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Show ; SUITS dfid COAT 5 aPtffo SEAgOMZ I ': Suits and Coats of the r; Season. The Short Jacket Pcplums Galore f Bulge and Abbreviation in Outer , Coats The New Mohair Suitings. :- 'A suit that has not a short jacket is no suit at all this season! A suit that is not built with a pcplum skirt is likewise beyond the pale of the i- fashionable. And the jacket is the cause of the skin or the skirt the cause of the jacket, which ever way you want to state it. At any rate our hips have grown larger, or seem to h2vc done so, with a fluffy, peplumcd and flounced bouffancy that no jacket which respects its own dignity would attempt to cover; so jackets remain .' . short. The degree of shortness depends on yourself, dear Madame, whichever dc- grcc .of abbreviation is calculated to ' 'vn pfre the best effect to your figure. Some jackets remind you of the little j coats that the Eton boys wear chopped off abruptly at a neat waist-" waist-" line, others arc as short as a scanty little bolero, the waistline left to the ( ' , imagination. Many of the very smart ones, remembering their old-time hip length and more, as per the dictation of the tailor's association, have start-; start-; ' ' ; ed down with good intentions, but a V few inches below the belt have found ': the descent too greatly impeded by "bouffant" draocrics, and there have ' stopped, establishing the fashionab'le ' line, perhaps slanting off along the , vJ- . back m cutaway fashion, for .cutaway .. they are indeed. M sS ORIENTALLY LOOSE OP LINE AND FIT. The suit that is loose and fa1ly-off looking- is the most proper as to I style; for there is an Oriental suggestion sugges-tion in the cut and the fit of all our outer garments today, including even the simple walking suit. It is good that it is so, for it seems to typify thc greater freedom that has come into the activities of woman's world the Oriental having wandcr-cd far from its original source! The suit jacket and the outer coat seem to be cut as little as possible, looseness and easy fit being considered consid-ered rather than the old-tailored chop-pincss. chop-pincss. The kimono shoulder and the raglan sleeve, monstrous arm's-cyes that run clear to the waist line, baggy bodies all arc ultra modish. With the freedom of cut there is, too, a freedom from trimming, we are happy to say. which, no matter how dressy the suit may be, saves it from the reproach of fussincss The "dressiness" "dres-siness" then lies in the design rather than in the furbelows. Collars and cuffs are emphasized with a bit of machine embroidery which this season sea-son seems lovelier than ever before; with lace, moire or faille, or one of the printed cottons in modern art style. Since this is a year of tassel trimming we are not surprised to find suits as well as on frocks. Buttons are even replaced by artistically concealed con-cealed snap fasteners on suits as well as on dresses. THE MATERIAL TO CHOOSE. Run over on your fingers the favorites fav-orites of the year in the way of suitings suit-ings gabardines, crepes, poplin weaves, silks, wools and cottons. But before choosing you will perhaps want to get acquainted with some of them, so much have the characteristics even of the old-familiars changed. Somehow Some-how a delightful new dignity has come into the weaves of the moment, a classic grace that is essential to the beautiful lines of our new draperies that combines softness with heaviness, firmness with plasticity, and which leads, us to assert that the materials this season, in all their range, arc more lovely than they have ever been. As glossy as silk, as drapable as chiffon, and with all the patrician appearance ap-pearance of their old selves, come, for instance, the new mohairs, especially those which combine mohair-and-wool in one weave. These stuffs confirm the assertion that everything is drapable, drap-able, and, for the little shopping-tea suit, for the plain church suit, for the ultra dressy one, an English mohair-and-wool or a poplin weave Sicilicnnc is quite ideal. MOHAIR OR COTTON SUITING? Beside these wonderfully attractive mohair suitings which have assumed all sorts of delightful virtues, the cottons cot-tons arc fully as surprising. Yes, cotton cot-ton suitings and coatings that rival silk and wool in their beauty and sometimes in their cost. We can no longer deceive father by saying that the new suit or coat is to be merely a simple cotton affair if he has learned anything about the beauties of these new stuffs but, unless he is an adept in clothes, you can "fool" him by saying that it is silk or wool and he'll never know the difference, even when he gets the bill! But your friends and enemies feminine will know you are ultra modish and that King Cotton has come to his own. The sport