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Show p-T-jHKRE are so many "don'ts" in I Fashion's realm that w-c are B cmpbasiza the "do's." How much pleasantcr to hear ' "what to wear," than "what not to wear." 'Die discriminating woman who luiuws Ijcst how to combine good lns!c with originality and individuality will rejoice at the immense assortment of new fabrics, colors and styles from wliioli io choose. The one who dresses best on a limited income gives prime consideration to the time and place for wearing each gown and eliminates the extreme in style, cut, material and "The consciousness of being appro-priatcly appro-priatcly dressed . makes one's spirit rise." How true that is, though some who do not comprehend the fair sex may deny this. "We have been entranced with the Oriental and Bulgarian effects and now we note a tendency toward the lovely Pompadour styles. From what source the modes of today are reproduced it is H' difficult to say, as they reach us in such n modified form so as to moet our west-em west-em needs. Many of the styles in vogue suggest the costumes worn during the Hj roign of Louis X.AT the Ninichc hats, outstanding flounce dresses, fichu, and the floral decorations adorning tho uven-ing uven-ing dresses, arc all suggestive of the Louis XVI period. fl The peasantry' of Europe will-be bigh- ly complimented if they realize that the artists who designed this winter's mod-els mod-els have gone to their costumes for an inspiration. The silhonctto will remain about the same as it is now. If it. becomes more exaggerated it will recall the pic-tures pic-tures of a famous Dutch painter who painted the women of his day as if they wore inverted hoop skirts. Thoro may be only sevou original col-ors, col-ors, but from the enormous selection of soft, toned shades presented to us we can hardly grasp that fact. Brown leads in favor, seal, tobacco, mouse, caramel shades of brown are noticed in Hj women 's costumes. Bronze and castor ehades are also likeable. Blue in seven Hl new different shades is .shown. Then we have medium, dark and light taupe, greenish grays reds, purples, and green in dozens of now subdued colorings. Roman gold is a good color for special Hj purposes. Deep purple and myitlo blue, Hj Persian green and brick rod are greatly advocated. Contrasting colors are grout-ly grout-ly favored in well made modes, Coats aro usually made up on rough j materials. Notwithstanding the warmth and thickness of these materials, they are remarkably light in weight. Chinchilla, Chin-chilla, cheviot, bouclc cloth, zibeline, novelty woolens, heavy pile fabrics, velours ve-lours and imitation furB are oxpectcd to hold full sway throughout the season. sea-son. There is no suggestion of tightness about, tho cloak. Though there is diversity di-versity in form and length, three-quarter and seven-eighths are considered best lengths for utility coats. The practical outer garments havo loose JRaglan, or kimono or deop set-in sleeves with big cuffs and high adjustable collars col-lars which may be closed tight at tho neck or worn in a soft roll. The fronts are usually rounded and the fullness which is caught in with a deep band helps preserve the straight tieure line in most of the outer garmeuls. Large pockets and belts are seen on most of the models. The models seen this season may be termed "inspirations "inspira-tions of newness." Though dark colors col-ors prevail, tho linings aro usually in vivid colors. Velvet, brocades, silks and the many fancy coats have chiffon covering tho silk 'linings. These chiffons desigued with flowers add charm to the garment. gar-ment. Imagine an cvoning wrap lined in blue chiffon printed with natural ' looking orchids made moro in tho shape of a cape than, a coat, for it was sleeveless, enveloping the entlro form. Owing to its graceful lines, there was enough fullness over the shoulders. The material was brocaded velvet embroidered em-broidered in soft color ana was finlslied with a collar of white fox. The Medici collar is added to many of the sumptuous -evening wrnps. Tho most elegant, mantles aro very short and usually havo tho sleeves cut in one with tho b'ody of tho coat. SUITS. Of course you will havo a new suit. But. what kind? Why, any kind you have set your heart on. There aro only a few salient points you will havo to consider. The coat must be loose fittings fit-tings a blouse effect is becoming with a large waist line. Some suggestion of fullness over the hips, and if j'ou will havo your skirt lifted-up-in-front kind narrowing toward tho bottom. .Nearly every tailored suit has a break at. the 'waist line, or below, and is encircled with a belt or fancy sash knotted in front with long ends'. Tho question is not if you will havo a belt or not, bur, what kind, for there is a rage for sashes and girdles and dozens of styles to select se-lect from, Tt. may take some time lo decide on tho low waistcoat but no suit seems complete without a. waistcoat, which is loose fitting and reaches mi'to a bit below tho normal