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Show I ' Thai Has I Jtew? iStflP Nnf and a Few tlMf?!! K H " ' pfejfllt .-flfll I i?&is , .. wmmk v. 1MIMM LADY DUFF-GORDON, ihc famous "l.uci!c" of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week le fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest HR and best in styles lor well-dressed women. HI Lady Dull-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings her into close tt touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American csatblishmcnt ,it at Nos. 37 and ' 39 West Fifty-seventh sir"! N' York City. H By Lady Duff-Gordon ("Lucile") THIS week I have something very new and (startling to show you. Xolhiug more nor less than evening gowns without Hh any sleeves at all! This sounds startling, even for Paris, the home of sartorial thrillers, and there is no doubt that their lirst appearance ruadc more than' one conservative matron open her eyes in surprise. Frankly, I do not lil j UJs lutcst fad. And fad I tru.,t will remain. HH In Paris many things are fads that uevor hecome fashions. Hj The elcoveles3 gowns have no points in their favor in my eyes. They aro unhygienic, immodest and uugraceful, and the last is the worst. To grace much may b'e forgiven. But when si thing is immodest, as well as Inartistic, then It is beyond Hj the pale, indeed. Hf These new gowns came as a sur- prise, for the tendency for the past three years has been toward long wleeves. A few years ago we were wearing gauze sleeves that ended midway between f shoulder and iHj plbow; then the sleeve lengthened IBM to the elbow, and last "Winter it H was no unuBual thing to see sleeves Bj to the "wrist "worn with extremely docollete gowns. In fact, las'; Win-tor Win-tor it looked as though we were , putting In our sleevei; all that wo HJ cut out of our necks. The women of all ages, and coun-tries coun-tries have Invariably covered their n arms in part. Two reasons have nl- Hjfj ays been given for this, aside from Hil that of modeBty. The extreme upper Hjfl Dart of the arm Is moro susceptiblo M i to cold than any other part of the body. As Achilles's- heel was the vulnerable portion of his body, so a woman's upper arm is hers. Therefore, There-fore, in all ages it has been customary custom-ary to keep these few inches covered, cover-ed, no matter how exposed the neck and shoulders might be. Sixouuly, the sleeveless effect was voted very ungraceful and ugly. No matter how beautiful a woman's arm ana shoulder may be, her lines of grace aro hopelessly broken when she omits her sleeves. The greatest coquettes in history have understood this. I have never seen a portrait of court favorite, for instance, without with-out a sieeve arupery or arm covering cover-ing some kind. To those women health meant nothing, but graco and charm everything. Then the Grecian women, the most beauty-loving people peo-ple of history, carefully draped their arms. They wore very few clothes, to bo sure, but part of those clothes formed arm coverings. Actually, tne sieevelosa gowns aa shown to-day in Paris are rousing me to a state of irritation that Is very amusing! "Why, O vhy, will women bo so crude in their desire to attract? Crudeness is so unpardonable, unpar-donable, so unnecessary. There is nothing more exquisite than half, veiled charms. Charms that are half concealod, eyes seen dimly through filmy veils, pearly skin gleaming through misty chiffons. Ah! such is the art of beauty. Study the pictures pic-tures of these gowns and sen if I aro not right in hoping that they will not appear in America. They are being seen in Paris, but let us hope fWm wit SlBi . . , ,: i- wMM M The Sleeveless Gown Absolute. Stunning Evening tH9S$$-0AM Costume in Rose Moire Velvet and Chiffons. MwXMMMm that they will not find their way across the Atlantic. In tho first picture will be seen the sleeveless gown absolute. As you will see, tho lines of it are very lovely until ono looks at the arm und shoulders then one says how 'ugly. A desire Tor the outre haB spoiled an otherwise charming costume. cos-tume. Tho fabric used is a beautiful rose moire'. Tho tunic is o roso chiffons. The long trained robe Is split up in the front and edged with silver fringe. Silver tassels on the tunic aro a novel touch, and I like the simplicity