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Show I P&xis Predicts Season of Lace j I. April 3. Paris Is gay with the life and brightness of her pprlng season. These months at " the capital arc attracting each ear a larger number of smart merlcans, who haw charming apart-lents apart-lents on the fashionable avenues, In -hlch they entertain lavishly and spend melt of their time selecting toilets for ic London June season and the sum-ler sum-ler campaign at Newport. In the artistic world the election of arolus-Duran to succeed the late M. erome as a member of the French cademy of Fine Arts was an interest-ig interest-ig cvenL One of the traditions of the cademy Is that candidates are never lected on their flrst presentation, and . Is a curious fatality that makes Car-us-Duran Geromc's successor, as he a3 systematically balked In his at-smpts at-smpts to enter the Beaux Art3 by the lan whose seat he now occupies. Above thr flotsam and Jetsam of other llnga there Is always In the fcmlnlno ilnd the Important Item of clothes, and le fascinating costumes of spring are orthy of serious consideration. It Jias sen said that "summer garments are :r less expensive and tiresome than inter ones." This remark, like many ' the good old adages. Is put on the tired Hot by the present extravagance ' summer furbelows; not that the nount spent on clothes Is a criterion, woman In sables may appear far less Hfdlstlngulshcd than another In a plain M coat and skirt. It Is singular, con-ilderihg con-ilderihg all the money spent on m Clonics and the lovely fabrics to be 9 found on the shop counters, how few 1ireally well dressed women are met In the ordinary way. Consequently 2 mondalne whose toilets ore always In good taste demands admiration and Instant In-stant attention. The fact Is that perfect per-fect dressing, like everything else. Is "Sh accomplishment sometimes natural, iome times acquired, and, no matter Wow well a gown fits. It la the attention to detail that counts. Only the few rc-Rllze rc-Rllze this and follow the necessary Intricacies In-tricacies throughout a toilet which Vnnkcs a successful ensemble, for, however how-ever extravagant a woman may be with regard to her wardrobe, unless she has the happy faculty of knowing what Suits her she will easily be put In the pilhade by her poorer sister who knows Vlilow to do Justice to what she has on. ijqMjTo be well dressed today one must "iflmake a serious study of modes, as imany of them are so exaggerated as to mQ almost grotesque on the wrong w:o-S$tnan. w:o-S$tnan. The ateliers "arc full of patrons "ejKklng whether there Ja nothing newer ffihan the full skirts and the large 32SJeeves, and couturlcres arc assuring 'We timid they need not wear gathered giklrts unless they like them, as iherc ire lots of becoming Jupes with flat fHtaIts and others with a few gathers at-"?5ach at-"?5ach side of the front which Increase ) S-e straight frontedness of the figure. . i-it may surprise the unthinking to vJhow that the Parlslennes accept noth-.TltteSg noth-.TltteSg new from their dressmakers until Pjftey have seen It in public and judged tigood points. The gown that the ele-' ele-' fKnt Parlslenne orders for her early Rummer toilet Is almost a copy of her ipfnter costume made In a thinner ma-;fjftrlal. ma-;fjftrlal. In truth. In the best establlsh- h iPnts ln tl10 Rue de ln Palx' place Vendome and Rue TaltbouL the variety of the season's styles lies In the detail of trimming, and not In novelty of shape. This Is to be a great val lace season, both In the real varieties and in Imitations, Imita-tions, some of which It takes an expert to detect, with mechlln, d'alencon and chantllly as second favorites. Lace will be used with profusion on evening and smart day gowns, either gathered or arranged In straight lines or In elaborate elab-orate scroll and floral designs. On linen frocks the renaissance and macramc laces will be most employed, as these heavier examples are appropriate for the stouter weaves of linens now so fashionable. Finely plaited gauze ribbons rib-bons are also ln demand, and a lovely summery trimming Is composed of lace ruches with tiny rosebuds or small blossoms running through the center. The skirts of silk and crepe de sole are trimmed with several flounces of lace, with a simple and effective arrangement arrange-ment of the same on the corsage. I am often asked, "What Is the color of the season?" To tell a woman to wear what suits her best Ib not the business of an authority on fashion, but I should say out of the galaxy of beautiful shades which are permissible this season choose a color that matches your hair or eyes and shows them off j to the best advantage. The great au-I au-I thorltles here are declaring for a soft shade of sago green, for Du Barry, a rich crimson, for all the nuances of white and every tone of blue. In materials every day seems to bring forth, like spring flowers, new beauties. beau-ties. The latest Is a satin very like the old liberty with greater body and less luster. Pongees so delightful for the shirt waist dress in the new designs have colored patterns on