coat, especially for later spring and summer, in all sorts of bright colors, for.remembcr that this is a season of vivid colorings, will be of one of these cotton stuffs, say a Roman stripe, or golfine which is like corduroy. ARE WE COMING BACK TO CAPES. Because the outer coat is taking on a delightful looseness, because its body and sleeves have become more and more shapeless, because the fullness full-ness of draperies on frocks beneath is pushing the lower part of the coat out into flare and flounces yes, gathered and pleated flounces even in wool coating because filmy bodices on day and evening frocks must not be crushed nor pulled about by a fitted garment, it would seem that wc arc arriving at a season of capes, that will throw on and throw off in a trice. Imported Paris wraps this spring have only slits for sleeves and arc cut all out of one big piece, draped to fall into lines that would delight the marble gods of Greece. There is usually us-ually a big straight cut collar on these wraps you can't call them coats kimono-like or even gathered ruffle wise. There is another interesting fact in regard to them as to all outer wraps; in Madame Mode's demand for absence of ornamentation, cords, tassels tas-sels and even the ultra favorite buttons but-tons are left off. Since a woman can't stand holding her cape on with one hand as they say the French do, or as the ladies do who pose in fashion photographs, a ,fastcnin is concealed somewhere down'thccarclcssly closing clos-ing front and it is always one of those humbly convenient snap-fasteners, small but mighty in the purpose it serves, while the outside is as serenely serene-ly fashionable as if it could fly away any minute it wanted to. FOOTWEAR FIRST. Do you know that some folks say they look first at a woman's footwear as the index to her whole costume, as well as her taste in dress. For the woman who cares, here arc shown two types of the fashionable boots of this season, appropriate for wear with the suit or coat, dressy or informal. They adhere to the buttoned style now exclusively followed by good dressers. The dressy boot is built on the prevailing slender lines, long vamp and spool heel, while the other is the typical stylish walking boot, abit rounder and broader, in the desired button effect. 1. WHEN SELECTING THE OUTER COAT. Almost every woman has at least two or three one-piece frocks for the spring or summer, and consequently must have an outer coat to ward off the evening breezes or the fogs that prevail in some climates even in the summer. This model is ideal, smart enough in cut and color for many occasions, and light enough for many climes a minaret yellow, downy-surfaced wool, with raglan sleeves and flaring three-quarter length. 2 SHORT JACKETS AND PEPLUM SKIRTS. A short jacket and a plain straight skirt that has a pcplum attached to it is the story of the fashionable suit this season. In the soft, silky English Eng-lish mohair-and-wool fabric that is ultra modish for suits and adapted to the new draperies, is this smart little affair for frotteuf uses. The real of Roman silk, held with snap fasteners, not buttons, the pomponried hat and the shtnr leather-buttoned boots make the requisite dressy touches. 3. THE FREEDOM ONE WANTS IN WALKING OR GOLF. The coat for the sportswoman mast leave room for plenty of body move- ment and at the same time have the dash that is essential in such garments when the wearer regards her appearance appear-ance in the least. A "comfy" cut, loose of body and sleeves, a yoke and patch pockets after the required mode, a collar that buttons up high, with a Panama hat and practical button boots, and the girl of action is ready for anything, from a tramp on the drive to a trip to Bermuda. 4. FLOUNCES ONCE MORE EVEN IN SUITS. The good old-fashioned flounces-that flounces-that used to flourish in the grand motherly days have come bacT: id Wt style in frocks and even in suits a n sort of extension of the ever-so-fash- H ionable pcplum in the case of the lit- ' Bp tie suit shown. The short Eton ' W jacket with its pleated pcplum adds Bj to the quaintness of the effect, which , H on the whole would be becoming to slender woman. ? mt FOR ALL SORTS OF DRESS? , K t occasions. ; m. Here is one of those little three- R piece suits, the sort that the French Ei woman takes to naturally, that will K Serve just about every one of your m, dressy occasions, except for party 'E wear. It is'made up of a skirt draped il on simple yet classic lines, a blouse of; ft ; the material and sheer net and the usual short jacket. The crinkly Egyp- ft tian crepe is a delightfully fashionable stuff and most durable, while a flaring; II collar and a bit of a caff to the dress M are most effective in that sheer batiste H machine embroidery that has all tha, 1 appearance of hand work, JH |