| Show arm r C A LITTLE JOURNEY IN DARKEST AFRICA a H of 01 Modern u ruu M t n ru I 11 t Special Correspondence Carrell JUNO II I on the edge edle of the Dark I 1 Continent nt we are naturally consumed with to pene J I i Interior Of or orI the unknown J I i trute present dei lU ry J I course count our cur J I out not equipped for forB ramblings run are lire I but butI butto B rlou n th to modern modem railway An from o IJO Bo b traveler may mil I I I to tyro or three hundred ton toward aid the Iho I Africa Several In i t heart of or Darken i are ere easily u ac Arab villages I and ana by u omnibus an and bue or carriage c J re el el le be Iw made madej various short nay may J with perfect safety sa o 0 in ire the thc saddle addle I j far tar ns ue 0 the th native nalle are concerned j j I From the Place du U I fihs ehe I line fine large square In the tile Lower Lowr Ju run every Town Ton of ot halt half hour to lu Superior a be beau beautiful u the slopes of at the hUl hills suburb on south of the port ort and other Julies buses go 10 W dally daily to lo Kl El Blar and llou Zaren the pine nine woods wood of ot the Higher among Kl gl War the wella Is le the plateaU along Arab village v ilia fI typical which form forme It U highway dusty the street while louZa n It nf mills farther flirt her on Oil I Il III a all ae unlike It f few w thor well 1111 be he Imagined being nt as 1111 con nn EurOPean Hoth Doti hox however are lUll win winter winter winter of ot the tho numerous favorite ta II e Haul daul ter sitar to tu this thin now popular ha have havI ve many mall tea elegant French Frencl n and ami villa Illus net lIel amid charming rh of Bf h land nut and and and the tarn W most to Iw he found noar views lew the lost o I rd the residents of lit AIler have hae their homed homell rl I in the Kl FI I Blur 1 ter suburb the I con consul and nd several titled tom am I n L of et lies Hire There Them are also a 1 number con convents vents other charitable The lion ton Pasteur Rood good Hoot It In ht I 1 u n very large asylum n for tor or chil children dren then an na 81 well wall 01 nM ae n a refuge refugo and tory tor for 01 abandoned women not a II combination It would seem to tire tho cae teal ual observer Another orphanage tot for o girls Is la In of the lh Hood good Intern I o oSt ot of St Nt Vincent tie de d Paul rind and III HI still another for fOl boys hOYH belongs to 10 tho the same lame elMer Ml ter hood between these two twi ASYLUMS the tho th great grill head en os ent t of ot the do In It Doctrine who art ary ar schools for tot boya boye all oer over the prow provo proVInce Ince Inee A few farther on are ure tin thu s of Aln Ahl which supply the Die Town Ton of ot Ih with water Here Is le another Urge large lue I Imd In the tho muno neigh Is II the th Petit once oll e n n Jesuit now no to r a younger clara chive of or boys boya bO then than ra to In the Kl 11 11 Blur asylums So Be you ou see I that lint whatever else ollie tiny may lu he H lacking Inciting In III northern tn Africa It Ils la not nol the cardinal of Christian char charily charit ily it II Going Coking to 10 It In le hotter better to tu take lake a carriage than limn the public vehicle the hire of or the former being very ery cheep cheap seven e francs tot for the trip trill direct II or 01 about bollt I fifty cents an hour hout hourIn In hi American money mone If It stops elope aro made madeen en In route toute And A 1111 you will certainly feel fesl Inclined to make mOH many halts and de do detour tour huge First uNiting nearing the sub mib orb U is I the splendid palace of o the deys deyL now the summer hone homo of the French and worth At lent least len t a n passing glimpse e At a II high higher er IH point lit you turn purl from the rood road to inspect In the enormous a reservoir which Hussein built In 1622 to tn supply the thi four tour of Algiers with purest vator Farther arther on are arc two great I 1111 t hJ ouch each with num nurn HOUM croue white whitt buildings grouped together like n II village a and set setIn SC In ht the midst of or gardens Appropriately I enough oral leme teries are me clustered near Algiers gon gun gune In th French l e ml r nl burial ground is II style Incomparably ugly with wreaths of ot black nod while buds l nd strung trun on wires wares into luto of f leaves leaven rind One Olle corner orner of u uIt It Is III for 01 the consular corps nod and their families lell corresponding to the indent consular cemetery under the Turkish government ami no Interment ran an nil be bl made In It II without the consent of if th the dean delill of ot the tho corps who Iho happens at nt present to be bl tin tho I ng Ish Ilah consul general Next Is the nett lieI ew Jewish Jew lab cemetery their an dent Ment burial place having been heen recently appropriated by tho the gov eminent for ur public purposes At Athe t the he very CI top lop of ot the hill Is le the pretty cemetery of tho the commune of ot Mustafa which Is III not nearly so 80 foreign In up ap as nH Its Ile name Indicates but al nl most n a of ot an nn English