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Show II What Men Will Wear. Footwear Cloth -Topped, Buttoned. Colors Subdued. London. Ideas. Pepper-and-salt mixtures have come back again with all their old snappi-' snappi-' ncss, vying with the revived home spuns in soft crepe effects and with I checks and stripes in light colors on t dark grounds. An innovation in town L. suits is in stuffs revealing golden threads in the weave. Gold, indeed, is a prevailing tone for spring wear, cross-woven with i colors that tone down, such as brown, ' blue, green. A sheen of gold ripples ! on the surface lighting and warming. Varying this gold tint and harmon izing with it are the yellow and orange ! i or buff that have become quite the i fad for neckwear, for shirts, collars and cuffs, both in plain solid coloring and in color on white. WHAT OF THE FASHIONABLE HAT? In London there is a marked fancy just now for the English top silk hat with curled brim and belled crown as opposed to the round French chimney chim-ney pot shape. Soft hats in shades of blue, green and brown give indications that they will predominate for the spring. The drooping brim stiff hat is one of the more extreme novelties, which like all novelties, takes quite well in some quarters. Instead of tiie alpine crease across the middle of the crown, it is proper now to run the crease round and round the low soft felt crown, in sort of convex crown fashion. Panamas seem to give promise of more popularity than ever, some appearing with this same con vex crown. The folded sash band is a smart substitute for the plain ribbon rib-bon band. FOP. EVENING BLACK WAISTCOATS WAIST-COATS AND BAT WINGS. One of the novelties of the year is the dress waistcoat in black instead of white, with long points and fancy buttons, but-tons, pearl and combinations of pearl, or platinum with small diamonds, or pearls in the center. A new white waistcoat is rimmed with black silk down the front opening, and along the bottom points and edges. It has the cut-out armholcs intended to make the cloth crumplclcss over the chest, sometimes called the athletic arm-holes. Another novelty is the piped bat-wing bat-wing tic for full dress and tuxedo, black with white edges and white with black edges. Fancy bat wings m general gen-eral will be in demand for this season. sea-son. TIES FOR DAYTIME, Broad shapes in tics arc the favorites, favor-ites, the full knot, wide apron, open end four-in-hand being preferred. There arc also the semi-imperial and lined' dc Joinville shapes in various modifications. There is a tendency toward to-ward soft woven silks of a texture that harmonizes with the soft hang of clothes, the soft drape of shirts and the soft hats which are so much in fashion for both town and country wear. The soft knitted scarf in one color follows this mode. Necessarily collars will continue to be cut away in front and open-spaced, leaving room for the generous knot and sizable siz-able scarf. The vogue for wearing white gloves instead of grey, with afternoon dress. has revived white Ascots knotted , rather flatter and larger than before. ' They arc fastened with black pearl pins. BOW CRAVATS. Bow tics ill be very popular, reviving re-viving the vogue of seven years ago. The bows will be broad at the ends, varying from two to three inches. Made of very soft material, llicy will spread out nicely and hold their shape. Knitted bow tics will not be worn. Plain black and white bow tics arc still the most stylish with informal and formal evening dress, respectively. The black bows with white edges and the white bows with black edges will be worn only by extreme dressers. COLORINGS. Beside the gold and buff that generally gen-erally prevail, cropping out in yellowish yellow-ish orange, reddish orange, Tuscan, lava, flame and the like, there is a considerable favor shown the various shades of green. On the whole, one may say that the tics of this season arc more quiet in tone than those of last. Double-breasted waistcoats to go with lounge suits, arc gaining favor. They have broad', low, lying lapels, and are accompanied by the soft, wide four-in-hand ties. "Half-moon" or crescent jacket pockets arc booked for another run, and tailors of high class will revive the soft roU to the top button, which is favored in London. Lon-don. In shirtings, pintuckings still lead, not only in white, but also in the un-pattcrned un-pattcrned colored chambrays for day wear. WHEN COLOR IS FORBIDDEN. The handkerchief for evening as