Show au n i RAILWAY JAUNT IN PORTUGAL Ou II IlA T T or OF TilE PAIl DO 01 ON C COUNTRY It IY OF TilE TIIE VIE i fi i Bacchus on on tho Douro the tho Famous i Port Wino f it Facts ng Ono no of tho Gr industries In tho World L nn I V Special C e Oporto Portugal Nov OV 5 that this old lId city Is the home ot of Ut the famous port O 0 porto Orto wine but to few have any Conception ot of tho ot of the Industry Though the vine Uon hM has fallen ott In the tho thelast last decade owing to the vine Ino which h ha has i the tho production It averages over Oer Q a year One linn Arm slant the whose warehouses line the tho river rIer elde ot of Nova da Gala the suburb oppe alte a stock valued at two dollars dollar while lea III annual sale reach the tho million dollar mark An eyeD even great greater r s le 18 conducted conduct by br bythe the tho Ferreira Dro Bros the largest Port In In the tho world orld In their A and Campania dos 1109 Vlahos do Porto An l I man named Anderson deals dool only In the I choicest ot of the early carly port part ot of the here a year ot of L amber and dark fruity poorest ot of which whole roles solea at ten dollars the gallon There Therean aro an scores of at oth other r wine tse German French and whose endless vaults and tunnelled Cellars line the bank ot of the Douro r mlles millS We have event a busy week the to novel noel In Including n Jaunt to the very cry center or of the do Vinho Inho or count country ot of the ViM on the Upper Dour Douro near the frontier Hero Senhor Antonio lIer Ber Bernardo nardo Ferreira a 11 multi ot of Oporto owns a dozen wine Ine farms or ne as the they are called In the and sp a ot of each year ear with his on one ot of then the Being ao 10 fortunate It ns I to n a Invitation from Mr Ir IranI anI and Mrs to lilt them In their country home W we drove to the railway early oGe ofte morning making 1 a wide detour around the La LaSe LaSe Se quarter the plague heart ot of the city where THOSE TWIN HEAVEnS and It starvation atlon rigorously ItI teed In by II a cordon of Po Ice are gar uncounted It la about tour lour hours ride rille from Oporto to lit 61 miles mile from The rhe road Is tho most mOlt oue line In the tho running through and along lont deep gorges ot of tho Douro put quaint and peas peasant ant Mt pines and an palm trees and some slime of the richest In Inthe Inthe the world here on steep and stony but I mountain slopes with tit their yellow brown schist soil soli the Bastardo grape to perfection tho very best beat wine that ever deJl delighted mortal lips lip Is made the rhe country c of the called the do Oar den ot of affords n a graceful prototype ot of life lICe In the land lond ot of vine vineyards yards ud Their elegant villa tn in the Re nO Reman man style commands It a wide view ot of th the mountains and valle valley olive olle groves roe and pasture lands dotted with sleek cattle and ot of the Douro dwindled to a narrow stream co 10 near Its headwaters From his fiat lt house housetop housetop top the hap happy planter may watCh the progress of his wines to market In the quaint native ur or flat bottomed barges Oh with an enor enormous enormous rudder piloted with greatest and care caro put past Innumerable reefs ts shallows and down to the Oporto to storehouses Senhor Ferreira aud his charming wife and daughters were ore t In their gracious courtesies showing us every crery detail of It making to Its final curing In vast cellars tunnelled Into the solid rock Tt To further exemplify rural life In Portugal they gave a ball In our bOn honor or In the great eat presa pre houlle tie wooden pillars hidden 1 by living JIving VInet covered with bunches bunche ot of grapes out cut from the vineyard for tor the ho occasion The pC sant In their COSTUMES IFS In all the colors ot of Josephs mon men with short velvet trousers and aud jackets white while blouses fringed sashes and gOlden hoops In their ears the tho women wonderfully bedizened with ribbons and bits ot of tinsel necklaces necklace bracelets crowns crown brooches the work ot of the world tamed ot of Oporto the tho trance strange d dancing halt half fandangos s and the tho music ot of the local orchestra guitar and mandolin mingled with Mth the sharp click of the rasping ot of gourd fiddles and the rattle ot of table forks shaken In glare are things to 0 be long rem remembered And then thon the thO white and ambor hued torts distilled more than halt a con fury tury