OCR Text |
Show I " IMOTIfiFm EMSMM WWlaAMD) ' rmimmw MATS : , 'HEW; '-$SH BL-1 4 Gray and While Marabout on a Pink Peau de Soic Evening Wrap. I V ' Pboto Copjri;St. 1912, hr Ilf allmc- fMalD JUrala) J KxdnoiTf Coiiyrijlit, 1012. fw larl Ucpld Ceaipatu l tfCoprrtelit 1012. 1)7 Jbc New io:U Herald Co -Ml- clshts rMr.) - i fljjk t "9rW(?ri2'"''' m05t noticeable thfug & ( EJfcjjvS about tlic autumn li.it If f $S 1 1 n,otIo,s is tuc'r l'cculinr Hi si WsrW M sic. They are neither 'ft flPsV:?) it, ' i3LtDXi-s largc or bnmii( of a aire l that bns not been woru fo. a good many H jear antl wcrc Jt n0t f0r tllC DCW qtyl f If trimniins tbey would seem decidedly old II i fashtonrd. Head sizes are siiullci, brirua narrow and rolling, but this 5ecms to jro vitli the ciossfyle.oC-riairare-ing. muchbpt ter than did the larger bats The pressed shapes cou'e in any of the three ben or piles or ehet There is also a elet aud a shagj felt. Sonie-times Sonie-times a pressed brim is, utcd ith .i made crown. Some of the new models in the made hits look very unfcii like the old style -walLins hat. They arc nude with velvet brinib and taffeta 'crowns, which are rather high and cylindrical. Avilh aRalnK edges showing a corded piping: and Hid bUnuf I 6lJes Ia!l1 '" ,iarrow fonIci1 Pleats of liio !e , I tTffeta. I'rince of Wales tips or No Ri?rcttcs nrrangvKl ig slender sroupiris t orjaSjIt nre posed at the sides or back. aacaUtff ! 'jlle cylindrical crown itb narrow c!enJ IngoJl brim is a shape that Is likely to be veiy orsej&pB becoming to a stout or middle aged woman, and such a hut is no longer to be .placed on the back of the head, but j should be worn straight, or at just thei least angle. Eicii in the moic youthful stiles, outside of the Tarn o' Shunter crowns, which camel in lJit scabon. the crowns aic smaller, nndj with the rolling brim gie the head quite a difieicnt shape. The biim edge, except i in the mora tailored models, is no longer j bjoctbonall. Some' ohco smlk models , are quite saucer shaped and at first glance j look like a child's hat. ' Taupe colored lials seem to be almost as popular as Ji'.ack and aic often trimmed with that color, or a black hrft will hac a taupe feather. Aigrettes, still slyli&b in Paris but prohibited from rale in Now York, are replaced by various feather "fantasies," some of them exeeedmglj at-, tractive. The osprey aigrette is usod j where lightness aud daintiness are re-( quired, 'and the small slender ostrich lips I are fashioned into ornaments that may be ( i0icd at ail angles, as" aie aigrettes. reaihur. fronds make smart brush cock-1 tides Some of the uncurled fcatheis look i I like fringe, and a hat rompklelj coiered i mlh them is a Tans noell. 1 " HS- If- WKKfir?,' as?rafc"l vice, ssiJ$B8-M?-X ' "wSS ItrjA U Stt View 0 Honing Gov.n with Tapestry Beading. Showing the Under Set MolfTs jeCtrJlK of 'White. out,. niri3 lilt Pboto CopjrlsliL mi l-T Keotlliufr - 'ill? . BriiilTi;oiijrlclil.lD12. Nr Trl.ll5tMCnioj 4MF I Trimmings arc very scant on the zqa-J zqa-J son's mddcls; where flowci-s are used two 'or three ore crushed Into a rosette form to j catch back a brim edge. Tho dahlia, ultra. TUB New Small Crowned Hat ot Black VeWet, the Up- , Taupe Plush Covered Hat, with Alflrettes 5am Tone. Black Satin Hat Trimmed with Velvet Facing and The New Small Velvet Felt HaLTrimnted with a vvh.t WiiiiiH per Brim and Flowers Rose Pink. .ow.. cwnu. h-m Band. Double Aigrette. A Incite 1111H PMo CopjT'cU 1012. by nfntllnr Piato Copjnxht. 1012, tr Builmi.r Pot rrii.hi mi ft,"n,nfiin,.. IH uc' HiilllH I EjcIuiItt Copyrljtr. 