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Show Ill's i zzz-! zzz-! I i; FURS MORE ELABORATE THAN f OR YEARS J , BY EDITH RAYMOND. 1 I UK V NEW YOKK. Nov. C Furh aro more elaborate than for many seasons. The Wf t j finest skins arc mixed with chifl'ous and j i : i J satins or with other pelts. It must; be ! E Jbi4'1 admitted that, there was. never boforo t,1) 1 ,) so large a uumber of altogether charm- i M1 in" 1JU1 wraps and throws. Mufl's. and HftiHi1 nci:lc Hhonluev pieces are all out t'j. in the uiot novel and unusual shapes. :'Hi ,J'UC oddest thing that has been seen i i .'; was a muff of flog shape, made of the 'Jff-M silkiest-pointed .Sitka fox. and when ,fj,i under the arm with the little head iu i a beud of the elbow it looks exactly 'it , '1 "ill like a little Pomeranian out for an air- t " ing. Another odd muff of rug kind is j :i -ii star-shaped when open and flat, but i , ' -jl closed has a delight fulh irregular out line of tails and paws. Hudson soal and skuuk make up a handsome loug shawl and muff sett. The furs alternate alter-nate in wide stripes, and the lining is gold-colored, satin-covered with shirred black chiffon. .Some of the wide fur scarfs, or "loug shawls." have openings open-ings at the sides, into which the hands may be thrust for comfort, lany of the neck-pieces are provided with slashes or straps, through which one end threads in fastening. Tn these scarl'8 the ends may be worn over the shoulder or straight at the front and there are two or three tabs. lany short scarfs of this kind are shown in silky furs. Everything in furs is soft aud light of weight. Some of tho muffs are wide enough to cover 1 lie entire front of a gown and are given almost a circular shape by slight fulling at tho top. which makes them tho more soft and Huffy. For riding, such .muffs answer not only their legitimate purpose pur-pose of keeping the hands warm, but serve also as a rug over the knees. H Chiffon and velvet together make millinery trimmings for some of tho handsomest muffs and throws. A huge pointed Sitka fox, seen tho other day, had ends of shirred brown chiffon over while, and fine plaitings of brown velvet vel-vet ribbou on either side of the chiffon. chif-fon. Fisher is a greal deal used among the fine pieces. The very dark fisher is one of the handsomest furs found in this country. A set of it, noticed this week, has a muff of barrel shapo, trimmed with heads, paws and a big black satin bow. The neck-piece is an odd-shaped affair that covers the shoulders and hangs iu tabs at the front, A gieat, deal of attention is paid lo linings, handsome brocades, as well as gold tissue, chiffon and soft satins are used. French fashions are giving up with reluctance the scanty silhouetto which derived its inspiration from the direc-toirc direc-toirc costume. The direct oiro gown as a type is an outworn style, but its variations arc far from being relegated to the background. This is true, at least, with French women, and with Americans who follow the French fashions fash-ions slavishly. Somo of the tailor-mades tailor-mades just over from Paris look more than ever like tubes, the skirts falling absolutely straight, and the half-fitting long coats over them making little' break iu the liuc between shoulders and hips. B , . A coat gown made by a leading Paris house illustrates this style. It is of the new wool material that copie4 ribbed Hvetcen in a dcepj almost ul tra marine blue and Inn mixture. The skirt, part of the costume, which isa mere effect joining to tho coat part, is absolutely without fulness, and the coat, coming just below the knees, is scarcely hall' fitting, sliding over the waist line without a suggestion of curve. There is not. an inch more of width in 1 his coat than actual movements move-ments of the figure demand. The coat fastens with three large buttons at the far right side without a lapel. The bottom of the skirt part, tho bottom of the coat anil, the neck aro bauded with raccoon, and biaswise across the front, there is a similar band of the fur extending from the left, shoulder to the lower right side of the front of the coat part. A big cossack turban with wide brim of the raccoon and a bristling black aigrette goes with tho costume, and also a long wide flat muff of alternating bands of the fur and shirred black' velvet. The skirt with straight plaits that hangs straight but at the same time gives some flow at the feet in walking and the waist of normal waist line, but more close lit than last year, aro the American 'h interpretation of the situation. Iter coats remain long as a nilo. although thercis a tendency to shorten ihem to just below the knees rather than to let Ihem reach several inches below the knees,, as they have been doing for several months. A great many coats built on princess tunic lines are going to bo worn under automobile automo-bile wraps, this winter. Their style suits the house for visiting, the mal-ineo mal-ineo or the shop. The 'automobile has had a large influence on the wardrobe, but in no more pronounced way than iu the blending of street and house styles for costumes to be worn under warm wraps. ; With all the elaborations rhich aye hpieul of thir luxuriant ueiiod in dress, there was never a day when the simple little afternoon gown was in higher favor than now. Por il, there is a host of materials of real beauty at small prices. The wools, fine anil coarse, coino in dozens of variations and the silk and wools and tho silk aud cottons which lend themselves to liousewear throughout the season arc of countless number and slvlc. Colors are more than every many and rich- The muddy tones of the last sen-sou sen-sou have cleared, and although there are still many tones mellowed by the intermixture of gray and browii the general trend is brig'hler than for sev-eral sev-eral months. No girl or woman c a n complain that the colors of tho season are not becoming to her. for there are few ever heard of that are not to be had. In anything like elaborate toilets, there is a serious tendency toward softening soft-ening color effects with gauzy draperies of veilings. But one can 'obtain effects ef-fects not, far below this rather extravagant extrava-gant style in mellow combinations erf two-tone weaves. One is constant.lv reminded re-minded of opalesque and iridescent shimmcrings in many of the silks and I heir mixtures, and not always in the highest-priced ones. There are pinks with gray lights floating over them, blues with subtle shmnuorings, yellows ; j-idi that one studies in order o j? whether to name thcni velloff or pj and a thousand variations o. my jfl and dyer. ''j 1)'' The suppleness of all "'"'"i.S $Ull ilself to I he huggmgiii ollre feet which is a shihholclli.of f-g styles. The cuirass gown is uiiiong smart models, .'"tuoiw' y 3.t, fitted in at the waist line. irr of (-ason it dropped over it v"" & tir0 ejear definilioiL ', "ayu |