Country About thirty years real ars a ego ago n o the larger portion petition of at It was ns set fit sIde nettle for or the tho use ulle of In n Algiers The Tho bishop of Gibraltar carne ami over to consecrate It the tho English and ind American residents planted blunted It with shrubs and flowers and hao ever since carefully tended It at their own ox ex exMore pens p nse More Interesting than either cither to in lovers lov rs or of C the curious are aro the lire two Ian dan cemeteries with their queer flUDer mura rn urA hauls or tombs of ot the saints and their n ached glistening glistering In tiro t 1 Hun In 11 one of ot thorn Is la the of o Sidi Mohammed ben hen Abd er bou the saints with two tombs lombs Ho Ito It woe was 19 who founded the tho strange religious fraternity to which vast numbers of hables and Arn Arabs bs ire are After laving having made mude a I voyage ravage to Egypt 1 he hI cane came to Algiers Ahlers with Balm Baba Mohammed Pacha and lived here lIem iere many years While on a n visit to tolis Ills lis native place In In tho the country of o the till Ben Henl Ismail lie hI died and was burled there th tL n a splendid ppl tomb being beng erected over oer his remains romaine Hut But the tho Al AI wanted his hili body bod for tor the nt ces d onIt It was to be bo capable hlo n c ot of performing HO co they secretly carried I II ii off ocr to the tho Mustafa cemetery leaving th tit tho corps of an ordinary man roan In III Its place Noce The rhe discovery or rather suspicion o othu of of the thu net ull caused such excitement tha Will tsar was w as s averted only by making th till believe bellevo that the saints body bod had hall been miraculously doubled an ant rested in lit both mth places Every Hor alas afternoon Moorish h women lInell troop b by thousands to their cemeteries Why o or that day and never on all 1 I d tt do donot not learn know They io go to tire the of ot the to pray for tor the thu of fertility t but ne each drags rive o of nt six olive behind her It I Is b to understand the eagerness o of al vows 0 WI Seen Selin front from a n distance th the thelong long procession of ot figures wrapped li In white while from runt mend head to 10 foot toot looks lonks like i n n train of ot sheeted spectres now new tillen from rom the HIP grave as liS they the como come near or cr you ou hear light right laughter and lIld chat elicit that Is decidedly of ot the he earth and bright oyes very ery mud much alive with Mother Iother Kves curiosity pee IH r from under woolen wool ell balks at lit the tho strung or Speaking of ot Arab ceremonials yoi ropy may see xee ee some Homo of ot them today tudo un an unchanged changed oln l 1 All l time even enn It in In Algiers within sight of Protestant am nil 1 Catholic churches The fie most moat rites lire are performed by votaries of at the Situ I Mohammedan f l bin bbl ct nit flit and one Oni of their fetes Itel tee Is worth seeing peeing once If ono one line has strong nerves neros I It begins with tho tiro wild wI II butting beating ol ot I drums anti and tambours until a n crowd Is collected Then out ou t of ot same Bomo dark In rl door doorway way Wl an supposed to be Ill Inspired rushes with a n yell Into Inlo n a ring formed Ity by 11 spectators where when ho he a n frantic fran rum tie tic dance swaying his body bOIl backwards and forwards and contorting himself with fearful violence Hu lIu Is II presently Joined by others all nil yelling gesticulating ing hag nail and contorting until thoy tho fall ex ux exhausted hausted to tho the ground The he hens heal of ot the order collects enough Lough coin Coln from ruin the tho crowd crowll to purchase n II re ro reviving beverage which ho hu adminis administers to the tho prostrate devotees e nail and soon noon MOO II they resume their cheerful arcla searing their bodies bell t e s with Iv t tl n red td hot Irons Irone forcing out their own on eyes eyen with spikes outing eating lIe scorpions mind and serpents chewing broken glass doing any nn devilish d I deed tI ed their thelt t he fanatical mania may coy suggest It U Is supposed unit that their religious exultation renders them Insensible to pain but what the after effect of n glass and scorpion diet Ilet may cony be bl I 1 cannot say sa Other rites mire are celebrated the sea sell shore every avet Wednesday morn mornIng mornIng mornIng Ing which twitch anybody tiny nay who gets up early curly enough Tine The ere arc not of the ancient anti and honorable but low natives who de desire desire sire alre to get rid rill of their various diseases To 10 this end they the slaughter a fowl or ur lamb and arti burning of Incense e they smear them with Its blood blonds If H the dying creature struggles In hi the water It II Is If I looked upon as cis a 11 good omen and thu the Is II almost complete This pas hns nothing to do with true Mohammedan worship but hul persons of different races Moors Arabs and Jews Jew Included shire share th the superstition It Is la n a very ety ancient ceremony and as early arly as ns 1603 It was minutely described In n hook