well as for day wear is now woven with a broad hem. Colors are often used for embroidering corner initials, monograms and devices, on white. Except for sports, colored handkerchiefs handker-chiefs arc bad form. Of course they arc impossible with formal dress of any sort and with lounge suits too. An attractive suggestion from Paris is two sets of self-woven lines all around the edge, and between them a Havana brown stripe, ornamented with little brocaded leaves. CLOTH TOP SHOEo. When it comes to a matter of footwear, foot-wear, cloth top shoes are about as good style as can be adopted for dressier dres-sier occasions, while for all times there is a preference among smart dressers for buttoned types both in black and in tans, owing partly to the greater convenience and neatness of buttoned shoes over lace. STYLISH COLLARS. The stylish spring collar is the English Eng-lish cutaway. This collar will find great favor, and is especially adapted to the wide, knotted scarfs that arc now, and will be, generally worn. The low, deep, pointed collar will continue to be popular this spring and summer because of the comfort it provides. Madras stripes, dots, checks and shower effects will find favor, especially espe-cially in the English linen collars. SILK SHIRTS POPULAR. High-grade silk shirts will be very oopulxr liuj. spring and summer. There will also be a select demand for crepe dc chine shirts. Both will have the French cuff and be very gay in their color effects. Various shades of purple and green, in stripe effects on a white background, will be popular. The mushroom tuckcd shirt of silk or crepe will continue in good demand de-mand for stylish evening wear. Mushroom tucks in shirts of cheaper cheap-er grades will be popular for everyday every-day wear until the hot weather makes their wear impracticable. This shirt has to be made extremely ex-tremely thick because of the tucks; consequently it is very heavy. Cross stripes on plain color backgrounds back-grounds of pink, gray and brown will be in favor on this shirt, which will have stiff French cuffs. The regulation pleat shirt, which has not been popular during flic last two years, will be in greater demand, but the big, every-day spring and summer seller will be the negligee shirt, in gay color combinations and with French cuff. r THE UMBRELLA CANE. The latest in "sticks" is what to all appearances is a smart walking accessory, ac-cessory, yet after the two-in-onc principle prin-ciple holds a closely folded silk umbrella, um-brella, which answers the emergencies emergen-cies of rain and sun. f FABRIC GLOVES. The silk glove for men is making rapid strides in popularity. It would seem that the man of to-day is becoming be-coming more particular about the details de-tails of dress, not only from the viewpoint view-point of style, but also of comfort. As a summer glove the silk and chamois-lisle gloves arc both logical and economical, to say nothing of their ' I being highly sanitary. I The best manufacturers are giving I them a more rugged, more mannish I appearance. I SUGGESTION FROM THE LON- I DON SHOPS. : I An advanced model of evening waistcoat is being exploited in the I London shops, the opening is U- I shaped instead of V and quite nar- I row. So narrow in fact that only a I bit of the shirt shows, thus prevent- I ing the possible ugly bulge of the shirt in front. Long points in front )l and three buttons set closely together ''I complete this smart affair. y "Most of the .evening ties are of 'I butterfly shape and tied with very nar- i row waists. The smartest are in fine 1 pique and invariably tied at one end . I only, the other end being tucked un- dcr the collar or cut off altogether, " ) says an observer abroad. "It is, how- , J ever, rather more difficult to tie a bow I when made on the latter plan, but it ;J certainly is neater, as the loose end I is liable to work out, especially in the I tango times we have been having of I iatc.M I For day wear, black and white ef- ; I fects arc in demand as well as plain I black. Four-in-hands, open ends, As- I cot and fall-over prevail in the way ; Ji of tic shapes. Peaked collars arc af- f most general in London, the double ft shapes seldom being seen except with lounge clothes. Many men fancy '; striped collars of the same material 33 , the shirt with morning suits. In most iV cases the design is a neat one, a thin A hair-line of black or cojor on a white ground, but it is an idea that was 'j looked at askance a year or two ago. ) ij |