| OCR Text |
Show H8 TheSalt Lake Tribune TRAVEL Sunday, Bird Watching Begins With Visit to Belize lared hawk interrupted its mid- day huntto watchus pass from its perch in a large tree Once at Lamanai, we were able to add severalother species to our trip list, including brown jays and a short-tailed hawk. Our tour of the site included a visit to the Mask Temple, thought to be the largest Pre-Classic Maya Temple; the Jaguar Temple; and the remains of two Spanish missions. Cattle egrets, purple gallinules, green kingfishers and trogons augmented ourlist on the return. @ Continued from H-1 osprey, common black-hawks, white-winged doves, goldenfronted woodpeckers, tropical mockingbirds, royal terns and great kiskadees, Corozalis only 9 miles from the Rio Hondo and the Mexico border. The flight paralleled the barrier reef as we flew north to San Pedro on Ambergris Caye and caught a connecting flight. From San Pedro we flew northwest over lush mangroves and white-sand beaches along the coast, and emerald hardwoodforests inland Townis about 27 miles south of Corozal on the Northern Highway. Our birding objectives here included a boat trip up the New River to the Mayan ruins of Lamanai, and the Crooked Tree We had hoped to see a Morelet’s erocodile, but settled for a large river turtle. Next up was the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 1983 and run by the Belize Audubon Society. The sanctuary is south of Orange Walk Town, 25 miles on the Northern Highway. Thewaterlevel of the Northern Lagoon waslow for the rainy season, but to our surprise, large numbers of olivaceous cormorants, wood storks, and great endangeredjabirustork, the largest flying bird in the New World with a wingspan of 10-12 feet. Theboat trip to Lamanai began with a visit to Jungle River Tours, owned and operated by the Novelo brothers Antonio, Herminio, and Roberto. The Novelo brothers are ecotourism pioneersin Belize, providing river trips to the Lamanairuins on New River Lagoon. Lamanai was one of the largest Mayan ceremonial centers cal birds to your species list. The cost was about $30, which included lunch. We happenedto be going upriver with a group of undergraduate anthropology students from Waco, Texas. Antonio took the students in a larger boat, while Roberto took the three of us in a smaller aiuminum boat. Luckily, Roberto happened to be the birder of the brothers. Variety of Birds: We snaked upriver for over two hours, observing more than 30 species of birds. Pairs of snail kites and ringed kingfishers greeted us around every bend. Turkey and biack vultures soared overhead in the morning thermals. Great egrets, great blue herons, green- backed herons, cormorants, and anhingas lined the river bank. Northern jacanas sallied across vegetated shallows, while limpkins and yellow-crowned night herons peered from the trees as we passed. Mangrove swallows were abundantalong the river. As we enteredthe northern end of New River Lagoon, a hiack-col- canopy. Severallarge temples,ineluding Temples Two and Four, can be climbed with relative ease. Once on top, a whole new world unfolds before the eyes. The afternoon of our arrival, we walked into the Grand Plaza where Temples One and Two are located, and observed two king vultures soaring overhead in the afternoon thermals. Their black and white plumage contrasted with the crysial blue sky. and green-backed herons patient- monkeys, heard howler monkeys, and further out hundreds, perhaps thousands of great egrets, great blue herons, wood storks, and roseate spoonbills. And in the middle ofall this feathered whiteness were three large jabiru storks. According to Audubon wardens, two pair are knownto nest within the sanctuary. After Crooked Tree, we went to the Community Baboon Sanctuary at Bermudian Landing.Easily in Belize dating to 3,500 B.C. visitors to get above the forest A hike along the shoreline allowed us to view hundreds of blackand turkey vultures gorging on dead fish, northern jacanas ly feeding along the waters edge, The boat trip up the NewRiver to Lamanaiis a birder’s haven; an absolute wonder for addingtropi- The advantage to birding at a placelike Tikalis the reconstructed temples and pyramids allow Hawking Insects: Climbing Temple Twote get a view of the surrounding forest, a pair of plumbouskites flew in and out of the plaza, hawking insects in midair. First the Montezuma oropendolas started a ruckus, then the parrots followed. Red-lored, whitecrowned, white-fronted, clivethroated, and mealy parrots deafened us as they cameinto the roost behind Temple Two. The following day we toured the ruins. We observed squirrel egrets were present, Wildlife Sanctuary, home of the reached by bus from BelizeCity, the small village and surrounding rain forest along the Belize River is the homeof black howier monkeys. The animals are one of only six species of howler monkeys in the world and the largest monkey in the Americas. The Belize Audubon. Society runsthe sanctuary, with the cooperation of local landowners who follow special management plans designed to preserve the forest, monkeys and other wildlife. Visi- tors to the sanctuary are provided with room and board by partici- pating villagers, allowing the local community to benefit directly from the increased tourism brought aboutbythe. Tikal, in Guatemala, is simply astounding. especially for bird lovers. Over 350 species of birds have been seen here. Tikal was the greatest capital of the ancient Mayan civilization, with a peak population of over 50,000 around A.D. 400. No other Maya city can comparetoits ar- chitectural