honk by hy Peru Iere PHI Dan Dnn the lie French rench 1 The rhe negroes In Algiers also their po cullar culiar fetes and amid sacrifices some Borne of which ate are ns as disgusting as all they are arc et curious tors rl Chief ChIet among n them tham Is the feast cast of oa In lu honor of o tho tiro which on OJ the I t e birthday occurs day Ia of the lire month mouth llou Zaren lIr n Is situated on ona onn ona a n mountain of ot the same name note mON than a II thousand feet above aboe the sea There ate two the European Iu ra n a and amt the thO native nearly a n mile o port Midway between rises a I vast building for many years a II Turkish asylum lum but hilt now occupied by the tho French l olo Normal y the thu th native village Is mostly I devoted to shrines of the saints each set In an enclosure of o dwarf palms palmA and prickly per From this point which the lire traveler Ir should make his hiM base o of operations for fot at least n a week several excursions of ot great grent Interest may muy bo be O ml mule r de One Una of at them I I n lead ald 1 hip nu nII 1 b el to the thO celebrated French observatory which Is u II credito credit to o its tM builders benders and said sold to bo be more inure favorably situated than limn any all nil oth r In III the m world with hut hurl two Visitors are aro ni cordially I mod by h the time director Nun Near It Is III another norther a at ot Alders worthy des les In III which several g hundred old nl I l men mn e 1 women t sn man find 1 an nn a n I tt 1 n The Ihl III Is kept by II the Sneers loeur des Ills Little Litho Sisters o ohe of the he Poor and Is III entirely supported by b voluntary contributions Another excursion lon which may mn be b made n on an foot oot c ut If I ono elms Is u IL good aler lends ends to tho 1110 village lIae of Time The Welt Well of ot the time Slave from a 11 picturesque Moorish fountan In la the market place placeless less than three miles malice from rom ilou Zarea In the fort tott above tH the tI hamlet Is III a n military penal u nent ment Near It Il Is III an nu orphanage for tol girls girtH rind nn all nil around ore ate relics idles of or an nn older ohler civilization mono monuments ments still entire and laige large tubular tone routing r on of 01 four tour upright stones Ot Of f course they ore the tombs of some somo forgotten people anti and the lire pottery not nm bronze ronze ornaments which hove have hl been taken out of them now adorn room 1 of M the time de d In Al AI Algiers Algiers giers It H Is fifteen miles mlles from rota to toa La a frappe Trappe de lIe and necessitates n nn nl early start with v t Ith luncheon C carried along as there Is neither bite nor sup to toie tobe be ie hind had ha until the tho return About sixty years ears ago aRO the monks manIt obtained from the French govern government government ment to t o build n a monastery rl re amid d were vere w e granted grant r cd hundred t acres of ot the tho surrounding lurid land which was 1111 then hen almost a n but tins has been belli transformed by b their theft untiring Industry Into nto a wonderfully luxurious vineyard and orchid orchard Their system of ot Is s worth studying and they have two mills for grinding corn the water which 1111 driven 11 them thlIn hem being brought from an nn r 1 aqueduct thirty feat high The monastery mon Ion monastery astery on tiro lh spot where whelo the battle of ot Was fought be lie liet beta t ta l 11 t the Turks s and the French In the tho summer of o 1810 is a II groat rectangular building There Is IB a I chapel at ono one end ond ondI I the tho walls of the whole structure r covered cocrell with lugubrious inscriptions recalling the miseries of ot life such luch as 1111 Sll cst cat Mote do vivre Ine n a la in Trappe 1111 eat cst doux dy There Is a 11 furor farm with extensive stables not ami sheds for the tho flocks and herds workshops forgo torI bakehouse wheelwright and std cur CIr carpenters potters penters shops dairy pertaining to a II thrifty crud and community One On hun hundred dred and twenty monks nooks t ern 1110 now clots clola lend In iii La 11 Trappe de do Even on more Interesting ll ifs tin or experimental garden arllen near It Ii was begun In 12 1 32 2 timid 1111 while It remained In iii the tho lands hands of or ortho tho the government was as kept up with care hit hilt n W I considerable expense Now It l Is Iti conducted ted by the Generale 1 II who consider thin tho commer commercial 1 clot cial clement more amore than the advance advancement ment meat of science plants are nrc cultivated In greet great numbers nu t nbc ex exported ported to the principal cities of ot Eu Europe Europe rope The ho avenues of ot palms bamboos magnolias and acacias make most delightful promenades Tho rho gardens are upon open at tit nil all tunes times to 10 the tho public There Is a u onto cafe at the tho entrance where Turkish coffee cortee tiny may bo ho lm had hlll nl and andIn In the centre under n a beautiful group 1 of ot Canary lIllICH Is la n II fine old Moorish house worth going far tar to soe see FANNIE H n |
