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'i,n,:,h'1 riv.K f ; Eh0 nuv.s and u,.- g00d lorlune of Riolst veather. we can scarcely believe the talcs of suffering that the rim-i." rim-i." k riders . ndun- In the hot summer days, when no rnln hns fallen for months and blinding sands f!y before withering BlroCCOfl from the south; When every water wa-ter hole is di-y Hnd they ride famished for hours before reaching th secret BpringB Which only a few men know. For our- selves, through pleasant weeks, wi lid anv time .juafi" a tool drink from iter locketH on rocky shelves, or bathe In fonts of crystal water that gathers In basins ba-sins among the cliffs Great Comb Reef. All this land between thi' Elks and the Colorado river has been tacitlv partitioned for the use of a few cattle-owners, and no BReep have ever been permitted to feed there, Thirty miles east Oi where we stand a wonderful rocky barrier divides the sheep land of the east from the cattle h.nd of the w-'st. It is tin great i ornb Keef that stretches In an unbroken line from the Elk mountains southward a hurt? rtred miles to vrizona. Except where the .Sun Juan river breaks through and Gvp- bUm creek euts It oil tile Navajo eser'll- tl'.n. Hi. i. Is miiIy mi,.- .h,, . wh'TM u an be crossed, and that Is Navajo pass a difficult break nei k .j.-iiie n,at we came through on our llrst day out from Bluff ''li From Ihll Comb Keef westward, the various va-rious "scopes of country" are called Barton's Bar-ton's land i round Lime creek th- nr-t Btri am running into the Bah Juan west of-comb of-comb wash), then comes Perkins's land e 'ending o i most of Clgareet mesa and Dead BuJ Hal; next, to the north, Is Freeman's land, while White canyon Is ai knowledged to be the cattle country of thC Scorn ps l-'urther north. Cooper anil Martin of Moab hold Dark canyon and have their rieadn,uarters at Sour Dough cabin, near the head of the canyon. Wonderful Gorge. Tins Is on? of the most wonderful gitges in the country, but we are unable to n OCh it. as the snow Is too deep In the Elk mountains for us to cross. Each man's scope of country Is rerpected by the others, md cattle that strsj are BOOn-er BOOn-er or later restored to their owners, one umiiPJ think that thus all these men would "Mini- to know the entire country; but we have three of them with US for our crew, outside of nu- guide, and not one of tin in ii is ever seap the bridges, in fact, we can tell a-story of one of these men who was temporarily in the lead during a drenching drench-ing rain, and li -t his way within half an hour bringing up our whole outfit on the brink of a frightful chasm And he was hardly a mile from his own headquarters. Hut there never was a time when ti r gulde. AI Scorup, fulled to direct the way uneri Ingly. Cascade Cavern. One night we slept In Ere. man's cave. B splendid refuge from the rain and wind W'c tailed It Cascade Cavern, for over the roof poin-.d a bounding sir. -am, and down the face of tho rocks beneath and from every ledge and ilm in the gorge below there fell a flood. A gale was l aging outside, but under the vast celling of this spacious apartment, our twenty animals ani-mals munched their grain In peace, while Wi bad room and to spare for our camp Are and tent and spent a merry evening In the flicker of the blazing boughs. Tin- place belonged to one of our men and was provided with lockers for supplies sup-plies and devices for storing grain while a dripping spring (n the darkest corner never failed to supply enough water for a hundred head of cattle even In the dry-est dry-est season. Reincarnation of Cave-Dwellers. it was the reincarnation of the cave-dwellers. cave-dwellers. Lightning flasln d among the opposite crags, and echoing thunder crashed and boomed for awhile among the rocky gorges; then the clouds parted and the moon llootlnl the w t cliffs with silver and sent a shaft of light Into the western end of the cave Supper was over pipes wrre lighted; It was the time for story-telling. The scene of an old-time old-time tragedy was only a few mllOS to tinsmith tin-smith among the lonely rook ridges that we had passed during th day. An Old Tragedy. Some years ago a cattle man of the Blue mountain country went to the bad Ctam-bllng Ctam-bllng and drink, cattle rustling, a row. and then he stole the horses of a friend and "pulled his freight'' westward with a companion toward the Colorado river and the Robbers" Roost bey Olid. A posse from Bluff City went in pursuit, among them the owner of the stolen horses, who was one of the leading citizens of that plate. They overtook them at Navajo pass