alto ago not to bo be rashly Imbibed but every drop moro more precious than gold to sight and smell In the manufacture ot of port there are no secrete and no reserve In the whole process of all the tho world being welcome to every smallest detail which seem to that there Is no crookedness to be copy con It 11 line hall been fale falsely that Oporto wine ts is tM most adulterated Pot pf ferment fermented beverages but one tho truth is III that he who drinks 1 a glass of It drinks II as nearly natural natura and pure a form torm ot of grape grapo juice as It Its fA s possible to produce It If ever eer adulterated at nil all It has been mere merely to satisfy public taste at greater expense and nd trouble to the makers than unmixed grape Juice F example In England hero thero wines find by tar far their greatest market the popular fancy some years ago ran mn to almost black very strong and fruity port purl then to satisfy the tho demand damond the t e milk mak firs employed d elderberries to darken clarken It When the light wine peo people le h hard rd ot of It they pretended to be SHOCKED ED possibly to cover coer some Bome crookedness ot of their own and raised railed no end ot of hue cry about adulteration t ting that one fruit is II really as whole wholesome wholesome some as the other As for tor logwood adulteration that table fable has always been libellous Any chemist will tell you OU that the peculiar reaction ot of wood makes It absolutely absolute inoperative nR as a dye In an any sort ot of wine Indeed d so long as the publIc has the good to bl be with the tho true net red color ot of pure port which h turns with age to rich amber no mor mer merchant chant chont will be so 80 extravagant os as to put elderberries In Ita much scarcer and there therefore tore dearer fruit than grapes In Portugal It exacting customers desire de desire sire their wine to resemble Ink there Is much cheaper dye than thon every logwood and Ind one always nt at hand hond In the tho Barber tlell ot of native nathe gropes GrapeR In their natural colors So the tho point II s I clear that as 1111 there Is nothing so cheap a and convenient with which to ate ato port purt wine ns as Itself It is III bound to tobe be puro uro as the Yankee cider for tor which the thO farmer carries his own apples to the and watches the tho process of at their crushing crashing worms and all The Tho true port wine Is made only In ono one corner comer ot of Portugal In a district marked out by nature to bo be boone one hugo vineyard It is III cut ot off front the sea by ono one lofty lotty rant range ot of moun mountains and aud sheltered by others from the tho east winds Even Enn the tho valley ot of vine vineyards Ine yards Is hilly billy anI and precipitous the tho vines Inell growing on barren looking soli a peculiar Drown Brown crumbling slaty built up luto multitudinous ter terraces races rocO from tot t D to bottom ot tho lithe hills The entire strip of country about CO 60 miles JI above the mouth ot of the Douro lit is on only 27 21 miles long b by 6 or 01 6 miles Wide In winter It la Js almost u ae coM cold as the climate ot of Maine but In hr summer the tho sun lIun fairly revels In hr TIIE VALE and Is ren reflected ted from the bill hili amphitheaters theaters With particular Intensity Cut oft orr from every breeze the whole region lies still and becalmed In heat hent though In about the tho PlUM raine latitude IS as Boston or Chicago Nowhere else 1110 In l Europe can the tho get such a roast log Int and nowhere tire else are aro the juices 8 ot of the grape elaborated Into such luch a rich richand and potent liquor One understands port at the first glance ot of the vine Ine country lL It would bf be easy to find hot hotter hotter ter Cuba for tor Instance but the vi vine no that produces the wine PU par u ex excellence Is not Il a tropical plant and nerds needs the severe cold ot of winter to give U It a 11 t jet t The Tho wino wine district III ii one ot of the tow few In Portugal where ro Ice forms In winter thick h to bear the weight ot of n a man The vines lire are grown oS as like r English trees than anything else elle Early In the they are elo closely ly pruned and the summer shoots are sup petted by stakes Elsewhere In the pensula pen sula ex except ept where a s good goodwine wino wine Is wanted the vine la IA trained over trellises or against pollarded trees In that lIat way oy moro more grapes may be but