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Show '' JjL By Mme. Frances.- H I The Famous Creator of Fashions H TN a letter from a soldier in the trenches one 1 J reads -with interest that after the battle the 1 men took hot baths and put on clean linen . ' fl l for dinner or whatever their evening meal is J I m called. This is a lesson for the ovcr-enthu- Ji r mm siastic woman who, with a mistaken sense of . HB patriotism, imagines that by not dressing for V Mm dinner she is aiding her country. m&L IS Now as a matter of fact, never did the Jru Ik world need moral support as much as it does Ju IB' at this moment, and when generals of armies W J Ik consider that one of the important factors in - Iff turning out good fighters is to insist upon hL I careful grooming under the most adverse cir- iffel IK cumstances, then it behooves the' women at II home and abroad to prove themselves equally If good soldiers. & .vIa IE But while it is important to supply one'd .t', 1 wardrobe with a sufficient number of gowns 1? 1 for all (the necessary changes of the season, as iWi- V ' Mm I have mentioned before, the demi-evening ;- II frock rather than the very full evening gown Iff is more favored. This seems very reasonable, VtliV II as the change from a day costume to a low yjrh rr CU' seevcess gwn is 50 radical that even the 'r I m most temperamental woman cannot fit her X&f$ I I mood to such extremes in dress. This is an vfiii'z I M important thought in designing frocks, for the I K real art in dressing is to consider, not alone a pfe' I ft woman's type, but her very soul, if she would Mm One of the American woman's greatest Itt charms is her adaptability and yet it is often Vl-lljl II' her undoing as far as dress is concerned ; for IK if fashion dictates a certain mode she can ad- Vk J-'i' . 'lis K ! 1 Utility and Charm in jffijb), I wB? Demi-Dinner Gowns .vX ' . I y(L Adaptable Devices in the Quite Vp Modern Wardrobe as Reflected Mv the Newest Evening and 1 1 r JU&t lierself to il until her oxni individuality is 8g completely submerged. , , Take, for instance, the very short skirt. Rose-Colored n, t i -it, , ... there is not ono in a hundred to whom it is Velvet Demi-Dinner Gown, becoming, but because some extremists have with Ecru Lace 'Circular Cape, maintained that this was the fashion, women of all ages and sizes have made themselves ob- jects of ridicule to the world in general, bene- Tike Fashion Forecast The demi evening gowns and the reversible cloaks with satin or velvet on one side and fur on the other, to be worn either in the afternoon or the evening, are two modes that will be much seen this coming season when it is fashionable to be practical. ' Ono Hundred Fifty-Six 2Lr West Forty-Sixth Street. New York City. , fitiug only the caricaturists, as far as I can . see. I have always insisted that even the street gowns should be of a graceful length, and now that conservation of cloth is a ncces- -rBS Purple ingenious arrangements of buttons, etc., JgiT Charmeuso have given- the necessary play for the feet Tr- Demi-Dinner Gown, without detracting from that air of ladyhood with Dyed Purple Lace Sleeves for which the woman of distinction is noted, and Moyen Age Waist Effect. For thc dinner gown, therefore, the first requisite is a length of line to which the lovely Newspaper Feature Service, 1018. emi-Dinner Gown, stuffs of the season lend themselves. A charming charm-ing frock that may be donned for the afternoon after-noon and serve for an informal dinner frock is of black velvet made with straight lines and buttoned with black velvet buttons almost to the bottom of the gown. The picturesque touch to this otherwise severe gown is given by the quaint deep collar of net edged with Irish lace and embroidered in a design of leaves in gray worsted dyed like the net and lace, an attractive shade of gray. The cuffs match the collar and with the sash of black and silver metal ribbon, complete the costume. A purple charmeuso lends itself to this type of frock, which has a moyen age waist - IS Black Velvet Afternoon . f3 Gown, with Black M tv and Silver' Metal effect lined with' a bright, brick-colored chit- ' fon. The sleeves and under arm pieces are of Wk lace, dyed'-thc same purple shade. A girdle of the charmeuso is embroidered in purple and brick-colored wool with tassels to match. Another design is carried out in an em-erald em-erald green charmeuse, the lace cape being dyed the same rich shade of green. A novel touch to relieve the severity of the gown is given in an apron of long green chenille jH strands extending across the front. A con-trast con-trast is obtained in running a black and sapphire metal ribbon through the lace, fin-ished fin-ished with two large sapphire blue tassels. jH As any of the gowns described on this page may be worn at a late- afternoon affair it may jH interest my readers to see one model essen- , tially for night wear, though still in tlio demi-evening demi-evening dress style. Rose-colored velvet is the material chosen, softened by a circular cape jH of ecru lace ; a brilliant note being added by a JM girdle of garnets finished at the side by largo garnet ornaments and strands of the garnet beads. "With afternoon gowns, however, it is jm-portant jm-portant to wear a wrap that is a protection, and for this purpose I am making cloaks that jH are reversible. For instance, one in fur to be jH worn in the day changes into a satin or velvet garment with a fur lining for evening. This nractical idea may be so successfully carried out that the problem of the woman desirous of dressing well on a war income is practically JM solved. 1 ' 1 |