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Show ml I, P Black jl Velvet A (T Gown with A-.. J .1 ' C.hemisette and ' .1 Sleeves of Ecru vi J Mignonette. By Mme.'.Frances The Famous Creator of Fashions WHEN a woman wants to look '''paint-able," '''paint-able," which is the artists' word for picturesque, she wears black velvet. No . texture holds such charm, of color in its weave as velvet. It drapes into exquisite folds, softens soft-ens every line of the body and enhances every contour of the face. A beautiful complexion finds its most effective foil in velvet. Black is the most popular choice of the' picturesque velvet gowns which are seen on 1hc most stunningly dressed women. Next in favor comes brown, with a running to seal and occasionally golden or tobacco brown. With a brown shade of velvet, Kolinsky trimmings are very much used. The golden brown tones of this fur merge beautifully into the shadows of the velvet. Taupe velvet is popular, because it is so Koft in shade and so lovely with moleskin. Ioleskin or beaver combines perfectly with shades of taupe. With dark blue and sapphire ting. Ermine is used with best effect on black velvet, though this color is beautifully combined com-bined with Kolinsky on account of the black markings which run through the brown hairs. To trim velvet with anything seems almost unnecessary, so perfect arc the folds of this fabric in themselves. However, on the lighter velvet gowns I make a combination of colors; for instance, the tunic of a wonderful frock of Alice blue velvet is faced with canary yellow charmeuse. Another gown of gray velvet carries car-ries a tint of rose in the facing of the wide velvet, the curly black pelts of Persian lamb contrast most perfectly. On a gown of gray velvet, which is exquisite for formal afternoon and evening wear, the priceless chinchilla or the more approachable squirrel find their best set-kimono set-kimono sleeves. A dress of henna velvet is given a touch of vivid blue. Usually the- I Black ( Velvet j Gown sj 1 .V I Jet-Spangled V" v.' Net Tunic- vibrant note is struck in the contrast. Again, the tones may be more sympathetic, as in the trimming of dork blue with gray or with old blue I have designed four costumes of black velvet, which I think will perfectly gown a woman for the four periods of the day, morning, morn-ing, afternoon, dinner and evening. - The first gown carries a simplicity of line which the informality of the early hours oE the day demands. This gown may be worn on the street under a fur coat. A blouse of velvet is cut away to display a guimpc of ecru mignonette. This little guimpe is tucked and finished with a round, fiat collar. The tiniest pearl buttons outline the front closing. Around the U-shaped opening of the blouse I have quilled picot ribbon about one inch wide. The sleeves of this gown are interesting. Like the blouse, they are cut away. Falling' back from the arms, they disclose undcrsleeves of ecru mignonette, quite in keeping with the childish guimpe. The velvet sleeves are outlined out-lined with black velvet buttons and are faced with ultramarine blue. This vivid blue is delightful in combination with black and white. Blue again appears in the facing of the sash of black charmeuse, which encircling the waist is tied in a butterfly butter-fly bow at the back. The skirt of this gown is scant and narrow, with just enough fulness to give an attractive break of line to the exquisite ex-quisite fabric. You will be interested in the crisp ruffles of mousselainc de soie on the luncheon gown. These ruffles are white. A small guimpe is finely pleated into the round neck. From this rises a "near" Elizabethan ruche of white mousseline. This decidedly new neck finish is held by a black moire ribbon faced with old blue. The bodice fits the figure with almost Xowspnper Featuro Service. 1018. V Black Velvet Gown with Button Trim-' )-' 4 Sja ming Down Right Side. "princess" frankness and fastens down the left side with a row of closely set black velvet buttons. This line of buttons continues down the side of the skirt, which carries a cascaded tunic oh one side. This tunic merges into the line of the skirt as it extends around the figure. Ruffles of white mousseline trim the unusual un-usual "sleeves, starting from a little puff at the elbow, which is strapped with a baud of black grosgrain showing the blue facing. This ribbon rib-bon tics each ruffle in turn. The sleeves of this gown arc perhaps its most interesting feature. For wear with this costume I have designed de-signed a hat in keeping. A broadly picturesque pictur-esque shape oC black velvet is faced with tiny ruffles of white mousseline picot-edged and overlapping each other a trifle. "Lc dernier eric" of smartness is uttered in this combination combina-tion of white mousseline and black velvet. In this dinner gown I have combined black velvet with thin black chiffon. A kimono blouse of thiunest chiffon upholds strands of black jet beads which fall in parallel rows from neck to girdle. These beads are repeated on the back, but are not attached to the blouse except at the neck and girdle. This trimming is very charming. The sleeves drape th6 rounded line of the shoulder flatly. Being cut away just below the elbow, they fall at the back of the arm and are outlined with jet and weighted with a heavy fringe of jet beads. The line of the skirt is draped a trifle bias because this line is usually more flattering to the figure and gives the beautiful velvet an opportunit3r to drape'itsclf perfectly. A broad girdle of jet sequins outlines the hips. One 'end falls over and hangs at the left side. "With this very lovely gown should be worn a broad, flat hat of black velvet. The brim is tilted at an angle to suit the wearer, usually being slightly elevated on the left side. A1 graceful sweep of black paradise curls under the brim. This. costume is in perfect taste in any assembly and, though designed especially tytr - 'f ,LU, Dinner Gown with Waist Covered in String3 1 of Black Jet. I The Fashion Forecast 1 Underskirts of jetted lace, real lace, or cm 1 broidcrcd net will be fea Lured under draped W skirls of velvet or churmcusc for even in y & wear. 'I'hcsc petticoats match (he shoulder jjj; drapery in color and texture; The effect is ji dclibhtfulhj 'feminine jnd charming. One-Fifty-Six Wet ! i ty-Sixi'i 5 New York. J j 1 for restaurant dinners, it insufficiently slrjk-pj-ing for the theatre and less formal evening J& wear. fto The evening gown is a triumph of piclur-ltf csqnc lines. On this dress I have combined??, black velvet with jetted net. The long skirtfl is draped on the bias in the effect to which IJ g am so partial. A jet tunic, rather short d;: reaching only to the side front, falls from a.jg. narrow girdle of heavy jet beads which also;jj hang at the sides. , The bodice of this gown consists of a deepjis girdle of velvet, which is carried softly and'j& plainly from the waist to the line of thejif square dccollctagc. This bodice fits the figure ; snugly. iAs it is drawn around the body the, velvet takes the line" in soft folds. iSf- Above this deep girdle are set kimono jjL sleeves of jetted net. These sleeves complete; Ik; the line of the dccolletage, which is square back, and front. The sleeves furnish a picturesque-j drapery. They are cut away at the front and, jjg, hansr in scroll-like ends. These ends are, ft weighted with fringe, which consists of round ftc jet balls suspended on smaller beads. j If this gown is built a trifle higher in the u neck in front and quite up to a rounded neck-i jra-j line at the back, it will make an exquisite dress jfett; for wear with one of the big black velvet pictr gn ure hats, so much in vogue at present. ; Ikf A ruffle of jetted lace falls beneath thejg edge of the skirt and runs up on the bias line jttt,c disappearing in the drapery. This jetted lacejJjBp is vcrv pretty falling over silken clad ankle jfer. jfe j |