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Show K I Irie Quaintly Old Fashioned Mantlet Is One of the Most Delightful of the Season's Fashion Developments and It 1 Prophesied It Will Be a Frequ HI Factor in the Style Designs for l Fall It May Be Brilliantly H I Hued or in Dark Colors, and M Hi I Be Fluffily Sheer or of Heavy H Material, Such as Faille, Satin, H I or Supple Velvet. II By Jean Seivwright. i DRAWINGS BY E. C. KELLY. I ' Cbpyrlcht: 1016: By Tl Chicago Trlbuno j end tho Now York Globe .THE charm of the picturesque always ap- H jg . I peals to the feminine heart, especially H f .when it is found in the domain of dress. H p Perhaps one of the most fascinating de- " ' Hj $j vdopments of the season is revealed in the H $ quasai mantlets that give a most unusual touch H i --- H !' s s H i if 11 Z I ill W i :; '' -' 9i5 Ifi llJfS II Mw t,& x Jw v ' W' m 'f- '"""'A' ' '- . ' lh i -:-- H 1 W ki Wv yMT '"w '" ' " i j' 7SLiy'r "-' S " 7- -- !: H ? I f 7 V-'---- V v B ;..:"' ''V't---- ''-"' ' -d.-V '"-'' '" ""' -V? '$j? V ' ii H I - I k ,(: I . V VW ' '" ?TTT.. '"' '' -r" V'. -.K-V.i'Jtftt ... J. Mauyc anJ rgy changeable taffeta, iM t 1 'yg; ' w yr- '-"- T '-sir - .",.w.v-:v-.-";',i :fy- 0. t H -: I " V.'4 I Vl ,'?& '" V '"' " 'i:t-"-. '" " ' . " 2. Old roe supple faille silk embroidery and j IH K'"v'" '" '.T' ' l ' 5i ' ' j ' ' "' double shade Matin facing- H; -'- '"v -' r ' ",'... '""' '' "' ' '' '' ' "' 'P '" 3. Hat of ailk and velvet; nattier blue. ! V 1 ?' 5 I J I "' '' ' '"" ' : : i-J t. . 4. Mantelet of smoke gray taffeta with lining H j to the simple costume of summer time. Many M arc the artistic creations evolved from shimmer- H I ing silks, rich velvets, and filmy chiffons. H & Three delightful modes arc depicted on this H I page. At the top is a fascinating little wrap of . H I mauve and gray changeable taffeta. Designed H I with a charming shawllike collar, this origina- H I tion is gayly ornamented with handsome silver H I embroidery, and from the tip of the pointed col- H 1 lar depends a beautiful silk tassel. A suggestion H I of a sleeve is revealed in the silk which is shirred H I at tnc top of the arms, with a flaring heading H 1 that tends to accentuate the width of the shoul- H I ' H I A lovely old rose supple faille is -chosen for H I . the mantelet at the left. The soft folds of the H I silk are wrapped in surplice style about 'the Hl I . figure and loosely folded back to form a graceful M 1 collar. This is adorned with a plaited ruching Hl I and about the waist a fold of the silk is. draped M 1 and finished with a cabochon at the left side. M 1 ' The widely scalloped peplum and prettily shaped H I sleeves are enriched with silk embroidery and H 1 ' faced with satin in a darker shade. H I Another delectable mantlet is pictured' at the. H 1 Pght, and its charming style will surely bep- L 1 proved by every woman who delights-in dainty attire. This creation is evolved from smoke gray taffeta and lined with flesh colored chif--foh. Fashioned with a deep circular yoke, a full cape is achieved, for the silk is closely gathered gath-ered and falls in many a ripple about the figure. From shoulder to elbow this is slashed apart so that the filmy sleeve of the waist is revealed, while a dainty bow of the silk holds the. loose ends together. The collar is exceedingly lovely and looks like a delicate flower with the gray silk sepals that are clustered about the pale pink chiffon. A dashing hat is pictured in the center of the group and offers a suggestion for. the early fall models that frequently appear while midsummer is still with us. Nattier blue velvet combined with silk of matching shade is favored for this creation, and rising from the narrow ribbon trimming is 'a feather cockade that emphasizes the military tendency in this mode. An admirable summer hat is pictured at the left. This pleasing shape is developed in a soft gray milan trimmed with a narrow band of old rose faille embroidered in darker shades of' the silk. The model at the right is different, for the transparent crown of crin is softly veiled in pink tulle and banded with a silver ribbon and pink rose, while the chapeau at the top of the page is of silver gray rqilan with a. quaint cockade in mauve colored ribbon placed at the left side of the upturned brim. Although the mantelet will doubtless be much in vogue throughout the summer, it is too charming charm-ing an adjunct to be quickly dropped from milady's mi-lady's 'wardrobe. In many of the advance fall modes one finds that cape effects are favored. Of course these are much longer than the summer wraps and require many yards of material, as they are cut on flaring lines and lavishly trimmed with fur. . Fur trimmings, however, arc not reserved for fall and winter use, for at this time such adorning adorn-ing is exceedingly popular on the wool jersey suit and tricot silk costume. White astrakhan and silver rabbit are fashionable furs for such purposes, while another pelt is d)red to imitate beaver, and as its price is only a fraction of the latter, it is widely used. Fur capes, too, are approved by creators and leaders of fashion. The newest way of mounting mount-ing pelts is to stretch them so that breadth rather than length is achieved. Long stoics -arc no longer esteemed and fox and fisher are spread out as widely as possible and developed into picturesque pic-turesque collars that are unusually attractive. ' Another novelty is found in the sailor collar of fur. . Such collars fall about twelve inches from the neck line in the manner of the popular, plaited plait-ed models shown on jersey suits or linen blouses. These are usually worn with lingerie dresses and are decidedly effective. With many formal out of doors functions now being held, one naturally finds much of interest in the summery frocks that are designed especially espe-cially for the garden party or affairs at country clobs. Exquisite voiles, chiffons, and organdie dresses reveal many interesting features. One lovery dress is originated in a pale lavender shadow check organdie. The bodice, following rather closely the lines of the figure, is unadorned un-adorned save for the. fichu that is lightly laid about the shoulders. This is elaborated with a narrow plaiting of the material and finished in ,V shaped style just above the waist line. The skirt is designed with a circular yoke which is outlined by a four inch -frill of the organdie or-gandie which decreases in width at the sides of the frock. Another frill, slightly deeper, is placed, about, a couple, of inches -lower and fol- lows the sweep of the frill just described, whik a third frill assumes the proportions of a flounce Gay cockades of green ribbon with flyinl streamers lend a bright dash of color to thii dainty summer frock. - ' i Another lovely frock of printed silk voile 'fl designed with a simply gathered skirt finishw i All with three narrow tucks above the hem. -fl though at first glance the foregoing descriptioi might seem sufficient, yet on closer inspection j charming idea is developed in this apparently simple skirt. Perhaps when its creator original ed it he had the daisy in mind, for from tii waist Kne radiate petal shaped panels that ai outlined with pale blue ribbon that matcb the dominating color of the floral motifs wit which the voile is bestrewn. The lower part the bodice is similarly decorated, while the ou line of the collar follows the graceful petal shaf of the flower. The dainty vestee of fine cresj colored batiste is trimmed with small blue Wl tons. m Hats in quaint poke shapes or with drooptw brims, gloriously trimmed wr& brilliant timj flowers, give the finishing touch to ttese raJ nating frocks for the-joyfirihmrrs-sOTiraM |
