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Show v - j pp ' 0' Forrsly-ea3ori-fea ETOiine Trimmed 5f4l I Neckpieces More Popular Than Muffs -Many Graceful ! Capes and Stoles of Short Haired Fur Wolf the ; Standby In Low P'riced Furs -Fox Very Fash ionable But Rare and Expensive Ifffo HE FUR manufacturers havo S spent some sleepless nights one imagines, what with the dim-cully dim-cully of securing labor and the uncertain shipping conditions. And j after all their trouble and effort worn- en might have taken it Into their heads to conserve on fur and wear knitted wool scarfs and under-Jackets under-Jackets for sweet economy's sake this winter. But fears have been laid at rest. The new furs are ready and they arc being snapped up in great ( numbers. Never, it seems, was fur to be more popular, or mpre essential If Fashion is to be pleased; and this I In spite of the fact that prices have I jumpcu twenty-fivo to a hundred per ' cent. And, as in the case of tailored costumes, cos-tumes, It is the high-priced furs that are having the best sale. Vomen who have no particular need to economise closely aro buying the furs they fancy, whatever the cost; it Is the woman who must study to make ends meet who is looking around carefully and deciding whether she will give up seal In favor of nutria, or fox In favor of ! wolf- Even the nutria and wolf are priced substantially this fall, but thev cost far less than soma of the other polts. and as prices go these days, cannot can-not be considered exorbitantly high. Collars Larger, Muffs Smnllcr A fur collar now attains the propor-i propor-i Hons of a cape. Unless It comes well Iuji urounu inuiroat, and extends well down over the shoulders it cannot be said to possess the merit of style. , Scarves usually Include two pelts, and dangling tails and paws add to their i generous size. On th0 other hand, mufTs aro smaller than Lhcy were, and most of thorn arc shaped like a ball round and sbft and fluffy, the fur being be-ing mounted on tho lightest of founda-tions founda-tions so that the muff may bo crushed under tho arm or In tho hands. One may slip her mufr over one arm and ; carry it that way, with the hand protruding pro-truding as from a deep fur cuff a much safer way to carry tho muff when It is not needed for purposes of warmth, than tho old' fashion of swinging it from ono flngcr by a cord loop. Tucked over tho arm. the muff cannot bo laid down on a counter while shopping, and forgotten; and it will bo out of tho way when one hangs , by a street car strap, and not. dangle Jrrltatingly in tho faco of tho tired business man, who is trying to read a newspaper In the scat Just under , the said strap. Popularity Of Gray Furs j Gray ls very fnshlonablo In costume 1 this year, and all the gray pclt3 aro In demand. Those furs look well 'also, with navy blue and with black costumes. cos-tumes. Gray squirrel, which used to be tho favorite fur for little girls, ls fashionablo now for grown women and there aro many attractive collar H ! &cia ql mo preivy gray pelt. A. set of gray squirrel is Illustrated. worn with a tailored suit of dark gray wool velour and a littlo hat of French bluo vclvot. The fur in this graceful H collar Bhows its dark markings and Its j soft texture very pleasingly. Tho col- la-r Is shaped like a flat stolo and one B .end is drapod and tucked under the M other to glvo an Irregular line. The small muff Is made of melon shaped Hty sections of tho squirrel pelt, arranged ) so that tho dark stripe run3 through K tbo center of tho muff which has a 1 i soft, round outline. Squirrel ls not an H cxpcnslvo fur or should not be cx- Ki pensive, since squirrels abound in B.i America and In some communities are 'I regarded, as such pests becauso of H their depredations o'n crops that re 1 wards aro offered for killing them. But once little foxes of tho field wcro likewise despised by the farmers and now look at the price of fo'x. One cannot expect to get a fox set for much under a hundred dollars, and some of the rarer kinds, like rose or silver fox. cost much more than that. Opossum And Rnce6on Play Their Part Opossum Is high in Dame Fashion's favor just now. it has a richness of color that makes admirable In a season when tailored suits, and indeed all street costumes, arc rather monoU onous In their somber or neutral tones. Thcro are various grades of opossum