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Show P KfiBl X.pppppV. vB SL'y'i v tie. IPbbpjP mw JfiyL ..H y .fci-jJ't'v 3bppp ppW HB pjl1 jppppppppppPMT.ppBf Af -fif1plmftTff5iA1pfpTVf3j'V-PL-ri vJ'JiyttiBHBliiiK . pflBpEpplpvVnppppppPK' " - V ppH 4 ''w?paS9lHppp9pRFUflpnEpBppHpEBHpppp pH1pppBpyiippElkpppppppppplp&',)p4appp9 pppppppI J fpoTii,WkKllineto I'KTiee-.'buLA.Tikle'S I M.a3Lbe,"Kevealed I Woman Now Tapers Up-f Up-f ward, Not Downward-I Downward-I Bustles, Hoop-Skirts W and Actual Wings Over IK the Hips Make Skirts m Flare in Varied Effects. fVQNTEMPLATING tho billowing MM Douffancy of costumes at all Hw j tho openings, theso days, ono Wt remembers -whimsically, tho Blburnltiff question which absorbed the Kynlnd of woman through seasons and aifeasons, but recently: "Are skirts go-BiDff go-BiDff to bo wider?" All things come to Ker who watts, and now tho Individual jTwfco pined for petticoats, may revel Hl& them to heart's content. Skirt Hfero certainly wider and it Is likely Hithat they will grqw wider, and still pHMrtder; for the passion for blllowlnoss jHrb&s consumed tho style-makers and Kvry new frock put forth seems to Hkcqulre a few moro yards of fabric. I9&' The next quory, undoubtedly will bo: JB'Aro skirts going to bo longer? But jLthat contingency need not bo antlcl-jiited antlcl-jiited while skirts aro still wide; for Hvldth and length do not harmonize, jBftceordlng to artistic standards where jHwstume Is concerned. jK That woman's sllhouotto has changed jBbsolutely In tho last year Is a fact JKot to bo denied. Not only have skirts Khsmgod, but everything has changed Sid the shadow femininity casts In veraed. Not long ago It was the jHmdow of a peg tapering toward tho IHpttreet point; now It Is a peg upsldo jjHfotrn, revolving on Its head Instead of IIBf tip. All lines flow outward from IHiead to feet whereas .only a few aea-Hons aea-Hons ago they taporod downward. K' n order to give full craphasla to tho Htew silhouette fashion has concon-jKrt-ted upon tho skirt. It is looped, iBKjUffcd, rippled, gathered, pleated, Bounced, adorned with bowknots and fKflovrer festoons and loaded to tho last Btafetjr point of its carrying efficiency Hlth trimming; tho bodice is almost ISIieglocted. It matters little what sort HKvf bodice ono has (provided the sleeves jHtro long) If one's skirt Is voluminous JMenough to be Impressive and Individual IjWenough to strike a now note of inodlsh-jVbtM. inodlsh-jVbtM. Frocks with . sklrLs of over-Wowerlng over-Wowerlng elaboration show llttlo sur-.fcillco sur-.fcillco bodices of tho simplest type aBust two bits of fabric crossed over jHlhe bust, a tucker or a chemisette flll-KBng flll-KBng In tho V in front, and clone sleeve.-) ?So the wrist. This apparent ncgloct of Hfhe bodico is a foature of smartness flpn this yeai-s fashions; a coral velvet Hwanco frock just out of tho hands of IBBeor, h&s a skirt measuring six yards ijBround tho anklo with plontlful gath-SRtrs gath-SRtrs at tho waist and Iwo over-hanging fBtbliers edged with gold lace. The lyBtoAlce Is as simple as a camisole HBmplcr, for it Is minus even laco trlm-fclng. trlm-fclng. Two strips of tho brilliant corai 0Helvot aro crossod at front and back iBta surplice effect, The edge of. the 5Blvet makes a dficp'V decollotago at Hont and at back, and tho outer edges V tho strips fall Just over tho should-B,-leavlng tho arm quito bare. These JWjfptrtmmcd strips of velvet are faced plth coral colored satin and when tho Cuiof Coal S . 1 ' ' ' t,h.eCoYsr3ec'L , V- V ' '. Tlare ' arm Is raised ono notes that there la an under-bodico faced up to tho armpit arm-pit with velvet. A golden roso Is tucked at tho glrdlo. Wlnfrs-Now Iyocatcd At Tho Hips. Man has likened woman to an angel, and thla year tho angel has sprouted wings; but they grow iu a queer placo at tho hips. Paddlc-shapod attach ments of caponct boned or wired around (ho blade-edge, aro attached at cither sldo of the waistline, up-porllng up-porllng looped" up skirt drapory and ivhon skillfully arranged theso out-'sprcad out-'sprcad wings ono dislikes to call them paddle wheols, though tho similarity sim-ilarity between femininity and forry boat docs suggest itself glvo the 1 ':&; lx$$&& x ' Hh WSJ? - 3 i M 1 Rfei Koop3 sie iist "Re soiled. "La "to Give tte wearer an airy, daintily poised appearance appear-ance that Is rather captivating. One of tho new wing frocks is pictured today a dancing frock of cream laco. pink satin and rich brocade In Nattier blue, rose and wisteria shadings. The wing attachments at the sides aro plainly apparent in tho picture. In this Instance they are of wired capenot covcrod over wltti tho brocado and ruffles of. tho cream laco hang from tho edgo ovor a gathored tunic of tho brocade. Tho underskirt Is of pink satin and is outrageously short when ono considers where It actually stops, tho flounce of cream laco below permitting per-mitting very frank glimpses of pink silk hosiery. But this manner of eking out tho dance skirt with transparent fabric Is a fcaturo of the season and