Show SPRING SHOPPING Early Buyers Who Are Skimming the Cream of the New Stock j A MOIRE SEASON ALL THE NOVELTY GOODS MORE OR LESS FIGURED WITH WATER LINES Pavement Gray and Pine Bark Brown Are Popular Spring Tones ANew A-New and Charming Arrangement f the Upper and Under Skirts Bodice Prnts Still Have the Pouch Effect New York March IGHere we all are in windy March the snow on our umhrellas and our noses pink from the chilly breeze shopping like mad for garments it would cost us our precious lives to wear Diaphanous French silk linens for making over glace petticoats and fit only for a thermometer ther-mometer registering 80 degrees canvass can-vass hats light as thistledown glory Ing in diadems of such field flowers as onlly bloom naturaly under a July sun and parasols flounced with doubled petticoats of dotted mull clear up to the ferrule But really this is all genuine hay SPRING SHOPPING Early Buyers Who Are Skimming the Cream of the New Stock j A MOIRE SEASON ALL THE NOVELTY GOODS MORE OR LESS FIGURED WITH WATER LINES Pavement Gray and Pine Bark Brown Are Popular Spring Tones ANew A-New and Charming Arrangement f the Upper and Under Skirts Bodice Prnts Still Have the Pouch Effect New York March IGHere we all are in windy March the snow on our umhrellas and our noses pink from the chilly breeze shopping like mad for garments it would cost us our precious lives to wear Diaphanous French silk linens for making over glace petticoats and fit only for a thermometer ther-mometer registering 80 degrees canvass can-vass hats light as thistledown glory Ing in diadems of such field flowers as onlly bloom naturaly under a July sun and parasols flounced with doubled petticoats of dotted mull clear up to the ferrule But really this is all genuine hay BLACK AND WHITE SUIT I r making while the sun of fashion shines or rather skimming the cream of things before the vulgar herd rushes in The woman is made of something more than ordinary weak human flesh who can sit at home her purse shut tight while every morning brings a fresh and enchanting j I I en-chanting panorama of temptations in the shop windows and on counters Even those who run down the aisles of the big dry goods houses can plainly see that almost every material is moired This watered stripe used to be the feature of silk fabrics alpnebut now the wools have caught the pretty infection infec-tion and some of the most striking tailor suits are made of voiline that I I looks like an all wool bengaline richly watered No dress goods is now considered con-sidered in better taste for even the most elegant toilets than the novelty checked poplins with broad watered effects and every roll of new ribbon is the glittering moire we wore five years ago It has no fancy edge one is I pleased to relate and the latest impor I places new manifestatfons are evident and just a few days ago the last consignment con-signment of foulards came from the foreign mlllsr all damasked over In the most delicate halfskeleton patterns Undoubtedly that was a good ida of the weavers The damasked figures are in exactly the same shade as the background back-ground of the goods and then on the green dahlia red gray or brown sky the big splashy white figures are delightfully de-lightfully brought out Absolutely without I with-out exception the skirts of these and every other summer material are made separate from the under petticoat and thewhole effort aims toward draping the top skirt on its foundation to simulate sim-ulate a deep ruffle This brings about the most varied and certainly admirable admir-able designs in skirt decoration nearly all of which lie about the hips or range from above the knees up A FRESH MODEL Take a look for instance at the dahlia dah-lia colored foulard in the sketch In every way this gown might from collar to hem serve as a text to preach an entire sermon on fashions from If you plucked up the bottom for a peep at interior arrangements you would find inside the silk foundation a hem a foot deep turned and braced with French haircloth Also inside would be seen three very narrow very full bias silk dust ruffles bound along their edges with bias velveteen Their mission mis-sion seems to be that of protecting the skirts edge giving a bouffante and dainty effect at the feet and warding off dust The damasked foulard top skirt well figured in cream white is enhanced just midway between knees and hips by a band of white satin overlaid with prettily figured black I silk muslin edged by a fine quilling of black silk muslin ribbon that has a narrow satin edge By the use of this band the skirt is so divided as to give the lower half all the appearance of a deep scant flounce growing full and airy at the back The upper portion fits the hips rather snugly and on some of the new gowns this band is replaced by rows of corded gathers over which the upper half of the skirt pouches a little One very pretty petticoat has several rows of lace beading bead-ing inserted where the satin band is laid and narrow ribbons to exactly match the varous colors in the foulard run through the beading and tied in full rosettes at the side Not yet have we done with the pouching waist front as plainly showed by bodice of this gown In common with so many of the last Paris fabrications fabri-cations the front of the waist is all of cream white satin fitting over the bust without a wrinkle hooking up under un-der the arm and on the left shoulder Upon this is draped a pinafore front made of foulard with three narrow long crescents cut from It across the bust and filled in with figured black silk muslin Slightly pouching in front a folded scarf belt of white satin gives the waist line finish while over the slightly puffed tops of the closefitting sleeves fall handkerchief points or SUK muslin edged with quillings Over the foulard back of the waist from the handkerchief points a simple drapery of muslin folds down to the bottom of the basque and then lets fall upon the skirt two short leaCshaped sash tabs edged all about by the pretty quilling Such short tabs on the very smart costumes have