Show Daugbters of Eve I THE WINTER STYLES Adopted Cuts of Skirt Sleeve and Bodice Princess Kedlngoto and Polonaise Be vived Now Cuts and Drapcrig f Jackets and Blouses The general impression of the winter styles is full skirt very large sleeves much bodice trimming and a ripple around the hips but there are a hundred hun-dred bewildering cuts for each and every part of the garment VARIOUS CUTS OF SKIRT From three and a half to five yards at the foot are the dimensions for skirts but a skirt measuring four yards and a half is usually used 2 5 CIRCULAR FLOUNCE SLLLVL 3 4z Vf S j r f t4 I MI 1 NEW STYLE SLEEVES They all fit smoothly around the hips They are usually lined with silk but many new ones of heavy material are mounted unlined over a silk petticoat pet-ticoat The skirts of walking dresses are proper length for the ceremoniousness of the occasion The plain cut skirts are still trimmed with bands of fur or folds of velvet and satin and small ruches and puf fings creep high above the knees and around the hips still but foot trimmings trim-mings are in high favor again Fanciful Fan-ciful cut out designs in blocks points and waves of velvet are used Perpendicular Per-pendicular trimmings are seen especially es-pecially in princesse dresses when the long seams are frequently covered with narrow lines of fur or passamen terie In tailor gowns the skirt seams as well as those of the bodice are frequently fre-quently lapped and stitched sometimes some-times they are covered half way up the skirt with a flat braid ending in an embroidered arrow head Many of the handsomest costumes have plain skirts elegantly cut and absolutely abso-lutely untrimmed with all the ornamentation orna-mentation confined to the waist NEW CUTS AND DRAPINGS There are a number of new cuts to vary the monotony of the sevengored skirt The yoke skirt is used in two materials ma-terials the fitted yoke being of velvet or satin and the flouncelike skirt of silk or wool goods The yoke is often cut in deep scallops over the flounce and is short or long as is fancied The Victoria or 1830 is a graceful grace-ful skirt especially liked for eveningwear evening-wear It falls in folds and is long and drooping at the back and does not require re-quire a hoop to support its fullness It is usually trimmed with many rows of small ruchings or puffings The Serpentine is a novelty in skirts which promises to have a little success The IBell and Umbrella with many modifications are constantly seen Draped skirts are the latest innovations innova-tions from Paris Overskirts are seen on the newest dresses The leaders of fashions have appeared in them but they differ from the oldtime overskirt I and its exaggerations in being modelled upon lines of classic drapery In fact they are not called overskirts but tunics and hang in graceful scant folds The tunic shown in the picture has the effect of a large square of cloth with one point draped in front and the other three at the back with no fullness full-ness on the hips The underskirt is frequently of a contrasting color or material A few skirts are being draped high at one side in a box pleat to display a I different skirt Some costumes very new are open In front to show a tablier or front I panel of handsome brocade velvet This is much used for evening costume cos-tume but is also seen in street dresses I The material of the tablier is always repeated in the revers and bodice trimming I trim-ming A handsome dinner dress of I grey satin opens over a tablier of brocade bro-cade eminence velvet and the bodice has sleeves and drapings of the velvet i i d n 5 T r + r i rf 1 r it v1 t y j r t if + h ift nt t t f t 1 i f I V ir 1 fi Z Lr 1 i l t L j I t II i I t J TRIMMING Ii DETACHABLE J exaoly even all around Damsels with ilL excapt i onallv retty feet occasionally k are seen v Ui skirts which raise the r instep but as a rule they barely clear the ground More dressy skirts have f now a slight dip in the back Full + evening dresses have the train of the I Occasionaly triple skirts are seen but they are not in favor For evening dress a new fancy is along a-long sharp point of satin or brocade falling from the waist in front over a ruffled silk or tulle skirt Two other points like long leaves are in the back Trimmings to simulate an over i skirt are often seen The fish wife or lavense skirt with an overskirt turned up is seen and recommended in shops but no one seems to wear it STYLES OF SLEEVES I The sleeves still make the dress at present They are larger than ever The velvet sleeve from Paris droops I on the shoulders but is very full halfway half-way to the elbow and the arm