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Show H' ID VvlA Will JLAUcJ 1 1VVV U, jaW hMH r Awai I Hil' Loom That Spins Lacy Cobwebs at H J, Famous Zion City Mills, IH One of the silver spots in the H dark, overhanging cloud of the pres- Hu ' cnt war has been the sudden growth Hir of the lace industry' in this country. H And right in the middle states, 111 Zion City, to be exact you will- Mj! And yourself caught in the largest H of the lacy cobwebs which the H spiders of industry are endlessly H weaving for the adornment of the H 1 American woman. . illlrl por j jiother Earth should fancy a belt of lace for her summer frock she would find more than enough for two to circle her ample girth' from the yearly output of the Zion lace industries alone, probably one of the greatest factories for the manufacturing of lace In the world. PLANT WORTH $1,000,000. Made In America and designed to .,.- please and bold the fancy of the HjH American woman the French pat- H I terns from Calais are arriving too H jl late in these days of submarines to H I be novelties on this side of the At- Hiill lantlc the thread vanities which HJ i ornament milady's lingeries and pile Hl it up the costly items on nor dresB- H maker's bill aro being woven every H 1 day by hundreds of men and girls in the quiet and unpolluted nook ruled TAW I!! over Dy Overseer Wilbur Glenn Yo- Hl Hi liva Hh III Every year the Zion factories TAWI! urn out 64.000 mtlcs lQce, or Hl pj enough to go twice around the earth, llljl In twenty-three hundred different H patterns of German valenciennes or tlll round hole lace, French or diamond Hi'lij hole laces and mesh vals, Norman- Hjlll dies, shadow laces, flouncings, all- IIPI overs, dress nets, plain bobinets and Hli most lmportnt of all to the fastid- H 1 ious woman filet laces. HN It's a small city In Itself the Zion , U 9 lace household. They tell you out U H there that the plant is worth appiox- H imately $1,000,000, that the proper-- MI ty covers fourteen acres and the jl buildings tivo and a half acres. But In you are a T,'oman aQd lovo laces ll you will probably bo Interested more H 1 In the Journey of a delicate thread fli S from a clumsy bale until it Is wovon (Ifl in and out on the enormous Jaquard H P and Lever machines from thousands i , bobbins which seem finer than Hj H the finest piece of writing paper. ' H i SATISFYING H FLEETING EAPTCIES. 11 Never before has the American HilfLfe- oman had the rare laces which ev-1 ev-1 W" CTy vromai1 covets designed, only and H fj particularly to catch ber own fickle HJUI and fleeting fancy. That Ib what tho Hj zin lacemakcrs are attempting to H lljjl do. In jt big room out at the Zion W(i City PIant rws of designers are M if ?' busy aI1 day drawing new and H II ill 1 WkJMK '& 'IBiBBlfflM SlWMBPf tl0U r a second- An oxPert twist, SllSSffliBEk J&k 'ASBK9m&mSSf$& a turn' th0 cIick o lbe bobbin aF u mmBmBSSSKBt UHlBH'IIMiHlPSSv -A SliP5 lQt0 th0 c and another iKHP , !Vi mWmSKU$f9 ' A of e fa? circular p,cces of cop- rmmmltKmlk k j Kl; MBW!ilM ; Per Is id on one of the piles be- XvWwIICTIHilc "k QtKk HHfiBlf ' 8lde thQ Birt orker. Then tho pa- SmSBHSkL. " ' '"Bb BHBBBIIBE! peniko bobbins must be put on tho mYWKli i N WiLJiiSSr &lWj hydraulic press In tho number of XMWHiHPli 1 V ' WVH9aHHi 2iyf twelve hundred at a time and press- NSQhHBKBPJ' I , y BmmBBSSKf' BjJlB Gd togeUier witu twenty tons' pres- SBfflBy mB 'S SSnBffBJiw " jjfflH 3Uro' Later Uiey aro heated iQ sCBKLrrM p(fe BPMHHWET "-WBBBBJ J steaming ovens and put back into AJll Jffl&$$Mis& Y "" y tne Dresses so that tho proper Many Girls Terform Delicate Task of Mending Blemishes. cobwebby designs of our own American Amer-ican beauty rose, of the water Illy or other of our native flowers to be transferred on the great, stiff Jaquard card boards which guide the lace-making bobbins into the designs de-signs they are meant to weave. Tho Jaquard laco patterns are wonderful things. As you see them slipping up and down at the side of the great machine, they aro only long, slender