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Show ( ' 1 Cushion Brims and Ostrich Plumage Make Millinery ! Soft and Pleasing In Line Wine and Plum Colored Col-ored Hats HaveGr eat Vogue This IstheMonth When Little Fur Chapeaux Make Their Bow j HFRE Is a sumptuousness about , ' the mid-wlntor millinery, which . ft In combination with tho lavish ' ' furs now "approved by fashion, : Elves to woman's costume a very rich imd luxurious effect, simple as are this season's styles In frocks and tailored tail-ored suits. A handsome plumed hat, splendid furs and dainty foot wear will make any woman look expensively expensive-ly dressed, however plain and simple the costume on her back, and It Is upon hats, furs and footgear that ; fashion places tho emphasis Just now, probably because frocks and tallleurs themselves afford her little scope for , her fancy. ; One notes a beautiful softness about the winter hats a pleasing grace of ; line and a complete absence of sharp points or angles. They are llko tne hate one sees In portraits, yet for all Jhelr plcturcsqucness and their artistic crace they impress one as tremendous, ly smart and sufficiently dashing to bo Individual. And any piece of millinery tlhese days that has not character .enough to be individual, is hopelessly mediocro In style. One might far bet-ter bet-ter wear an unbecoming hat than a hat without dash or smartness. : - rnii ..'iiiuiitr)- worn juou- On .The ITcad ! Quite as important as the stylo of a hat, these days, Is the way it Is sot on the head. "Wear the most expensive bit of millinery you can find, in the most becoming colors you know, and If that hnt has a headslzc Just a little too small so that the shape rests high on the head say an Inch above the cars oxpect to look at least fifty In It. Only women frankly on the other side of fifty wear hats poised high on the head now. A small hat, so worn, with waves of gray hair beneath it is fharmlng and dignified and complctc-)y complctc-)y correct on an elderly woman. The wmc hat, over the less elaborate colf-jturo colf-jturo of young girlhood, may be .'"ragged down to cover tho ears and i win often be dashing, piquant and , completely correct for youth. It is not the hal, one repeats; but the way the !'iat Is worn, that is Important. Every jone of the hats pictured today comes i idown at least to the cars at the sides, nd almost to tho eyebrows In front; ' lone or two models actually cover tho eyebrows. Yet head sizes of tho new-hats new-hats are not large, as they wore a few-seasons few-seasons ago, and crowns are not mam. moth and out of proportion to brims. This Is because hair Is now dressed sofjly and close to tho head and in a simple arrangement without falso appendages ap-pendages of any sort. Ono's hat crown need be no larger than the size of one's cranium requires the smaller the better from a fashionable standpoint. Small heads do not always al-ways contain the most brains but fashion likes them better. A Feather 'enr Ostrich Is far and away tho most popular hat trimming this season. Never was more of It used. Thore are wonderful plumes of curled ostrich; fat, fluffy ostrich tips in groups or curling over hatbrims, long strips of uncurled ostrich used in wreath effect, hedges of burnt ostrich, pompons of ostrich and ostrich "fancies" galore. FIvo minutes and five dollars spent in tho feather corner of any hat-trim-mlng department will furnish the wherewithal to make a plain1 Velvet-covered Velvet-covered hat perfectly stunning for this season's wnar nml mnnv o Ti.r. i.t of last year Is masquerading this winter win-ter as a new creation under a modish swathing or swirling of ostrich. Two of. the eccentric ways of using ostrich tips are illustrated in tho pictures of new millinery shown today. Small, black ostrich tips curl over and under the brim of a wide velvet sailor with a cushion or "collapsible" crown or, as some milliners call It: An ac-cordeon ac-cordeon crown. This hat Is all black save for a narrow band of gold and blue braid which Is drawn nround the baso of the rather tall crown. The velvet brim rolls up Just a wee bit at one side and droops at the other side and ono of the little tips starts under the brim and curls up with it a now and fetching feather arrangement, is U not? Another hat shows ostrich tips as slim and supple as the little black tips are rotund and plump. This Is the hat brim tilted sharply upward over tho left eye and feathers trailing downward 'at the opposite sldo. A cood many of the hats worn In tho I WWm This Blue Velvet HhL I .MT mMmWk -- IheBrnm of Uni Black Dress Kbtt restaurants at dinner hour havo these pom tumbles over the noso as It is abruptly turned up brims and thoro is supposed to do. Tho hat Is made of a certain dash in tho stylo that always- velvet In a rich plum shade and the accords well with feather trimming. sUk noss ornament is in tho same Cavaliers of tho middle ages wore lpjig beautiful color a vcrv fashionable plumes in their hats and pinned back s),a(e ti,is voar olo the softness of the front of the brim to glvo much tnc brm and lts cushion effect under- thel same effect that is fashionable nealh. Anything llko harshness