sleeve within is very tight from the wrist to I above the elbow The shoulder seam i is not cut much longer as was predicted pre-dicted but the sleeve is skillfully set I in so that it droops off the shoulder The pear shaped sleeve is a favorite cut in a perfect circle with a hole I through which the arm passes the outer edge drawn in to make the lower fullness The sleeve is almost plain on I the shoulder A close under sleeve is I always made as a foundation for all large sleeves to hold them in place j The circular flounce sleeve No 1 so much used for thin dresses during the summer is now made in velvet and satin with fewer flpunces In nearly all of the groups of fashionable fash-ionable sleeve illustrated here several materials are used No 1 is for a handsome walking dress and is made of crepe de chine with balloon puff of silk and drapery of velvet all of different dif-ferent colors No 2 combines velvet and cloth the two flounces are of cloth with embroidered em-broidered band and a middle puff is of velvet No 3 has a velvet puff on a tight cloth with bands of handsome galloon No 4 is the Louis XIII sleeve of a rf iri N I r t VICTORIA AND TUNIC velvet with straps of embroidery suitable suit-able for a very rich costume No 5 is charming with a crepe de chine puff over a silk sleeve and an epaulette of velvet over a fall of guipure lace A favorite cloth sleeve is cut away at the top and is slit down the outside out-side and finely stitched around and a large puff or cloth contrasting color I col-or set in Evening sleeves are quite fanciful I Balloon puffs are still used A new I design is a wide pleating set in the I arm hole and left hanging open at the top and filled in with a fall of lace in j which the arm is half concealed In others several puffs are set close I together reaching only to the elbow where they end in a deep fall of lace In i day dresses a tight sleeve continues contin-ues to the wrist in this design The revival of deep lace at the elbow is a pretty fashion All sorts of lapels and shoulder caps are seen Puffs of velvet are I much used but caps and epaulettes I are newer Leafshaped lapels often hanging almost to the elbow are the latest thing They are of velvet and I not infrequently three or four lapels are overlapped the top one of velvet the second of cloth of the dress I third of a light shade of satin and sometimes a fourth of flat guipure I have seen this combination in brown cloth dark green velvet light green satin and white lace Jet lapels are worn on the shoulders and fluted flounces of velvet or cloth stiffened and lined with satin are seen Under these a puffed sleeve is inevitable The Hungarian cap and other tight caps are worn fitting tight at he top of the sleeve which is voluminous beneath I be-neath Gauntlet cuffs appear occasionally occa-sionally on dresses and commonly on I coats > NEW BODICES I Bodices are loaded with trimming The lining is cut and fitted as us ali al-i but the outside is draped > on the figure A dressmaker remarked to me I learned dressmaking twentyfive I years ago but it is entirely different now We used to fit a lining and then I cut the outside like it and sew it up Now the lining is one thing and the outside another It is more trouble but more satisfactory As few seams as possible are used The back forms are often left out and the plain French back used The fastening fast-ening is invisible Tailor gowns use buttons but other bodices have them only for ornaments The umbrella coat is the novelty The skirt is cut to the knees and is decidedly full and the waist is double breasted Waist coats are often set in or simulated but the smartest cutis cut-is doublebreasted with lapel collar and is called a frock coat A linen col larette and tie are worn with this This coat is usually cut with a hip seam but may be made in one piece Ripples on the Hips are greatly worn and are of varying length and styles but are always cut in a perfect circle with the inside edge on the hips making the outside fall in waves They are occasionally cut into tabs and are long in front and short on the sides IF ROUND WAISTS ARE WORN When round waists are worn the wide directorie scarf of ribbon or silk is tied around the waist on the left with long ends that hang to the floor and are finished with a jet or other ornament Sets of very narrow frills hardly over an inch wide and cut on the circle I cir-cle are seen on the edge of round waists and make a pretty finish I have seen five or six scarf frills overlapping over-lapping and two colors or materials are used as black satin and green cloth sometimes these frills are each 1 J I y1 ic J ja nrnpit < 5l rLJ7 I r r i r L r I r + d I 3 fJ j m SERPENTINE AND YOKE SKIRTS edged with a tiny white lace Insertion or picot edge When these frills are used they alsa reappear on the tops of the sleeves Silk blouses are frequently finished in this fashion doing away with the use of a belt No darts are seen in many of the bodices the goods being fitted to the figure on the bias Round waists are now frequently sewn to the skirt for trimmers The Princess May is a new waist having a plain bodice of the material with a long scarflike piece crossing the shoulder and the bust to the left side where it is knotted and falls quite to the hem of the skirt This Is suitable for soft goods and silk For evening costumes the pointed bodice is worn and is either round in the back and pointed in front or has both back and front pointd to elongate elon-gate the waist in revival of the old style Revers of every cut and style are muchworn and are always large They are frequently full and soft and hang in a sort of cascade Else they are very sharp and pointed and are called the Robespierre Two revers overlapping are often used edged with white insertion or flat silk braid Round waists with large revers fastening fas-tening double breasted are considered very good style for wool dresses JACKETS AND BLOUSES Jacket and bolero effects are seen in many quaint and original cuts made as part of the waist and not to be put on or off The Hungarian Spanish Eton and many modifications of these styles are used The Hungarian jacket is one of the few garments made without revers and is elaborately trimmed with straps and silk frogs These jackets are usually us-ually of velvet but sometimes of passe menterie There are great numbers of jackets to be bought ready made in the shops but none look so well as the sewedin jacket made with the dress Blouses are still worn of different colors from the skirt for house street and theatre and the bottom of the blouse is worn outside the skirt instead in-stead of underneath Many women have silk blouses specially spec-ially made to wear under their handsome hand-some street coats as the present style of large sleeves and revers make the ordinary bodice under a coat very uncomfortable un-comfortable COLLARS Other bodice trimmings are the full collars of which there is a great variety va-riety They are fitted at the neck and flare out over the shoulders and are made of velvet or satin frequently trimmed with lace bands or fur Black satin collars in these new cuts are worn on colored wool dresses The oldfashioned flat pelerine and other flat cape collars are revived made in velvet They are very trying try-ing to most faces and shoulders A model is of a novelty wool dress with a wide flat collar setting out over the shoulders with two sharp revers all of velvet crossing below one rever continuing around the waist as a Di rectoire scarf to hang at the left side quite to the floor and edged all around with fur The Medicis collar is worn again this winter also a high sloping collar called call-ed the Funnel and the Medicis collar bent in deep flutes The collar of ordinary dresses is worn high as usual and the Crush collar of velvet fastening behind with a small revere or a simple heading is the favorite Petunia crimson or blue with belt to match are worn with the black dresses Ruches of velvet are worn also those of net or chiffon and lace or of the dress material lined with satin PRINCESSE GOWNS REDINGOTES AND POLONAISES Princesse dresses are again considered consid-ered distinctively elegant and are made in all material and are either the long perfectly fitted princesse quite untrimmed or they are trimmed at the hip line with basque or ripple to break the line Redingotes are decided to be the handsomest street garment They are long tightfitting and untrimmed save for the elaborate shoulder ornamentation ornamenta-tion A silk blouse is usually worn under them and the skirt is made to harmonize Black satin or moire ism is-m d with the redingote and skirt alike or a dark green or brown cloth coat trimmed with fur is worn over a watered silk gored skirt Polonaises with tight Directoire fronts richly embroidered are among the handsome new street garments They have large leg o mutton velvet sleeves and the bodice part is often elaborately braided or the polonaise is bordered with bands of fur and wqrn with a plain wool or heavy silk skirt Cape collars abound on all these street garments very often under the velvet cape collar is worn a heavy cape of white guipure A velvet boa shirred in sections and bordered with fur and a fall of lace is a pretty novelty nov-elty JEANNETTE HALE |