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Show Parkites discover the meaning of 'jumelage' r : i kA "V ,.-. .. ,. '.., - .,. f If i ; - ;,v .''"i . -. . " t t- , . ,,, - , m. " , X f - - v v. -- - .... T;..... . ..... ... . - by Shiriey Smith J Jumelage (a French word used to I describe the relationship between I two towns) has new meaning for 15 I local residents and five out-of-state friends and relatives who made up this year's Park City group to Courchevel, our sister city high in the alps of eastern France. Armed with custom-made turtle-necks turtle-necks with a Park City-heart symbol-Courchevel symbol-Courchevel logo furnished by Jan Peterson of Jans Mountain Outfitters, Out-fitters, U.S. Ski Team flags designed by Mac MacQuoid, cookbooks by local food expert Sydney Reed, Park City centennial flags and books from Debby Symonds at the Chamber, and ski pins from Craig Badami at the resort, a very tired but eminently good-humored group hit Courchevel at 10:30 one recent Sunday morning. There are various ways to reach this, Europe's largest ski resort, tucked in the eastern corner of the French Alps, a stone's throw from both Italy and Switzerland. Our group chose the most direct: A flight to New York and an overnight flight with wonderful Swiss Air service to Geneva where a private bus was waiting to make the scenic 2V2 hour drive to Courchevel. After leaving Geneva and passing the beautiful 15th-century town of Annecy, the road winds up from the valley floor, passing St. Bon, the oldest village of Courchevel and seat of the city government, and Le Praz, the next tiny village and favorite gathering spot for the Park City . students who visited Courchevel last summer. Snaking up the spectacular can yon, we pass Courchevel 1550 (each level of the resort is named for its altitude in meters 1550 is about 5,000 feet), Courchevel 1650, with its streets of shops and hotels and, finally, our destination, Courchevel 1850. It is here at the top that most people stay. The best hotels, the finest restaurants and the most fashionable shops are all here, as is the very helpful Office du Tourisme . and the base lift station. Courchevel hospitality started immediately. After settling into cozy, comfortable rooms at the Hotels des Neiges, Bellecote or Chabichou, it was off to the tourist office to exchange Park City season passes for a Courchevel pass. An agreement between the two resorts provides reciprocal pass privileges for a week of skiing. A short rest and off to the week's first cocktail party, including beautiful beauti-ful fluted glasses of fine French champagne, hosted by Henry Benoist, owner of the lovely Hotel Des Neiges and the most charming of gentlemen. A welcome and introduction to Courchevel by Raoul Sudre, who provides a VIP welcome service to American visitors, and we were primed for the week's activities. Day two found everyone rested, refreshed and on the hill by 10 a.m. We rode the world's largest tram with 159 other people. In 42 minutes you are whisked to .the highest point in this giant of a resort. To give you an idea of size, Park City, Utah's largest resort, has about a dozen lifts. Courchevel has about 80 and the three-valley area skiable 'londue Bourgignon and a few healthy swigs of Genepe, the local white lightening, in Val Thorens and then ski another 15 miles. Those French know how to eat. Only thing we couldn't figure out is how they stay so slim and trim. And how do they keep up the pace? We barely had time to ski to our door, change clothes and race off to the Hotel Bellecote where our host Roget Toussaint graciously presented us with yet more of that lovely champagne. Day five started with the incredible incred-ible luxury of a massage to rid the body of the aches and pains from day four. Jan Peterson can give full details on this activity. Some hardy souls skied today, and others of us made it up just in time for lunch at the Bergerie, an old sheepherder's hut converted into one of Courchevel' Cour-chevel' s most popular restaurant where we were guests of the jovial owner and visitor to Park City, Monsieur Sauvenet. We raised the Park City flag and toasted our host and his restaurant and ourselves and being in Courchevel. And so the days went, each more wonderful than the last. We shopped: Ask to see Danielle Bean's, Sydney Heed's or Patty Murray's new ski outfits or Melanie Louis's black suede pants. We walked: Ask Jana Cole, who could not ski because of an injury the week before, how to visit Courchevel on foot. We pai tied: Ask anyone how many vodka shooters he or she put away at Russian night. We danced: Ask Ann MacQuoid about the hottest Charleston in town at the Annapurna Hotel. We niKhtclubbed: Ask anyone when they last went to a disco that opened at 1 1 p.m. and was still going strong at 4 a.m. We played guitar and sang: Well, some of us did, anyway. Ask Tom Distad how the yodeling is going. And, most importantly, we made friends with the wonderful people of Courchevel. We felt the warmth and hospitality that makes one feel an honored guest and we hopefully made yet tighter the bond of jumelage, or sister cityship, that binds our two very special towns. Bon vivants Ann and Mac MacQuoid tackle French wine on its home ground on the terrace of a mountain restaurant in Meribel. from Courchevel has about 175. We didn't ride every one, but we tried, and some of us, like Gary Cole and Richard Dudley and the Petersons, even learned their way around the mountain. No mean feat, especially to me, who after skiing Courchevel one week last year and another this year, can now find my way, maybe, into the second valley. Dinner was in our respective hotels this night, as is common in most European resorts. Hotels pride themselves on their kitchens and a typical dinner might be, as it was this night, a delicately seasoned soup, an entree of frog legs simmered in wine, a main course of succulent veal and a chartreuse souffle for dessert. In the French manner, we retired to the cocktail lounge for tiny cups of espresso and brandies and could have cared less ii we ever came back to Park City. By this time we had mastered the important niceties, the kiss on each cheek when meeting, the champagne before dinner, and Mac MacQuoid was gallantly referring, refer-ring, in his best French accent, to the Park City ladies as les foxes. On day three and in valley number two we skied with our fun-loving hostesses, Monica and Noella, into Meribel over the top of the mountain. In the powder Gary Cole and Richard Dudley did Park City proud with their perfect turns. Lunch was at one of the innumerable mountain restaurants: A light repast of a variety of cold meats and salad, followed by the restaurant's specialty of veal in cream sauce washed down with fine wine, of course and just a little Baba au Khum for dessert, my dear. We waddled back to our skis after that, but who cares when the sun is shining, Mt. Blanc is sitting on the horizon and the skiing is great? Tonight we enjoyed more flutes of that wonderful French champagne at a cocktail party hosted by Nicole and Michel Perichon, good friends to Park City and owners of the elegant hotel Grand Rond Point des Pistes. On day 4 -the Big One we took the 45 mile round-trip of the Three Valleys. Now, in addition to Monica and Noella, we had Francois and Jean Marc and Jean Luc too, all professional ski instructors and guides. You don't attempt the three valleys on your own the first time! We started early on this day and as it was we caught the last lift back at 5 p m. It was a day to be reckoned with, this tour of the three valleys, especially since you must stop for |