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Show 'pjMr 1 ' ' ' : ' Zr A&Wm And the odd ' jUAW . " WVMJ r ' J If ' ' La vV A ) (ri - . - i J - -4 . - y ' -w : Y . i . ' - " A ' r r If 'i : ' r - ' , ; . ; : ' U ( . - - : , I - . , J, J ..viiiWT.y.Wy,tWlJI!.' ' "' ""' L . f" ' . ' K ' a'""' "- "A : - v k -j A "Bird Cage" Dress of Black Satin, v v r ' N" f : , r I the "Cage" Portion of Chiffoii and . ' jY, - , - Vp - Bars of Black Saun "Lucile" jfflbdel. A' l . - Mo ' : -- ; ; "A Lady Duff-Gordon JWvK "'? ' " V y ' - ' ffTll W0NDER if Dame Fashion knew K VSV .VU " ' a. v;I.-.t. jJ I'ij where she would eventually arrive 3V1 r- ' ! " ' ' . (-' v,:;y''' f 'jS' j wlien Bhe starte3 to launch the ff flffc , j v . . ',; : v 1 v. 4uaok minaret skirts two seasons ago? IV ZCg& p: i.r .y ' i .".r-- v These extraordinary dresses, adapted In ! 3. ' i . v '. V't'?L:'C!,i':'i Eastern styles, In ballet and fancy costumes, ;rjj .;; .--.v.. ; ' , " 1 have gradually wound their way Into our W) J J ' ' . - A , v ' everjday drPSbes until they have now be- 'i nliriHI'lf T 7 hi I ' 'K . u come nothing more nor less than the old- l I " ' yl t ' T ' " f fashioned "bird cage" skirts of the last j OP J .VvV, l " ; ' ., f L,, century. I Oy : j t r j . Tl In factl some of tne dresses 1 nave In my II '' - ' ' i i a 1 ' j present collection have literally underneath II 111 . ' . . I j '-'J: ;r-4 i i :!iv'J:i.. ' , to keep this "stick out" effect nothing . 8 jl . ' ' i ' ' V v4il'Ui '.f i " 3 more than the rel old-fashioned whalebone II j ' , I ' f , ' . 4 bird cage. Of course, at present these are lUJlii.lw jf 1S. ' ' , -s1 ' 1 somewhat modiHed, but I can really see In . j ' ' A "Bird Cage" Dress of Black Satin, the "Cage" Portion of Chiffon and Bars of Black Satin "Lucile" model. 1- ' i 1 A "Bird Cage' , r the "Cage" Pi . ; , ' ' Bars of Black . I i - " ' ' rl ( i ' 1 l' ' ' A r 1 ; ' ' . J - - i -1 ' ii TN f. '.'".:.u.v. . :'.:-' A Summery . , -Winter i TJnderdress, : 1 l i 4 Model, ?i sV- f ' ' . , 1 to Be Vorn ,3 Y : Undsr f 1 I - - , -i the k I ' , , i Heavy Fur ' :'vtiv -r- ' 1 1 I Coats. r a -'. i n , i .V i , I 11 T ! I , , . ". ' . ' . '. - J .. '. ' .. . -i . . .. . .-. - ,,,',, -l.;u,im iiilr-nu '. li" ."V'-"'- i , J b 0 i By Lady Duff-Gordon fnTHl W0NDER lf Dame Fashion knew p j p 4 where she would eventually arrive j s' when she started to launch the jj-t-ftTi minaret skirts two seasons ago? These extraordinary dresses, adapted In Eastern styles, In ballet and fancy costumes, have gradually wound their way Into our everyday dresses until they have now become be-come nothing more nor less than the old-fashioned old-fashioned "bird cage" skirts of the last century. In fact, some of the dresses 1 have In my present collection have literally underneath to keep this "stick out" effect lothlng more than the rel old-fashioned whalebone bird cage. Of course, at present these are somewhat modified, but I can really see" In the near future a repetition of the old cartoons car-toons of ladies In enormous skirts climbing on the buses or barricading the way on the graud staircase of the Opera, Another queer effect of these present bird cage dresses is that the majority of the skirts for the present are transparent, or semi-transparent, with decorations on them id the way of bands of material or wreaths or garlands of flowers and ribbon, while through the- transparent material you see the tight silhouette of the figure on the inside, in-side, which, for the present at least, remains closely swathed with satin and close in -at the feet, except in a few instances when they are for dancing, and then little pantalets panta-lets are used. These pantalets are perfectly straight and not gathered in at the ankles, as the Oriental Orien-tal ones used to be. Here is a photograph of one of these bird cage dresses. The tight silhouette skirt is of black satin, closely swatning the figure, the outside of the bird cuge being of tete de negre chiffon, while t the "bars" are composedvof bands of hlack satin, with little buttons down the front to the feet. The bodice is of the same material over a transparent black lace undergarment. The sloeves are three-quarter, shapeless and square, which seems to be the favorite shape for sleeves just now. I have made some that are full length in the same tube shape, but these, althougn very decorative, are very impractical for dinner or luncheon wear. To return to the "bird cages." I should Cor.vrJsh.:, ""' iLi-.