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Show 3w lH Ire ' BaMBd HO was It said some- r-3TgrTaT''s r IVY I that: "Th!s sa H vSrP I 'saal fin e liat """,11 a" Vv i-v t fj IfSSWI wa"a carry off lost -7- " j IJ season's gow n ?" ''l i( J "Well, whoever it KNk(T & Til, ind however true the remark flA T ''nuy have been at the time- of K f utterance and this scribe knows- V .iEOlelthcr the time, or the place, or --Nv Ithe perpetrator of eald remark It "" frimply has no application what- .wtvrr right now. 1 Distinctly different arc both the hats and the frowns cf the coming season. "With the marked change In 1 tb6 silhouette of tlio fashioned figure, that has estab- Hlhed Itself since the dog days came around and you , Srill note that tnc outline of the fashionable figure and the fashion plates both, and thoy are not by any means always the one and the same has changed I materially since the early summer, It should be ex-.ptcted ex-.ptcted simply as a matter of course that tho hats jtnd headgear should change likewise. At prcsont wiltfng there la positively no one shape, or type, that can be said to lead above and beyond ilnll the rest. There are large shapes and very laigo fshapes, and there are small shapes and but, and let H , vjs give due thanks, there are no very small shapes. 1 Those absurd excrescences of pill box persuasion thrtt g I slick on the top of the head like an English mllltla-jji mllltla-jji '. man's cap aie conspicuously among the missing In the jjj i new season s catalogue. 12 . Th: vogue of things Chinese Is becoming really rc- "iji f jj markable First of all, the new color card takes cog- m pnliance of lints and shadings that have been known I to the Chinese for centuries,, and which today .u e 3! I , racknowledged by us occidentals with a Chinese ad- v x f Jectle as descriptive. And these are pcihnps the tii most charming and jecherche of the new season's Sift offeringa 3 ik .1 The Chinese silks and brocades arc arriving by p I ever-v steamei lo lind that the commission houses at" ft ' bidding against each other, lo obtain Immediate posts pos-ts f N 0 session. In hats, go wnK. evening wraps, and especially in thoso fetching little tin ec -piece sets which eveiy stnart milliner lt making up In large varletj conniat-t conniat-t lug of chapeau. lour dc cou, and manchon; otherwise a hat, neckpiece, and muff Chinese weaves and color-" Ings lead the entire pidcesilon. - And Chini'se shapes, -too, are extremely pioniincnl. Tho pert little mnndanri cap yes. ""it Is a really and truly accuiato icurodiictlon In shane. though not in coloring, of the little cap that those fearfully and 1 wondci fully learned Chinese mandarins wear to an- nounce their rank and learning to all and sundry. ? And it is finished with "a little In own button on top," tpo, though Just as often as not that little brown but-i but-i ton Is cxpiosscd ns it thick and stiulght ostrich pom- J Pen, and again Just as ofton as not 'therci Is a relch- Ingly long silk tassel tucked In under the llitlo outton. j One must beware of this same tassel, though, for It 4 'J is worn at Its most possible best only bt the plump I ' faced young school girl. She of tho aristocratically i 1 slender featuiea must foiego thlx tasseled effect; and the woman who Is leaving her twenties behind her to say nothing of those other annIcrsarlos that come later would better forget that .this showy leslgn ever was invented The Chinese sailor, too. Is present In seVecal adap; ij tatlons. One point that will servo toldenllfy this gen- - crally becoming shape is that theic is fUUe a deep ' bandeau lucked In'al the back, which gives the t.ome- v. hat flat top a vastly becoming tilt dowjn over the J face And Hbbonu are muqh relied upon both for ; making and trimming those same Chinese sallora. "' - ' I Prett ncaily eve Jcrlod of hlaloii the world over 1 has been ransacked fpr Iduaw and, dosigln to perch rfj ' Upon the headb of fair femininity In tho months to I V come. Fiom JTenri Quutre of France known to tho t ifiehool books as IJcnfj'.'of Nav.irrc to the Pilgrim ff I Kuthers who landed. ,n our stein and iock bound $ I shores some three .centurleB later, and with several jl pTi lods and epochs in betwe6n; and taking second A I Vind from theie on down to the pieacnt day, " ob- fl i tersation with extensive view; .surveys nuinkind from A I China to Peru." and lakerf'for its own' whate'er It W Phinks It may require, ' .v. jl k The high steeple crowned.bat of tho Pllgi;ijii Fathers 5llalread n'feirod to);' the ' gruclouBfJund dashing tCrtvalier shapes that -vvere worn by their opponents: JIUie slushed and emhipldeied velvet chapenu that tho I Kallants of Franco wore with silken doublt'aud hose; ijjj 'hd the plain high ci owned and fttlff brimmed hat with 2 r he plain stiff buckle in front that thu Knickerbocker 1 fatroons brought with them fiom Holland all these HI loj.Ho and push each othr on the milliners' ahcl cs WkuT ' - 0 r-rtnstltjie Chinese shapeB, the Corean hel- It It to consult W $$ WMl "'v by readers blJ f wis lrSm l v wUh a . ietter . ST W M y4 confident on all "M Z-f assurance matters r " -J - & r at ey pertaining- ' xf's ' ' :L t7 W m V wiU not to bress IfY A -trjttr f 0ff) soon and - (kf " . -w- ?yx betome fashion. - ( " " " kI' passe., metj, Persian caps, Egyptian veils, Balkan colorings. Italian cockades, French ribbons, and the Ingenuity of the Amoriean designer. That fetching llttlo mode, known in. former seasons nn the Charlotte Corday chapeau, In back again, but In most Instances shorn of the extra little touches of filppery that adorned Its last appearance. Now It la just a plain little velvet cap with a Uuted frill around the face, but is vastly softening and becoming In ofTcct, , Those broad and ralher flat shapes with a