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Show I IiTiECOCKS, FRILLED DRARED - I Frocks Frilled And Draped. t?ussy Willow Taffeta Mandarin and Egyptian Crepes for Spring Ruffles Ruf-fles and Muslin Embroideries The Jacket Blouse, Before we have much to say about the new frocks of this 1914 spring and summer, we are obliged to enter jnto a '. lengthy discussion of the new silhou- ctte. Not so very long ago we were hearing about the natural figure line and the attempt that women were making to look as nearly straight up and down as possible, but along came a French designer of costumes artistic and invented a new hip drapery and the outline that had been so carefully care-fully nurtured, went galley west and ' has remained there ever since. THE FLUFFY-RUFFtES GIRL. Ruffles and flounces have come back again recalling the old-fashioned days of grandmother and before Who does not love the beruffled girl? Every ;t sort of frock is flounced and every sort of material is flounced, just as every frock and every material is draped. If the flounces arc not gathered gath-ered on, then they arc cut to flare, the wider ones at the top and those with fewer gathers and less material put fcelow to help out with the narrow r Qnkle line. f Ideal for these ruffled effects arc the (, tnateriala that are manufactured in fiouacincs, in border designs, some of the silks and more notably the machine ma-chine embroideries, which come in numerous widths. These embroideries are gifted with new delights in the way of cob-webbincss and hand-made appearance that would grace the frock of a queen. So pretty and modish arc they that they form the chief clement in many of the lingerie frocks for afternoon, dances and dinners, and arc combined with laces and chiffons whose shecrncss they rival. And, by the way, no longer arc these frocks called "lingerie," which has come to be a synonym of washableness; but rather arc they given the French term "nettoyable" or clcanablc. THE SWEET PEA SHADES. Of all the embroideries, the prettiest are those which follow the latest fad in coloring and come in the sweet pea shades, which just now are favored of Paris in silks and cottons and linens. A pale pink ground, for instance, will be embroidered in tiny wreaths of flowers in several other delicate shades; or the ground will be ecru, batiste or voile, and the flowers in a darker tone. THE WEAVE OF TAFFETA: THE LUSTRE OF CHARMEUSE. It is easy enough to say that this is a season of taffetas, but when we really see and touch the taffetas, the wonder of it grows. Pussywillow is the name given to the most delightful delight-ful sort, and if you have ever beheld the sheen and stroked the velvety softness soft-ness of a pussywillow bud you will have some idea of the winsomeness of this new material. Of course it is made to be draped as the majestically stiff taffeta of two years ago could never be; in its chiffon softness and delicate glow it is replacing the long-favored long-favored charmeusc. You may use these taffetas in your day frock, or in the light-colored affair that you dance in: and you may have them plain or printed; moire or changeable, or both at once; in modern art designs or prim little stripes. THE ORIENTAL CREPES. You may have your frock as crepy as you choose now, for the latest sort is Egyptian crepe, very crinkly indeed, and usually printed with dainty flowers flow-ers in soft oriental colorings A little less crinkly but quite as smart are the Mandarin crepes, which also are printed and which drape delightfully. There is even a satin that is crepy, but one is never surprised now to be shown any sort of weave in any sort of material, for the looms have become be-come wonder-workers, even to the making, of crinkly satin nocturne. r. AS TO SHEERNESS. Shcerness is the chicf clement of the corsage, whether it is part of a simple afternoon frock or an elaborate dinner dress or dance costume. The completeness of the garment, the effect ef-fect of oneness is maintained by the use of a. bit of the skirt material in the bodice, with all the rest of sheer net. lace that is the shadow of a shadow, or indestructible voile just as chiffony as chiffon but more durable. So cobwebby are parts of our frocks of late that it is necessary in the establishments es-tablishments where they are made and being fitted to have special hangers and to eliminate altogether the use of hooks and eyes, using instead snap-fasteners, snap-fasteners, which are not likely to get tangled in the open meshes, and which, by the way, are more expeditious expedi-tious of fastening and unfastening in this age of hurry. THE JACKET BLOUSE AND THE RIGHT COLLAR. In bodice styles quite the newest thing is the simulated jacket which appears on one-piece dresses, not a real bolero but a