ken the place of long orthodox sashes that promise to be early vulgarized by too general and enthusiastic adoption and this suit is an exemplification of the fact that white lacein anabundance is to be used in I all neck decorations NECK DECORATIONS So far there is nothing actually novel to chronicle of collars The dressmaker rather leaves this point to the taste of her customer insisting on nothing and giving this one an old fashioned stock that one a stern high plain tailors band turning back from another sev eral wedge shaped lace tabs but only allowing a slender visage to endure the delicate lace or silk muslin boiulloues under either ear and full at the back Though it is perfectly true that the bell shaped skirt is our destiny throughout through-out the summer and in behalf of the light goods that so lend themselves to spreading bouffante grace a modified umbrella pattern is going to be used by women who lead In fashion A case in point is the black silk mull gown displayed It illustrates two laws of spring dressmaking that every skirt in light goods must be flounced and that a flounce laying any claim to modernity mod-ernity must be cut on the bias This lovely toilet is built of a perfectly new mull checked with a black silk line and every flounce edged with an inch I ia i i 1 j c 4 4 S T 1 f I I I S 5 ii A DAHLIA FOULARD GOWN tation in fabrics since last weeks gossip gos-sip in fashions was written is the Persian Per-sian silk linen above referred to SOME EXQUISITE NOVELTIES Brown batiste is the actual foundation founda-tion of this material interwoven with I silk stripes in an open mesh but a contrasting color Some examples of I this new weave show the silk stripe I divided from the linen by a very narrow I nar-row lace line nearly all of the examples exam-ples so far exhibited display embroidered embroid-ered dots and vines in white on the alternating i al-ternating bands of pale blue silk and ecru linen or scarlet linen and ecru silk But if ones soul does not yearn I over these frilly crisp breadths there is a noveltv to attract on the cloth counter a lightweight perfectly I smoothfaced cheviot woven in small i sixsided squares of green and brown ideal for a spring suit Rubbing elbows I el-bows with this in excellent new shades of pavement gray and pine bark brown I is a comparatively new French wool weave under the very nondescriptive title of etincelle In this case however I how-ever the name is of no importance and the bearer of it is like an ideal summers weight camels hair if tbttt I I can be imagined ar t NEW FOULARDS 1 Every week in the leastexpected < < f wide footing of black silk muslin All this cool stately beauty is draped over a golden brown taffeta the mousque taire sleeves banded with narrow bronze brown velvet ribbon and miroir velvet of the same shade forming the girdle and collar On the simple waist a band of figured black silk muslin appears I ap-pears and a touch of cream point dAlencon at the throat relieves the airy gloom of this very delectable suit meant to be worn with the very gayest of hats CHARMING HATS I It is on the hat where color and plenty of it shall come in this season I for in tailor suits one of the leading combinations is black and white The trying severity yet undeniable effectiveness effect-iveness of this arrangement appears in the spring walking suit that will serve only as a snare and a false friend to any but the most slimly built woman Unfortunately stout short individuals will fall a prey to It for the tailor looks aghast If he is asked to make a coat with the least shadow of a shade of tail By way of immense co cession he will if driven into a corner give one a short or very long postillion labs behInd be-hInd but It is rank heresy to insist on a blessed bit of curtaining over the front and hips The walking suit sketched shows the new tailormade J j accordion skirt of rich satinysurfaced I black ladies cloth This skirt Is laid I in sunray plaits That is deep and close at the top and broad and shal low Oft the bottom It is hung separately sepa-rately on a silk sham and is tppped off by a jacket of white ladies cloth q decorated a le militaire with black i silk braid while a full jabot of lace I falls from the throat Exceedingly smart variations on this are made In j 4 I I I EMBROIDERED LINEN 1 skirts of black worn with green cloth coats heavily braided in brown or black skirts and coats of Ophelia purple pur-ple ladies cloth braided in black and tinsel The sleeves of the newest coats I are cut with a most infinitesimal ful ness at the shoulder and later on coats I like this will be thrown open in front to exhibit shirts of scarlet percale and J I linen frill brightened by wee black or white polka dots and showing broad I box plaits down the bosom WhIte turn 1 over collars and white cuffs distinguish this rather vivid linen POPLINS AND LACE Sofar the only direct use we will apparently ap-parently have for lace is to decorate the moired poplins referred to before It seems to be decided that lace is their one affinity in the way of trimmings trim-mings and heavy ecru batiste lace now made with wonderful fineness and N I 1j j 1 1 > y MUSLIN DE SOIE OVER BRONZE RED SILK beauty of design is the appropriate species On a clever little toilet complete com-plete for a spring trousseau the watered wa-tered poplin was in one of the novelty shades called silver blue a deep almost al-most sapphire in the folds changing chang-ing to silver white on top of the creases creas-es An ecru batiste lace flounce was by bouquets of blue baby velvet ribbon rib-bon caught to the skirt ten inches below the hip line and the waist unr relieved save by a sholder berth formed of three falls of lace had Itsi front done on a Paris mode than which there is nothing more recent That is gathered and drawn in full horzontalf wrinkles across the bust to fasten under un-der the left arm These wrinkled fronts are invariably accompanied by fulfl gathered mousquetaire sleeves that nowi frequently have a narrow frill of laces gathered the length of the outside seam NINA FITCH |