and the American opossum ls not pro motive In price even to an economical econom-ical purse. The finer Australian opossum, opos-sum, however, which so closely resembles re-sembles chinchilla, is very expensive. A good looking set o'C American opossum opos-sum is pictured and here one notes one of the very large collars which Fashjon approves Just now. It is almost al-most a cape, you, see. coming well down over the shoulders and quite to tho waistline In front; and there is an animal brush added by way of a cravat 5nd where the collar "fastens. Tho muff is round and soft and Is beautifully marked by tho strlpings of the fur. Raccoon, another once humble hum-ble pelt, ls much favored by Fashion this year; though sometimes raccoon cleverly dyed, passes under a more patrician name. Clfl.nl. y , i -.ma murr sets will bo ( as popular as ever and this sturdy fur Is a good Investment for It wears sat-; sat-; lsfactorily and keeps its color and ; luster through several seasons. Smart scarf and muff sets of natural skunk. 1 the scarf trimmed with talis and paws and the muff in the new ball shape.. ; have been selling during September for as low as sixty dollars; but one will probably pay more for skunk as the season advances. Manc'hurian wolf is the fur for tho woman who must havo somo furs yet slmplly cannot can-not afford to pay a high price. This Manchurian wolf Is taupe or in black. Is soft and silky and wears pretty well. A good set may bo had for about thirty-five dollars, though the shops often quote moro moderate prices for special sales. Black "Russian "Rus-sian wolf" Is a much cheaper fur, but trust It not. for It Is suspiciously suggestive sug-gestive of common or garden tabby dyed a Jetty hue, and when It begins to look bedraggled which may be sooner than you anticipated- it will look very sad Indeed. Muffs Not Absolutely Necessary Ono docs not havo to' buy a muff With ono's new fur neckpiece unless a muff seems personally Indispensable. So many women prefer to get along without tho bother of carrying a muff theso busy war days, that most shops now offer tho ncckpleco and muff separately, sep-arately, instead of including both in a ut u b-ivcn price. I'crhaps one reason for this is pockots. You absolutely ab-solutely have to havo a fur scarf, or stole, to keep your nock warm in bitter bit-ter cold weather, but hands can always al-ways bo thrust in pockots if Jack Frost nips too ardently. A muff Is a graceful belonging, however, and a great addition to the winter costume. These days, when street clothes aro so slmplo and so plain In stylo the collar and muff of handsome fur have a greater value than ever In adding distinction dis-tinction to the outdoor costume. Beaver And Nutria Sets In Abundance Tho short haired furs used for collar col-lar and muff sets Include beaver nutria, moleskin and seal. Of theso beaver and nutria promlso to bo tho most popular becauso they aro less costly than seal and moleskin. Both of tho latter pelts aro exclusively 0m h : 'Tlxif f of Stut)k. Pice of Beaver-va smart and both aro rather high priced. Even back In August, when tho .shops wero offering special mid-summer bar-gains bar-gains in furs, a smartly shaped collar of Hudson seal was priced at sixty dollars and the muff to match at about thlrty.-flvo dollars. Seal stoles, of course, cost considerably more, but if you can afford It ' nothing will be smarter or more distinguished than a long seal stole with a muff to hold the ends of the stolo gracefully against the figure. A set of natural beaver will not be cheap by any means, but this fur is a good investment, for It wears, well and may be used indefinitely indefinite-ly for trimming purposes, after the collar and muff have gone out of style. A very attractive beaver set is illustrated; illus-trated; the muff In round canteen shape and the collar In cravat shape, with ono end drawn through a slash In tho other end. Dyed nutria is less expensive than beaver and is a very satisfactory fur. It looks especially well with tailored costumes in brown or dark green tones. Little Wraps Of Fur Aro Enchanting Every woman will have, if she possibly pos-sibly can, one of the fascinating littlo fur wraps coatees, or dolmans, or whatovor they may be called. There will bo more talk about these delightful delight-ful littlo fur wraps on a later page-but page-but two models are