Show SOME CnARNHN WINTER i FANCiES AND fASiHONSa > > Apropos of f the New CoiffureVelvet Gowns Tucked and Pleated The Pouch Bodice Still Very Much in Evidence One ot the really serious aspects of nidwlntar fashions Is that relating to I the coiffure I have already given you an Illustration of tho latest particular adjustment of the front hair It lies is you will remember In a side parting part-ing the hair being then gracefully dropped over the brow and the necessity neces-sity for any suggestion of a fringe thus Inevitably abolished This peculiar style has the advantage of allying itself vlth equal amiability to a high or low olack dressing and this to my thinking think-ing Is not by any means the least of its many virtues How weary one has become of the stereotyped head with tho pompadour front and little cot of j curls completed by the small high knot that has gradually worked Its I way to the front In a manner peculiarly pecu-liarly trying to the majority Looking down from a box at the theater on a row of heads In the scats the similarity of outline Is almost ludicrous lu-dicrous and almost would there seem to be at the moment but ono solitary Idea l In the shape of decoration namely big black wings spangled In diamonds or silver Almost one Is persuaded to turn In pleasurable relief to a modest little head dressed with a modest little twist in the nape of the neck I There is something supremely characteristic of the bread and butter mfg + in this but at any rate It serves to bring about variety though usually it Is without any touch of the artistic On the other hand the low dressing that is artistic Is exceedingly charming and alus THE NEWEST TEAJACKET I I is t r4 I 4 t 41ii f I u 11 K3 S 1Z jll I M L I I I ti xl r 1I 1 I f rG t 1 I II p This Becoming black velvet teajacket is trimmed with a clear lace It has a front of pleated white chiffon with bow of the same through the ends of vivich black velvet babyribbon is run Rosettes of the same are sot on tho bust and catch up the elbow sleeves These are finished with frills of the clear lace over pleating of chiffon run with black velvet vel-vet on the edge EMPIRE EVENING GOWN < t C 1 F 1 r r frI I t 1b U It I w I Ir r F o A 4 + I o t I I l I r t lilt 7J Il t l I I I t I 7 I h A 1 = I i r i r r i c l do i I I i r I 1tTL f i J i r 1 i 1r JI + I I Empire styles fire now much favored for tiful model for even lag gowns This beau theater 01 dinner F Is built of lace crepe It h6 mitten sleeves find a lace scarf beaded s ntil1 a and 8il1 ders to forma bertha On the left draped around nine shoul and shoulder this scarf is allowed to full In epauletto of jet takes the 011 < c of the sleeve The 111S htl Y over tlf a tIOllts j7 r 1 rf lace train comes t r fV i i v i i i I t r FRISIAN BALL AND DINNER GOWNS II I I lV r p t 1 I I err r T t L t l 2 J i I l I K fQ 7 i I J2 b I I t U n v j I l I A J r 1 I Y I t o M I 11 G I I J 1 1 t I r Cam 4 r r 1 i s1 I l tv t 1r 0 t141i 4 D icc7t viJ s r 1 0 rc LJjt T 1 I i1 st 1 I r r r ti 1 n mkWjypMmr WTipW fir fi-r 1 1 r i ° rI 4 4 ° ZT 1 r r Y r v c The gown on the left is heliotrope tulle with sprays of wistaria blossom embroidered on the panels A spray of the same flower is worn on the right shoulder an epaulette of amethyst bends resting on the other The second figure is dressed in black pleated mousseline de soie with jet embroidery the corsage finished with a scarf of soft white silk very rare The first essential of this hitter is looseness Us appearance being as though the whole structure were on the point of giving way To obtain so desirable an effect as a permanent feature Is I at once to achieve a triumph tri-umph And If It be completed bj the new front droop and side parting then I Is a result attained embodying at ono I and the same time the elements of smartness individuality and plctur I esqueness 1 That Is one of my chief complaints al the moment in the matter of coiffures coif-fures we are not sulHclently Individual f I One and nil pf us without exception have submitted humbly to a decided lack of energy on the part of Madame I Fashion Bidden by that autocratic voice to worship at one shrine we obediently dropped into the universal I adoption of the Infinitesimal topknot I turnback and stave front and tiny tendrils Now surely we have worn that ad nauseam and should consequently conse-quently be thoroughly prepared to grant hearty welcome to this latter and more artistic decree With the somewhat eccentric toques of the season this dressing Is most happy Indeed the harmony Hetween I the two Is quite remarkable Nor Is this graceful concession less marked when the hat partakes of the picturesque pictur-esque Galnsboro