when- their pursuers watched them eating lunch at the line spring at the foot of the trail and could easily have shot them as they sjat near the stolen animals But it seemed too cold-blooded and they planned to let them go further, where Up v could be surrounded ami perhaps taken ta-ken alive The owner of the horses could not llnd it In his heart to shoot his for-me) for-me) friend. Thev trailed tham up tio-Comb tio-Comb wash and 'by dividing their party ent them off; but the robbers b desp -rate climbing made a new trail up the cliffs and reached Clgaraet mesa. The next day their escape was learned ami again they were followed until the pursuers pur-suers reached the foot of a rocky steep. Eiarc a chip of wood wan found In their trat kf and on It was scribble 1; "For God sak.-. bill, dn't follor us any closter or we Will have to make a stand." But BUI. hot for the chase, flung tb" chip aside and Winchester in hand sprang up the ledges A shot rang out from above and Bill fell with a bullet hoh-clenr hoh-clenr through him. Again ami again the bullets came among the rest of the party, who eought cover until the firing was over Then they put the tng man on a horse and led the way homeward, while the thieves went on their way and were never heard of again. The Old Mormon Road. But that was a tale told In a cavern last night while the moonbeams struggled strug-gled with the htful blazes of the camp lire; and now we are out In God's un- shlnc ami the only clouds are a few tossing toss-ing among the Bars' Ears and those drifting across the Chuckaluck mountain moun-tain In th- dim distant southeast, in Arizona. Ari-zona. We must now press on. for tonight i",r , amp I- to be t Hi the arch of one "f the great stone bridges. We have il Idt n far, but are not the lea -l ImL lu- d or saddle worn, and are living down the Impression of the cattlemen that we must be temierteet. In fact, we Jolly them to sit square In their saddNn like we do. ami not trv any.gsldeseat work to relieve their weariness LUncll mi lb" stark rocks bv a water pocket In Kane gulcll This is one of the feeders of Grand gulch, of which we have heard much and are determined to explore, ex-plore, though 11 Is not oh the map ami until we. approach here dnl not know of Its existence. It Is said to be nearly 100 miles long and full of strange sights, and to contain many cliff dwellings trial have never boon examined. Near this spot we hoped to find two large Jugs thut our guide had said were dug out and hidden six years ago; but though the biding place was curiously Contrived', they wen- mlyslng ami w.-- went our way without them. Through Pcthless Timber. Again through nilb--- of pathbs- wood--, and over rocky breaks we ride. We are wandering far from the haunts of men, yet strangely we tlnd ourselves occa-Slonally occa-Slonally following the traces of an old wag. mi road! It i- ovi rgrown ami alime-t obliterated, yet on the rocky ledge- the grinding marks of chain-locked whco'.S are still to be nlalnly si en This proves to be the old Ksealante route which the Mormons broke through the wilderness In the autumn of 1879. A number of families from different pans of Utah had been called on "a mission" mis-sion" to colonize the San Juan country and I. nil been ml, I lhat somewhere In that remote region they weru to found a city which would some day grow to in .,f much Importance. Gathering together in Bscalante and Babbit valleys they made their way to the Colorado river which they cr09ed at what la now known us Han's Ferry Three Months to Make Five Miles. There ware ninety men. twenty-eight wom'-n and fifty-Sis children in the party and from the lime they arrived at a point where they could look down upon the Colorado river, it took them tine, months to reach lit- banks, to cross and ascend the cliffs on the opposite side, a distance In all of about Ave miles. Over a tor. of dynamite was used and the wagons had to be let down the cliffs with ropes. Meantime Mean-time ti f'-w were daring to venture Into tho land we now traverse, Flret a party of five, with their blank'-ts and foot! on their backs, t-xplor- d t ast vard for four days and then returned t" the ilvor. Next, twelve men made the attempt and were out ten days, but onlv thr : t tlv m got a little farther than the first puri. Then as Christmas approach d. foar determined men with two femall horses, a mule and u burro, resolved once more b find a way to the foot of the Blue mountains moun-tains plainly to be seen In the east. Only one of these men (George B. Ilobl now Us ing at Nepbli. hail shared in the previous previ-ous undertakings, tind