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Show I jj jil 111 ' 1 cz sAfco ' jj I : K fCH of the art -of' I (i a dressing lies in the 1 j JlylL garments. As.Al- I I .Iff iiSB, V. Phonse Daudet so I fldS nl aptly puts It: "Ele- I 'H ffiS! sauce Ik inborn: It j j Bi yt) comes not from the I ii tRvA drapery of a skirt ; ! ' Jwrtt or tlle cut of a I ' coat, but from the 1 I liirr fJ nil Personality Within. I ;! A 3Qp We either grace or I JJ render our gar- I ments grotesque, J j making them, ex- I qulslte or vulgar in efTcct by the nian-Ii nian-Ii ji ner in which we carry them." II i To dress so that each detail Is but a II harmonious unit which contributes to II the perfection of the whole and does II i uot arrest the attention per sc is an art II most difficult to acquire. One has such ! a profusion of coquettish novelties to j choose from, especially this approach-: approach-: -i in? season, that one's taste and judg- , incut is apt to be temporarily thrown out of balance The secret lies In cull-ill cull-ill ins some one ingenious Idea to give to i a dress a personal charm and charac- ; terlstic cachet, just as a florist selects j -j as a final piece dc resistance to his bou. A quct some rare exotic bloom which will I give to it distinction without disturb- ' ini the color symmetry of his concep- II I ''u11' , Wc welcome the recrudescence of T white, which comes as a refreshing oasis I in a glaring desert of bizarre colors , ja popularized hytbe futurists. This cool . co i or In soft materials, su?h as crepe l de (. hh.e or Milk voiles, gives an inli- I fl ne tUl,nu iyory complexions. Many llfl of tM'-se white gowns are given an ad- i if ditlunal chic by touches of black and. K worn in conjunction with the high, f tight coift'urcs now in vogue, they have quite a Pierrot suggestion, which Is j (i nrther accentuated by the impudent f $ ii tie hai? we . are wearing. Also, in i I evening toilettes of black and white, r' II I the effect Is heightened by wearing ' ! beauty spots and powdered hair, which 1 I I Is the latest sensation in London. Here again we are returning to the j ji modes of the eighteenth century, but, . I unlike the gratidc dame of that period. t ;! tvho took the greater part of an, hour i to determine upon what part of her I 1 countenance the patch would make the. i best Impression, we are apt to place -J l! It rather carelessly, disregarding' the iff fact that It was "primarily intended to accentuate a pretty feature or indicate a message of Intrigue to some ardent pallaiit. - Wigs colored lo suit the costumes, cos-tumes, however, have not met with general favor, ' iii s"plte of the tremendous tremen-dous efforts 'made to popularize them, such as at the recent reception given in Pajs by the. Duchess D'Uzes..where. a friend writes, me, the sine qua non accompanying the Invitations was that all the guests bidden :were to wear 1 colored transformations. Old rose and sliver Js a. greatly favored favor-ed combination at. present in' the French capital, and MHq. Ex lane, now appearing appear-ing in "Of Filsm d'Antcrique," wears a fetching gown of rose tulle. The skirt is accordion "pleated and over It falls a double tunic of silver lace, outlined with a strand of brilliants. t The ensemble en-semble is dazzling, for the rose tulle also gleams warmly through "a tissue of silver ou the corsage,- and the brilliants bril-liants outline the low-cut decollete. .Another Tarfs gown, which I am showing in the sketch "Fig. 1, is of straw colored .lace-over melon colored ehanneuse. A length of metal chiffon in that peculiar shade of mauve which has a glint of purple, is. arranged at the back of the corsage and brought round to the front, wherelt artistically drapes the skirt -and is then drawn down tightly almost, to t lie hem.. then .swjtchcd to the l?ack again, where It terminates in n 'fish-tall tvain. Ropes of pearls of a deep tinted banana shade trim the skirl, and pearls jus.t one strand are useO'oh the waist in places of sleeVes. -A Now peparturo In' Skirts, It Is a new figure that will be palpable in the latest tailored ykirts. The silhouette silhou-ette will be much "broader, although at the hem an extreme narrowness will still be dc rigcur. ; J?ut unlike the tight skirts pf the past tseason that bound the feet in durance 'vile the newest mcKlels, though circumscribe.d at the ankles, have a fuller aspect, owing to the fact that they are' made with gracefully grace-fully manipulated shirtings or pleats. Plents and gathers are the chief features fea-tures of the ultra-fashionable tailored skirt The pleats are arranged onto a near, snug-riltXng hip yoke, which is fairly wide in the 'center front and gradually narrows . to.ward the back. With thft?o pleated skirts is. shovn an underskirt of, 'a dfffefeht materhtl'.