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Show Hn & I "?WHAT THE BEST-DRESSED WOMEN ArVE GOING TO WlXrVj I I Harm fashto'nSI iiift llPllir """swrpHl1 i I - s8fe --W T . W S fcft" ancT Imi Gowns dk& " IJP? iLl f5s4 1, 'm- i H BY MRS. A. T. ASHMORE. ALL summer fashions in 'dress seem fascinatingly attractive in. color and material, nnd no mat- tcr what style is chosen there is I an nir of daintiness and attract-1 iveness that appeals, irresistibly. Un- M questionably bright sunshine nnd the M summer atmosphere lend enchantment, M but after the winter skies and the dark M colorings of the winter clothes the relief M ) of the transparent fabrics nnd their M bright colorings is a cry great, and as the H season advances and the thinner, more 1 diaphanous looking frocks mnkc their ap- Hl peaiance surely no woman can be blamed M for overrunning htr dress allowance All M hinds of summer materials this season j M are good. The colors are unusually at-f M tractive, nnd there arc many different H Fhades to choose from, and while all vyiush H materials, embroidered linens nnd mus- M lins arc in great demand chiffon, crepe M ' dc Chine nnd, in fact, crepe of' all kinds fl nrc included in the list of the season's nov- M fen J hi m l - I inn H '. Wbltu and Blacl. Costume. H i " H titles Satin is not so smart or, rather, H not so popul ir as it was, and - every M effort is being made to relegate it to the Hj ' background and to give the other mnte- H rial? n chance. Whether this scheme will H succeed or not remains to be seen. In H the meantime the -women- who nave H ' bought satin gowns need not feel discour- j nged with life, while the women who nrc M now selecting materials can select some- H thing plsc H Embroidered Linen Frocks. Ilhe embroidered lingerie and linen govrns this summer are for soinQ unknown un-known reason more etfecthe than ever, nnd this statement applies equall t0 the ) less expensive ns woll as to the very elaborate. elab-orate. The English eyelet embroidery and the cut work open designs are in great H ', demand, but there are also most effective Hj and beautifully embroidered designs in Hl j the so-called solid embroideries. AH H grades of material nrc used, from the H heavy linen to the finest of batiste and fl handkerchief linen, nnd nil kinds of laces Hl are combined with thu embrojdery, H Guipure, filet, Tnleneienncs, euch and all j are made up into the trimming of these H j gowns, Avhile at the s.ime timo there nr.' Hl I many of the smartest of the linen gowns H '' that have no lace on them at nil. H As has been so often stated this season, H Uic lining of n different color is extremely I ,fubbionable, and this shows thu pattern tk mwMmmMi a Embroidered Gray Crepe Gown MJ: ' ' " v S te l'hut.i('iirisliulHll.b Rciitllnscr w3Sv ' '"'" - K-xiliwUc Ooiorlpht. 1011. New York IKrnU Cunimnv miOfh f S 7 ,-' 3 .) : WBmmr ' ' ' ".. irt f embroidery, especially of the open work lescription, in the best manner possible, One wny in which it is done is bj lining the embioiderj with black chiffon. This is lighter than the elvet, which, how- -cvei, is greatly in far, as is alto black ' illll ' Embroidered Lloca Cotrn. or colored siitin. A charming little gown, extremely simple in design, but -with the best of lines, furnishes a good illustration illustra-tion of this fushion. There nre two bunds of embroidery on the skirt and these are lined with the black chiffon. Belts Most Important. A lot of attention i paid to the belt and sasli or girdle w orn w ith lineu gowns. This same gown 1ms n most attrnctive s.ish with long ends that Is made of deep rose satin, the ends of the sash embroid ered in deeper tones of the name color and the embroidery on the sash itself of the finest workmanship. There is no other trimming on the gown, bnt this touch of color'ls exceptionally attractive, nnd if the black chiffon does notharmon-io notharmon-io well then a satin the color of the sash is substituted. Velvet sashes nre also used and the most expensive and effective nrc of brocaded ribbons. These! last in black with the design in old pastel .Embroidered Silk Crepe Gown Maivjn ltctlfcn I'lioto CopiriRlit, 11)11, by Ueutlior tCxrlualvo Copy right, 1911, New York ikrald Compnny shades outlined with gold thicad arc tix- tremely bmnrt nnd eri fashionable. There is quite a discussion as to Ccrlte Cloth Coar wlib toibroldercd VclTet TrlintnlDC whether the white or the colored linens nie the more desirable, nnd It is doubtful doubt-ful whether the question will eer be decided, de-cided, so the prudent woman Include both., in .Jier outfit. There nre so many good colors to bo found in linen this year and. so mnny riiftcrcnt grades and qualities that it is not dilDcult to select what is becoming and useful, but the white linen gowns are always In fashion uud hmc a curtain individuality that makes them deservedly popular. The lingerie gowns are evidently to tic mom popular than ever this summer. The gre.it danger is of their becoiumg toe populnr, for the.v are made up of so man different qualities and often of sued co.use material and such cheap lace jii embroidery, which, however, have a cer tain style, thnt the woman who wants It be considered distinctive in taste eithei buys the most expensive, thereby spend ing a gient many dollars, or selects an i )fl 111 m 'a i pi' 3S3L " " BlUU UuITOiU tioun. f 9 othermiaterial. Just because lnce and mi broidery nie uscm! hi tho manufuctuic ol u gown it does not follow that it is a good 5Ss6ifc4l?3p' ' -" W W Lingerie Gown with Fancy Sash ' . wi? ' nr Photo Copyright, 1911. by Reutlloscr "4' JJK"ul?"