no others of the ninety men would go this time. On the contrary, many tried to dissuade them from the venture, but by great labor and hardship they managed to maRe the pits-sage pits-sage and return In twenty-fou I' days. They barely escaped perishing from bun- . I 1 J ger, being without food for the last seven days. These were iho Unit white men to cross tills wilderness. It required another an-other three months to take the rest of the parlv to where they founded the present city of Bluff Faint Traces of Old Road. But these faint traces of the old wagon rpad that we now see an- fifty mTlea north of a direct line from Hall's Crossing Cross-ing to Bluff City, and why they should bae wandered to this out of the way ridge is a mystery until we are reminded that tho Impassable ( ire nd Guloh streti In i Its sinuous arms all this long way from the San Juan river, and that the spot where w had nooned was the first crossing cross-ing place to be found. The story of the sufferings of this band of pioneers will probaoly never be recounted, re-counted, but Hobbs can tell many a Strange tale of that fateful winter. He says that while In charge of this ex-j" ex-j" .lit Ion on3 Jume-j Mi nit claimed to have found a very' rich mini' of almost pure silver In the Navajo peak, and with Ernest Mitchell tried to persuade Mm to leave the party and go to locate it; but Hobbs felt that his duty was to remain with the people as their guide and refused to go with them when they crossed to the south side of the San Juan river In search of their fortune. However, as they did not return In a couple of months, ho Joined a relief party who went out to hunt for them. Their bones wore found about forty-flve miles from win t they had separated sep-arated from llobhs. and the mytcry of the Bllver treasure was never solved After a while, we leave this old toad and follow our milde over manv miles of Freeman's Cave. highland until he suddenly leads us down a rocky gorge, then out upon tie- brink of a broken canyon, ami shows uh a mile or so away the first of the great bridges. Eor the want of a real name, t has h. en called the little bridge, but as wo ap- I u h and mark Its beautiful lines, and Its gnat height Impresses us more ami more we resolve ' give li a tin.- that .shall abide with II; and In the name of tie- Commercial club that sent us out we ehrlsteii It tie- Edwin Bridg.-. This was In honor of Col. Edwin F. Holmes, ex-pn ex-pn sldsnl of the club ami one of tin.- first i . MjSvocate the t icpodltion. The foli."m morning, we painted In good black paint on one of the abutments of the bridge, wnere It will remain for majiy a year, the following inscription: o o i THE EDWIN BRIDGE. : Span. SK. feet. Height. Ill feet. : : Thickness. 10 feet. : Breadth. 30 feet. : : Altitude at base. G350 feet. : II l A CULMSR S T. WHITAKER. : C. W HOLMES, . Commercial Club Exploration : : Expedition : April 14. 1906. o o This bridge marks the junction of Armstrong i reek and a small stream that runs In from the north. It Is composed of a light ss Imon-colored sandstone, ami whlli tin- causeway narrows at the center of the arch to thirty feet, It Is much wider than that at each end and .icr the abutments. Th" Utile can: mi dn.ps off abruptly toward the main stream so that from the banks of Armstrong the bridge appeals to be half as high again. I hi t lu isway Is almost level, but holds a number of water pockets that are lilted at this tlm with delicious cool rain Water It Is not difficult to reach the top. and It may be true that men have rlddm across ft on horseback; but they would have to turn back by the time the crossing was made, as a chasm cuts the formation at the west epd Our .amp Is made against the overhanging over-hanging cliffs from which this great arch springs, and the evening and morning are spent In sketching and photographing thLs wonderful work of nature. Coveicd With Hieroglyphics. Hieroglyphics are on the walls, and structures built by the so-called cliff-dwellers cliff-dwellers are to be seen among the neighboring neigh-boring ledges. Though difficult of access they have already been looted, and only a f' w I rok-n pec--s of pottery rewarded our difficult and dangerous '.limb to reach them. For day-- and days we have seen such picture writing.