make-believe one, that is caught to the silk or net of the lining and falls at the waist line over the draped girdle. Sometimes at the back it runs down under the belt into a peplum, giving all the more the look of a separate jacket. This sort of frock will be ideal later in the season, when the sun makes the real outer jacket or coat an incumbrance, and when one is yet obliged by convention conven-tion to conform to the standards of trottcur wear. You must make your collar the feature fea-ture of your frock if you would conform con-form in "every detail the Japanese effect ef-fect that is gathered just a bit along the back and even into the revers, to give the right thickness of appearance, and to stand away quite decidedly at the back of the neck: the Medici type that is high and rolling, made of firm moteria! that stands alone -or wired with invisible wires. Again, you may discard either of these collar styles and s till be fashionable, for if a woman's wom-an's chief beauty lies in the curve of her neck it is a shame to cover it up even with the prcst of collars. Use instead the low collar, but have it cut in some odd shape and made of some fancy fabric. TRAINS ON DANCING FROCKS. The train is the usual adjunct of the dancing frock now, for as out of place as it may Mem in the evolutions and convolution of the modern dance, it is really out of place before the dancer begins to step, very deftly caught up to the belt line or below by means of carefully concealed spap-fastencrs, and you'd never recognize it as a train, for it seems to be only part of the draperies. BOOTS FOR THE LADY OF QUALITY. By her boots shall she be judged and how easy it is to judge by boots in this day when skirts tend to be shorter. If the foot is large, let it be so, but make it stylish with thc right footwear. Above are two right types for the spring and summer frocks. Slender lines and the fashionable buttoned but-toned upper are ultra stylish. In the black buttoned boot the patent and cloth combination with circular vamp is well liked; the so-called Cuban-iLouis Cuban-iLouis heel and the recede toe mpst patrician. pa-trician. The white buttoned buck boot will serve through the spring and summer, for all one's light day ill thiiujiiibi ipmm t frocks, plain and dressy, and is a valuable valu-able addition to the wardrobe. 1. A POCKET DRAPERY OVER THE HIPS FOR THE SLENDER SLEN-DER WOMAN. The woman who goes in for slender slen-der effects in her garments will like the cut of this po.cket drapery, which aided by the line of the center and the shortness of the waist, gives wil-lowness wil-lowness to the figure. The chiffon blouse is brightened with a collar and revers of old silver lace, lighting the color scheme of old blue. The material of the skirt is satin nocturne. OF PUSSY WILLOW TAFFETA. This is verily a season of taffeta, and here is a frock that exemplifies the beauty of the soft lustre of pussywillow pussy-willow taffeta, a taffeta weave with the brilliance of charmeusc. The frills set about the hips of a very simple skirt give the fashionably required re-quired extension of the silhouette. The blouse, like most.,of the season, is kimono, made dressy in the frills of black and white and the velvet girdle of old blue Lacking buttons, the dress is fitted with snap fasteners, as hooks would be fatal to such sheer fabrics. 3. THE NEW MUSLIN EMBROIDERIES. EMBROI-DERIES. With the present vogue of the flounced frock, muslin embroideries have come to their own for the' lingerie frock of the spring or rather they say cleanablc now, for these ma- chine embroideries, some of thejm, are jH altogether too exquisite for the tub. iH Here a gauze finc cream batiste in jH solid and open design' is cleverly ap- IH pliqued to shadow lace in flounces and iH bodice. An old blue satin girdle matches the hat and the little cor- jH sage roses are duplicated in the para- iH sol bouquet. JH SCALLOPED FLOUNCES A NEW ' wU FANCY. The building up of skirts by means of super-posed tunics or flounces will .'H be a fad of the spring season. There 'H will be no regularity in the scalloped jH outline, nor in the depth of the iH flounces. The Paquin model here shown is in navy blue mandarin crepe jH printed in Modern Art designs and colorings, The bodice has one of the new "cowboy" collars which is exact- 'M ly like the folded handkerchief of the iH plains cattleman. iiH 'fl IN COLORED EFFECT ' Many of the muslin embroideries arc in colored effect on cream, white jH or colored grounds and here is a lin-gerie lin-gerie frock showing how a border dc-sign dc-sign in color may be combined with net and lace. Tan and blue on an ecru ground, with blue and tan changeable taffeta in girdle and the 'M frill that weights down the edge oj 'M the tunic makes a happy effect. |