101J, N York Uet.W CntB7 Xieloiltc CcrrrltbL, 1912. TV BtnW Cmw Eidnt. CoraHrti. tip Nt tm .t io,M- . fMto Copjrlxht, UU2. bx reoillnr-r H ILlllB fashionable In Pans, is mide of silk, its pecompanjiug leaes and the color, being paiticularl fashionable at present, it is ery desirable for hat decoration. Tour car). Taris models, here photographed, photo-graphed, illustrate some of these style points very nicclj. The small sauceilike brim aud crown in the velvet hat with the rhile aigicttu shows how those hats arc to bo worn, as does the black tatin trimmed with vchet with the windmill aigrettes. A covered frame of taupe plush, with a soft Tam o' Shantor crown has the taupe aigrette placed in one of tho new eccentric ways. The one broader bummed hat has a 6niall crown, tho simplicity of "which is varied by tho upper part of the allk brim matching I he pink rose In color. Thib contrast of colors is often seen ou the new hats with effective results, as it takes away In a measure from the severity of A Velvet Wrap Covered with a Tapestry Beading Design Combined with Embroid ery and Chiffon. yiwa nirxin) Pholn Copjrlclil 1112, hj Ilrallinr Kiccxrr Corjnti 1112. Hw ork Ilnld Cnapsny tho present styles. For instance, u tla hat. instead of being faccnl under the trim with a color, will lime what othei-wise othei-wise would be an ocibnui facing, onl. 'that the facing is -wider than the bum itself and drops an inch or so ovci the edge Real lace berthas posed over some dainty tint of chiffon are placed in this i way on the eluboratc hats. I New Evening Dresses and Wraps. Hint of color and glitter distinguishes this winter' ccning dress and wrap. The Orient ins been lausackcd b the designers design-ers of materials for silks, satins, brocades, .gauzes and laces, and the result has been the most gorgeous effects. EonIng iwiaps are as luxurious as any thii have 'oi or been -worn. Brocading is done on any kind ot foundation, from wool to gauze, no that in a -whole bevj of fair women m attiied there would still be neither sameness nor monotony. Threads ofold and aiher arc Snlciwoeii In the nvatcnals foi added richness The real noiclty both in evening drcsset and wraps In in tho embroideries of beads on all manner of lextuics. Crjslil ones arc prefcued, but pearl and crystal b".ids combined are bowii on uatcrial in wondci-fullj wondci-fullj beautiful designe, the pearl perhaps forming the centre of an Oriental flower, the petals done in the crystal beads, both tubular and round, and with a gold lining to the 'bead that bIiows through. Coral and gold beads are used also our There Ls the detachablo sash which may black net, and tho old fashioned iri- bo worn on different gowns and the Bash descent bead is combined with bltck or toat id an intimate and Inseparable part silver. Often the beads are applied in 0f the frock. o sort of tapestry effect, the design formed 0nc oC thc but marial5 for tllc dc. bj lines of them running parallel to each lachable sash is velvet ribbon, especially other. One of -the Pails niodclt? shown hlick, whicli gives a smart touch to Hhf on (Jus rage ib a velvet -wrap embroidered or daik gowns. The tentative introdtic- Jn this manner, dark blue in color, em-bioidered em-bioidered with silver beids. Thc chiffon fichu is several tones lighter, as fs also the embroidered band that forms thc lower part of the wrap. . little silk ball fringe follows all edges of ''e wrap, one ot those vague forms, half cape, half dolmau. The other wTap l oL roie ptal pink peau de soic, on loose kimono lines, and adorned with strips of marabou, thc centre one flecked -with gray. A heavy guipure embroidery follows thc movement of these revors. It iH in this typo of wrap that tho brocades show to beet advantage, ad-vantage, enhanced by outlining fur feathers feath-ers or marabou. One of thc evening gowns shown hero in two views is of salmon colored sarin covcrod by an overdress of black mous-sellne mous-sellne de foie, effectively embroidered with old gold and white beads. Under ihid ouibrmdcrj arc set large whito chifton motifs, leaf shaped, at irregular intenals. There is a fuuge of heads on thc tunic dgcs and a two toned salmon pink sash folds unevenly about the