-, on many a rock wall from the time we entered the sandstone country. All down Montesuroa canyon and Recapture creek on the way I.. BIQff, and ever since, these puzzling Inscriptions have been In view, and hun-dreds hun-dreds of the overhanging cliffs have given shelter to the ruins of structures made by man In some long forgotten age. AV'i have explored them by the score, and sometimes found Implements and weapons weap-ons that seemed of great antiquity. How many centuries these have lain among the deserted ravines it Is impossible to decide; Entii recently, they hac been regarded as the work of a few hundred years ugo. but i hi- investigations of the American Museum of Natural History In this very field have thrown the dales back to the stone age. or at nny rate to the glacial pill-.". Which at the latest was eighty thousand years ago Cave Dwellers. The American museum Is said to have decided that the people tailed the cliff dwellers were preceded by a -very different differ-ent race which they term the cave dwellers, dwell-ers, whose skulls were narrow ami long, while those "f the cliff dwellers were no- Ulblj flat The cave dwellers lived Bg.CS before bows and arrows or arrow points and spear le ads were used it known; and the cliff dwellers lived ages before the tine of metal was understood. In all our searches, and In those who have looked before US, no trace of metal has been found Stone axes, heavy and sharp, their willow handles bound with Strong The ColorsR.1 Augusta Bridge. cords of yucca fiber; arrow and spear gfl heads, fabrics of wattle, sandals sl'lll- kH fully woven of liber, fragments of linen LH c!oth. long pieces of beautifullv twisted black thread, strong and lustrous as silk nie. ies f feathered funeral robes, bone implements and needles; a" of these we s find, but never a lilt of copper or bronze .diwr or iron. Fragments or well deco- ggl rntd pottery are strewn over the land- scape for hundreds of miles. No place so hiiTu or steep, no place s.. bidden and deep, but pit - are to be found. Some of it Is of the crudest make and some ele- gant In design and decoration. xVo Unbroken Pottery. We we-i- not po fortunate as to find anv unbroken pottery, but others- who make a business of excavating for these things have formed collections of great Interest and value. For ourselves we did not care to dig to any great extent as tho task Is unpleasant and laborious. The relics art found beneath heaps of' fine dust, wood ashes and 111 smelling refuse, grubbing in which soon ceases to be a pastime. In a work Just published there Is an II-lustration II-lustration of a bom awl recently found In England, and the limestone deposit that has accumulated since It was burled prove that it must haw lain where it was found for at least a hundred thousand ears. In almost the first ruin we exam-Ini exam-Ini d I found a bone aw! exactly like the one shown In the Illustration And this was In a house that also contained sev-era! sev-era! well fashioned spear heads of flint and could not be confused with the relics of what are termed cave dwellers. "What line of reasoning can reconcile the close resemblance between the rude imple-meats imple-meats we discovered and those of the paleothitlc age lu England and France? Near Arable Ground. We found that every ancient structure of Importance was located near some arable piece of ground. As a general rule. If the land were In the canyon bottom. the house would be on one of the lower ledges of tho canyon wall; and If the ground were on the upper mesa the struc-ture struc-ture would be In the highest cleft beneath the rim. In the one case It would be neces-sary neces-sary to climb up to It from below; lu tho other to climb down to It from above. None of the examinations tended to prove H that any of these buildings were the usual habitations of the people who havo been called cliff dwellers. On the con-trary, con-trary, they nearly all indicated other uses. Th one In w hich the bono awl was found had a series of liber thongs hang-ing hang-ing from tho rafters, and thes could only suggest that they had once borne loads of Jerked meat (possibly buffalo), whlln the ever present piles of corn cobs worft what the rats and mice hail permitted to rentaln of the stores of maize on tho floor. Pieces of pumpkin shell added to the theory. These houses have stone. doors that once fitted snugly to the small JBl apertures, but could only be closed and. JBg fastened on the outside. The walls would have been absurd for purposes of defense. JBa as a stripling could have pushed them In IBg when new; and they were unnecessary for shelter In the deep recesses of theso JBl caves. Then It Is fair to presume that oven HBa these aborigines would rather be comfor-table comfor-table than otherwise; and many of these storehouses arc so constructed as to have BBb tortured any one who would sleep In HBl them, and as houses they would have HBa been unendurable. And