so many frocks of this alarming brevity aro observed that doubtless the stylo will bo soon as matter of fact as that of bathing dresses, over which nobody makea any to-do nowadays. Tho wing attachments of thla frock aro added separately, over tho skirt, but In many cases, particularly whon tho skirt Is of tulle or laco, tho wired wings aro set on underneath, and the airy fabric Is puffed and draped ovor them. A conservative expression of the new sllhouctto is illustrated In the afternoon aft-ernoon frock which claims black vol- vot, black laco, black tulle and Jot for its component parta. Theso airy black and whltq frocks aro cxtromcly fash-lonablo fash-lonablo now and evory well supplied wardrobe includes a costumo of this sort. Tho model pictured, a Jenny creation by tho way, shows tho longer skirt that Jenny is advocating, though to bo suro the length is only suggested, a short underskirt of satin showing through tulle. This underskirt and tho bodico part way up aro of white I satin, tho top of tho bodice being of whlto not. Outor skirt and bodice are of black tullo, strips of black laco alternating al-ternating with a wldo band of black velvet on tho skirt. Tho panels of black velvet cross this skirt trimming, but tho panels aro stitched down on tho tulle, roally forming part of tho skirt Itself. Thcro aro four of them, two In front and two at tho back. Tho bodico has two trlrnmlng-straps of vol-vot vol-vot supporting Jot banding; and these strips pass ovor tho. shoulder from back to front of tho Jot girdle. Tho Jet banding Is of black gauzo embroidered embroid-ered with tiny beads and a bit of It has been set In at tho-top of tho skirt, wg' fci Close Bodice wRr? S'Ierder A.-prrv3 3 and s7 Milady Cgl5. Ltie Ppope- Sliadow over tho gathored tullo to lengthen the waistline. Under the tullo bodice, above the Jot girdle, Is tho one touch of color In the costume a strip of wide ribbon In pastel Roman stripes, black-odged at 'tho. top. Tho tullo sleeves are given a pretty finish at tho wrist by velvet cordlngs which curvo upward around a slash. Part of tho I smartness of this costumo Is duo to tho stunning black velvet hat, toppod with ostrich plumes and a cross ostrloh aigrette. The Bustlo Grows More Obvious. Last spring ono or two couturiers tried to launch the bustlo and thcro aro signs which point to its establishment establish-ment in favor for tho winter season. Ono of. theso signs Is tho very authoritative authori-tative llttlo tallleur of Arnold, pictured today. Tho coat of this costumo la quaintly reminiscent of tho seventies, with its curved .back, flttcd waistline and godet flare over tho hips. Tho tallleur Is of falllo silk In a new marine blue shade, with black velvet buttons and a collar of beaver fur. Tho hell sleeves, button-trimmed, are characteristic char-acteristic of tho reincarnated stylo, and tho tall-crowned hat carries out tho idea, also. Much moro conservative In style, yot also rcminlscont of earlier times about tho middle eighties is a tallleur of black velvet striped daintily in white. "Whlto velvet striped with black in more deflnlto design Is used for trimming on collar, rcvor and cuff, and thero is also a muffler collar of gray fox which may bo snapped closely about tho throat tho revers lapping over each other to form a high neck-fastening. neck-fastening. These revors and the cuffs on tho boll sleeves are faced with leaf green velvot. Variety is achieved by placing tho material cross-wlso in tho coat-jpeplum, and by trimming pcplum and skirt with-bias bands of tho strlpod velvet; tho bias striping In each case running a different way. With this costumo is worn one of tho high-crowned sailors of black beaver 'pjJJJjfl trimmed with folded bands of block lpjjjjjjB and grcon ribbon and a long palo tan ' plume, put on in tho dashing "Lady llljjjjjjjjjja Gay Spanker" style. i t 3Iilady Mullled In Her New Coat, ) IH Russian ideas predominate in new 'lpjjjjja coats for wear over dressy frocks. 'fll Necks aro swathed high In now. muffler lliH collars of fur and fur is added gen- ) JH orously at cuff and coat border. A stunning coat of seal brown satin, 'pjjjjjjl trimmed with Hudson seal is typical 'H of the exclusive style In afternoon H wraps Just now. The upper part of IH this coat Is slmplo and close-flttlng jlH though not tight by any means, and IJH tho wide, gathored skirt portion is set M on with a tiny cording at tho natural ' waistline. Thcro is much fullness at il the back, hanging from tho shoulder il nnd tho edgo of the garment falls ll short of tho skirt edgo by sevoral 'H Inches. Theso voluminous, fur H trimmed coats, short onough to show ll tho feet, aro coquettish and youthful and havo a most dashing swing. Tho ll model pictured expresses tho now ll silhouette perfectly, and its width of jH skirt and shortness, over tho frock, :l are features of Its correct stylo. Not- H able Is tho ornament of fastening at ' tho'waistllno mado of dull silver rings IH and braid straps, Tho rings slip ovor IH elongated silver buttons on tho coat. M |