-Thls V I I Tli ' v V " little skirt is quite straight and narrow nar-row and in many models only comes to the tops of the shoes. A smart skirt, which has Premet for Us sponsor, is in nut brown taffeta. It is laid in wide box pleats arranged onto a narrow hip yoke. The pleats are skillfully manipulated so that they flare out widely below the knee. Beneath the taffeta is seen a little tight nudersklrt in bright colored cretonne. This skirt is quite short, disclosing the shoe entirely. en-tirely. Premet is also making suits on this order in serge, with underskirts In plaid or Roman striped silks in the deeper shades, the bright colored fabric fab-ric being also Introduced on the collar and quffs of tho little coat. Qheruit shows a chic little semi-tallored semi-tallored model in a soft taffeta which Is shirred onto a deep hip yoke. The straight, tight underskirt which comes a few Inches below the full upper skirt Js slashed all the way round, the slashes being made about six Inches apart and about four inches high, the edge being 'bordered with a tiny box pleat Ingenuity is certainly required to' give the cachet to the flare that this new type of trotteur skirt demands. The upper skirt must have a decidedly outward sweep, which at - the. same time must not detract in any way from the effect of tailored simplicity. Another smart style of skirt Is shown In Fig. 2. This is one of my newest designs and depicts the draped pannier effect at the back of the skirt and also the ponched back to the corsage. This model Is made in black taffeta, with a sailor collar and little pleated chemisette chemi-sette In fine white organdie. Fancy passementerie motifs in oriental c,olors and studded' with beads In blue, red . and white decorate the front of the corsage and also Impart a chic finish to the swathed, draped girdle whicH Confines Con-fines the box pleated tunic. I have also selected another smart afternoon dress to illustrate my article this week. Fig. 3 shows an attractive arrangement of the crinoline tunic, both Godet frills being wired to give the flare. The medium employed In this Instance is one of the new delicnte flowered silks In a parchment tinted shade upon which Is patterned a blurred blur-red tulip design in a vivid tone of Tango red and soft Argentine yellow. The ethereal waist is of the two shades, a pale yellow clouding the deep Tango coloring. The salient feature of the gown is the cut Jet bead trimming which embellishes the corsage. The beads trim the novel frill of chiffon at the top of the sleeve and also the wrists. Used as a belt to confine the frilled tunic, which from the front gradually rises several inches above the normal waistline, they add a smart ! elegance to tho ensemble. Artistic Wraps and Jackets. It is difficult to recall n period wheri the possibilities for the creation of artistic ar-tistic wraps was greater. For this thanks are due to the exquisite flower-edtbroches, flower-edtbroches, printed rnoussellnes, passementeries passe-menteries and embroideries which seemed now to have reached the acme of perfection. Until the psychological moment arrives for us to don our summer sum-mer attire the woman of Incessant social proclivities is offered an cmbarras dc chotx In the matter of smart cloaks and jackets. The little old fashioned jacket like our grandmothers wore is", the wrap of the moment and, if one dare prophesy, of the next few moments. mo-ments. As the season strengthens there Is an obvious predilection towards taffeta ou the soft, supple order, lined, mark you, wUh the delightful Inconsistency of the decade, oftentimes with chiffon, either painted -6r elaborately tucked and pleated, or again, there will be a broche exterior of a dark, durable color, boasting of a lining of the most delicately pnmted gauze, proving once again the rule that when the Unprcvw is pleasing it is invariably successful. Although painted chiffon Is not particularly par-ticularly new for linings, the textures , and desigus are presented to us in a new guise,- so we nre able to delude ourselves with tbe Idea that we have quite the dernier cJiic if we have a flowered flow-ered gauze for a doublure. Flowered ninons and mousselines have never had a real run for gowns. They are apt to , be n little "difficile," not having enough of the subtle qualities we sum up in the one word "wearable." But as a. lining only revealed now and again, they have a picturesque value not to be overlooked or Ignored, and especially especial-ly when chosen (as