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Show I Ewhnl in Ireland I j Ey IQffiV a. BLZC'A (Copyright, 1003. l.y John A. Black.) PA I IT VIII. At G o'clock we sailed down the Littey and out into Dublin hay past Huwth Head, a peninsula crowned by Jlowlh hill, and past Ireland's Kye .i. little island above Heath Head. As Ilowth Head is under Ireland's K.ve. it must be .Ireland's nose, j which she was blowing lustily at ms ns wo' pnxed the lipht house, in lonp- fo--hori! sports which J reminded me of Dcneou MrtoWhun's blasts ju-t l.e- fore the icvinon on S;tSb;ith men;i;tr. j A few days later I waked up and pnkir.p; out of my stateroom saw th.it I was back apain at tho Xorth wall in Dublin: and 1 wa alone, for Kscula-pius Kscula-pius and T had grasped hands in Liverpool the day before and said poodby lo each oihor till we should meet again beyond the wide sionuy ocean. CI oil willing; said goodby as well as we could with lumps in our throats, and heaviness in our hearts; and if we had not cut it short. I suspect both of u- certainly Esculapius -hould have disgraced ourselves our-selves with tears; for we were in no shite to stand the wrench our stoicism havintr given away before be-fore repeated attacks of homesickness. The boat which brought ni" over from Liverpool Liver-pool was a veritable XoahV. ark in the variety of its cirgo. There were a doy.cu motor cars it was the day before the great international motor race and with them were caretakers and doivt-care-for-auybody drivers and their friends, all dressed in outlandish, fashion; 1 esides there were chaps with single eye-glasses and brains to match: the other animals such as horses, cattle and a pack of dogs whoso quarters were near enough to my stateroom state-room to bedog my sleep most of the night. Put there was no Jonah on board, so we got safely over. Ami Ireland was all sunshine to welcome me back. About noon I got off iu the long, straggling procession of motor cars, motor cycles and bicycles which was moving out toward Kileulleii and the motor race territory. It was a tine day, and the ride out Thomas street, James street, past Kilmain-ham Kilmain-ham prison, and through Goldenbridge, Iiathooole and Kill to Xaas, was so delightful that I grew sentimental and vowed to Lrin never to seolel again, rain or shine; and tho next morning was cold and cloudy and I grumbled and Erin wept. The few villages on this road arc small and dilapidated, and many of the houses along the way were vacant and falling down. Xaas is said to be one of the oldest towns in Ireland; and it was once a royal town a residence of the kings of Leinster, whose retinues filled its streets. Today a far different herd is here; king and gallowglass are gone, and Xaas is possessed of devils or thing that look like the devil, anyhow who, with masked faces, and strange, unearthly dress, shoot about on dust-begrimed, panting, wheezing, snorting infernal machines, ma-chines, filling the town with the odor of the pit; Xaas is pandemonium let loose! It is the weighing-in station for the racing cars, which draws the crowd here. There are Englishmen, English-men, Frenchmen, Germans and Americans, with their long, low, fierce-looking racing cars; and here and there is to be seen an Irishman, with his meek-looking meek-looking donkey, in striking contrast with the scene about him. From motor car to donkey is a long way, measured by speed; but measured by reliability relia-bility and safety, it is not so far, for the motor car has some tricks which the most precocious donkeys have never learned. Late in the afternoon, as I lay by the roadside, stricken by loneliness in the midst of so much life j who should come whrclinj; alonpr hut 31 r. S , ! who jiourod tho oil of prood-iVllowrship into my wotnuis ami hcidod my honioickms. Vo kopf en I lo Kik'iillou, a vilhijri' iu hc vsilloy i' tho LiriVy. j which divides the town into two parts, hrtweeu ; which is a very old hriilue. We were anxious to p'.-t inside the race course for tho liisrht. for nil ! road were to ho closed at l' o'clock the next ninrn-1 ninrn-1 in.a'. so we kept on toward Athy to Konstown. After i cajivits.