?,vifAV T& Jte VV!" Bxcluslve Copyright, 1011, New York Herald Company ' , DSsfea W; Rose Pink Crepe dc Chtnc Gown -u NS. j I'butu Copvnuht, 1011, by llenlliag!r - l.xi!inii' Cup right. l'Jll Niw lork Herald Company WmX' V WMwM msw' x jSp i IS ErnbroideTcd Iririea Gowq filataiQ. IrJV Photo Copyright, 1911, byRontllnge'r Exclusive Copyright, 1911, -New York Hejald Company - . ".rtf;,ri.',iwb investment, but when the materials nre at the best and the shape and sty lc follow suitthe lingerie gown is one thnt the heart of a Wvoman rejoices in. There are two things tp be romembered about the lingerie lin-gerie gown, that its fashion does not change so markedly from year to year nnd that it will clean or launder iudelinitelv. This 3 ear the lingerie gowns are simple In design, the skirts are medium width, with bauds of embroidery or lace, made to w iar either with or without -a licliii, aud nl-wnys nl-wnys with the handdome girdle or sush al-iwidj. al-iwidj. described. Crepe de Chine Popular. A most clrinniiig material is coming - into favor ngiin tin (.ilk crop nnd crPpe r ile Chine. Jti tin lhrhtcr weight it is ospe- I fiullj well nil ipted for summer gowns and can be draped into the soft folds nnd lines that are so essential to the present stylo of dress. It is a fabric thnt might be said to be suitable for nny sort of trimming nnd on which embroidery or lnce shows to great ndvnntnge. It also is .so beautiful in itaelf thnt it looks well -without trimming, trim-ming, its color and texture being quito sullicient in most ins-tnuces. The gowns that show" fulness n round the wnist -ro easily carried oirt or treated in crOpe do. Chine, nnd one charming model in n pale ro-e pink has quite a lot of fulness bu)on the high lelt'. This gmvn is triniineil with n.moat fascinntiug fichu" of the finest net and .nee. finished in front with a sufr, knot. The fichu falls over the wide, high belt of deep roselpink sntlu, on which nre ihiuesrone buttons. It is a gowu Chat cm be worn in the afternoon or evening, lu. if worn in the daytime should have t. transparent yoke of the finest net obtain- ' ible. , There are few gowns more dnlnty or j smnrter than those of embroidered crfcpi de Chine and the crOpc de Chine gowni trimmed with the embroidered uet of fini ! quality or lace the same color as the gown j A model that hns been deservedly populai is of the palest gray crepe dc Chine, with ' the tunic effect. Absolutely simple m design, de-sign, it hns a distinction and originnlit that make it becoming to almost everj woman, nnd while the onginnl model a,' f carried out would be extremely expensive it may be copied in inexpensive lace batiste ba-tiste or the less expensive quality of crep?. Variety in Fashions. The great variety that is displayed in the fashions this season is really astonishing. astonish-ing. Given precisely the same colors and materials, the dressmakers arc constantly evolving new styles that nre absolutely unlike nnvthiug that has gone before In this very treatment of crepe de Chine then is another model unlike in every detail the one just described, but which has an equally charming individuality of its own. It is trimmed with a wide band of net, richly embroidered in the finest of gray silk embroidery. Thi band goes diagonally across the skirt, and the upper pnrt of the waist aud the lower part of the sleeves nre niado of the embroidery. Long sash end j of vIvet or ata of i contrasting color f give a certain note of distinction and originality if it is not desirable to keep to tie ope color. This model can he copied j in a dnrk color to good advantage, nnd has j j been made up in blnck with filet lace, ( white over black chiffon, to bo extremely effective and becoming. This combination of black and white and white nnd black Ii f one of the features of this year's fashions, I and now the crepe dc Chiuo combined with i , white filet proves an cspeciajly deairabh fi plan to carry out the stile. j For summer evening gowns crOpe de ( Chine combined with voile, chiffon or the ( finest nnd sheerest of lnce net makes up r( most nttrnctivcly. nnd a very charming J simple evening gown of these materials j, can be made for surprisingly small cost. The upper pnrt of the waist should be of ,t ifi ' i L r yi Clack and Satin Govtd. ' V ' Jl( the chiffon or net. n(1 the lower skirt, ii Jf. trimmed with a band of passementerie oi r of Jetted 'or embroidered trimming, orf &j even-bead fringe, is becoming and cxj J tremely smart. - i |