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Show Women's World Professional Cutting Tricks Permit Ultimate in Sewing '"PAKE a critical look at soma of the clothing or other Items you have sewed in the past Do they look as though they had been bought or does something label them as homemade? True, clothing made at home frequently fre-quently has better sewing in it but if it does not have styling or flair or effect, as some people call it it hasn't achieved the ultimate in sewing. sew-ing. It's a real art to cut properly before be-fore you actually embark on the sewing itself, and much can be achieved when a garment is cut properly and marked explicitly. Alterations Al-terations on a pattern must be made before cutting or the garment gar-ment will not have the styling which your figure problem may dictate. Before buying a pattern, study your figure type and select the lines most becoming to you. Buy the fabric fab-ric to fit the pattern as well as to fit yourself. Even though you buy a pattern closest to your size, there may be a few adjustments necessary before it really fits well. Taking measurements measure-ments will help, pinning the pattern together and trying it on is also Cut fabrics on floor , , , good. However, If you are using a very expensive fabric, stitch the pattern In cheesecloth or muslin first, then rip and use it for cutting and making the dress or blouse itself. it-self. A pattern is really a recipe or guide, and it pays to study the detailed de-tailed instructions that go with it so that you will have a complete picture pic-ture of Just what is done to make the finished garment Assemble Equipment; Cut on Table or Floor Everything needed for the sewing project should be assembled, to prevent pre-vent running off for basting thread or needles, and thus Interrupting your train of thought Thread nee- Mark them u ilb (balk. dies before cutting so that any basting bast-ing or markers that you need will be right at hand. Sharp cutting shears, either with plain or pinked edges, are essential. You also may like to have a small pair of nicely sharpened scissors for cutting notches. Have plenty of pins, threaded needles, chalk, tape measure and ruler at hand. Unless you have a large table which can be padded. It's best to use the floor. A surface that allows plenty of room, as well as one from which pieces of pattern and material materi-al won't slip off. la essential to good cutting. Never try to cut fabric that Is wrinkled or torn at an angle. Some materials will need pressing to smooth them before cutting Is done. If the uncut edge la not smooth, Bold Look Pptp-mtrr.ri.n-v.tl iiijii)t(WWpt mum . ... , -'- - 1 Ihxo i nirf)w;M v.vv U1,fc.j.: Men's shoes are featuring the bold look, as shown here In Win-throp'a Win-throp'a variation on the wingtip lace oxford. A conventional wing-tip wing-tip design extends from the Inside over the tip of the shoe, flowing then Into a curved tip line on the outside. The shoes shown here are In Imported gorse, with a long vamp circling the entire quarter. The Up Is medallion with a special medallion added to the quarter at the lace row. The shoe also feat-urea feat-urea white sole stitching. draw out a cross thread and cut along this line so the fabric will be straight. If you cannot draw out a thread, mark the fabric with chalk and ruler, then cut along the line. If the fabric is a second or has flaws and Imperfections in it mark these with pins, basting or chalk, so you'll notice them during cutting and can piece the pattern properly to avoid them. Check the fabric for right and wrong side, marking the right side with pins so that it can be seen easily when you lay the pattern on it. Study Fabrics Before Cutting When you plan to cut napped fabrics, fab-rics, lay the pattern pieces on it so that all pieces point the same way. This is done so that the nap will all run the same way when the garment Is finished. Velveteen, corduroy and velvet are some of the more common com-mon naped fabrics, and they should be studied so that you will know how to cut them. If you are in doubt as to whether the fabric is napped, feel it. If it has the feeling of fur, you will know It is napped. , Sheen fabrics also must be stud-led stud-led before cutting, and here again, it Is important to place all pieces of the pattern running the same way before cutting. Sheen fabrics, such as satin, catch the light in different dif-ferent ways, and cutting this way ! Is a necessity or It will look as though you had used different pieces of material Both sheen and napped fabrics are best cut on a rough surface such i as the floor so they won't slip. If you are using a table, lay a sheet or other piece of material on it so that the materials do not slip as you cut Take care to fold the material on the straight of the goods or along the lengthwise threads If you want the garment to hang properly. If you do not check this little matter of the fold, you are apt to have a crooked dress. The fold Is particularly Important when you cut sleeves, for if the pattern pat-tern is not placed on the grain of the fabric, the sleeve always will twist no matter how much you try to remedy the fault In sewing. Follow the Guide In Cutting Patterns A guide usually Is given with a pattern which you purchase. It's wise to study this and lay the fabric with the pieces as directed because, as you study, you will see there's always a reason, and a good one for doing It a certain way. The pieces should be pinned be- fort you cut Insert the pins from the top, without slipping your hand underneath the fabric. Wherever the pieces are curved, use a lot of pins so there Is no chance of slipping. slip-ping. A good seam allowance la made In most patterns, but Ifa a good Idea to allow more of a seam if you are using material that ravels easily. eas-ily. Ifi especially important to make an extra seam allowance on the underarm seams of such material ma-terial Cut with a long steady motion, slid lng the scissors along In a gliding motion so that the cut will not bt uneven or ragged. The thick blada of the shears la placed above the material and the pointed one underneath. under-neath. Use the middle of the bladei tor cutting as this will give the smoothest edge If the pattern advises the sleeves to be cut double, this means that they are reversed. As you remove the pins from the pieces, fold one sleeve one way, and the othe"r in another way. When the sleeve Is cut single, placo on fabric and cut To cut the second sleeve, the pattern must be turned and reversed as It Is placed on the material Mark with chalk all notches and ' other notations after cutting to help guide your sewing. |