those conditions HBh exist In places where It would have been HBb fasier to have built a comfortable room JBb than to have made the ones we saw. BBfl Results of Researches. The results of our researches lead to it least a few conclusions: That these people did not fashion their buildings for abodes, though in times of peril or HBfl liege they maj have been used for a re'- HBh Jgc: that win t v a number of these caches r warehouses arc gathered together, the HBb jorablned stores were protected by a fort. HBb through whose loopholes the surrounding country could be seen and missiles sent IgaillBt the foe, that where therr terlng dwellings adjoined the potterlear md kilns, the fortifications were only tho -nore Important, that the dwelling places if these thousands WAN on tho plains imong their ilelds and crops, in some frail ihi Iter that could be easily moved nnt has disappeared In the Lapse of time. It tvas n-Hr these storehouses that many of ;hem were burled, but probably only per-ami per-ami of Importance were laid away in the laborate manner that is sometimes dis- Burial Places. JAVJ Some of the structures seem to hav i-n built for burial places only. snd so HBH rlose to the storehouses that If th latter rad been used for homes it would hSVS Men extremely disagreeable to the llv- t 1 I ' MMfl Ing. It Is known that all uncivilized races abhor the dead ; tkJ wish to put them a far away tts possible. Even nt present. If a death occurs In the home of a Navajo, he destroys tlx- house and builds elsewhere; else-where; and nobody has found In nil his researches that any people bury their dead at home Rut it has been settled that nmniiK all hnrharic races the home of the (load has been a more suhstantl.il and enduring copy of his dwelling when alive. Then again the danger and ilii li ' reaching these well -nigh lna cessible places daily In limes of peace raiki' the cllfT dwelling theory more absurd It took up hours with ropes and scnllnp laddei- to reach snmc of ih m. and there we found no trace of water supply unless it wen- carried thither bj the Inhabitants If there v.i r. n riy while below In the pleasant meadows there was sunlight and rippling ?treams. Burial of Wairiois. Perhaps the only burials made in th.se fortified houses were those of warriors slain during a siege; but whatever conclusions con-clusions are reached on these baffllnc subjects, there are llki-ly to arise some exceptional evidences that tend to weaken any given theory For Instance. When I t Kl one of our men, as we craned our necks to peer Into a cavern hundreds of feet above, us that It was probably not a dwelling but a place the dead had been laid away In. and together we noted the enormous difficulty r f reaching thr plac from :inv dir. . turn, he exclaimed. "Good Iord. but I would hale to have been one of the pall-bear- era ! ' ' As to Hieroglyphics. As to the hieroglyphics pecked Into the toi,e walls throughout this region, they seem so simple that It I-- strange no one has studied them sufficiently to learn their meaning. MaJ Powell and some olhens seem to con'ecturc profound meanings In these sym'hollc serlbbllngs such meanings as the creation of the world and the genesis of man: while the author of a recent work ha? s.itlrtlled himself thai the l understood th- docimal system of numbers num-bers and were not only able to count up Into the tens of thousands, but could con-vr con-vr the Idea of any given number by a certain sign. Possibly th peoplt down our way were uneducated, for no such nbstruse ideas seemed Involved In the pictures we saw They seem never to have been Idly made, but most of them were intended to conves comparatively simple thoughts. I think thai many were brief epitaphs of those wli i had been sepulcheied among the ledges near by. and seemed to .show their exploits their nge and names, and possibly thi lr i aata or tribe. Others nppnrcntly named and im rlbod the cummunliv that llvi .1 In (in neighborhood. Still Others pointed the way to hunting grounds, and water holes on the trail thereto; uhi in one particular partic-ular instance a mass of wilting and drawings draw-ings which at flrl seem- d purposeless proved to be a fairly accurate map of a . large portion of the San Juan country from the Navajo land to the Henry mountains moun-tains and the record of a hunting dltlon to the latter region. In White Canyon. One of the most Important groups of buildings we saw was In White canyon, seyeral miles above the bridges and in one of the most tremendous gorges that the mind can conceive Caverns of enormous enor-mous extent were on every hand, and In the neighborhood of a Cottonwood gr..v.