waist. The onlj novelty in the cut of this gown is in the way the tunic is drawn about the figure. Oriental fashion, and the coit tail basque, always so becoming lei stout hgures. Quite the reverse of this is thc other! gown on this page, the latest intcrpretn lion of the pannier, which, as will be seen, is combined with drapery. It is girlish in line and could easily be mcta-moiphosed mcta-moiphosed Into a wedding gown for the autumn bride by omitting tho fur and lengthening the sleeves. It ia carried out hi coral mousBC-linc do soie, and an un-usml un-usml feature is that there is no lace on thf gown; the yoke is ovcrbound simply with u wide bias fold. Slender bands of fur edge thc sleeves and trim thc pannier. pan-nier. Fantasy of the Sash. SASIIKS have attached thcmsolves to the fall frocks with a persistence thut establishes them ai a feature of this season's fashions. They range all the way from prim little bows with straight streamers to fantastic arrangements that form an Integral part of thc drapeiy which takes ueh Innumerable form oa c gown of the hour. tion of plaids affords an excellent oppor- lunity for their utilization in thc sash, cither in ribbon or in silk, the latter ha-- J mg thc advantage of bang soft and inoro ' adaptable than ribbon to Oie season's modes. The plaid sashes can. be -worn with only a few costnmc, much greater restraint being required in their use than in that of plain ilk ones. Sashes, whether detachable or a part of the gown, arc fro placed as to emphasiM thc height of thc -waist lirre, although discretion dis-cretion must b employed in this matter to avoid the grotesque and to fit thc eash adjustment to thc style of tho gown. This' boldi? true also of the form of tho bow, which usually has the loops placed up and down. Sometimes, however, they have a horizontal position, or the bow is rosette in form or composed of a. cluster of rosettes. Loops are frequently irregular ir-regular In length, one or two falling nearly near-ly to the bottom of the ends of tho sash. This is particularly m where thc sash is made of velvet. Sometimes the bows are ornamented with buckles colored -with the Mine material or arc of metal. There is at present no great tendency to exaggeration of width in thc sash, except ex-cept where it becomes n part of the drapery, and here it is diflicult to tell just where it begins or ends. Fringe is ued to some extent on tho Mish ends, although hardly as much as was anticipated carliei in the season. Brocaded sashes for plain frocks are likely to make a bid for favor, and a glint of silver -will appear in the more elaborate ones. Aside fioni its being placed high on the waist line, there seems to be no definite defi-nite lule as to sash end placing It sometimes some-times shows itself directly in tho control of the back. Sometimes it comes almost! I'nder the shoulder blade. With a llttlel modification it appears in front, usually a) l.ttle lowci aud at the left hand Ide Some of the wide, pliublo ubbons are, lied around thc waist so that only one It-ng end falls at one side of the front I This end is looped back into the belt at! I he amo phec. iiiakinz thus one long loop instead of two ends. As the ribbon is cry wide it givs a curious effect of dm per,). Sometimes this loop is placed (Jirecll. at tho back; when it is uot mad' as long as thc dioss, and to it is added) one long end lhat reaches to the hem. .gun the loop extends both above ind below, the distance nbove Imr than that below and giving a Japanese touch jo (he costume. 