i j I times laid in two box plaits The fact 1 of the matter is that the seam don the front and the experiment of cutting j the cloth on the bias is sure to become I a very general fashion before long Without exception the plaid cloth skirts are cut so and in the cloth of a sojid color The two plaits at thq back I are usually ornamented their entire length with traceries of black or dark j braid This last achievement in start cutjjng jsreajly an unmixed blessing l t > B61 x L V > for the stout oman for whom fashions 1 ions are so rarely designed Anything more frightful for instance than a portly matron in a Russian blouse is hard to imagine and yet in a bias skirt with slightly braided rear panels a basque with a loose front tightfitting back and sides and square hip tabs falling below a very narrowly folded waistband even a full blown figure comes forth in excellent proportions propor-tions A PARISIAN SENSATION It is yet to be proven whether there j is any reason in it but the dressmakers J3 dress-makers echoing a report from Paris I say that in gowns of certain colors 1 flesh seems to shrink in others tovex pand and over this smart discovery discov-ery the stout ladies are jubilant A subdued shade of peacock blue plum color and olive green with black of course are announced as the colors under which flesh seems least ostentatious osten-tatious while Avedgewood blue pale gray and almost any shade ofr dare to be avoided sedulously j Here are the restrictions and permissions > permis-sions made as to wool goods velvetS and silks So far no latitude nor constraint con-straint have been given as to cottons but in the way of trimmings and light tints orange yellow light blue and cerise should not be used Mauve and the higher tints of green are the two colors that in decoration about the throat and shoulders are especially helpful in diminishing the effect of flesh DANCING FROCKS But after all for true beauty of form and color the evening gown this season sea-son is the thing Undeniably for daylight day-light use the dresses even of the most extravagant women are growing every year more arid more sober but after the gas stars and electric sun of the ballroom is up the glories of feminine costume appear It is difficult to give a realizing picture I pic-ture of a vivid cerise under petticoat i for instance veiled in cream net on i Avhicjh1 airy background three foamy ruchings describe apronlike curves I above a bordering foot frill edged with cerise colored baby ribbon A roundly open bodice veiled with net and clasped clasp-ed with a high folded waistband of satin sat-in drawn into a big bow on the left side from which depend double trails of poppies falling to the hem must next be imagined and there you have a glowing graceful but not in the least costly dancing dress for a miss under 20 An effort again must be made to gather mental picture of a pink satin skirt quite round and severely plain save for one big flashing artificial diamond dia-mond fastened in front just about midway mid-way between waIst and foot From this running out in every direction over the skirt radiate many waving lines of silver spangles It is as simple a scheme of decoration as can be thought yet it turns a plain petticoat petti-coat into a very regal sort of garment With it is worn a pink bodice its waistband waist-band drawn through a mock diamond buckle in frontits open throat draped in cream lace while on one shoulder is fastened a knot of roses from which nearly to the knees falls a white chiffon chif-fon scarf powdered with pink silk rose petals J3ytheby this shoulder scarf effect is repeated again and again on the loveliest of evening costumes A net IP I the usual material and shoulder knots of white hlac 1 fastens it most often to uu bodice Yet always a note ofdoini nant color is struck in these dancing Old dinner toilets by the flowers with which most ofthem are set off A favorite combination with young i girls and matrons irrespectively is a i white underdress veiled in rather coarse black net full black and while ruchings of net at the foot a wide waistband of orange or cerise colored crepe de chine and long net sashes falling from one shoulder on which is set either a cluster of vividly shaped nasturtiums or bright carnations Crepe de chine and taffeta are steadily taking tak-ing the place of velvet as girdles bE they wide or narrow and in place of letting sash ends fall from the waistline waist-line as was the mode hardly a month ago the waistband ends on the left side in a big wheelshaped bow of kilt plaited stiffened net or taffeta or wired rabbit ear ends of the softer crepe AN EVENING CLOAK It is a luxury even to discuss the cncnmg wraps of costly make > such as the accompany I ing picture this week ww t exemplifies A canary yellow brocaded satin forms fhe body of this Queenly garment and throughout its linings are ermine with the shoulder cape formed very simply but as elegantly of the whlte lox skins one disposed over either shoujder and the beautifully mounted heads showing sparkling i eyes of jackstone Though ermine is not the fashionable evening fur it jvasr Jovely capes having stole ends fringed with white foxtails are widely worn and it is no longer any I secretthat front white pats fur and with discreetly dyed tabfyy and tommy tailsthepiostj admirable and inexpensive I inex-pensive imitation ermine is made WFat Is more to the point it is very much worn and any girl is now entitled to wear an ermine cap to dinners and parties requires a long purse however to enjoy the luxury of wearing Garments of polar foxsklri A poor soft of substitute substi-tute is offered forthesntiwyarctlc fax fur in thatwofatlabig > wjestern Ayhite 1 rabbit This does not rmakeup into the lonij boas that rich women nojv wear oer their eofudlly while shoulders of an evening in place of ostrich feathers Besides a white fox boa should be finished I fin-ished by a cluster oftails at one end and a true foxs head at the other the I eyes formed of such semi precious stones as jade onyx etc KNOCKABOUT HATS It is a far cry from luxurious evening wraps toknockabout headgear and yet a word df commendation is needed for the Irish toques and Homburg hats that appeal for advertisement on all sides So pretty antI so exceedingly reasonable rea-sonable are these that any feminine head can be charmingly crowned for an I absurdly small sum If any woman has i a knot of pretty feathers jof any kind coque ouobtrich that she wishes to i utilize let her step Into the hat department i depart-ment of her favorite shop and buy a ready built new crush toque She can I II find it in blue serge to match her walking I I walk-ing dress or black velvet to harmonize I I with her chuieh gown It lies on the counter already draped and wrinkled over its frame needing only to be pushed push-ed up on the right or left side a tall effect of ribbon bows or feathers made there and the hat is ready to be pinned on the owners head A few stitches to merely fasten in her feathers and not more than 1 laid out in purchase of the I toque and her head is fit to be seen in any assemblage A Homburg is a round felt with a soft dented crown but a fiat moderate brim and the crown is encircled by a band of velvet with a knot of bright pheasant feathers on one side It is a sort of cousin to the Alpine but sufficiently suf-ficiently removed in relationship to give it all the charm of novelty As a rainy day hat it is without rivals M DAVIS |