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Show f'4 Its The Same ButDifferent shall always from the French of school days: "Plus f a I This Dough will mass into rough clumps. REMOVE DOUGH To make a more perfect blending, ROUGHLY PUSH CLUMPS TO YOUR WORK EGG-SIZE- SURFACE, sprinkle drops of water on the unmassed remains and join to the rest. Dough should not be damp better less water than more. CLUMPS OF DOUGH OUT IN FRONT OF YOU IN SMEARS. D Gather into a mass and repeat. All of these maneuvers are done rapidly don't linger! Dough should be fairly smooth and pliable. FORM IT INTO A CAKE (as shown at lower right) AND WRAP IN PLASTIC; refrigerate in a plastic bag for at least 2 hours. (It will keep for 2 or 3 days, or it may be frozen.) 3 r plus eest la the more chose it changes, the more its the same thing. I was never quite sure exactly what that jewel of ancient wisdom meant, but they might well have been talking about cooking. The menu in these pages well illustrates the point, as 1 understand it in my older years. Take our souffte. Its flat as a rag rug simply because it has 2 less egg whites than usual and is baked in a jelly-ro- ll pan so it cant rise. Return those 2 stiffly beaten egg whites, confine the mixture within a cylindrical baking dish, and it rises into a majestic puff. It has changed radically but its the same basic thing. Again, take our original souffle, double the flour, bake itin a pan 2 inches deep, and you have a cheese-flavorcoffee cake. (Sounds rather nice. Id toast big slices and serve them with ham and scrambled eggs.) Or remove the egg whites entirely from the formula, beat in a little cream, and you have a Momay sauce, rich with cheese. Or leave out the cheese, and you are back to the basic Wchamel. Asparagus wont lend itself to such shenanigans, but pastry dough will. The fact that our tart dough can turn itself into a cookie is proof enough. Its an even more elegant dough if you add more sugar to it and eggs. Or leave out the sugar, and its a quiche turndough or a cloak for meat-fille- d overs. The more it changes, the more you realize its the same old thing. Plus fa change was certainly conceived by a French cook, for thats what cooking is a great set of themes with infinite delicious variations. ed Peel asparagus with a small, sharp knife or vegetable peeler, going deep enough to expose the tender flesh, especially at the butt end. Asparagus is done when it bends only a bit, as you see at upper right. It should be just cooked through but with a slight crunch. Drain on a towel. Fresh Green Asparagus peak months for fresh are March. April and when it is at its most and also its most Asparagus is aland dean expensive vegetable ways serves to be treated as such. When served in handsome. long, tender green spears, it can well be a separate course. And it makes an easy first course because it can be served hot. warm or cold meaning that a cook needn't worry once the asparagus is done. The PARADE MAGAZINE APRIL 28, 1985 Buying asparagus. Always look carefully at asparagus to be sure it is really fresh. The spears should be firm, full and bright green. There should be no shriveling of the stalk as it nears the butt end. which should look moist. Serious markets will stand the spears on damp absorbant paper or in a little water. The bud ends should be firm and tightly closed, with no darkening or dampness at the tip. Fat spears are just as tender as thin spears, and fat spears are easier to prepare quickly. Storing. Asparagus spears are like flower stems they need water. When you get home, cut 12 inch off the butt ends, stand the spears in a container with I inch of water, cover loosely with a plastic bag (see photo above) and refrigerate. Theyll keep nicely for a day or two. if necessary. Preparation for cooking. What a cruel waste to bend asparagus until it breaks and to throw a good third away. Carefully peeled, it's tender from tip to butt; and long, peeled spears are elegant to serve. To cook. Once peeled, asparagus could hardly be easier to cook. None of that business is necessary because the stalks are tender from end to end. Simply submerge the peeled spears, tips facing the same way, in a roomy pan of lightly salted, rapidly boiling water a frying pan, roasting pan or oval casserole will do. Boil slowly, uncovered, for about 5 minutes. Serve asparagus hot or cold with lemon wedges it's a perfect diet food. Or serve it hot with melted butter or hollandaise sauce, or cold with French dressing. PAGE 13 ADVERTISEMENT i Enchiladas Con ftillo Caruso Casserole Hcwfckifffdmlm ldtetmjc,cnahee lTMpUner rnnr HtvIfHmimmmmlmf ft tip trnetu writ emd pepper ) empmilk I Vi empt tkreddrd Mmsrrlh cheett 2 CMJ cooked drained ooodlei ft rM etch: Mned tucchM then Preheat oven to 350" F. Cook sausage. onion and garlic in skillet until sausage is brown and crumbly. Drain, art aside. MeN butter, stir in flour and seasonings until smooth. Remove from heat and stir in milk. Bring to boiling over medium heat, st irring constantly lor one minute. Reduce heat to low. Stir in half of the cheese. St ir in cooked sausage mixture, noodles, zucchini and tomatoes Turn Into buttered I quart casserole. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until hot and bubbly Remove from oven and sprinkle with remaining cheese Return to oven to melt cheese. 2 tuft thudded Mmterey Jack chasse CVRf NIMWV (WW CNQM ' cup car chaffed tvmetom, thced fitted rise Mart ft cap earn: c i Jft -i ed chaffed emlem empt prepared ckmnkj tact) 12 ttxdnch Itoar terttihu meet Preheat oven to 350F. Combine half of cheese with next five ingredients. Mix well with one cup taco sauce. Dip each tortilla in remaining taco sauce, add cup filling, roll up and place, seam side down in buttered 13 x 9 baking dish. Spread remaining sauce over tortillas. Cover with (oil. Bake 30 minutes. Remove (oil and sprinkle with remaining cheese Return to oven until cheese melts, about three minutes. Serve Immediately. 'i end chapped tomotoet , READ ) |