type Now that the burden of my thoughts anent the coiffure has evaporated into words I llnd myself face to face with yet another equally Interesting and burning question pertaining to our attire I at-tire This has reference to the vogue of velvet which we have scarcely accepted ac-cepted over here with the avidity one might justly have expected In Paris It is quite the rage and has been so since the autumn where also It Is delightfully de-lightfully manipulated Into persuasive Prlncesse form A Prlncesse velvet gown 1 = Is at all times a superior possession posses-sion but the treatment of today far surpasses that of yesterday by reason I of the clever tuckings and stltchlngs which Impart so unique and effective I a finish to the studied simplicity of outline which prevails A creation of Irresistible cachot was of flaxblue velvet with sleeves and yokethe latter revealed I In a deep pointed shape back and frontof black caracul Three tiny pleats occurred at either shoulder In front apd hero stitched down a short distance and then allowed to How eventually tol > e again picked up slightly above the waist line and continued down either hip for some fourteen of fifteen Inches The large majority of these velvet skirts appear to be pleated or tucked down very flu tat t-at the top while they me t anything longer and distinctly wider l hun c rut r-ut the base That timehonored material mate-rial cashmere let me lull you Is being Dressed with all precision Into this pleated service Tin new qualities are deliciously soft and line and are consequently con-sequently most supple and easy to manipulate A gray cashmere 1 saw this week and admired Immensely was arranged with a skirt set Into the tiniest boxpleats all around that were caught down flat but invisibly ns far as the knees hence after being well pressed they arc permitted to How out perfectly free and full Into clinging yet smartly pronounced folds while at the center of each pleat marking Indeed the termination of the stitch came three tiny fancy enameled buttons arranged ar-ranged In a perpendicular line The material of the bodice was disposed In precisely the same fashion aa the skirt tho pleats being lost In most becoming I fashion about the figure line a decided pouch occurring at tho waist over a waistband of burned orange panne a touch of color most effectively reintroduced reintro-duced In the form of a highshaped I folded collarband It was really quite the prettiest pleated arrangement I have seen and yet withal of such I studied simplicity Speaking of It reminds me to tell that the pouch bodice IH atlll very much In evidence Sometimes the pouch Is I repeated at the buck and without quite approving of Its appearance there from the point of view of strictly good outline out-line yet one appreciates the during and smart sugKestiveness of the touch The drop of course Is little more than a suggestion al the back and its successor success-or the reverse r vcry naturally ixsta much on the figure it is I permitted to adorn and still more on the sklllfulness of those to whom Its adjustment is cn t 0 trusted A pouch may be hideous and ungainly beyond all describing or It may be proportionately smart and successful suc-cessful Hut it Is I velvet as I said before that Is making the modistlc wheel to move wl t exciting energy In gay Paris I There arc all sorts and kinds of quail I I ties mlrolr mousseline cotton back I I eLcnor Is there any doubt that the I best approved color Is I this quaint flax l j blue with grls and brun coming In a good second or third Black Is always adorable but then that tells a more I matronly I story when built up Into a gown though as a palotol one of the I new long threequarter sacqucs It is I discreetly adjustable to younger forms and figures I Oh yes the velvet t paletot is a garment gar-ment to be seriously reckoned with for i It will very shortly 1alc upon Itself the I character of a graceful Intermediary bet veer tle allfur WaD and the little nothings of spring Speaking of outdoor garments reminds re-minds me that our hats Just now are mado either with a Sable brim or covered cov-ered with lophophoro a tiny green plumage of beautiful shading One of our oilknown society women looked very elegant the other day in a hat composed simply of two birds It was a very quaint combination and a becoming be-coming one and deserves a fuller description de-scription One bird was In the palest I of blues and the other In a very dark green thell necks rested ono upon thel other In the center of the brim In front and their bodies and wings surrounded and covered the close shape You can r have no Idea how pretty the effect was upon the fair