-we gr..v.-we came upon a cave settlement Of great extent and interest it s.iu in two parts the lower being but little above the level of the stream and consisting of a dosen or fio of houses, BO fashioned that it WSS difficult to decide as to their uses, whether wheth-er for the living or the dead Few Of them were lofty enough t" sit upright In, while some were so shallow that if the occupant were five feet long his toes would touch the celling In the onlv WftJ ho could lie down. lint th. placet would make excellent storerooms fr pot-ter pot-ter or food pupplle Th re iv. m much larger circular apartments, cemented Inside, In-side, hut so arranged with flues, shelving, etc.. that they must have been kilns cither for the baking or finishing of pottery pot-tery Many fragments of well-decorated jugs and basin's lay everywhere The interior in-terior of one, of the so round apartments was covered with scratched designs of the decoration most frc.jucntly found on the pottery, as though Ihe arllst had sketched out the patterns and i ft them f . .r less inventive artisans to follow Thefe was room in this one chamber for a dozen workers, and except that rats had partially filled the place, it was pretty pret-ty much as It must have been when abandoned aban-doned many centuries ago Well Arranged Fortress. Above this, and only to be reached by an ancient ladder sixty feet in length, j and then bv some hu.zur.lous i limbing, partly on steps hewn in the rock and partly by stairs' ..f cedar cemented Into the walls, was a fortress well arranged ;i 1 supplied with H.rthol's Many chambers cham-bers rang, d along the wall of the cave and other kilns were there, besides a cls-i.rn cls-i.rn and a spout to catch the witter of a spring thai once flowed In this upper gal-l.-rv . There w.-re fife-wells ale... where live cml'crs were preserved for extended periods among the ashes for It was no easy thing in those flays to kindle a flame with the fire-drill. If the small rooms referred to wore ever ' occupied by living pe.ipb , Ih' i.' Were acrnmmoil.'ltlniis In the lower village and upper stronghold for at least tWO hundred persons p.. Tore leaving the subjeet of cave dwellings, I must say that the theories 1 here advanced are but tentative and I formed from observations made here and In northeastern T'tah. Perhaps they would he modified bv further experience in other fields. The Caroline Bridge It Is noon Of Ihe following day before we give ,i ... i look at the Edwin bridge and pass down Armstrong canyon u the Caroline bridge. We now see thai scarcely scarce-ly a we.-k tan have passed since mighty floods coursed down all these upper gulchci- Mr Scorup says that II has happen, o sin. , he was here several weeks ago Fifteen and twenty feet above the canyon bed the waters have carried their mud and driftwood, and v. thank our lucky stars that we were safe elsewhere at the lime. But the 'I Is have rjone something more. They have washed awa thfl trail and where sagebrush Hats fe.r-mrly fe.r-mrly were there arc now deep water holes and quicksands, It 1h no easy task to make a new trail for oar disorderly caravan of twenty "horses and nflUleS, most of them heavily laden with burden? that r-nder their feet uncertain ae they wind among tangled trees and over plied up rocks, or splash their wav through quicksands and water holes We trv first one way and then another, now avoiding th h 1 1 : i r. i I..-. I in I. teak through a thick"! of .ak brush, and sometimes forced to r.-t in it In defeat to struggle along some more dangerous passage. Animals Bewildered. The bewildered pack animals crowd upon un and some of them restive and frightened, dash by and lake tho lead, Stumbling and sliding headlong over sand banks, while the packmen yell and swear In their attempts to control them. Finally the catastrophe comes. The Impatient Im-patient mule that carries our most precious pre-cious load of portmanteaus, containing all our films and personal effects, chooses .. wsy that we have, avoided, and after floundering In the quicksands, rolls over and sinks In a deep pool of water. The men dash In and quickly cut the pack ropes, and the mule scrambles ashore. Scenes in Southeastern Utah snorting and kicking and distributing his load In every direction With a final series se-ries of somersaults he frees himself from i all entanglements and lighus out down the I canvon lor a mile ..r so (..fore' he i.- j caught Photo Supplies Damaged. Meanwhile tho water Is quickly drained from our boxes and bogs, hut this does! p.-,t prevent serious elamoge to many of our most precious possessions. We have I pUt tOO man.