lire wine Is poor The vinta o begins toward the tad end of September Much fuch care Md and are required In se the right proportions ot of the many varieties ot of grapes grown on a single lingle for tor color somo for tor flavor some Fame for bouquet and some for strength The ripe grapes are thrown Into a vat and trodden under bare unwished let us hope and the weary went process remains one ot of th the Biblical phrase lie hath bath trodden the press alone The skins stones Juice and stalks are then III al allowed lowed to tn remain until the tho liquid ter fer fermonte monte ments Soon as the heat for tor lion begins to abate the wine Is run Into large laree casks tonel I believe Is the tt technical name whereby the active Is checked but Is not wholly holl arrested until the tho cold colU weather ot of winter sets seta In Then the tho wine clears loara the casks are fillet to the tops bUngs are driven In tight and the bevy bev beverage Is fit At for consumption This Is how red wine has boon mado since the tr Aret t Juice ot of grapes out and fermented how It Is still made In France Italy Greece Spain Portugal and nd Hungary the tho IngenUity ot of man mun having added very II Ue to the tho time honored process Oz OF DAYTo DAY DAYTo To be sure Bure there are some variations and improvements such as scientific Instruments called IIa for determining precisely tho ha right moment for tor oft the must and In a 11 afew few cases frauds are practiced l such as adding burned Sugar to the tho I Poorest and ald thin thinnest neat sour wine to tc Imitate the Oil flab or of ct Madlem and doctoring It with nn an alkali to take array awny over acidity The rhe Sherrie sack ot of time which then all 1111 England drank was soo sour that It had hod to be sugared ns as we sweeten ten You ou remember that addressee as Sir John Sack and Sugar and gentleman plaintively replies It sack and sugar be n a fault God help the tho wicked There is 15 a wino disease called calle which In early carl sum summer nor mer as am n a white Pliny milly mold or fungus on the len leaves lAter Ater It shows In the unripe fruit and It if allowed to run It Ira I course hinders the growth ot of the tho grape and causes It to split op open n and rot As tho most animals succumb soonest to an epidemic so 80 the finest growths ot of wino gropeR suffer first So bird has this been two or three times time within the century that estates pro producing rp nil an average ot of leG ItO pipes 1 a year came down to five fio pipes ot of a quality so poor that hat even the laborers could not drink It and the tho wine which the they will not guzzle must bo be very ery poor indeed Finally the French found n a remedy In powdered sUlphur blown on the tho leases from bellows The Tho natural wines ot of J made to be cons consumed on the spot which lire are In proportion ot of a 0 thousand to one ot of the tho wines produced lire are ht tended to be drunk the thc summer ummer they are att made malle and will very cr rarely keep two It Is h 1 curious tact that tae 1110 common claret Ines grown In the neighborhood ot of Oporto and drunk by tl toe peasantry are aro otten dearer than the costliest vintages s ot of the tho district The apparent anomaly Is no ae counted for by the tho tact that while the commoner wino is III drinkable within six lix months after aUer leaving the vat at the tho youn oun port wine ns as the trade puts It hs has then gone but one stage stase ot of Its long journey It has n to bo be kept long longer or er to be racked to be fined to be tully furry turned over to be carefully watched perhaps to be fortified with distilled wine Before Defore nil all tile this It has hasto hasto to be carried on n perilous voyage down the Douro to pay warehouse charges charge In Oporto and again In En Eng England land lond or wherever it It goes goos to pay II a tax on export and ond n a h heavy 3 Import duty duly boo bey sides merchants profits freight and Insurance charges Therefore port wino must need start very N cheap Indeed or none nono but millionaires could ev ever r taste It An Any In Portugal will Bell lIell you OU II a quart ot of honest red wine lor toltie value ot of about three cents In our currency But Dut ut at thud early ago It would hardly recommend Itself to the cultivated taste The port wino WIM trade le Is a good deal ot of a monopoly ely oly but 1 a legitimate one resulting from capital and skill and knowledge applied FANNIE |