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Show t "Gossip of the Parisian Sartorial World 1 1 i ARIS ov- 5. What faddists I flT-vc are concerning our phys-lad? phys-lad? ' ai well being, even the most fi self sufficient and conserva-' conserva-' 1 ,,' Sometimes It is mental S ,iv t-nt we think most curative. ,A?Ln Mic pendulum swings around ! ov m'nd and athletics, i i 10 'thU culture, rope skipping and 1 F'SPP cure are the thing most 41 Asain. It Is the silent room, )" S the "nervous prostratlonlst" I '' " u 10 concentrate her nerve force U f Snd for a Riven length of time ev-I ev-I jfSy at one fell ."think." At present ! in Paris the newest phase of fad- i'i,rt tlic curdle milk cure, which is .'tlnt: its Utile life on this gay stage 1 Sr tho last few days milk has been subject of our conversations. A i .rned professor at the Pasteur lnstl-Thas lnstl-Thas been telling us that curdled nt is the staff of life and that two Kills taken ono in the morning and I 10 . night will preserve the human i iirlo- No wonder everybody Is 11s-!n 11s-!n nc"dl3cusslng and seeking the extracts ex-tracts the exact words, with which 1! maltc's his disclosures. According i. this high authority. It appears that !. ctine microbe is the microbe to i . cultivated, and we must do our best I S tTl-allow as many of these bacilli a M'sible. Fortunately for most pcr-leutwo pcr-leutwo bowlfuls of curdled milk seem ' la contain the "possible" quantity, and j ,tl, diet Is persistently carried out i , are promised a green old age and tcne of tbe objectionable ills, it is heir 1 ll or the sporty clement, which in-11. in-11. eludes the smart set, the race fad is a It wnstant one. and its heart is ever true fcl'to that noble beast the horse. This MTtoniUflcy was evidenced again last flJCBday when the Grand Prix d'Au-' d'Au-' krone was competed for at Long- bmpa. To be sure, the favorite horso ; lid not win, and lota of money was lost 1 fci consequence, but the mondalnca, I arlnff winning costumes, wero happy ! ioplte this fact It was really funny i to see the followers, composed of dress- ciiera and girls from the well known I teulurleres, in the wake of the most i uasatlonal gowns. To such an extent : vis this the case that It must have f lien decidedly uncomfortable for tho carers of original models to have been I io shadowed. One of the dresses which ' czuied a flutter of excitement was of ! pMen brown velvet and cashmere. The ' fcnj tailed directolre velvet coat showed j the skirt part well curved over the hips j .'roni a bolero shaped corsage and Jln-j Jln-j ished behind In a double plait, over i' v,ilrli were turned back rovers of the ' Tlret dceor.ucd with largo steel but-' but-' Th" sklit. of golden brown ensh-y.vt, ensh-y.vt, was eymeflliurly full nt tlic bot-tr bot-tr siitl p;' i:e l with velvet Intersected ttult strap": of mini: tail fur. A large iru.',ii velvet hat trimmed with shaded Y.n Mm with the costume. At j tc inodirl, meeting it was concluslve-; concluslve-; '.' jeclue." tli. it tho lony coats and K.r large l' 't brimmed hats would be y.'r sjrtvr.o: winners this season. The rrjii. w'. wuij also there; but, let' .v t-iipi it was onV seen on elderly y- c Kotgivo me Lhi vord "elderly." J:t ucawarc?. for. with all J.i- r - .1 ''f-:n:'.y f-ure-.i ai! f'i'xis. I " i,..- ir "fr-n J,'t'ira'!ay8 or the marquis hat. with Its impertinent little brim, would not suit them. Black and green toilets were en evidence at the races on tho smartest women, and they promise to be very fashionable fqr winter made up In three piece suits, with the blouses composed com-posed for the most part of dyed lace with a yoke or emplacement of white cluny. and the ensemble of the costume preserved In a celnture of the cloth matching the jacket and skirt. Apropos of blouses, some of tho best models are very fetching. It Is hardly necessary to observe that they do not pouch any more. On the other hand, the blouse of the winter will by no means bo tight fitting, but we may rest assured that so long as a garment bcar3 the name of blouse It will. In "effect at least, be free and loose. Such a catholicity catho-licity of styles prevails in the new models mod-els that one Is allowed much license ln ohoice. But everywhere .and without exception there Is the high belt- In no single Instance cun I recall an elongated elon-gated drop below the waist line, although, al-though, on the other hand, there Is great freedom above the deep celnture and a marked tendency to draw the folda to a slightly vertical line. A number of the latest models of Agnes, the acknowledged Parisian waist artist, have short basques that start, from either ei-ther hip and undulate in a pronounced fashion uround the back. These basques add a piquant feature to what is known as the' tailor made blouse and are accompanied ac-companied by an exceedingly shapely belt cut slightly deeper in front than at ' the baclc On the more elaborate waists little lace and plaited muslin cravats and smK.ll rovers play an Important part. For c:camplo. on a stunning white inousyeilno taffeta blouse lavishly trotted to 'frtjfot stitch i.