- good eggs In one basket, for all our photographic plates, both exposed ex-posed and unexposed, are neiw soakerl and the sketches I have msdo are wringing wet The result would have been worse had WS not wrapped many packages in waterproof coverings By great good fortune, for-tune, also we carry four of our five cameras on our backs Two or three miles further, we reach eamp. near the Caroline bridge and spread out our things In the bright sunshine sun-shine te. dry Wc are to keep Ihla camp for several days. Huge and Clumsy. The Caroline bridge s huge and clumsy. The thickness of the arch Is sixty feel the height from stream to top Is 1SJ feP. The width of the causeway Is sixty feet wide at the narrowest point, and the span Is IVi feet. The altitude at base Is (VYX) feet, all Of which data v paint upon the abutments over the signature of the Commercial club On the Arch Probably no human being until now has been upon Its top, i.u' somehow Carl Holmes contrives to muke the ascent In I the twilight and leaves a red handkerchief handker-chief fluttering on a tree over the middle Of the arch to prove his exploit, but he 8 not able te repeat It the next morning, for a slight frost has rendered the rocks a llttl slippery, and under these conditions condi-tions "a little goes a long way." However How-ever the bridge Is again climbed In the afternoon, and the nbovo measurements are made. Greatest Natural Bridgo in the World. We still feel that the curtain has yel to rise on the great third act. for we have not vet seen the gigantic Augusta bridge. Four miles up White canyon fmm . amp With the walls ever narrowing We flounder among wet sands, crouching i:n-dei i:n-dei houghs of great cedar-., breaking our way through copses of .scrub-oak and willow wil-low We emerge Into n slight widening of the gorge, and there vvuik' from cliff lo cliff the magnificent and shapely structure struc-ture thnt must ever rank among the most splendid achievements In Nature. It Is se i among big things The walls on each side are tremendous, the trees In the cot tnnwood grove beneath are giants, but nothing can affect the sweeping lines of this colossal creation It arouses a sense of suhllmltv nnd power, and seems to have enormous strength that -hall endure forever. Huge pines that cling around Its abutments seem like shrnhberr ; the dashing dash-ing stream beneath dwindles to a rivulet, and the horsemen gathered In Its shadow dwarf suddenly to pigmies. First Men to Reach Top. There Is little doubt that Carl Holmes, George Perkins and v. A. Nielsen who reached the top by difficult climbing and the aid of ropes, are the Qrst nun to set foot there. Later In the day 1 cross the bridge with Frank Adams With our longest lines the height Is measured and It proves to be feet from tho stream to tho causeway above The latter is thirty-five feet In width, the thickness of the arch is eighty-three feet and th.- span 1 i 320 feet The altitude at baSC Is 8060 feet above sea level. Hitherto It has hern eieemeil Inaccessible. Still higher, on the north wall of the canvon, are seen Important ruins of the so-called ellff dwellers, and the afternoon I" spent In climbing these high place- in search of relics. We are rewarded with two remarkahlv fine stone axes with stains of blood upon them, altho.igli they are found under such conditions that It must have been ages ago when they were laid awn j Unknown Cnnyon. Very few. Indeed, are those Of the present pres-ent day who have h.en where we have already trodden, but we are anxious to reach a spot where It Is quite certain that no white man has penetrated, nnd there Is a canyon near by which our guide assures us has never yet been entered He has proven It to be Inaccessible, either from the mouth or from Us source, but now that we have found B way to scale the mighty cliffs surmounting the AugUB- l I ta bridge we can reach It from the high mesa above The next day a spent In this effort e climb again the dangerous steeps and tramp for miles over rockv ledges and cedar ridges to the ?orge that we have nlreadv de Ided to name 'Tnknown Canyon Can-yon ' We. shudder over Its rockv rim as vvb look down Into the depths but at last find a favorable place to make the descent a SB . 9 Mi 'tz&&6b. m; . .. ijkSsfissSM bb -9ibS " Jam Th? Caroline SrlsV with scaling lines. We are all the more eager because of the extensive ruin that are seen on the opposite wall but here again we dig much and get little Sandals are in i urlOUS abundance, so that ene of the boys expresses the belief that we have entered a shoe factory. We also rind fragments of especially well Qfei orated or-ated pottery, but these anel some Cordage and a hank of human h tlr are nil we get Off to Grand Gulch Another day or two spent In the neigh-horhood neigh-horhood of the bridges, sl.