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Show Landscape Hints from Karla Hancock Prom the Ground Up... By Karla Ru(;h Hancock 1 hope it is safe to assume that Spring has come to the Canyonlands country. One of the early indications is the feathering out of the Globe, or Umbrella willows (called "Grand Junction willows" by many of the local residents because it appears in great numbers on the Western slope). My reaction to the first Globe willow I saw was an assumption that it had been the object of a most thorough pruning job; a second tree, of course, made me realize its perfect symmetry was simply a part of its growth habit. A search through numerous tree and garden books turned up a single reference to this unique plant. Sunset's detailed de-tailed Western Garden Book lists it as Salix matsudana ' Umbraculifera. ' A similar species, the Navajo willow, is found down on the reservation and reaches twice the size of our local tree. Roots Easily Like all willows, the Globe willow starts easily from cuttings. As soon as the roots, which form rapidly in water, have made a respectable showing, the switches can be transplanted to cans of dirt, or put directly into the ground. The latter choice necessitates closer supervision and protection. An unusual feature of the Globe willow is that, unlike rqost young trees, it achieves in the first year or two of its growth the full symmetrical form, on a smaller scale, that it will have in maturity. Unfortunately, Unfor-tunately, its extensive canopy often causes the Globe willow to split as it ages, making it a somewhat unsatisfactory choice for landscaping. Early Gardens Most of us have the early hardy vegetables in the ground, or intend to plant them at the first opportunity. The gardeners who made out seed orders from the various reputable mail order catalogs back in January have had a couple of months to fondle these bright packages of hope. I prefer to buy seeds in the local stores for two reasons ( in addition to keeping the dollar working at home!): first, these seeds are usually raised by Intermountain growers specifically specifi-cally for our conditions, and second, the purchase of said seeds during the course of several grocery-shopping outings out-ings is one of Spring's pleasantest rituals. Keep Seedbed Moist With good seed-even in poor soil-there is only one major reason for faulty germination germi-nation or spotty stands: lack of moisture. Good soil is more crucial later on, but seed will even germinate in an old damp rag if moisture conditions are satisfactory! I have had good results when I sprinkle seedbeds daily, and oftener on windy days. It is my feeling that this is the most important step toward getting the garden under way. Deep watering isn't necessary-keep in mind the depth the seeds were planted; frequency is important. import-ant. Ditch water gardeners generally gen-erally find that relying solely on that water sour.ee results in scanty germination of small seeds such as carrots, lettuce, beets, spinach, etc. Surface water at the beginning, until seedlings are established, seems to' make a great difference. Sometimes it is more practical to have a "salad garden" separate, which will be watered with the hose, and relegate the large-seeded large-seeded crops to the ditch-watered ditch-watered area. More From a Small Spot For the gardener with a twenty-acre enthusiasm and a 75 x 90' lot, which I have, it takes planning to use space wisely and efficiently. "Succession "Suc-cession pIanting"-following an early vegetable which matures quickly with a warm weather variety, is a good way to reap larger harvest from small areas. Tomatoes can be planted between rows of ripening peas; greens can be followed by late corn. Although many gardeners prefer pole beans as a crop designed for a small area, I usually plant the tender, more prolific bush beans. These bear sooner than the climbers, produce over several weeks, and can be followed by additional plantings right up until the first frost. |