- IJfe MEW MdreSesE And the Odd "Bird Cage" Bars and Trimmings Described By Lady Duff-Gordon LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, Lon-don, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, fi t"",j presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed '" i wo"T - y Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into W . is close touch with that centre of fashion. - . have explained that although they are made to stick out very much at the sides and slightly at the bacK, up to the present they are kept straight down in front, and In some cases are worn with the little pointed bodice of the period from which they are adapted. I will give you some photographs later on of some even m'ore exaggerated than the. accompanying ac-companying photographs, but so unusual are they that I feel I ought to break them to you gently. Look at the same lady In her fur coat. This coat is made of Chinese sable, with a broad band of skunk, and, with the exception of the cuffs, is adapted from the Chinese mandarin coat. Note the little squares in odd places such as the little centre front under the sleeves and the centre back, where the grain of the fur Is reversed to, suggest the design where embroidery Is usually to be found on the original coats. This coat is extremely cozy and easily slipped on and off. The little hat has one of my favorite all-around veils, that are so becoming when worn either over or pushed back from the face. I wonder how much longer this dancing craze is going to keep us busy. I have spent two complete seasons doing tango frocks. Now It is fox trot frocks, and for this I give you a practical and dainty little short evening even-ing dress of green and gray short messaline. The underskirt is opeD to allow for the long steps and crossed over so that when stand- 1---- r-Itr.in Rights Reserves. A "Lucile" Fox Trot Dress, with Modified "Bird Cage" Effect. ing upright it falls back into place, while giving perfect freedom when the feet are apart. The overdress Is envelope shape, with a long point in the front, and the two 1 sides, extending in I'ery long ends that are crossed at the back, twisted around the front and again to the back, where It Is tied in a knot and finished with two silver tassels. Silver lace makes a little cape-shape bodice, and a tiny little bunch of flowers in pastel coloring completes this little gown. For an underdress for these enormous coats, sometimes Chinese, sometimes Russian, Rus-sian, that one sees being worn now for tea gowns, I give you a little lace "slip," which Is made over flesh color of a very broad point lae, bordered with a narrow filet lace. It is la the form of a short, rathep close three-quarter three-quarter tunic, the same decoration being used for the lower part of the dress, but of course closqr. The little bodice is just a simple cross-over, and fastened at the back' ilke the kerchief of the eighteenth century. New "Lucile" Fur Coat of Chinese Sable Cut Mandarin Style. ' '-'-3 t J 5 f " New I , "Lucile" ) r Fur Coat "i ' 1 i " of -i " Chinese Sable , , Cut Mandarin . - , Style, t ' : V ' ' ' J .. ' , y " ' ; 1 ". ' t,"' t ' ' V-' .' - - - ' V ' . I i X , I - v"- . ' ;V ' ".,- T are made i '! sides and 5 esent they :r . , . nd In some ' . . ' ited bodice ' , re adapted. ; later on of : , ' - ' an the. ac- ' ' i, inusual are - ' ' lem to you fur coat. ble, with a ' 3 exception .-''.. . le Chinese - ares in odd r 1 ront under . where the - . uggest the ally to be ' . . lis coat is j ed on and j-' ly favorite ming when ' i from the i. - , 2' is dancing i have spent y igo frocks. -. this I give ; short even- ' v messaline. s, ! r the long hen stand- ' J |