of the bodice, only 1 cannot lose sight of tho fact that the whole effect Is ruined by the lack of sleeve drapery. Just a word about the brocade wrap that is also shown in this picture. pic-ture. Two shades, rose and silver, are combined, and tuo whole thing Is edged with white fox. In the centre figure the Greek suggestion can be plainly seen. But the Greek woman would not have omitted the sleeve, as has been done here. I like the draped effect here very much, Indeed. Two fabrics used aro soft heavy ehnrmeuse and supple brocade. This la an all-black cos- i tume.aaud the lines aro beautiful. t There is, you see, a difference be-$ tween this sleeveless effect and tho'lj first. This is a bit moro graceful, but it is sadly unhygicmc. The brocade," cleverly draped, covers the right side of the robe from the bust line to the knee. Tho long, slender train and the narrow hnir baud give a statuesque statu-esque effect that i3 very pleasing. The third picture shows just a hint of the sleeve, but the hint is not vory graeerm. This lsa charmingly charm-ingly simple gown, otherwise, and is a modo that has won much favor in Paris. The fabric is a delectable mauvo and orchid velvet as supple as satin. Tho skirt Is dancing length banded with brown fur. vThe bodlco cut in extremely long points, back and front, Is edged with the fur also. The scml-sleoves aro formed by drawing up tho fabric on tho Bhoulders with a small buckle, leaving leav-ing the upper arm exposed, but protecting pro-tecting tho under part in a way. Tho very stunning girdle is of orchi'1 satin. The bow at the back Is very PWA And now I am going to tell you fMlfMwM) about some other new things that WMWMSmM, are the vogue j-: Paris. WBW&MWwK First, then, a skirt of black char- feWlwMlII meuse Is draped up toward the left WMMMWfMmM side in a way apparently simple, but WtMWMMwM. In reality exceedingly skilful and kmMWSMW. complicated, which leaves the soft mm&WMWAt and supple fabric quite plain in WMMWWMmW front and over the hips, while then. MSI from knees to ankles, the somewhat iSMm fuller folds are still so disposed (by "SP their upward drapery toward the sSyl Charming Dancing Costume of Mauve and Orchid Velvet Designed De-signed as a Compromise "No-Sleeve" Model. left side) that tho line of the figure Is just aa clearly revealed' In fact, is probably even more closely silhouetted sil-houetted and that the charmeuso is carried high abovo tho waist line Is made fully evident by the extreme ex-treme abbreviation of the cutaway fronted coatee of white broche velvet vel-vet patterned with a bold raised design de-sign of powder blue and turned back with a long roll collar of the ' black ehnrmeuse, the contrasting fabric being used again to line the netal-Uke curves of the cuffs, while, in both cases, there is provided the further and most effective foil of some cobwebby, vari-toned lace, which forms a sort of jabot vest m front and deep, softly hanging sleeve frills. Almost needless to lay tUe lace is so arranged as to leave a deep V shaped opening at npek whose whiteness is sll--taCJVS T'raost becomingly against STJSt bCf of the sllghtiy up- V Jsn collar on tho back. STo muS the front view. a hive I hope, real- C lisUnct Attractive, while ized, ib "sunctl;en th0 Dack pro- vides a surprise for that dimlnutivo combined into very P&W lonS talls' v,'hlch faI1 hal dov,'n the lltMlfk skirt, so that alto-S alto-S gether the costumo ! 1 is a notably novel as well u , one, more especially aa conpW one of the latest and most lm draped chapeaux of blact nftj with a great aigrette P5JJ front, while 03 regards vm, skunk or black fox would M equally sage and successful cbw-If cbw-If you arrange a dupllcil el IB-toilette IB-toilette for outdoor wear jm J, be quito sure of being nofled Mj" admired, too, while then, M g you may be equally good W j' upon and correspondingly UPJJ) in the more private, but mam, Important, home circle, w Initiate you into the ieuJU n model which is ralj JM do duty either as a tea P or a "robe de diner intim?." It t just a clinging sheath of fog, blue nlnon, brocaded vflth a design of velvet Just a iwj.j deeper in tone, tho HioHnj1 parency of the lovely fabric ing the merest shimmer o 6g woven silver, and also a iU elusive suggestion of the i Bg undersllp of softest Chan |