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Show New-Form Woman in Making Up I M DooMSessIy. Tends to Wasplike j I , t f I ? ' ' T T l r T T T T T 1 IT I I ' k'j , (New York Ilcu.ild.) jfi jt "Woman is seeking to dellnc her. waist j ; line once more. The "stralRht front," '"' , j as It has been Interpreted for several lj vf Koa-vons, ts a sartorial heresy at pres- I li jt, ent. "Tempora mutantur, et nos fj ; ' mutaimir In 1111s" Is nowhere so true as j J f ' ' in the realm of fashion. To be nccord- ! U;JI Ins to tlio mode women have had to f'i ; 1 change not only the style of their drew, j .(',.; but their physical proportions, 'i .' Soring frocks this year revert "to the u days of our grandmothers In their most ' (! f! pronounced features. The bodlccy, fitted i ,,hl . trimly from tho waist line to the bust, ,i';f suggest the buckram that made the I llgure for fashionable ladles three- , ifii! "luarters of a century ago. The ex- aggerated bouffant effect has disap- I p'jarcd, or at least appears only In the C . i upper part of the bodice. Below that ''!' it cannot be too snug. As in the old ,)' J, time dresses, Innumerable shovt whale- ; jliij bones are used to give the new form, The foundation Is the same, whether ' I j the outside material be put on smooth- 1 b'i, ly. pleated or shirred. Of course It 1 I has to be varied In depth to suit tho j , varying avoirdupois and other physical . ', Idiosyncrasies. It requires a good , j . figure to look well in this season's r, fitted gowns, and women are thereforo j' i devoting their energies to getting the 'l ( llgure required by the up-to-date dress. k The Season's New Figure. 1 1 1 i "It is really very fatiguing," said a i ' . I woman to her dressmaker when told ' f, that her form was well enough for last year's fashions, but would not do I , J at all for this waEon. "Isn't It enough Ii ' t , intu 1 Jiave to casz asiae my gowns as v i ! i they go out of fashion each year, wlth- ''.!,' out being compelled to change my flg- (,,;, j , ure?" ! Yet that Is really what it amounts to. ' -j j The standards of today require that a , i , ' . woman's form should be so totally ili changed that her last year's frock will 1 ' j not lit her. She must be wasp-like of '; ' waist with trim, not too large hips and I llgure only slightly enlarging to the Ii j bust line x .,i ' "The glass of fashion and the mould j. i of form" have altered radically within - three or four years, and the feminine '' I form is so far from being what it used , I to be that dressmakers have had to re- ' ! '; ' vise their measurements and poets ' ought to revise their phraseology. i "Arms about her slender waist," for x J Instance, has become only poetic li- I . ense, for if the amorous swain happily I located tho waist of his sweetheart he . ' i found It far from slender. 1 1 Tho enlargement of this part of the , ,' lady's anatomy Is one of the causes for i : Hie reaction that has set In, although i i In greater part It can be set down mere- i ly to the whim of imperious Dame Fashion, whose accountability never Is . j to be reckoned with, j Most striking of tho changes in the ' feminine figure has been the obvious cr.e of greater size. The woman of to- ' " day is not only distinctly taller, but she ' Is broader and deeper of chest, Prl- y marily, this change In physique Is duo v1' to the interest in sports and outdoor fcfjj life In general which has sprung up , ; - within a few years; to the popularity , of fencing, bowling and other Indoor yl) exercises; to (he enlightened Intelligence Intelli-gence in regard to hygienic laws, and . above all, to the attention she has paid hi, to deep breathing and proper carriage. J i When the petite girl went out of ' a fashion the large girl began to carry her height as If she were proud of It "ti i and to add to it as many inches as pos- 1'" slble. Her shoulders broadened, lost much of their slope and sat out squarely square-ly In masculine fashion. Her chest deepened and all the lines of the figure ere altered. Straight Front Corset. To the straight front corset has been attributed the remaking of the figure In Its most marked aspects, but that was only one of the elements that helped to bring about the transformation. transforma-tion. It was an important one, however, how-ever, and chlelly so because the average woman had been so badly corseted for years. Only the woman of extreme wealth and fashion or the occasional woman with an eye to details had bothered about her corset. The average I woman bought one, hit or miss, about her size, and with a half thought of her obesity or leanness, but that it should be iltted to her as her gown was titled, that It should alter or In any way modify her figure except by equeezing her in about the waist, was foreign to her thoughts. She expended about as much consideration upon its purchase as she did upon that of a spool of thread. She wore It only because she felt sloppy without it. Then there began -an era of corset specialization. Probably it vas Inaugurated In-augurated by spme Ingonlus corsetlere for commercial reasons. "Madam, your figure is bad," suggested sug-gested the canny corset maker. "Well, I've pulled it in as tight as I can." "Yes, but not In tho right place. Your corset Is not adapted to your figure. No lady need