1 Upholstefy Trimmings. WOMDN who are looking for unusual trimmings for their evening gowns nnd opera clonks arc uow findm:: lhat many of tho upholstery shops, particularly par-ticularly those which import or have man-ufaeluied man-ufaeluied for their own trade umisu tl and beautiful fabrics, aie worth while lsit-Ing lsit-Ing in a search for particular color harmonies har-monies and des!gn:. There arc brocades, velvet, ilk aud those hiving gold thread which arc very satisfactory for thc panelling of gowns or t lie trimming of opera cloaks aud indeed for entire cloaks. Rich Tolvcts, heavy satins and plnshes and wonderful designs in taffeta arc aldo to be found in the upholstery up-holstery shops, Many of the more cle-gint cle-gint of thc fhops do quite a business in iiippl)ini' coverings for the feminine fair themselves as well as for their farmture. For thc small thentre caps, which aic made of hea'vy gold fabrics, the women also turn to the draperv nhops Something New in Separate Waists and Blouses. THC new separate -naist, made to bo worn with this winter's tailor made suit, is decidedly differeul from those that have been worn the lost few season Such waists havo been usually veiled with chiffon matehing thc tnllorcd ekirt as exactly ex-actly as po-siblc in color, but these new lnodcb arc made of supple- brocade, plain or embroidered crepe de Chine, silks in Ottoman weaves and plain and figured eponge fabrics, and thc coloring", whether plain or combined, ar& brilliant, to say the least, Ao long as they are thc same color as thc tailored suit they need not bo exactly thc samo tone, or, as in a combination of materials and colors, only th& vest, rovers or yoke need match the miit matcrirth Although the colore arc strong, the cftcct, ot these waista is not cumbersome or heavy, for all the new silks and satins arc supple and the models arc not over-trimmed. over-trimmed. A good example of tho brilbancy of the combinations i waist of peacock blue clours epiogW, a material that looks like a very supple ottoman with a vehct sheen. It is cut out vest fashion in front, low enough to nhow an inner est o oldf gold satin brocade, with rcers that overlap over-lap the bine edges. Thc yellow is introduced in-troduced again in a pointed cuff on the' long sleeve, thc yoke" and collar, of Alencon' lace is a shade off -white. On tho bluoj body and sfeevej arc broad matching mam II fffffffft , iiffffffffffffffi fV 'H slight fulness above the cuff, and in such HSt' 'l sleeves there is a certain loosencs to thc jKr cut. Tho sleeve sews or is stitched into m il thc armhole under a tuck or a corded Kf l piping. Bi. ll In the white blouses the brocades ire HJP'H lovelj. They aie finished at the throat HPV. with some kind of a rolling collar, a era- jH vat of silk ribbon with a picot edge oi H' 1 ands of oponge. jonc oC tn? ovcj. D(nr coiors, and Foino iH In tho simpler models on the blouse land of a frill, often of plain hemstitched H'H ypo satin brocided designs on silk arc lawn, in front. B''l n lovely tones like mngciitn, sulphur or j Batiste and lawn waists have many BH Chinese blue, and they are trminicd with j tucks, but little lace is used. Prills form B)H hiffou collars and tinted lace jnbots or an inipoilant pa'-t of the decoration at IH-i'I 'rills. Long sleeves arc the rule, with1 nock and wrists, finely pleated and gen- Vl te , IE 'IIhKaV i3 ill Old Gold Beads and Baroque Pearls. Done in Tapsstry Design on Chifforr. P Photo Copyiljbl. 1011. br Hfututw (KiUou Rlrtlai 9 JBH EicIiuItc Cowrlgbt. 1013. Nt lorL UcnlJ Ciakuy JH hardly an exception, on all of thc blouses Uoth waists nnd blouses button m front Sometimes the opening is hidden under smplice fronts, sometimes amber, ior) or cr;, Htal ball buttons arc used . While Iho long sleeves do not show a miff in anv pari there is some'iiue-. n era lb hemstitched Tiniest of pearl but- nlBll tons, rather thick through, make little iUbISb trimming lines, holding down, the centre ; Kfi of thc jabot 3 rill or following, clustered Klllfl in threes and fours, iluwn (he front and FMbSSsI on the si(.oe, lu i.ghten them at the I H - t -'H . ., 1 M thDrwre'etTouoli of.Fur Trimming of This Year's Evening Gown, , jH JixcHri Qnnxitbt, JQJ, Xcjrflrk HtrW OoqiJSnr ( ' H I |