a solid background. back-ground. These, though, are not so good as, the flat colors for an entire suit. Barege de sole must not be missing from a list of new dress goods, as It is a novelty which 13 sure to be approved of fashion. It Is glossy and has a PARISIAN HATS AND COATS FOR EARLY SUMMER WEAR. slight rib. Then there are cotton voiles as thin and as sheer as chiffon, together togeth-er with all kinds of mercerized stuffs. Butchers' linen Is made up Into morning morn-ing frocks and separate shirt waists, and for tallorlsh effects It Is Ideal. For rather dressy morning functions there are embroidered linens and finely stitched and tucked batistes, embroidered embroid-ered flannels, serges, canvases and spotted delaines for cool dayB. Here is something new In the way of a lace blouse, that very dainty and becoming be-coming little garment so smart for wearing with the dressy bolero and skirt to theater or restaurant. It Is mounted flrst over the thinnest ot silk slips and made plain so that the exquisite exqui-site pattern of the lace shows to advan-tago advan-tago with only a blouse effcot at the waist. Small leaves of pink taffeta, tho edges dono ln slllc buttonholing, are laid one next the other In a garland outlining outlin-ing the bust and shoulders, A line of leaves trim the edge of the kimono lace sleeve, under which In a puffed affair of chiffon. The shirt waist lnfluenco 13 seen all through fashions, Its loose, comfortable lines being copied ln the most elaborate gowns. Another feature of fashion Is satisfactorily accounted for when one knows that In many of the long shouldered shoul-dered bodices the sleeves are hung in a waistcoat which fits snugly Inside the bodice and appears in a pretty line down the front- One never speaks of a vest now; we have all learned that this charming adjunct Is called a waistcoat. waist-coat. A new idea for fastening down plaits on skirt and waist Is a series of rather large, embroidered dots in silk or mercerized cotton, according to the material on which they are applied. These "dots" take the place of stitching and nre most effective. There Is n little pin dotted, almost transparent silk called call-ed polntllle de sole which is charming for a separate waisL In white with black dots, having a colored cravat drawn through tabs of the silk, a useful use-ful and dainty model Is created. Now that the blouse matciou tho skirt, it lo often dlfHcult to distinguish bctvroen It and the so called corsage. Tho outlines nre the same long ahouldcra, larac sleeves, deep, drnpod oelnture and n pelerine effect cut ln one with the front' emplccement being the characteristic of each. We nhill return thl3 summer to a modified vernloi) of the old fashionefl shawl as a lljrht and graceful wrap, and, Uko most fashions of tho day, It should be worn by tho tall, nvclte woman wo-man and not by the square shouldered, angular creature of quick movemontu and brisk manner. Tboaa little chawi-llke chawi-llke wraps are accompanying the voile and 3llk gowns which aro found so useful use-ful during the hot weather. ! For young glrLs there arc pretty-white med with lace and ohltfon. and others of homespun with fringed endi. Tho d lace shawl wrap with a colored chlllon lining Is stunning. These new wraps will be Ideal for early fall theater wear, where a coat Is the greatest bother In the world to got ln and. out of, and tho last five minutes of the programme are missed by all the women ln the audience audi-ence "trying to And their sleovcs." The long, loose coats of lace, linon and light cloth will again be prominent ln tho summer wardrobe, elaborate ln detail, with deep capes adornod with fringe and lace flowing sleeves. Like the gowns, the new chapcaux are not novel In shape, but It Is In tho disposition of garnitures and ornaments that the old is made now. Tho all round hats are of coarse straw twisted Into becoming shapes and usually un-trlmmod un-trlmmod save for a roll of ribbon' or velvet, with perhaps an owl's head on some of the brown models. One attractive attrac-tive hat is of brilliant beige straw of almost round sliape, worn off the face nnd slightly drooping ln the back. A garland of acacia flowers surrounds the crown, and the brim is faced with tiny ruches of chestnut brown tulle. It really real-ly matters little what tho color or ma-torlal ma-torlal of the summer hat Is, but It must harmonize with or match the costume with which It Is worn. The mission of a hat Is to make Its wearer pretty. If It does that, all elBe Is forgiven. Thero are some rules always to be remembered when selecting millinery. A small face should never be hidden under a plcturo hat of the Gainsborough Gainsbor-ough typo. Do not wear a hat turning back from the face If your beauty Is of the long, oval style. If you have a retrousso nose, novcr wear a hat bent directly ln the middle; a toque will be more becoming. Flowers and feathers should not be Indulged ln by the woman who lays claim to height, breadth or florid coloring. col-oring. If the face Is plump, a shape which follows the outline of the face Is to be avoided. CATHERINE TALBOT, |