-t'long and photographing, and we then leave White canyon to visit Grand gulch. This wonderful won-derful gorge heads within a few miles of the Elk ridge and drains Into the San Juan river. It does not appear on the man until now but Is said to be nenrly a hundred miles long in Its windings although al-though not half that distance in a straight line. It has never been traversed, and until recently has never been crossed, al-he.ugh al-he.ugh from the beginning It has barrel ' ' way of those who wished to go from tiu t edorndo river to Bluff City Now however, the guide leads us to fjolllns canyon, one of Its tributaries sometimes called Trail canyon, where jt ha been found possible to make the descent We eamp early In Collins cave, about halil way down, and our men are sent out to do all that can he done to Improve the trail In the perilous places ahead of us. Our guide has reason to dread this trail, as the year before he and his brother had ventured down with about a hundred Pm . Cattls, and eleven of them wore Killed by falling over the precipices This brother, James Scorup. Is out on the annual an-nual round-up and spends tho night with us In Collier's cave In Grand Gulch, The morning Is bright and balmv when we safely reach tho bottom of' Grand gulc i 1 ho pack train is sent a few miles up th. canyon to camp while we go down the stream, where scarcely any one has ever gone, to witness the wonders of th.s .-trango and gloomy gorge. Nothing that we nave ever seen equals its tortuous windings. The rocks have grown redder and the cliffs higher The canvon 13 some times a quarter of a mile wide, with alluvial bottoms, but frequently narrows to a few feet. At one place we ride between be-tween walls so close together that we can touch both sides with our feet as we pass through, and the citiH '.mo terrifies the lmariuS trcei or? IB ledgrn. wnere they hirgsss! seventy or eighty rt . fty mll?a of ciuiyon ti3 ! he furj of t'. cbbV placea must be ac;.ni'-B the, kles ar clear tcduB of this grjrg ar such tWB we travel nearly a ar.'taaH v I of actual ;rcnijfl nnol that M wo-jld bring a Lo im good vrhll; ago Ttc 3e5B feature of this gorgo 1; old cottonncoda, trtthtjV beauty, overhung iy aajajH rich red walls contraajB gn on of the fullago. InfjjS rlpths b'.uoblrda mi l.'ipplly, inenalNo to IhtlH is at last apprcachlajB R turning up the fulchsjH mouth of l.lttle Egypt, nU has been made u Cattle 9 midst of eplr8 ar.6 aB dwellings amorg i?hls3i evening foils if thtM sJJH wlord in the, Jay-tiaia. hsjH In the dnrknoial The BjH and In the early hours tfW my way alone in tit ssfl deep and diurnal p-tRtajtiiB ihe rocxy shelves -t3 USjjjV Ina ; la i of h. lo'.E-fehjesH :holns corridors rcspesll ;rmur nr.d the crttfcsH hrlriKs forth a ri:!tllnB doptn mat a;e tco pttfsH to penetrate, Soon a vtH glow ieomi to ll(hi 'fjV hlRh overhead tho mclMaH on rocky creata. I Lost in tiic l&brafl Is one of tho lutafl the wilderness. 'v,:l'JB ihe ha of men. WMJ night in p-see and aacsH wand. Etlnl uifl ib; rinths only a few aSH In the -'fljH teen da-. . .in. I have BOSBI with.. ut uiMm and Peter I of C"natJM taineers u bawtH from vallevs Kather tba tgfl miles by rail they haM across Country from H i ago they croaH ai He the RaajH south of Dandv r'W.'B have '. trying to Bluff Cltv v. .. "tm same region ar3 ago, eM famished and lost la iNaaj rocks and box-car.yons. saved the.m from d'ath JB are ,-veaic and won. fatigue Then they CSJ f . K- wl.-re -.v bad cVSJM ,ne of tho side c3"raM th- trail of JnmfJ ScorWi , ,,, ,i tn the upper ..v-.-rtake hitn an'J ,,, , , Several days MMl . at Bluff WjM . v .-. want? anything not a. orll ''Jm Greatest CandjH That Ameilcans are tkefl eaters In the wor.d MS mat th- national : generally to all art J In urge imounts u -"JM The consumption "3 Slates has been F,BB veura and now te& H Lounto .11 .SliaB pounds a nead of PrEM Celng as follows MgM lend! sixty W J SrTane'colVsumpt.on0f BUgar on the vlefllfM -eoualh.g that nJm of ;reat BrlU j. In J ft on showing ""J neema to be VfSB Maya the. A".'. th" r,0,iu,H MwdH li,,iL'a-.-dhaif iiJJM Device ot J An apparently rvlng an ostensWeSM movements ; wht JM followed her nht.00piM The men 'rf rcrfo.ilM for the . .'rCnM ,t the poll' 1 rrfl ne U: ir fil cr The W(Tvim the poll--" ffiae fM face and .rc J cnlld ,nre cloMl police cfflchll n aulte dry a"." M found that It r !. "h , 'a iiS |