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Show Hp? A K S FASHIONS in LATE 3 UMMEK, yfe AND EARLY AUTUMN GOWNS VJ- pjOIi? anc Favorite Fabrics for ; vf. V: V t Exquisite Afternoon and Evening Frocks ; ; ' V few iia;iiilsTti. yMmw-'i i . --.v- , V i -- : . A tefe; -v. in t-v?. . : : Jii:-;4 m-my-mm fe dm?Jr r:lt?m m2& I ;.ttT.4.2;,v5 ?Si5?W :, .. XS, ercd Foulard 5 r-r:- y: .:t. :&$m$&! : . : vv;;--. : ' ' vri'M -sA irJ-r:tM - -y - . -; v.;.- - - . fcpvf.. . .:- . . - vv;. v..'. - . - 1 -ifel l-J.y ... .VVri-l-a P - - --::-.:-...- :-;;-;..V::V; . :r-rv;:;.fegf.A; Cream Colored Voile Embroidered with Blue and Gold Photo CopyTisht. 1010. by Rcutlfncer E.cJu)ve Copymhl, 1U1U. 'ew loik LJcnilJ BY A. T. AsHMORE. iC'-prrltbt. 1&10, Iry the Now York lIvrnM Co. Allrlgbi rfnt 1 voilod in rfUoAr ihlflToo. rntirl.v voilivl, tin1 oicrdrens lininhr-t merely with n wlte lirnmtitrliinjr. Tlx riAW xkirts rross In front and a most popular fashion for the vcili-il go'iw ha a nnrrow l;in of embroidery em-broidery cutting the two fronts. I'carl, crystnl, jot or sil or bfal. nn- UKfl fvr this unlnoidriT- or om c-ffcrtivo pn-so-inciiiTl?, 1 lie hitter much lcis CTpt-nRlre; or n folJ of sntin or velvet ribbon is also effective. One of the daintiest afternoon sown jm of pnle.it mntivc silk voile, nmde with eont to inntch. Skirt, waist ami coat are aeconlion plenteJ, anil skirt ourl eont alike are finished only with a wide hetnsl itching. The model is an extremely jdillii nit one to copy, fur witu accordion I pleats or tucks there is always Uauger thut the figure will not Irm!; well. Hut this gown, made by an artist in the drew-j drew-j making profession, is bo carefully and iperfeetly out thnt the plents merely give jKiraitrht lines and make the weaver slender, slen-der, The only trimmins Is 1 lie trunnpar-leiit trunnpar-leiit laee ycil.e nnd collar, Hod perhuis'n 'liow of real Vnlenelcnne lare, or rcvera ami cuffs o tluj linet lingerie trimmed . with narrow Vak'nciennex. These siDiple Kow'iis, with the touch of real lace and hand work, lwi.ve mi immense nmouot if tyle and originality, and arc in delightful i-u.ilni.si with the too exaggerated and overekil.orate fashions that chullenge attention at-tention hy th-ir eceentrieity, ami are g:un int' in favor every day. They are far fiuiu cheap for as y-t they .cijuirc to be made by the best of work people, but it will not be lung before the knowledge, of how to attain the timple Hues that an- ttu becoming will be acquired, aud the worm-o of good taste are already loud iii their praiso of tuch fashions. Striped Designs Effective. Striped voilr8 are made uj in mot tffee-tlvo tffee-tlvo gowns for afternoon cntcrtainmeots and are also usetl for dinner und theatro gowns. The bhic k no tin stripe with a pale ro? or mauve chiffon or voile is attractive at-tractive In cobiting, and, if not too wide a stripe, is invariably becoming. These striped m.iicn.ils are made up over plain color, preferably white, anil arc charmingly charm-ingly light und cool in appearance. Then for those who like the hlriped effects thero arc the S'At liuish taffeta silks in blade satin and white. A popular model for a theatre gown is of this design, the skirt made widi the material drawn across tho front aud b:id in thin pleats at the left quite high on the skirt; the back is one double box pleat, gives an exaggerated .higli waist effect that is softened and mod-ilied mod-ilied by four rhinestonc buttons that hold down the pleat to the normal waist line. The front of the wnlst crowes to one sld- and has rovers of the silk over which aro rcvera of the finest hnnd embroidered batiste bordered with narrow black satin. Yoke and collar are of the batiste; the sleeves fit close to the arm and are ko Ion thnt they wrinkle like long gloves and are finished at the wrist by a twist of bright cerise satin There is also a belt of the K.'inn: sntin that does not cross the pleat at I ho ba k nnd is linlslu d at the left side with a stiff bop that stands up against tUe waist. Jt is a real picture gown and b'oks well with a three corner hat of tine .black criu with plumes. I Satiu. so it is said, is going out of fasli-im fasli-im on account of its too great popularity, but let no woman who has invested in it be disconsolate, fr never were there eo maDy attractive Mtin gowns os there are tlds. kciifcon. At the name time every effort is being made lo introduce silks of all kinds, C'liangrable effects in queer ribbed silks, in nioirO, are among the very latest novelties, while the iniit fascinating of summer guwns are of the various kind of Mlk, and there is every indication that silk gowns are to be most fashionable next winter for the theatre and restaurant. restau-rant. The old fashioned colors nnd tho pnstcl shades are in demand for tho picture gowns, that are truly copied from tho old prints, but picture gowns are not to be rashly recommended, and, in fact, nut one woman in a hundred can ufl'ord to dreg in picturesque fashion. .; J7f--Y X:'.:l"---7 ' -' own-of Cornflower Blue Voile y'CCg)) JDil ' - Exclusivo Cwpyriehi. iyi6. New York W " ' '. f ' ''' ? rAf ill j g -.3.