grandeur, which provides an outstanding bird watching experience not soon °259.... caught a glimpse of an orangebreasted falcon over Teraple Four, and an American swallowtailed kite over the Grand Plaza. Thehighlight was the discovery of bat falcons nesting on the backside of Temple Four. Three young oneshad recently fledged, and were testing their new-found freedom by flying into the tops of nearbytrees, landing awkwardly, then gliding off to the next abort- ed landing. That evening, we viewed the Guatemalan sunset. A pair of keel-billed toucans delighted from a nearby ceiba tree, as the bat falcons at Temples Three and Four hawked prey in the fading light. Over 290 species of birds have been recorded in the lush jungle of the Cockscomb Basin, includ- ing scarlet macaws. Hitching down the Southern Highway, we added a laughing faicon to our list, a few more roadside hawks and a gray hawk. The hike in from Maya Center took us within view of a colony of nesting oropendolas, added another short-tailed hawk to our list, and within the sanctuary we intently observed a female green kingfisher hunting along Stann Creek. Ourfinal destination in Belize wasthe coastal village of Placencia. After a hard lesson learned on the Hummingbird Highway, we decided to catch the next Maya Airways flight south rather than fight a crowded bus and bumpy ride on the Southern Highway. Floating above theisland as we passed were brown boobies and frigatebirds. So many, that it looked like a swarm of mosquitoes in the distance. The caye is relatively small and overgrown with mangroves,ideal nesting and roosting habitat for the boobies and frigatebirds, At Kitty’s Place in Placencia, we added pale-vented and whitecrowned pigeons, and acorn woodpeckers. Placencia marked the end of our month-long trek and bird watching adventure along La Ruta Maya. It was not a difficult trip, but one in which a fair amount of research and planning is required. Peterson’s Field Guide to Mexican Birds is superb, but it assumes familiarity with the three North American guides (East, West, and Texas). I supplemented the guide with a Checklist of the Cruises ¢ Vacations ¢ Group Tours « Airline Tickets « American Express FINANCIAL SERVICES Try Us On The World Wide Webat http:/Awww.if.scientech.com/morris Only the Go ANYWHERE BIG RED BOAT ON Royal CARIBBEAN, But WRONG. DISNEY Vacation at no extra cost! (Fz PRINCESS CRUISES evenOnan roTeeea ze 6 meals daily while at sea Valid for sailings thru 12/15/95. Valid on sailings in Cat. 5 and Not applicable to stateroom suites. New bookings only Po chargesand ground transportationnot inciuded. Restric black out dates apply. Subject to availability Not com other offers. Ships registry: Bahamas and Liberia eerie fF ifiu Wade Eakle lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. oe pert Reo pean even averorenieier ui taht eae en WePp ih egal Princess 7-Day Southern Caribbean Crown Princess 7-Day Western Caribbean BA aei Ryeae Roval#Caribbean You'veGot Some Royal Caribbean Coming Ail tares are cruise only per person, double occupancy, for select 1995sailings. Third and fourth passenger rate is cruise only. $48 fare valid onS-night and $99 valid on 7-night cruises. Add-ons available from select gateways. Port charges(trom $69 $185) and daparture tax (from $6.50 - $44.70) are additional. Cenain restrictions apply Registry: Noweylan, Liberian and Bahamian eree ye Ss Star Princess 7-Day Eastern Caribbean Selected Oct. Nov. Dec. Sailings “Best Available” fares apply to standard outsice and inside staterooms only; balconystateroomsare $895; suites & mini-suites are 40%off nan-air brochure rate, Fares are Cruise only, par person, based on double occupancy and are subject to avelability Certain category restrictions apply. Offers are not combinable with any other discounts, promotions or shipboard credits Residents of Utah and Idahe only Air add-ons apply. Port and government fees are additional. Ships registry: Bahamas. Dena eret I avi ens Ri Leak moles Na Free Air From The West Coast, To Hawaii! ee Hs E Receive 1 FREE round-trip airline ticket to Honolulu from the Los Angeles, San Francisco, San Diezo, Portland, or Seattle for each room booked. Maximum ofone credit per room. Combinable with Classic's Free Car Special, offering savings ef up to $500! > Buy a minimumof7 nighis hotel using any combination of the participating properties, * Buy Change and Cancellation Waiver. * Bookings musi be paid for within 7 days. * Valid for new bookings effective 8/1 - 1/24/96. Valid for travel 9/04 - 12/15/95 & 1/08 - 1/31/86 round trip Coach airfare, a rental car and PREMIGA CAUISE UES AMERICA’S BL FAMILY CRUISE AND VACATION’ crowded buses. For those whose’ passionistropicalbirds,it is a pilgrimage with untold rewards. Plus Free Car 7 night packageincludes a 4-night cruise from Port Canaveral to the Bahamas. 3 nights at the Walt Disney World Resort, 3 day admission to the Walt Disney World Theme Parks, 2 TEMKRD Birds of Belize by Wood, Leberman, and Weyer, and The Birdsof Tikal by Beavers. For the adventurous at heart; La Ruta Maya is worth the discomfort of mosquitoes, rain and We Do All The Work, You Have All The Fun! CCT Em)oeehoaA gives you a Wade L. Bakle Birding at Tikal’s temples and pyramids allowsvisitors to get above the forest canopy. MORRIS | Teeets DeThree NightsHotel, Transfers,* Disney FlexPags, 1-Day Universal, Secor Continental Breakfast Daily 10, 1995 P forgotten ee ree eee) FTGSS0 London DD), Round-Trip Air Gnly SLC to London Valid Through Oct 37, 1995 Subject to Space Availability, Does Not Include Taxes |
