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Show PLANES BRING FASHION NEWS TO U. S. Parisian Designers Plan Spring Shows In Spite of War and Its B lack-Outs Another was a collection of 34 lace frocks, by as many different dif-ferent Paris designers, which Included In-cluded clothes to wear from breakfast break-fast to supper. Among them were smart shirtwaist frocks and dress-and-Jacket costume suits (light navy, almond green and beige) worn with hats and gloves of contrasting hue. There were also a number of white lace evening eve-ning frocks. Both collections wrt presented to New York buyers widths wid-ths press. V 1 :. Fathioni By ADELAIDE KERB Paris designers are putting up a sturdy fight on the wartime fash-Ion fash-Ion front to keep one of France's leading Industries alive. Most of the largest dressmaking houses have opened their doors again, after brief September closings clos-ings due to the war, and are preparing pre-paring spring collections for January Jan-uary display. To overcome the difficulties dif-ficulties of trsvel and shipping which have resulted from the war, mldseason models havs been brought to New York by clippers to be shown to buyers here. A few designers have made flying trips to contact the American market, while others work through representatives In New York. New spring clothes taking shape In Paris are going to put more emphasis on practicality and less Wl Jrtwtily, say wpreasntstlvaa of leading designers. The American woman's tastes and needs In clothes will be considered carefully. care-fully. Dress and Jacket costume suits of very lightweight wools are expected to appear. The fashion world Is looking for a "newsy break" In hats from SchlaparellL (Shorter haircuts and hats to fit them may be part of the Paris spring mode, since gas masks won't accommodate long hair necessitating hairpins and mobilization has caused shortage short-age of hairdressers.) Designers are working under stringent wartime handicaps In preparing the collections. Tm gadgets and accents for which Paris la famous are less plentiful than they were, a number of tailors have been mobilized and workrooms are chilly for lack of , coal. Seamstresses, bundled la sweaters, sometimes work by flashlight. A number of American buyers, who missed the midseason collections, collec-tions, say they have made pass- Krt arrangements and expect to In Paris In January to view the spring shows. They plan to go by clipper or by one of the ships of the United States line, which has announced tha beginning of bimonthly bi-monthly sailings to Italian ports at the first of the year. One of the most interesting phases of Paris' battle to maintain main-tain her place on the International J : s , i . . 'I t Pans putt pockets on clothes for war year, whan everybody h earryinj antra gadgets. Here Is Schiaperelfi version In softly draped black satin added to a dull mat crepe dress. About tha biggest pocteh yet appaar on this black Schiaparalli coat. Their leather flaps and lining repeat tha edging on tha felt tricorne and tha leather buttons and belt. fashion front has been the sending send-ing of several groups of clothes to New York for display to American buyers. One was Bruyere's collection col-lection af youthful, wearable clothes, cut on a slim, straight, shorfcaklrted silhouette Its only wartime influence was found In eccastonal military touches. |