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Show AKEFUL discrimination should bo exercised in the selection r of a hat, so that it -will bo appropriate for the costume for j which it is to be worn. For the suc cess of one's suit or dress depends j upon the selection of the hat. Use ! " keen judgment and discretion in. buying buy-ing your winter hat. There is no such word as s can't" in the milliner' vocabulary. .Simplicity is the watch- ! word of this season's millinery crca- j tions. A hat may be simple in design uu yob 11H.V0 an mo requisites 01. j smartness. Choose a stylo that will bring out your best points. Unless you are strong minded you will not ! be able to restrain from buying more than one hat, for there is such a j 1 marvelous variety in the shapes, ma- j tcrials and trimmings this season, you ; will hardly be satisfied with just one ; model, . ; There are so many fantasies in this i season's chapcaux that original ideas ! in millinery arc often secured from art books and pictures of the peasant-! ry. of Europe. Don't hesitate to appropriate ap-propriate any idea fpr your own use, because- the best style ideas are procured pro-cured in this way and then modified to suit one's individual taste. This fall hats are not the fly-away kind, but fit the head much as a man's Dcrbv hat docs. In fact, I wouldn't bo surprised jf modified Dcrb- hats would be worn. It seems safe to assert that hats will remain small and medium sized for fall. There are several new adaptions of tho sailor shape Avifch cither straight,' rolling or slightly drooping brim. The hats, have rather narrow brims and are elongated in shape so as to conform to the lines or tne ncaci. Tho first really cool day brought I out the first velvet hats of the season. Did you get a glimpse of any of tho perky iCinichc hats, many of which are tilted ridiculously high on the back with the trimming placed under the brim, or with high trimmings? A bine Kiniche shape had a large velvet bow placed slantwise under the brim. Another of brown velvet had the hat turned up squarely in the back and had a large tulle bow against tho hair. An Amorican Beauty on the brim gave ."just the right touch of color. "Volvct, Panne velvet, plush, hatters' plushy silk, satin, moire, certain kinds ot vestings, silk duvctiuo and new silk duvet cloth in plain and fancy will be used in the soft crowns and draping of hats. Warm, rich, subdued shades onlivcncd by high colored trimmings will prevail. It is needless to mention black, be-, cause tho all black hat always is in prominence regardless of " the season. New soft shades of bluo, brown, os-nnpinllv os-nnpinllv fntfi de nifrro. crroeu. mimic and "wine aro 'well represented in the millinery color card. Whito plush and moire hats aro particularly smart for formal wear. When trimmed with tho now windmill bows, which aro placed .iauntily on the center, back or on tho. sides. Windmill bows aro noticed on numbers of the imported hats. They aro of tulle, or silk bound with velvet harmonizing or in contrast to the hat. An elongated turban which is good to wear with a tailor suit was made entirely of satin ribbon. Tho narrow upturned brim was covered with folds of ribbon loosely knotted in the front. Two high wired ends of ribbon with a soft knot at the base were placed in tho back. Another smart hat had a crown or purple ribbed silk cut on the bias. A plaited bow of mauve velvet was laid on the crown a little to tho one side. Two mustard colored feathers stood erect in tho back. For carj fall there arc excellent models in exact copies of the student styles in vogue in 1S30. These are shown in . velvet and usually trimmed with an extravagantly tall pompon of coque feathers. The hat with the visor brim is as sured ii ceriiiiii uu;rut! ui. pupuiciriL.y. These hats resemble jockey caps and arc often noticed with the crown of ribbon and tho brim of velvet trimmed trim-med with little wing-like loops of ribbon in front and on the sides. There is every reason to believe that soft felt hats will bo in high regard. From 'fashion 's standpoint the crown-less crown-less or transparent crown of tulle is tho newest fad, with the brim of velvet or plush. Ono cannot enthuse too much about ribbons. Thero will bo two-toned effects in faille and two-toned effects in double faced satins and faille moire. Many ribbons have velvet figures or Jlowors on satin foundations. Egyptian offects in volours and uncut velvet with dark backgrounds and vivid colorings will be decidedly fashionable. The principal shades in these ribbons will be cerise, dicrry, deep blue and gold. Huge bows will be made of "Roman stripes and cross stripos, in width from 6 to 10 i.uchcs. Revolutionary striped ribbon in red and green or other smart combinations aro seen on a wide range of exception-, ally clover models. Hats with narrow bandings of plain and fancy grosgrain ribbon in gay colors are another of fashion's whims. Tho little velvet and tulle latches arc : pretty addition to tho autumn millinery, mil-linery, 'and these chin straps aro remindful re-mindful of the Tommy Atkins war bon-ui't. bon-ui't. tho most entrancing when worn villi small hats and give a coquettish, demure air to the wearer. Following in the wake of the cib-bon cib-bon craze are the wings, quills and feathers. Quills have met with a tremendous tre-mendous success. A smart tailored hat had four, quills of various colors attached ono over the other with just enough of each showing to form an unusual color scheme. On ono jaunty sailor the quills wore bent in curved effect and encircled tho brim, with two ' extending outward at the back. Long, short, wide, and in fact anv kind of quill used singly or in (.'lusters decorate the most exclusive hats. Numidi and osprc.v, Paradise and coqno, chpociallv the latter in high slanting pompon effect?, arc especially pronounced. Feathers :ire shown in many novelties. novel-ties. Decidedly now arc tho stencilled oll'eots in liar, feathers. Imagine a beautiful ostrich designed with a brilliant bril-liant huc.d rose, Mnlinos arc all the rage and velvet and moire hals aro invariably trimmed with mnl inc. Flowers aro all laid Hat on tho brim and are of silk, velvet, or plush and arc indeed very attractive in their deep rich colors. you can't fi nl any better trimming for tho tailored or semi-tailored hats than the up-standing feather bands, but don't caricature yourself by woaring anything that imitates closely an Indian's In-dian's head dress. Height is emphasized in the new trimmings. Long pointed wings and narrow Pocahontas bands with Alsatian Alsa-tian effect of -wings will provo a strong fcaturo for millinery trimming. Pnlm leaf effoctH and peacock effects in Pompadour Pom-padour colorings aro another vory now method of trimming. Goura and imitation goura in bands and high effects arc verj- prominont. For tho womau who motors, thero are soft little polo ahaped felt hats, and rainproof hats so cleverly fashioned that vou would never dream thoy wore waterproof. Silk hats stitched to keep proof . hats ho cleverly fashioned that you would never droam thoy wcro wa-I wa-I ter proof. Silk hats stitched to keep I their shapo and hats to match the motor mo-tor oats are mado nioro becoming than we have Mpen in previous fcnsnriH' mo tor'hats. As the small hats arc in vogue Tcils will pl.'iy an important part as a millinery mil-linery accessory. Accordion plaited chiffon veils, lace veils, with plain net in front, and many new mesh veils arc shown. Hat pius conic in pairs and are about four inches long. These are placed directly di-rectly in front about four inches aparr.. Hat pins with brilliant tops, frc3h water wa-ter pearl tops, or plain gol i with the wearer's initials aro in harmony with the present mode of trimming. If you have any corsage pins with pearl headed head-ed tops, you will find them just the right length for use as hat pins. Tf t lie home milliner has a little courage and carefully inspects oven some of the best models, she will find it quite possible to copy UK,-of UK,-of the shops keep helps ftHj milliner. But when raaldaB'' sure it is one adaptable fH The IG-ycar-old miss looH,' youthful styles, but tkoojKu not like to hoar it soma sfyBj too youthful for tho immHf though she may look as jB! daughter. |