hair I The rage for charms still continues The most favored portc bonheur however how-ever is a real work of art It Is the reproduction re-production of that famous medal dls covoredj by M Boyer dAgen some two years ago that made such a sensation at the time If you remember The story Is prettily related by M Andre Falalze He tells how In the spring ot 1S07 M Boyer dAgen happened to pass through the market one Wednesday morning of the Campe del Fieri and In In the midst of the children of the Ghetto he perceived an old peasant exhibiting ex-hibiting his ware the ragged green lining of his coat serving as a picturesque pictur-esque background IIJs stock In trade consisted of old Iron of all descriptions With the end of his stick 1ST Boyer d len turns oer the rusty keys horseshoes and the number of shapeless pieces of metal and stoops to pick up one that attracts him by the Hebrew chirai rs and the outline of a mans head shining here and there through the cake of dust For a couple of sold about 5 cents he becomes the possessor I sor of this piece which has since been discovered to be one of the first portraits por-traits of IHl8pelhaps traced to early I apostollo times but without doubt one of the purest chefs doevres of ancient or modern numismatics and an Ideal presentment of the Savior I need not recall here the various researches that the sa ants of all nations have made In connection with this medal or enter into the question of the epoch to which It belongs It la interesting however I to note the Impression It made upon Cardinal Parocchl who expressed himself him-self so touchingly about the Infinite sadness and the Infinite beauty of the features It Is also said that the Pope was so Impressed with the reproduction of the medal that was presented to him that he seemed to caress the metal following lice by line with his long thin fingers the trace of the hair and tho minutest detail of the face During his long Illness this medal was constantly con-stantly In his hand The celebrated goldsmith Fallsc Preres have repro duced this treasure In silver In bronze andIn a small edition In gold but from an artistic point of view It Is the silver medal which has the greatest value as It Is the exact counterpart of the orig I inal discovered by M Boyer dAgen Worn as a pendant CLpen ant attached to a renaissance chain or simply suspended by a thin chain of silver this head of Christ has replaced the Jeweled or golden MOSS that was at one lime so general And upon a velvet bodice the reflections in the silvo r In parts are Indeed beautiful merely looked upon as an ornament Coral has onto more i returned to favor and It Is much worn for glrdlon I mua and lorgnette chains and other ornamqntg The DInk coral being tare I NEWEST PARISIAN BOLERO Hl I I C l I Q y r I rlf I It 2 fI L h b I 1 l 1 e Q 4 I II t 114 r I a t 1 11i A r ti Ir t 1 G a t 1 1 f i I I by r < k = J The very latest Parisian novelty is a little coat of ermine with applications applica-tions of cream guipure A scarf of mousscline de solo with fnnged ends is tied around the neck outside the collai The hat of gray velvet vel-vet has a brim covered with ermine a rosette of cream mousselina and a paradise plume i and expensive it Is most sought after but the red the coral of our babyhood Is i not despised l In conjunction with pearls it Is very sweet In Italy coral is to be picked up very cheaply for Naples is the great center of the coral workers Three things may be safely bought In Italy coral turquoise and tortoise shellfor even if acquired wlth NEW HAIR ORNAMENTS ri bo I 0 0 + 1 r I O C I G ve o Q G G o Vv C O c t G CJ U O Dainty butterfly aigrette with soft osprey and net rosette spangled with jewels Dragon fly aigrette with babyribbon rosette and lacewings lace-wings spangled with jewels PRINCESS COSTUME 0 F CREPOLINE CORD t i lrl r i I ypftm f V l 1II < > rr ilt Y t t I 74 i i t 1 r I i I j r tbo s I < li I 2 tf I 1 I i i I rl II Ii t fl 1 1 y w f w11 I 1 This simple yet elegant mourning costume of crepoline cord is trimmed veil and hat are made The of the with waterproof crepeThe same rapt nJ This is a very desirable model for a mourning gown and is suit w ffrmnt F A i street i able for cither house or t I out much of the necessary heating i down process It is cheaper than olst I where Turquoises are exceedingly j fashionable as you know as they carryout carry-out the prevailing craze for light blue perhaps their reputed luokbrlnsln propensities may have something to ilo with it The newest dogcollars are those of Venetian gold or silver Ob Kree work studded vs lth turquoises cl varying size The limpid green ollvlrj and perigord ale also fashionable s |