pictured today: a now dolman of seal, and a graceful ermine theatre wrap for tho evening. net and many of these veils show great intricacy of design, the chiffon of the border running up Into th"o net center in graceful scrolls or curves. Ono of these veils shows a net center almost two yards long. Outsldo of tho net ls a nine Inch border of sou-tached sou-tached chiffon. This border goes around thrco sides of the veil. On the fourth sldo ls a sort of extension of net which forms a ruff around tho neck when tho veil ls adjusted. Scarf veils are worn In the manner ' inuicatcci in tho picture. Most of the veil falls at the back, tho shorter end going over hat and face. The whole veil may hang free, or the corners at the front may be carried back and pinned at the back of the neck, over tho long, floating end of tho veil. Sometimes the long end. Is wound around the throat, scarf fashion, and allowed to float over one shoulder. These big voils look best with rather small hats, and somo of them, worn over tiny turbans suggest the lines of a widow's veil, an effect contradicted by the color or design of the long veil. Another veil of tho larger sort Is the square veil which ls thrown over a small hat and allowed to' float free, as the wind llsteth. One of these veils ls pictured, a square model of taupe silk mesh with a woven chenille border in self-tono. Tho taupo veil Is very offectlvo over a small, high crowned turban trimmed with wool fringe In the new henna shade. Splendid cold weather veils arc the models of Shetland wool mesh with wido borders of woven : wool. The bordor may bo arranged to cover mouth and chin, or drawn down and draped around t!:o throat llko a crushed collar. A taipe hexagon mesh veil of flno Shetland has a flvo Inch border of gray wool In a pattern suggesting sug-gesting hand purling. A wonderful veil, this, for a keen winter day. All the millinery shades arc repeated repeat-ed in veilings and the taupe, brown and henna, or rust tono3 seem particularly par-ticularly fashionable. A taupe veil may be worn with a black, hat and Is far more becoming to the averago woman than a black voll. There aro navy blue veils, too and more purple f veils than there should bo for If there ls anything moro disastrously unbecoming unbe-coming to tho aerage faco than a' A Silk Mesh Veil With Woven Border In Taupe; The Veil Thrown Over Tho Hat In The Nuw Way, Without Pinning. purple veil, ono cannot think, what II may be. Tho navy and white veils an rather smart when worn wish na7 blue costumes, but their voguo Trill endure through the early autums months only for navy usually retlrei from Fashion's stage when real cold weather comes. A very pretty veil 1: the scarf shape Is of white silk mesh, embroidered with -navy blue dalsla At the back ls an extension of nav? ( chiffon which falls to tho waistline. This veil has been duplicated In taini ! I chiffon with henna embroidery on taupe mesh. Tho fringed veils and, of cour.'S, veils had to be fringed like cvcrythlnf else are particularly graceful. One such voll is of Georpel to with narrow nar-row self toned fringe all around tit edge. Tho veil ls Intended to v.-ni around the crown of a small sailor c; turban, ono end being brought fo ward from the back and twisted routd tho throat while the other end fari forward over the shoulder A favored faco veiling ts in filet mesh with small chenillo croy.s shaped llko the Red Cross at the lt torsectlon of the mesh. Tho file'.; squares aro three-fourths of an in:l wide- with a single twisted thread be-' A Laco Veil Swathing The Hat Lit1 B A Widow's Mourning Veil, Wth , & Ends Falling Below The Waist j I At Back A Very Smart ' Stylo Just Now. . i rwecn and the chenillo motifs sho ft j up, well against the face. Anothf' h faco veiling- of extremely transparent , mesh has a bold criss-cross design 1b g, chenille threads, the pattern formic' U largo diamond shaped motifs on ths mosh. Diamond shaped dots of vei vet ornament another veil In tI,e V' squaro shape and around each la'S" diamond dot Ls a clrclo ,of small- K round dots, tho whole border half, p covering tho faco when tho veil U p thrown over a wide-brimmed hat A , a rulo, tho largo veils look much bet. ter over small hats; and face veils ar i worn with both largo hats and tur I bans; fey as has been said a veil , almost Indispensable for smartnetf ) theso days. Ot |