--u.i2i. Gold Embroidered Cream SUlr White Voile de Soie Gown W1h Cerise Girdle I'l.oto CV.pvrisht. l'lin. I.v rSontliu?iT t,n;0, CoyvrisJii. IftlO l.y nrnllinr Exclusive foi-yrichl. iNew Ymk Exclusive Copynshu 1MU. iNew York Ilernld Herald I gown o( rose piuk made over a chiffon or much liner voile lining or deep skirl, and on that skirt there is a wide band of i sonfai In? bruiding put on in a curious zig-j uair pattern. The ovcrsklrt is trimmed wiih two full shirred Ivinds nnd between j I the two is a silver ribbon tied in a knot ut j ; the b-ft side. This trimming is aLout sis inches above the he m and docs not cut the line of tho figure. The combining of two colors or two nvi-j nvi-j trials, or both, is very smart, and, strange j to say, is now most cleverly designed so that there is no shirp line to make tho figure shorter A most charming gown is of the cashmere pattern voile, with the I lower part of the skirt lilher of bfcht weight black rlcth or of a heavier blatic j voile. The pattern of the skirt is extremely ex-tremely simple in loose, narrow accordion ideals; the fulness is gathered Into the waist band, while the black at the lower half of the -skirt is' less full. The waist nntches the skirl, with the lvcr part of I the cashmere pattern and the upper of jMack. with white or cream bice net yoko innd collar, On th .-idc of the wnlst nnd skirt is a row of buttons with loops of J braid, giving the effect of the gown fus- telling at the side. This breaks the too round n ppe.n ranee of the straight band of I black. The .sleeves and upper part of tho ! waist are cut in one piece, as fashion now I I i dictate, ami w hile the style is a (lilhcult one to copy it is so genera 11 v befoming jlluit il is cirtain to remain popular for Ishiih: lime. I Veiled Gowns Popular. ' j Yei!e.l gowns are net new. but none the( I less they are cxticmely fashionable, and! ! I he fashion is so piaclieal th.it It Is dear! to the heart of the great majority of I womankind. An evening gown that has! been worn so cftcn that it is both t-hnbbyj laud too well known to be smart can W entirely renovated and made to look like iitw if it is draped ' veiled withj ! chiffon or marquisette or some one of tiiej i transparent materials, A c harming gown jtif white crt-pe de Chine nnd yellow luce, 'that had lost its freshness nnd color ns i well was culirely transformed by being' THIS is the 60-called dead season in the realm of fashion, in tbe showrooms of the big shops and private dressmakers. The employes em-ployes in all departments are off on vacations, nud apparently for Just a brief Bpace of time the all absorbing ab-sorbing question of dress is In abey-Bncc abey-Bncc ; hut it is only a very brief space after fill, and in the meantime designers are busy with tbe wiuter models so soon to le displayed to the general public, while already al-ready to a favored few is vouchsafed n n j vjoasional glimpse of what w ill ere long be given out for approbation or disapproval ThU is tbe season alove all othera when clotheH are thoroughly enjoyed, when gowns are being worn, not being made, and when, in consequence, women are looking their very best in the fascinating fascinat-ing gowns on which so much time, thought aud. incidental)-, money bave been expended. Summer gowns are proverbially pro-verbially becoming, and this year there are s.0 many different colors nnd so many different dif-ferent materials that tbe variety is endless, while it is quite a fad to combine colors nnd fabrics that formerly were consid-rreil consid-rreil impossible. One marked feature of tbis summer Is thnt the all white gown is so rarely seen. 'While is worn, lots of white, but rarely without the relief of some color often most cleverly introduced In the lining, if the material of tbe gown is transparent, or in the collar; a narrow satin baud as a finish, or if the waist is in surplice folds, then just an edge of color ouilines the yoke or guimpe, or ia in a knot of sntin ribbon where the fold of the material are crossed. If in no other way the touch of color is given by an artificial ros or one or two orchids or sweet pens, most perfectly made and resembling re-sembling closely the natural flower. -AppHietu but most delusive simplicity is the first effect given by the smart summer sum-mer frock of white voile. The r.kirl is short nnd round. It is finished around the front with either a wide cloth baud or two of medium width, the same color as the voile. The waist, iu surplice folds, ha a cloth belt, a narrow cloth baud, and the short sleeves are finished with a cloth J cuff. A pointed yoke and high collar ami close fitting three-quarter length lace cull's finish the waist. The bands do not go around the entire skirt, nor dues the fulness, ful-ness, for the front is left quite fiat and plain, and where the bauds cmd there is an ornament of passementerie, or the cloth is eut In a desicu and nppliqin'd on tbe voile. This model is made in all color col-or us well ns In black and in white. It is extremely snmrt and generally becoming, becom-ing, and is not dilllculi to copy if attention atten-tion is paid to the lines of both skirt uml! wnisL Figured voile is very fashioinhlo. more than the plain, and there arc many . deigns in stripes and chet ks of various size. A jacket to iiianh the gown is smart uimle in voile-, and the latest, fail is to have' the jacket uiilined. , black and white siriped voile gown, a n-al one piece gown., w iih high bi ll h.-ning medium width j snipe, bii.4 .1 coal to match that bangs siriigbl frooi the sI:oii!dci-s, the only trimming u velvet collar and ruffs, l!ght in weight, and tninspj rent as is the fabric fab-ric it is very smart made iu this fashion. Soutache braiding on voile is not an absolutely ab-solutely new stjle, but the braiding on voile that is fashionable at this time is quit'' ililTernil from last year's fashion. It is extremely smart to huvo a voile |