bits of white cardboard card-board about two inches wide as full of holes as a Swfsa cheese 'and looped together at eacli,-end by a Blender thread. J" I Bm The puncliing of the holes in a lace pattern is one of the very flneBt of mechanical , devices. Designers draft tho patterns in varying sizes of Insertion and edging. Then the pattern is reduced to a series of infinitesimal in-finitesimal lines and squares which aro reduced to rows of numbers and the numbers translated iby a boy to tb hi I W, i v &r JJ J a typewriter machine which punches holes instead of letters. Each of tho Jaquard cards carries along the pattern pat-tern until tho design Ib completed aud then repeats until tho great piece of laco is finished. Tho thread a single strand which holds the great machinery of the laco factory together is transform- ed from the bale to thethin copper bobbin by a number of stages--from the bale to tho skein and then to swift, spool, beam, warp or bobbin before it is placed on tho machines which weave three to four thousand bobbins back and forth into insertions, inser-tions, edgings, headings and allov-era. allov-era. Winding, winding, winding, tho wheels of tho lace factory are never dull. Most of the machine work is a matter of routine, with tho exception ex-ception of'tho delicate threading of tho bobbin with tho carriage, which to the uninitiated is tho work of minutes, but for tho deft young fingers of tho experienced laceraak-cr laceraak-cr occupy only the lightning frac- T'l'ijwPWiwi'LjiaMii i Tf--i - ' width required to get from three to four thousand bobbins into tho machine ma-chine may bo Bccurod. The next step is up to the machine to weave Into the screen of delicate threads tho cobweb patterns which aro completed on the looms. EBKORS DEFTLY CORRECTED. .From the looms laces go to the mending room, where many girls are kept busy inspecting the delicate deli-cate meshes aud sewing the blemishes blem-ishes together with delicato thread. Somo use machines with a deftness which makes the mended pieces as free of blemishes almost as the perfect per-fect sample. - jhe. Zion faclorv s po of the very few places In tho world where tho , machine mend is a success probably prob-ably the only place in America. ; Tho lace output of the twenty-seven twenty-seven great Jaquard machines in . laco edgingB, headings and Insertions is turned, off the machine In enormous enorm-ous pieces, even those as slender as a picot edge being held together In ' rows by threads which are later j drawn out in a workroom full of girls who separato the lacy trimmings trim-mings for frills by drawing a single ' thread at a time. One of the advantages which the j American factory finds In suiting the taste of tho American woman of J fastidious tastes is that tho buyer of 1 i. , i . . ... r- muu is aiways ame to matcn up uer samples In all widths at any time v whatever. In France tho prudent j manufacturer puts but one design I in a certain width, or perhaps two or three,, on his loom and shuttle ' at a time. He yaits until his supply of that size has been exhausted and i then replenishes it with the other widths, so that the supply of the , first is oftentimes completely ex- ; hausted beforo the housewife who ' may want to match a favorite de- I sign in other widths can supply her- self with what she wants. Often 2 perhaps her original French design has been worn out before she Is cble ' to secure moro. . y A Positive Decllnatios. !f "What did she say?" vto ask of our young friend who has told us that he is about to propose to the maiacn of his affection. ; r "She said 'Yes,' " he replies, with ; an air of settled gloom. ' "Congratulate you, old man! That's magnificent." '. ) "But she won't marry me,'' ha ! i says, dolefully, ; , "Why. you sard she said 'Yos.' " "I -know, but I asked her If she ! :; would say 'No' if I should ask her ; to marry me, aud then she said Yes.'" Deaf to our hasty expressiona of ? sympathy, .be goes forth into the K cold, cold world, tbe picture of de- spair. - fj $ it. |