-iiiir tl'.e country from house to house till ni;rht was upon us. we were offered "such as 1 have'' ! Iiy a. widow with three "chick.' whose rather poor ' house, very poorly kept, -toed at the foot of tho ; hill helow the main n ad. ; A V.;p f tay"' hoiied over craeklinc- thorns; a : hiti of meat horrowed from the colonel's, near hy; I and Invad. from we cared not where, for it was 1 r.ood, made us comfortahle internally.' A room : with mother earth for a floor; a single bed, divided hetwe-u us; a loud lickin.!? ch'ck whose strike i sounded like the arrival of the .Dublin express; a I "i-hii-k" bawliusj witli toothache all these thin.es j worked to.u'ether to make us hail the morning with ; .ulailix'ss. After partakinjr of a second edition of j last ni.u!its supper wo hurry off. for the French ! cars are already buzzinp- and snortina- over at tho i colonel's, where the Frenchmen are quartered. They are off! And from a seat on a fallen tree ; we watched the Kniilishmen. Hermans. French- men and Americans, crouching low in their cars, j shoot past us like (.-scaped demons fleeing; from the j j;ates of hell. ; About noon we rode over to Kildare, where, ! after mixinr with the frood-natured crowd for an I hour, we parted ajrain Mr. S. -oin? to Dublin. T ! to 3Iaynooth. The next morning' in Maynooth I j saw a. fellow with a Dublin paper from which ho I was reading to a group which stood round him, and lasked what the news was;. and was told that I "the (iarmens bate in the motor race.' Kildare needs no introduction to any Irishman, for where is ihe Irishman, or the son of one. who ! has not heard of tho Curragh'of Kildare and its ' great horse races ( But Kildare 's renown rests on greater t hinges than these. About 1..100 years ago a nun built for herself a little house or cell under an oak; it came to be known as the Church of the Oak, which is Kildare. The nun came to bo known as St. Brigit of Kildare, renowned then ami ever since for her sanctity and good works. She is loved and venerated by the Irish people as one of the chiefest among many saints. ''Bridget' sometimes some-times sneered at as having the odor of the kitchen on it is fragrant with the incense of a beautiful life; and is a name to be proud of. The little cell which she built grew into the largest and most famous fa-mous nunnery in Ireland. Here, we are told, the sacred fires never died on the altar for 700 years, till in the thirteenth century, when they were extinguished. ex-tinguished. But they were again kindled and kept alive for over 200 years. But to its Curragh races, and not its saints, is due the present-day notorictv of Kildare! "It is the tower of the Hill of Allen," paid the lad whom lasked about the tower on a very conspicuous con-spicuous hill a few miles north of Kildare. A castle of the kings of Leinster once adorned the top of the hill. At a public house at the foot of a hill I asked for the place called rhe-Leap of Allen, Al-len, and was informed that I was theno n the very spot where "Finn McCoul made a great jump, an' that is why it is called the lep of Allen." Across the great bog of Allen on a bog road five or six feet above the surrounding land from which the turf has been cut, in a drifting rain, is a dreary enough journey. Although it is not such a great black stretch of "bad lands" as it once was, yet under the shadow of the thick clouds which drift low across it today, it looks fierce and unfriendly; and I shall welcome a hill to lift me out of this cavern-like place between black, clouds and blacker bog lands; for on such a day as this, if ever, it will i ' I do the awful dod Miirgoted by i;no jra!us rhyin- j or wlm wr.t' : ! "('real I'ng nf All'Mi waih'v dwn I liar odious heap died l'hi'iptowu ; ; And if thy maw can swallow more, ! Pray fakt and wdeiiw 1 u'ia move." ' Kaiu drove me into" the home of ojic of t'r'o j hog-dwellers, and tin' contract befw-i e. tin- iiiow.T- ! ing look of the country and the broad. I i ; i r s i i 1 1 u" !';!'. ; of this In-hmau prove- that one need nor , . j uatured and unhappy because he live-, in a !, ; lie was so cheery and talkative that he foriror to ' take his turn at the diher of the I. jo- churn in the ! middle of the room. "Shore the land i had. but some have worse. I'm told." ""o. I t.ever though' I j mucli of goin our to Amer'na;" "ye-, it i- ;i rear 1 I country intireiy. no doubt, but i was hon: on the j ould bog here, and it's not o cay to lave it. sir." i Don't leave it! You're happier, my nsat:. and bet- ; tor here than in some crowded city iu America! Whim 1 left Kildare I was intending to ;;o ;o ' Riithangau. but 1 got off ihe road iu .-.uue turn and v.':i- too eurel -s where I went to yo hack, for T : had no plan- except to keep tiavolinir north a fan- . cy or accident led me; so it was accident that led ; ni" to Kiltneage, a ch an. nicely-. -ituated little vil- ' lage; and to IVo.-jijeroiH. which ha- no visible -igns : of pro-perity. except here ami there a spot of now 1 thatch on -ome of it roof-, -bowing like a civam- ; colored .patch on a bn wn coat. I'roin lnuc on to i Mayuooth the country i- k-vi t and thinly settled. ( To be continued. ) i |