-ind sporting two fetchfng little capes about the shoul- ders there occurred the tiniest revers of pale green velvet edged with Tom Thumb Valenciennes edging. A hand worked motif was in the corner of each little cape. The small hiatus left by thLs trimming was filled ln with a chemisette of fine guipure lace fastened up the center front to the top of the high collar with tiny bows of white ribbon. rib-bon. All the elaborate blouses have elbow sleeves, oven thoso worn during the T day. A very smart separate bodlco Is i EAKLY WINTER BL OUSES AND WRAPS. made of cream lace over white silk. A i square yoked effect Is gained by means of a three inch rullle of lace, over which are draped ropes of silver passementerie. passemen-terie. Beginning at the girdle which, by the way, is of violet pannc are small, square bows of a lighter shade of mauve reaching to the bust line. The hlch lace collar Is edged with the passementerie, pas-sementerie, and a band of the same Joins the puffed sleeve and elbow ruflle3 of lace. Equally swagger after its fashion Ib a morning shirt blouse of old blue cloth. The fronts have the same old stylo fullness full-ness formed by four atltched plaita running from shoulder to wnlst and a fanlike arrangement of tucks ln the baclc About the neck Is a fitted piece of cloth which forms a round, flat collar col-lar and narrow vest, both edged with silk braid. Where tho collar and vest join at tho neck are loops of velvet of a darker shade held with enameled buttons. but-tons. The leg of mutton sleeves are banded with stitched cloth and tied at tho elbow with a velvet bow. Not to be overlooked in the blouse line Is the crossed handkerchief effects. A charming little waist is of shot taffeta taf-feta ln blue tones. The handkerchief front is divided into three separate pieces or folds, each one edged with tiny fringe. The sleeves arc large and elaborately puffed. There Is a new flannel, smart to a degree, de-gree, having embroidered stripes put In by machinery which is almost Impossible Impossi-ble to distinguish from the hand worked work-ed designs. It comes in all the charming charm-ing colorings of the season. There is a perfect boom In flowered effects Just now. A number of the smartest hats Vlrot Is showing have velvet or silk manipulated1- Into the i form of dahlias and rosc3, generally in a variety of shades. These form borders bor-ders to the brims of long, shaped torpedo tor-pedo toques, and ln the case of largo hats a flower of silk or velvet Is. placed under the brim. Even tho lace motifs on gowns take the flower form, being outlined with a gathered edge of velvet or satin ribbon. The evening wrap of today may bo complimented upon Its 'versatility. It is quite probable that never within our memory has there been so wide a choice as at present. I cannot help believing be-lieving that the diversity of choice in fashion generally Is a long step In tho right direction. A few years ago six women out of a dozen wanted a certain garment because the other six had it, and there were twelve women all alike and happy. But where did art como ln? That was merely being fashionable. Now the smart women of Europe aim at originality not the wearing of a skirt cut ln a different way or a new hat brim worn six months before tho rest of the world, but a style Individual Individ-ual ln Its. ensemble and exclusively their own metier. To return to evening wraps, you may choose a glorified Inverness In-verness and deck It with handsome furs and lace or n. shawl shaped graceful wrp, or still further penetrate Into the garments of the far east and select a mandarin's robe or kimono, and ln any case be modishly clothed. Chiffon mounted In several layers and colorings ; over silk trimmed with lnce and' edgings of fur makes a charming wrap, and tho broderle anglalse cut ln a. loose three-quarter three-quarter length bordered deeply -with chinchilla is stunning. A comfortable and smart wrap Is made of chinchilla gray plush with broad, faint ribbings of corduroy-like markings cut in the above mentioned Inverness style. The collar and turned back cuffs are of giiy cloth and are bordered with a Grefik key pattern in pink and gray 3llk touched up with Bllver cord. The cloth Is cut away where the design permits, and silver net Is inserted. About the neck a long scarf of chinchilla hangs loose ln stole fashion, and there Is a foam of soft gray net ruffles imprime with silver at the wrist. Ono or two simpler modes must not be forgotten. An effective cloak for a girl Is that of soft rose cashmere which takes a bloom upon Its surface like a grape and depends for success upon its draping and the delightful lights and shades where the large sleeves are gathered. The almost classic folds are caught up on one. shoulder by a great clasp of coral and sliver. Short, loose coats of white taffeta effectively braided braid-ed will be a popular theater wrap this winter and are light and dainty when worn with a pale colored skirt. CATHERINE TALBOT. |