brim that describes itself best as a cart wheel, and which may be worn "either straight or tilted at the most becoming becom-ing angle, are conspicuous. In satin, velvet, hatteia' pluah. silk beaver that with tho long and close lying nap. Just like a man's hlghjsllk hat and In combination combina-tion of these, one simply must have at least a single example of this most alluring style for wear with tho better gowns. The best of these have the brim decidedly Iriegular In shape, longer, either from back to frontthan fiom side to side, or wfth one aide decidedly broader than the other. Not but that the regularv-round brim Is presented, too; and for those of faultlessly regular reatures this regular brim is most effective But since tho most of us aro not no Dlcsaod, then tho Irregular brim topping tn0 phiuanlly irregular features will tlnd many adherents. Since wo an- talking about features. It Is tvoII to note tho pitsentatlon of tho chin strap. If beguiled into purchasing a "hat bearing this novel effect, bj Kuro to trv it " t'other way around " before discarding II. Not one woman in a hundred can stand to have . - t i'i'.ai.-'-rtggi-. .. tt- 1 rnr m 'NwJvWcwx xOLTir K. f. . y-. V-' ' fill ' 1 HI the angle of Jaw and chin so mercilessly-' I'llitll 1 vllnl defined as dos the chin strap achieve; K, "" nm but the wise have already learned, al- IJflj y V though the season-is still young, to tuck it l x , v- 'n at tf10 back of tho neck. Whcro It is I j HI , " but a single strap. It were well to add a Jjjlj stiff bow and attach it to the coiffure at Jj J the back with a stout hair pin, so that It then becomoa ' jji J H a really smart effect. Indeed ' i jJ ill The "Watteau and tho Fragonard and Marie Antoi- ' s'jjl nette hats are distinctly youthful in style and most- B . deliclously picturesque In both shape and coloring.- , y'nm All the dainty and delicate shades of both Batln and 1 ' 1 1 velvet are employed for these, and tiny bunches of 1 1 II Jl flowers, fruit, and even grains, such as wheat, ryo, , J Ijll and oatn. are used lavishly for trimming. Most of j, , jjt these tilmmings are in dull and tarnished gold and j j lilt lilvcr effects, while the llowerB and fruits are made of . J' ill satin or taffetas, usually, and then covered with a 1 JJI gold or sliver gau.se. j ; Now as to colors and colorings. Rich and dark I j, shades are considered the best choice. Some deep If1 ; purples, those shading on both the red and the blue jk tints but declaring little of cither, the raven'H wing Ifr b j and midnight blues, the deep wine tones of red, such l IJ it' :i - as Bordeaux, Burgundy, lis de vin. etc., African brown, l U 1 seal, bronze, and a warm, rich terra cotta will call tho jl 1 I roll of browns that present themselves, while there aro I f' but two or three tints in tho darker greens that will i' 'j If have much of a run. f Bl Alwas at this season there arc several shapes and ,6 J ""J yhades that are being tried out. They are frankly ex- s !j perlments. If tno public accepts them, well and good; f j I s and if not, no one is especially disappointed, save, III perhaps, tho ones who purchase those oxperlmont if , J Jl and find them decidedly pass6 oro they have ever had f ' I Rchance to becomo established. " - 11 J II As for tho trimmings on all these new shapes, thor ' Jl Is but little new to add. First and foremost, though; P.. j, Jl thero simply must be hand work, and moro hand work, r '( H and then still moro handwork. t I Beads, preferably tho tiny cut and irldeacont onea, Jji are in the highest vogue; and all aorta of designs ar f worked out with beads applied flat on the shape. In M fact, tho modish girl this autumn will look, when all 'J dressed up in best bib and tucker, as though, sho had ) IS been taking lessons from the Indiana, for beads ar to 'ill j play an Important part in the season's trjmmin :.( schomos. L) And after the beada como ombroiderlea. From i !' I blankot stitch to bind tho edges of. the chapeau, and , p done in colored worsteds, up to tho moat elaborately ,3 I fashioneM wreaths and flowora and apraya likewise Jj, accomplished In those crewel wools hand embroideries 'i rulo tho roosL '' I H Then tho slashings and picotings these, too. are, of j?M course, dono by hand. The French edge, as they term ,jg tho running in of a fine wire along the outor edge of iffl tho brim, whether the shape be large or small, calls l for expert hand work. And so it goos: anything and j jirj! H everything that will give employment to a largo forco , ; and ao koep workers busy la favored by fashion. fj It waa to bo expected that with tho war almost tha 1 j ,H aolo topic of thought and conversation in Europe head- j;' H gear should tako to Itself many of the military out- jp M lines and trimmlnga. But theso examploB, strange to v t H oay. havo emanated from our own American design- ( H jM era, rather than from tho foreign houaes. . M The military infiuonco, which. It was confidontly ex- ' ji WM pocted, would assort itself In well nigh every depart- J .M ment of drcas, has remained among the things ex- I f , 1 M pected, rather than appeared among thoae that have (J ! M been seen. 1 (j: ;h The American designers, who, ll must be confessed. ; VM seldom possess elthor tho education or the general , j!t IH training which their French compeers regard as funda- ; WM mental to their profeasion they It was who announced ! J fH th mode tnllliairo as the accepted stylo for this year ' h IH of grace. M That there aro some styles which directly or in- il iH directly owe their inception to the military influence 1' HH cannot be passed over; but to say that military styles J ( H and influences lead In the newtvf fashions that declar j -ft NH themselves from day to day. that were misleading. Fj iljjjH fP! '1 mm |