have a prominent abdomen If she will wear a proper corset." No Two "Women Alike. This had seemed a fatal necessity to women aflllctcd with too much Mesh below be-low the waist line, and the suggestion that there was salvation for them was too welcome to bo ignored. Every stout woman went forthwith to buy her a corset that would subdue the too prominent promi-nent portion of her figure. As every woman differs In form from every other woman in the world. It was decreed that each individual must be fitted with the corset which her peculiar form demanded. de-manded. Several uniform principles were Insisted upon, however, and it Is adherence to them that has wrought some of tho most pronounced changes in the feminine llgure. One of these was the mnndatc .that the medial line from throat to ankle down the front of the figure should be absolutely perpendicular. per-pendicular. In obedience to that, woman wo-man began to lose the slight Inward curve that Indicated where her waist line was. Of courss, when the abdomen abdo-men was forbidden to appear something had to be done with the flesh that had become so conspicuous. Directions, therefore, were given that it was to be lifted, and the straight front, corset strapped carefully down by garters to keep the surplus flesh .elevated. Apparently It disappeared, but in reality it only changed location. Some of it was added to the waist, although al-though the adyocates of the orthodox, original straight front refuse to admit that. However, there were the dressmakers' dress-makers' measurements, which prove conclusively that the size Of the waist has Increased In the last four years from one to two inches, and In some cases more. Fortunately, the development develop-ment of the diaphragm, chest and shoulders lifts maintained the proportions- so that the larger waist has not been so conspicuous as it would have been under the other conditions. Besides, Be-sides, the style of dress has tended to conceal the fact that there Is any waist line of any size-Other size-Other Points of Difference. Other measurements significant of woman's physical metamorphosis are tho increase of from three to six Inches in tho line from throat to waist, the decrease of one nnd one-half to two Inches In the line from the nape of tho neck to the waist, and the Increased length of the under arm line. These measurements do not I ml lento the proportions pro-portions given to the figure by any particular par-ticular style of corset, but show the actual changes that have taken place In woman's form, due to exercise, mode of life and other conditions, as well as the permanent effect produced by the continuous wearing of corsets especially especial-ly designed to modify the figure. Almost as conspicuous as the unalterable unalter-able straight line for the front of the figure was tho decreed curve In the back. So pronounced did It become that, whereas one gusset' formerly had been enough In tho back of a corset, three had to be substituted. The corset manufacturers anil "dressmakers say that a woman's shape began to bo permanently per-manently changed when she had worn the new style corsols for six months. Three years of wearing them have, of course, modified It thoroughly. Having produced a new form, fashion builders are still unsatisfied. Must Reduce the "Waist. "Do not lift the r.bdomen," is the last word. Physicians are quoted as saying that this displacement of vital organs produces appendicitis and other ills. "Flatten and support it in its place." la the dlreoticn given by progressive pro-gressive authorities now. "Reduce the size of the waist," Is another dictum. You "must have a corset that "nips" just above the hips and that has tho curves that produce the new straight front with a narrow and tapering waist. For the woman whose figure is not moulded according to tho requirements of art or fashion a clever aid has been devised this season. It Is attached to 'a corset that Is cut high over the hips and has the proper "nip" to give the small waist effect and consists of large naps contornnng to tne oacK and hips. In these as much padding can be ln-rerted ln-rerted as Is necessary to make the slender figure Ideal, or It can be strapped strap-ped down tight to reduce the figure of the woman too generously endowed by nature. The - flaps are laced together In the back) and are held down on the sides by garters so that there Is no danger of a woman's shape thus obtained ob-tained shifting out of place. The new gowns this season, especially those of tho 1S30 period, are designed to show the figure, not to conceal 1L Therefore, it behooves every woman to be as shapely as she may by natural means, If possible, . If not, by such artifice arti-fice as Ingenuity suggests. But small of waist and well proportioned her figure fig-ure must be If she Is to look well in the new gowns with their deep, pleated girdles or well fitted corsages like tho gowns of other days before tho blouse began to cover a multltudo of Inpor-fectlons. Inpor-fectlons. The woman of fashion In 1904 has a straight front, but It is pliable and not as if maintained by a cast Iron rod. The exaggeration of the bulging dln-phragrn dln-phragrn and tho Grecian bond back have given way lo a trlmness of the entire figure and the waist line is well defined. |