of course they are) with a contrasting effect to the color and texture of the fabric which they line. A model which I have just de--signcd and which will appeal to the ' susceptibilities of the artistic woman isin white taffeta. The Jacket comes just below the hips and Is trimmed with two wide Godet flounces of the same silk. The underfrill, to give It the necessary flare, Is wired. The lining, lin-ing, a delicately painted chiffon, is edged with a silver fringe to give to the fragile doublure some weight, a handsome silver tassel hangs pendant from the back. The neck is finished with a little collar of soft lace, which, except for the wired edge. Is left to fall limply. This is edged with a narrow nar-row silver braid. Another exquisite model is fashioned in taupe colored nlrion broche, the latter lat-ter a design of grapes carried out in tempered futurist's colorings, while through the transparent material one catches a glint of tender green satin doublure, which in turn is veiled with ninon in tone. Many of the models both in evening and afternoon wraps verge on the eccentric. ec-centric. A Jacobean purple brocade after clipping the shoulders suddenly spreads outward, while the arms emerge from horizontal slits. Another in gold and green is a little loose jacket jack-et which comes only to the waist; then from the waist hangs a wide frill of gold lace edged with tiny gilt tassels-Worthy tassels-Worthy of note and admirably suited for a slim woman and who is not slim today? Is a manteau I have designed In green brocade. This has long rcvers and a quaint square collar at the center cen-ter back covered with violet chiffon. Revers and collar are edged with a violet chenille trimming. The novelty In the cut is shown in the shlrrings on the shoulders, which conveys a cape effect A wondrously soft Godet pleat emerges mysteriously in the back ap- pareutly without any effort on the part of the conturiere. But of course this Is merely a seeming. As a matter of 'fact, there Is a great deal of skill required re-quired in the handling of these man-teaux. man-teaux. A close Inspection reveals how much of the grace of the model rests on the bias hang. A Word About Hats. In the nature of things it is only to be expected that when the hair is dressed high the hat should ascend in altitude, and as It happens now that the tresses are massed on tbe summit ' of the head instead of being flattened, some of the new hats are extremely tall, and many models are tilted at a ridiculous angle. Quite refreshingly Individual In style Is the hat shown In the sketch (Fig. 4). It depends for its cachet on its exquisite curves. The side brim Is rolled on beautiful Hne3 and a long, black, uncurled fantaslc. fastened with a handsome cut jet ornament, orna-ment, is the sole trimming. The hat is1 made of black imported French hair i tffll.'ei braid about an-inch and a -half widfc J This Is sewn onto a tulle wired shape. Tho curved lines give the top of the hat a boat-like semblance. This is a favorite of mine among my -new mod' Another veil arrangement which vs particularly adapted for motoring is the long chiffon scarf arranged in tiny folds between the crown and brim of a close-fitting Henri II. shape. The draping is fastened tightly at the back of the chapcau. by means of a-;beaded motif of" pasEementerie'in Oriental col-orings. col-orings. From the rear of the hat th If - i wj 7f v length of chiffon is allowed -to fall In a graceful sweep down to the waist-line waist-line in the back when not in use. Its particular advantage lies in the fact that it can be turned forward over the hat and face when desired, much after the fashion of a mourning veil. (Soe Hatpins, which became useless when we wore our chapcaux pulled dowu over our cars, are once more a neccs-sity neccs-sity now that hats arc again perched on a high coiffure. To revert to head coverings, the urn-brellas urn-brellas we will use this spring for April showers are no longer tbe sombre af- jH fairs of former years, but are shown In many bright shades of waterproof silks to harmonize with one's costume. They arc small in size and coquettish in hapc, and one of the most attractive models that caught my fancy was de-vclopcd de-vclopcd in a beautiful shade of leaf-brown, leaf-brown, with a border hemstitched onto the main body of brown and amber-toned amber-toned plaid. The long, slim handle was delicately mounted with pale am-ber, am-ber, but the particular novelty of the umbrella lay in tlio little round balls of amber afllxed to. the tip of each rib, a delightful and. wholly new method of ornamentation. - JH I ; is"' Wml ort4 ?&7 fa thus frff f?ct- : |