of this winter. The llttlo hat pictured nnc in tt veivet hat ls taboo tnts is a daring affair of henna colored , velvet with buff velvet brim facing and. ostrich feathers of tho samo buff shade. Tho quill ends of the ostrich tips arc not discreetly hidden as they would have been in any hat that respected re-spected itself a few seasons ago but are sowed frankly against tho crown in plain sight, in this year's careless and downright fashion; one feather pointing from the. front of the hat, the other from tho back, and tho tips meeting and mingling to tumble over the edge of tho brim. Silk Floss As Soft As Feathers, Another tumble-down arrangement of trimming in this winter's fashionable fashion-able effect, is instanced in the Napoleonic Na-poleonic hat with its huge, silk floss pompom that dangles almost In front of tho eyes. Or you might call it a Paul Jones hat, for the shape seems nautical rather than military In suggestion sug-gestion with the turned up admiral's brim foro and aft. Worn with the peak slde-to-sldc however, the hat becomes be-comes Napoleonic and the big pom- season and all tho high-priced models have this soft, becoming effect. Worn with' the big velpur coat, trimmed with beaver, this plum colored hat- is vory fetching and has a youthful dash. Still another tumble-down effect Is shown today; but this timo it ls lace that does tho tumbling. The hat ls a picture shape one of the big, becoming becom-ing "portrait" hats earlier referred to. And to give a further touch of sump-luousness. sump-luousness. fur has been added to the lace; a tiny band of kolinsky heads the chantilly frill which drops over tho brim and two pompons of kolinsky tiro posed against the brim in front. The hat itsolf ls of black velvet and Is slightly wider at tho front of the brim than at the back. Tho lace U draped up toward the back which gives tho model a suggestion of tho poke shape. This hat Is worn with .i black chiffon velvet afternoon frock; the hugo muffler collar fastening at tho back Is of Australian opossum. Paradise Kcturns Everybody is asking for paradise plumes now, and these graceful feathers feath-ers seem to bo very scarce on the trimming counters though enough of them find their way to tho expensive jl 1 1 ' V Draped UpELKBack Lj ilH I uauj uispiayeu in tno "ready-trimmed" I salons. The gold natural paradise Is ( the favorite though much black para- dise is noted and somo of tho henna and rust colored hats with golden . paradise aro particularly gorgeous. The model pictured ls of sapphire blue ' civet with shaded natural paradise sweeping off toward the back and the I hat Is worn with a blue velvet gown having sleeves of gold lace. The tones of hat and frock harmonize attractively. attrac-tively. This hat shows a distinct ten-, ten-, ilency toward the poke shape, the brim slanting down over the face at the front and narrowing and curling up at the back; and tho handsome paradise para-dise feather Is Its only ornament. ' One small hat ls pictured for the sake of variety.. Not that small hats are not fashionable Indeed they are! But among tho dress models one Is more apt to run across big, picturesque shapes loaded with feathers. Tho toquo pictured Is not a dross hat, but Is suitable for afternoon wear with a smart frock and wrap If Its wearer expects to have tea at a fashionable restaurant; It would hardly be the hat for a formal reception or an afternoon wedding. It is introduced on today's page because it shows tho new velvet flowers as they are called. Strips of doubled velvet are shirred Into flat' u-abuchons and appllqued against the velvet hat and flowers and velvet aro ' In the same shade, In this case a rich, deep blue that brings out the blue ofl I hat has the smart tarn crown of this j year, and one of ihe gleaming sllver-leaf-ornamcnts that are so fashionable. ' than her own purse ought to afford. jH There are street petticoats and danc- lng. petticoats and, of course, tho hit- ter arc the most alluring for gift pur- poses. One lovely petticoat Is of Uesh ' pink taffeta with a flounce below the kneo all trimmed with llttlo ruffles made of Yalenclenncs lace. Another 1 dancing petticoat is of fine whlto I dotted net with threo rufTlcs of Valcn- ciennos, each lacp flounce finished with a narrow pleating of net. Tho upper tlounco is outlined with tiny pink silk There are all sorts of nightgowns in tho holiday collection, from simple little nainsook and batiste gowrns hand-scalloped hand-scalloped around neck opening and short sleeve, to claborato affairs of IH llcsh tinted chiffon inset with yards of costly lace. One of the prettiest night-gowns night-gowns to a conservative taste ls made of pure white crepe do chine with hemstitched square yoke and short sleeve hemstitched at the edge. The hemstitching runs up in a square motif on yoke and sleeve and in these framed squares are embroidered single ' rose sprays In pastel color, flower, leaf and stem delicately wrought on the whlto ground. Tho soft, lustrous Jersey silk under-wear under-wear la much fancied for Christmas giving, and these garments when of tho best quality are far more enduring t'l and practical than they look, for a 1 IH |