waist, line. Dark suits aro enlivenod by bright waistcoats, waist-coats, A clever idea is lo buj' some hnnd5omo brocaded material in the upholstery up-holstery department, and make your waistcoat of it, in that way procuring something a little different. Tf you have any old-fashionod buttons, why uso tluenC Self piping, silk cords manipulated in twists, and quirks, fancy braids and fur bandings arc appropriate for all except the strictly tailored Buits. Tho hems of somo of tho skirts are faced with a contrasting color, while other skirts have the liem turned back on the right side much as a man s pegtop trousers. A favorite style skirt has the fullness drawn up at the waist line with a rufllo a novo the belt. T refrain from mentioning mention-ing the new trousor skirts, because I don't believe you would wear (hem anyway. any-way. Plaid coats with skirts of plain material, ma-terial, or plaid skirts with plain coats have not as yet become ordinary. Highland High-land plaids are most popular just at present. For dressy suits velvet in different dif-ferent shades with chamois vests, collars col-lars and cutis are decidedly ultra. WAISTS. Waists to wear with tailored suits are of crepe do chine, plaid silk, soft silk, plain or fancj- silk jcrsoy, and lingerie waists. A new material used in lingcrio waists is book-muslin, an old fashioned material which we call by a French name, the back and sleeves of soft silk models aro cut in one. Many of the waists are made with a basque, Bolero blouses with a peplum in the back are a good choice. The strictly tailor made waist of tub silk and cropo has proved its value too much to bo discarded. dis-carded. Long sleeves finished with frilly ruffles seem to bo tho thing. Tho better bet-ter grade waists aro usually fitted with Bayadere sashes, the yokes are adjustable adjust-able and are sometimes buttoned to the waist with small novelty buttons. Dressy waists are of not, chiffon, filmy laces and beaded net. Unless tho waist is white it usually harmonizes with tho suit. Printed silks, modern art designs, are used in waists. Waists are made with simulated vest effocts. Some exclusive ex-clusive models havo the waist In vestlike vest-like form with the sleeves in another color, usually- in printed material. Fichu effects for tho waist front, filled in with hemstitched ruffles, aro well liked. Fashion continues to set Its approval on the all-in-one dress season after season. sea-son. Simple one-piece dresses arc made so that they conform to all the stylo requirements. re-quirements. Wool poplins, wool crepes, serges, Jacquard effecis, wool brocades, enon go and soft crepes and silks arc tfic most suitable. A costume of tan and brown plaid had chamois collars and cuffs, the belt was in one with the peplum which only was at one side in the back. The bishop bish-op sleeves were set in kimono fashion. The skirt was slightly draped in front with an in-set of chamois which reached to the knees. Another dress of bluo serge had a wide sash of black silk lined in gay stripod silk. This was swathed around the hips and tied in front. The waist oncned over a vest of the silk and was very blousy in effect. EVENING GOWNS. Jet is used extensively on the evening even-ing gowns. Not one kind of beads, but nearly all kinds are beaded on t&lle. Tulle dresses with butterfly sashes in round dancing lengths aro cspecially sought after by the younger contingent. Words seem inadequate to describe the lovely materials. First and foremost aro the elaborate lace gowns which are niado over Pompadour silk. Tho corsages cor-sages aro very docolleto and nearly sleeveless. A fetching gown, which brought forth oxclamations of admiration admira-tion had a skirt of pink metallic brocade, bro-cade, with a bodice of filmy lace studded stud-ded in beads over flesh colored tulle. Tho now poise of the figure which so." call the eighteenth century droop, was emphasized by tho fullness of tho slcjrt in front and the wide girdle. Strands of beads harmonizing wtih tho gown aro draped over tho shoulder and caught up in front with a beaded ornament. Another dress of pink crepe has the waist trimmed with beaded bands which came from under tho arms and ended on tho side front. Strands of beads oxtended over the shoulder and trimmed the sleeves and low V neck. Tho bottom of the shirt was edged with a beaded band as also was tho train. Tho trains on evening skirts are narrow and draped in such a way that they can be caught up in front' to simulate a drapery whon not in use. Accordion plaited dresses arc a dc- liirht for those who indulge- in ihe now style of dancing, and as flancing is the chief amusement at present, we predict pre-dict that accordion plaited dresses will be seen more than any other stylo for evening wear. Could anything be lovelier love-lier than a dress of accordion plaited green chiffon? Over the cbiflH ! two flounces of white malina JK i veiled with black rnalinc lacoB I ond flounce being about scvH shorter than the lower one'B idea was carried out in tho 1q9' lace bodice. |